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Create StarCraft models with 3D printing

Forum Index > SC2 General
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Sholip
Profile Blog Joined March 2014
Hungary422 Posts
January 10 2015 17:04 GMT
#1
If you have ever wanted to create some awesome StarCraft related stuff, but didn’t know how to begin, this post might give you an idea. In this "tutorial" I’m going to try to explain how you can make your own StarCraft model via 3D printing.
3D printing is a fairly new technology with which one can make real 3D objects out of plastic, based on a virtual 3D model. The great thing is that all StarCraft unit, building, doodad, etc. models are easily accessible if you have the game, so you can print them out. Also, with 3D printing you can create any kind of form or geometry, so this can’t be a problem, either. Unfortunately, to convert those models into a printable file format, you need to have access to Autodesk 3ds Max, or any software that can handle .m3 files. As far as I know, though, you can download a free student edition if you are currently studying at a university. If you don’t have it, I can make the conversion for you, but it’s always better to see the model yourself.
However, do note that as awesome as such a model can be, it does require quite some commitment to create. And by commitment I mean time, but also financial commitment, because 3D printing is not exactly cheap. (I’m going to assume that you don’t have your own 3D printer, as it is really, really expensive. If you happen to have your own, then you can probably make these figures at much less expense.) The cost is not astronomical, though, so I think if you really like the game and would like some awesome looking models, then you can definitely give it a try.
The method of creating such a model is as written in the following steps. I'll be including pics about the steps I made when creating my model, so you can better see the result .

[image loading]

This seems to be the most obvious one: at the start you have to decide which unit or building or doodad or in-game model you would like to have in your hand. As obvious as it may seem, though, this step actually requires taking a number of factors into consideration.
Although 3D printing can actually create any form, choosing a very complex geometry may increase the printing price. In general, you want to choose a model which consist of few parts, but more importantly, the parts should be able to be printed without excessive use of support material. (The printer prints layers of plastic on top of each other. A layer, of course, cannot be printed floating mid-air, so if there is no other layer of material underneath, support material has to be used.)
Also, printing is best started from a plane surface, so for example models of buildings are relatively easy to print. As units usually don’t have such surfaces, the model often has to be cut into multiple parts, and then glued together (this is barely visible, especially if painted). If the model is too complicated, it may have to be cut into many parts, which, again, can lead to an increased price. Usually if a unit has a nice symmetry plane, it can be cut there and printed in two parts.
Keep in mind as well, that there are units which consist of “floating” parts, which look cool in-game, but they won’t float around in real life of course, so you have to come up with a way to fix them in place.
When choosing the unit, don’t forget the painting or decoration: units which require very detailed painting like Marines or most Zerg units will be much harder to decorate. Of course you can always choose not to paint the model, but it just looks so much cooler if it has colors. Finally, also consider how well the selected model would look, and in which size.
All things considered, there are some units which I recommend for 3D printing:

• Protoss air units, as they are easy to paint: they basically require two colors: blue and gold or silver. Especially good are the Tempest and the Phoenix. The Carrier, Void Ray, Mothership definitely look cool but they have a more complex geometry.
• Mechanical units, like Battlecruisers, Banshees, Vikings, Ravens, and Immortals, maybe Siege Tanks. They are also not that hard to paint.
• Some Zerg units, like Banelings.
• Almost any building. (They don’t look that impressive, though).

Units I don’t recommend (should be possible, though):

• Terran bio units. They are hard to paint and usually have complex models.
• Unfortunately this goes for most Zerg units I think.
• The Colossus may not be balanced enough to stand on its own legs, I think. (Which is a shame because it would look really cool).

+ Show Spoiler +
My model of choice was the Tempest:

[image loading]


After you chose your model, it’s time for step two.

[image loading]

The StarCraft unit models are found in MPQ files. To access them, you require an MPQ editor software. One such software is Ladik’s MPQ Editor. The MPQ file you need is

• …\Program Files\StarCraft II\Mods\Liberty.SC2Mod\Base.SC2Assets for WoL models, and
• …\Program Files\StarCraft II\Mods\Swarm.SC2Mod\Base.SC2Assets for HotS models.

You have to open the corresponding file with the MPQ Editor and you find the model in Assets\Units or Assets\Buildings, etc. The 3D models are in .m3 files. Once you found the .m3 file for your unit, export it to any place.
Note: some units are not referenced in the MPQ as in-game. For example, the model for the Mothership Core is found under PurifierMatrix, and the model for the Oracle is under PurifierMP.
If you can’t find the model for your unit, you can always open up the Galaxy Editor and in the Data Editor you can look for the model assigned to the unit.

