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On January 17 2013 02:57 Rumiko wrote:I hope it is okay to ask here instead of making a new thread as I feel close to the answer. I had my new rig carefully set up and started installing my OS onto a brand new Corsair Force Series 3 SSD 120GB. No problems. A restart happens and the pc won't switch on again. Nothing. Relevant specs: MOBO:ASUS MAXIMUS V GENE, Socket-1155 (MAXIMUS V GENE) PSU: XFX ProSeries XXX Edition 850W PSU (P1-850X-XXB9) CPU: Intel i7-3770k (BX80637I73770K)
RAM: 2x4GB 1866 Kingston HyperX (KHX1866C11D3P1K2/8G)
GFX: Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD 7870 (GV-R787OC-2GD)
This is what I have tried so far: Test 1: Plugged out all but mobo 24 pin and 8pin. No reaction. When I pull out the 8pin and try again, I get the infinite reboot cycle. Test 2: Tried with my old 460w PSU without results(4pin in the 8pin) Using the new PSU in the old PC works. Test 3: Took everything apart and had a closer look at the mobo. This is from the same corner as the 8pin. http://i.imgur.com/JmZb7.jpg- Is this pic enough to straight out say that my mobo is defect?
looks pretty bad, like refurbished... Probably causes short circuit somewhere because of that. If you have plugged everything correctly that seems indeed like the most logical explanation.
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On January 17 2013 03:26 Shauni wrote:Show nested quote +On January 17 2013 02:57 Rumiko wrote:I hope it is okay to ask here instead of making a new thread as I feel close to the answer. I had my new rig carefully set up and started installing my OS onto a brand new Corsair Force Series 3 SSD 120GB. No problems. A restart happens and the pc won't switch on again. Nothing. Relevant specs: MOBO:ASUS MAXIMUS V GENE, Socket-1155 (MAXIMUS V GENE) PSU: XFX ProSeries XXX Edition 850W PSU (P1-850X-XXB9) CPU: Intel i7-3770k (BX80637I73770K)
RAM: 2x4GB 1866 Kingston HyperX (KHX1866C11D3P1K2/8G)
GFX: Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD 7870 (GV-R787OC-2GD)
This is what I have tried so far: Test 1: Plugged out all but mobo 24 pin and 8pin. No reaction. When I pull out the 8pin and try again, I get the infinite reboot cycle. Test 2: Tried with my old 460w PSU without results(4pin in the 8pin) Using the new PSU in the old PC works. Test 3: Took everything apart and had a closer look at the mobo. This is from the same corner as the 8pin. http://i.imgur.com/JmZb7.jpg- Is this pic enough to straight out say that my mobo is defect? looks pretty bad, like refurbished... Probably causes short circuit somewhere because of that. If you have plugged everything correctly that seems indeed like the most logical explanation.
Yeah, looks pretty nasty >.< Wish I had checked under before I installed it, I don't think that can be my fault though. Thanks for checking it out.
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If a joint is bad, then they usually catch it in the factory and do it by hand. Most of the stuff just looks like excess flux, a really poor job. Right? I rarely do any soldering. Anyway, I don't see any short there.
What exactly happens when you try to turn on? POST beep codes? What's the debug LED say? Which lights / fans turn on, and for how long? You tried resetting the BIOS? What did you get to?
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I'm not an expert on soldering and short circuits but isn't that the underside of a capacitor? In that case I don't think a short circuit or capacitor failure can be ruled out due to the job being redone manually (?). A lot of things can go wrong when you solder over an existing error. And the testing procedure sounds just like it. Sometimes won't turn on at all and sometimes it reboots at start up, that's like the definition of a short circuit with your motherboard. Not ruling out other things like bad assembly, but it doesn't seem as likely in this case.
Either way, whether it's the issue or not I think you can get it replaced. But I don't know why we recommended the Asus motherboard to him... Premium price at a lower standard QA testing than many other manufacturers. And they apparently have a quite nasty warranty process too.
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When it comes to warranty, I go through the place I bought it. They have awesome customer support, however I've gone down to England for the holidays so replacing would take a while.
In the case that I have to buy a new mATX mobo, what would you recommend(i7-3770k)? https://www.overclockers.co.uk / http://scan.co.uk/
edit: as for tests, there is absolutely no reaction when I switch on with the 8pin in. With everything plugged in, I get a fraction of a second of light from a fan's LEDs. Other than that, nothing. No fans start, the PSU won't even start. So yeah, some circuit break >:
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On January 17 2013 04:58 Rumiko wrote:When it comes to warranty, I go through the place I bought it. They have awesome customer support, however I've gone down to England for the holidays so replacing would take a while. In the case that I have to buy a new mATX mobo, what would you recommend(i7-3770k)? https://www.overclockers.co.uk / http://scan.co.uk/
I think I speak for most of us when recommending the ASRock Z77 Extreme4 M.
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Symptoms sound like that's it, but I was just saying I didn't think I saw the problem from the picture. i.e. no place you can circle and say that's it, unless somebody sees or understands something I don't, which is entirely possible. Of course you can't see through the PCB and there's no guarantee of the above. If it's redone manually, particularly if looking like that, I would be more wary of it than the other parts.
