On July 03 2018 10:19 Whatson wrote: How up-to-date is the current list in the first post? I just started my office job and I want to bring in a mechanical keyboard. I have a Das Model S with MX Blues that I used to play a lot of video games with, but I feel like the MX Blue switches make it too loud. Is there a "quiet" mechanical keyboard out there that anybody could recommend me? Preferably with a 10key
It's ancient
MX Blue has an audible click as part of the switch so it's louder.
Brown has a physical pressure change as you press down on the switch, so it's got a bit of the blue feel but doesn't make much of an audible click; they've been labeled as "silent" or "office" switches before.
Red/Black are linear (different feel, smooth+light) and don't make a sound from the key actuation.
The sound that you hear from keyboards of those switch types (red, black, brown etc) is almost all due to the keys physically bottoming out which can be reduced by o-rings.
check out some videos of those switch types with o-ring mods on youtube
ok im looking for a new keyboard again and i was thinking of logitech g413/513. no macro keys and i dont need media keys + good size board and build seems perfect.
the only question i have is that ive never tried their romer g switches before. anyone got any thoughts? also im not up to date with the market now so if anyone can tell me if there is a magical switch that feels like cherry blues but doesnt have the sound id be thankful. i love the feel of blues but the sound always forced me to go to browns which i think doesnt do enough justice whe giving tactile feedback
i've a Coolermaster Quickfire Rapid TKL, MX reds, bought it many years back and its still functioning great. looking to get a new one this christmas sales and there are many choices available now and im totally out of the keyboard market, my question is are the Cooler Master Masterkeys as good as my current board? the entire series is on promotion and big discounts now and im wondering if i should get it over something like a filco or ducky which is relatively more expensive.
I have my old CM Storm QuickFire Pro with MX Brown at work - over 6 years old, works flawlessly still. For home I got CoolerMaster Masterkeys L RGB or something like that from Massdrop about year ago - feel is the same, MX Browns, the construction is damn solid as expected and RGB options are cherry on top. I can recommend it as an upgrade, but can't say it would be better than filco or other brand.
Hey guys, I guess this question was asked before, but i didnt find an answer quickly, so if im being an obnoxious person by asking this, just tell me to keep searching the thread.. :>
I wanna learn how to type in Steno, so I stumbled upon Plover. I do not own a mechanical keyboard and since Christmas is coming up, I want to get one. Two questions arise:
1) Should I go for a NKRO-keyboard or is 6KRO enough to get started with Plover? 2) Depending on the answer of 1), do you guys have a keyboard recommendation that is both fit for usage with Steno (so it has a lightweight mechanism) and normal usage like gaming? I guess I'd be willing to spend around 100-200€ on a keyboard depending on how much more bang I get for my buck compared to similarly priced products.
Thanks in advance!
Edit: If that wasnt clear before: I want to use it with Key toppers, so I guess an ortholinear keyboard layout would be beneficial. Im not sure if there's key toppers that correct key alignment or if key alignment has an implication on price, but if the keys are non-ortholinearly aligned they should at least work with different key caps or something like that.. :>
Hello Guys, got a question that I couldn't reasonably answer through average google search, so I thought about you, as always when in dire needs :p
What are actually the most silent switches/mech keyboards available ?
Thanks to Coronavirus, I got used to using my own keyboards (home) for working. Now that I got back to work, I'm not really keen on reverting back to old work keyboard, but my G-Lab keyz Carbon² is a little too noisy for my office-mate. Been OK the last months 'cause of social distancing/holidays and all, but now we'll be reverting back to normal, so I'm trying to find a good quiet replacement.
On August 11 2020 01:43 SkrollK wrote: Hello Guys, got a question that I couldn't reasonably answer through average google search, so I thought about you, as always when in dire needs :p
What are actually the most silent switches/mech keyboards available ?
Thanks to Coronavirus, I got used to using my own keyboards (home) for working. Now that I got back to work, I'm not really keen on reverting back to old work keyboard, but my G-Lab keyz Carbon² is a little too noisy for my office-mate. Been OK the last months 'cause of social distancing/holidays and all, but now we'll be reverting back to normal, so I'm trying to find a good quiet replacement.
Any ideas ?
Blue switches are going to be noisy as they click when actuated. Typically the reference for quiet switches is cherry browns. I believe most linear switches are quiet as well, but because they don't provide feedback, the noise is typically going to be from bottoming out.
Do you know if most of the noise is from bottoming out or is it from the key actuation itself? I have browns in a semi-open office, but the vast majority of the noise is from bottoming out.
If you want quiet mechanical, at minimum you'll need something with browns, and potentially o-rings as well depending on how heavy handed of a typist you are (depends on how tolerant of noise your mates are as well).
I’ve had my beloved Filco Majestouch for many moons now, signed by Tasteosis and many Team Liquid luminaries.
The cable got kinked pretty badly in transit once, haven’t had many problems with it since that happened but I think eventually I will if my G9X is anything to go by.
I’ll probably be getting another, 10 keyless with browns one day for portability/quietness for future study/work environments but I’d still like to keep my original baby in rotation for as long as possible!
On August 14 2020 21:00 Wombat_NI wrote: How /easyfeasible is it to re-cable a keyboard?
I’ve had my beloved Filco Majestouch for many moons now, signed by Tasteosis and many Team Liquid luminaries.
The cable got kinked pretty badly in transit once, haven’t had many problems with it since that happened but I think eventually I will if my G9X is anything to go by.
I’ll probably be getting another, 10 keyless with browns one day for portability/quietness for future study/work environments but I’d still like to keep my original baby in rotation for as long as possible!
Cheers in advance.
Likelihood of a keyboard failure is low as the cable doesn't flex that much in regular operation.
Level of difficulty for a replacement is pretty low, doable entirely with youtube guidance, but it will require crimpers and some connectors, or else a soldering iron(this option is not as good, although for this application it won't matter and requires fewer tools).
USB cable you can salvage from something, or buy a new one. Optionally buy a sleeving as well, but that isn't strictly necessary.
Generally speaking, the cable will be tied off to a strain relief and then plug into a 4pin header like the one below(NOTE: ALMOST CERTAINLY NOT THIS ONE SPECIFICALLY). In some cases the internal cable is just a microUSB header, which just means you buy a cable replacement.
You'll need to buy the mating connector and socket pins. I would probably get at least two sets if you're doing this for the first time, because the chance of a mistake is VERY high.
1. Open up keyboard and take out the cable. Make a note of pinout(color of cable and orientation). 2. For a new cable (can salvage USB cable from something, eg. USB extension(make sure to get USB 2.0) 3. Strip the new cable and crimp on the sockets, and plug it into the connector. 4. Install new keyboard.
It's probably easiest to either reach out to Filco, or else see if somebody else has done it to see what the mating connector is as there are hundreds of connectors with almost identical sizing that may or may not mate correctly.
Alternatively, get some heatshrink, a replacement USB cable, and splice the old connector onto the new cable by soldering them together and then heatshrink it all back up. This is the uglier solution, but will work in a pinch.
Disclaimer: I do have have an engineering background and part of my job involves doing stuff like this.
EPT