Bad connection failed after a couple power cycles following shipping?
As for where in the circuit that joint is, I've got no idea how the layout normally is. But given the spacing and so on, it seems unlikely to be one lead of two for a capacitor. Looks like those n-channel MOSFETs (5030AL) have their drains connected to that large fill area that runs through to the big joints. Urgh, I'm not really familiar with this stuff, especially if they have some kind of advanced voodoo high-efficiency weird designs other than just a normal synchronous buck converter. Does that exist? Because it's not heatsinked, it's probably the one of the two MOSFETs per phase on the "top" side that conducts less of the time and thus generates less heat. Hence the drain is connected to the source of the other MOSFET and the inductor in the VRM, at close to V_CC or whatever voltage it's responsible for. I think. Not sure if that makes sense.
Extreme4-M would be for SLI/Crossfire, which I'm assuming you want if you got a Maximus V Gene? Or not.
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Aha, okay. Yeah I want to have the option to upgrade and go all out SLI/Crossfire in the future, atm I'm just going to run on a 7870.
The Extreme4-M is not in stock though, hoping to have something delivered here Friday so I can get in a week of enjoyable gaming before Uni starts again. I would go through Amazon, but I need a UK bank acc for that. That leaves me with the options that let me pay through paypal or physical stores, and so far Overclockers and Scan seem like the best options.
I could also go for something cheap and simple and replace around Easter(RMA) IF I feel like I need to, as long as it'll be okay with the parts + Show Spoiler +CPU: Intel i7-3770k (BX80637I73770K)
RAM: 2x4GB 1866 Kingston HyperX (KHX1866C11D3P1K2/8G)
GFX: Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD 7870 (GV-R787OC-2GD)
etc..
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MSI Z77MA-G45
Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H
There are others, all the way up in price.
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Alright, thank you all for your help. VERY appreciated! 
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This is my first build
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xZSF
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xZSF/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xZSF/benchmarks/
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3-M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($133.60 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($42.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 6950 1GB Video Card ($310.80 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 600W ATX12V Power Supply ($39.99 @ Microcenter)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $883.32
I already have the graphic card a case and the power supply.
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A Radeon HD6950 is a very poor choice. It's an older card that gets outperformed by the newer Radeon HD7870, 7950, and GTX 660 which are all less expensive then what you're buying the 6950 for (except for the 7950).
An Asrock Z68 Pro3-M is an older model and overpriced at $134. You should be looking at H77 and B75 boards if you do not want to overclock.
A core i5 2400 is also an older model and also overpriced at $196. A core i5 3470 would be better. Also, if you intend on overclocking then you need a K suffix processor (a 3570k).
A G.Skill Value kit is also overpriced at $42, you can find Ripjaws, Snipers, etc available at this price point.
You mentioned you had a power supply already but listed a power supply in the list. The Thermaltake TR2 isn't very good just fyi if you plan on purchasing it...
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I can't change the graphic card and power supply i already have them.
What Motherboard do you recommend skyR ? and no i won't overclock.
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That's a x79 motherboard, which is for socket 2011 processors. The cheapest (but pointless) 2011 processor is the i7-3820, which is expensive.
If you don't want to overclock you want a cheap b-75 board for around about $70. An ivy bridge i5 (3470 for example) would be better, they're like $150(?) from microcenter I think.
Edit: something like this will work for the i5-2400 or the i5-3470.
Edit2: It's cheaper than what you linked with the same functionality, assuming you don't need 32gb of ram (lol).
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just a quick ? at what setting can a i5 3470 and a hd 6670 stream at with no fps drop?
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On January 17 2013 13:29 ImANinjaBich wrote:
just a quick ? at what setting can a i5 3470 and a hd 6670 stream at with no fps drop?
There is no such thing as no FPS drop. And yes you can, as streaming only depends on your CPU and Quantic.Illusion streams with a 3570 720p 60fps.
Taken from the Streaming with OBS guide.
On October 01 2012 16:42 QuanticIllusion wrote:
Core i5 3570 @ 3.40Ghz
AMD Radeon HD 7800 series =]
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On January 17 2013 14:44 iTzSnypah wrote:Show nested quote +On January 17 2013 13:29 ImANinjaBich wrote:
just a quick ? at what setting can a i5 3470 and a hd 6670 stream at with no fps drop? There is no such thing as no FPS drop. And yes you can, as streaming only depends on your CPU and Quantic.Illusion streams with a 3570 720p 60fps. Taken from the Streaming with OBS guide. Show nested quote +
On October 01 2012 16:42 QuanticIllusion wrote:
Core i5 3570 @ 3.40Ghz
AMD Radeon HD 7800 series =]
Just fwiw, to anybody who's streaming, especially if you have lower parts, OBS is definitely a good way to go. Much better resource utilization than xsplit imo.
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United Kingdom20332 Posts
By less resource utilization, are you talking about RAM or something? CPU seems to be almost identical and performance of the game or capture methods is really another factor i think
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EPT