+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]

This is the file to export. For some reason it's called TempestEx1.


Once the .m3 file is exported, you are ready for step three.

[image loading]

In order to create a 3D printable file from the .m3 file, you have to convert it, for example in STL format. This can be done using Autodesk 3ds Max or Blender. Blender is free, but I don’t know anything about it, so I’ll go with 3ds Max.
To import .m3 files into 3ds Max, download the M3 plugin from SC2 Mapster here and follow the install instructions. (A similar plugin also exists for Blender.) Once installed, click on the Utilities toolbox on the right (hammer icon), select MAXScript, and Run Script. Select the M3 Import script and open your .m3 file, and click Import. Make sure the “Import Mesh” box is at least checked in the Settings (sometimes you have to uncheck some of these boxes, otherwise you receive an error). Now the model should appear.
Once you see the model, you can export it into STL or IGES or any similar format, depending on what is needed for the printing. You can also select and delete some unnecessary parts of the model (Modify, Select), or save different parts in several files.
This step actually does not really require that you can use 3ds Max; all this can be done without much effort if you have never used the software (like me).

+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]

Right after importing the .m3 file. I removed the flying orb from the middle and then exported the whole stuff.


If you successfully exported the model in the required file format, move on to step four.

[image loading]

In this step, you have to find a company, person, or anyone who offers 3D printing service. If you live in an average sized city, chances are, there are several companies offering such a service. Contact them and ask for a specific price offer, and also what file format they need (mostly STL, I think).
If you agree on the price, there is nothing left but wait until the model is printed.
Note: The file exported from 3ds Max is very likely not ready to print yet. If you send the file in this state, the guys in the 3D printing company will most likely be able to “fix” it (at least this is my experience), but it may require some time (again, price goes up). If you can use 3ds Max, or SolidWorks, or any 3D software, you can try and fix it yourself. This “fixing” usually includes creating one solid body out of a bunch of surfaces (some of which are not even closed) and smaller solid bodies.

+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]

This is the model as printed (with scale). The two jets were not connected to the body in the model, so I had to glue them there myself. It looks pretty impressive even without painting, I think .


Once you have the printed model in your hand, it’s time for the final step.

[image loading]

While you may decide to leave the model unicolor, as it is printed, it certainly looks more impressive if you paint it. As mentioned earlier, this process requires the most skill and thus it is advisable to choose a model not too complicated. For example, a Protoss ship requires only two colors.
Tip: You can make the model super awesome if you use fluorescent paint on certain areas, which will glow in the dark just as some units emit light in the game. Imagine a glowing Baneling or a Protoss ship with glowing lights!

+ Show Spoiler +
Painting is the part which can make the model a hundred times cooler, but it may not be easy. While I think my model looks pretty impressive, we can all agree it could have been painted prettier. But man, those jets glow in the dark!
Some pics of the final model:

[image loading]

[image loading]

[image loading]

Kinetic matrix: ACTIVE!


Anyhow, I hope I managed to cover the topic well enough so some of you will be able to make your own model if you so decide . Main thing is that it is not impossible, and looks awesome in your room. I also hope I didn't come across entirely bragging about how cool a model I made (which I did, though), and actually showed something useful .
"A hero is no braver than an ordinary man, but he is brave five minutes longer. Also, Zest is best." – Ralph Waldo Emerson
Shkudde
Profile Joined February 2011
Netherlands709 Posts
January 10 2015 17:15 GMT
#2
Awesome, although (don't hate me!) I think it actually looks better without the paintjob.
$O$ | herO[jOin] | Zest hwaiting!
rotta
Profile Joined December 2011
5587 Posts
January 10 2015 17:32 GMT
#3
Nice! I could sure go for Carrier, Cannon or Bunker.
don't wall off against random
Sholip
Profile Blog Joined March 2014
Hungary422 Posts
January 10 2015 17:46 GMT
#4
On January 11 2015 02:32 rotta wrote:
Nice! I could sure go for Carrier, Cannon or Bunker.

Well, you can imagine I wanted a Mothership at first But it turned out to be too problematic, so I just went with the Tempest.
The Bunker and Cannon should be fairly easy (not the Carrier though, which would be frickin awesome in return ).
"A hero is no braver than an ordinary man, but he is brave five minutes longer. Also, Zest is best." – Ralph Waldo Emerson
H0i
Profile Joined October 2010
Netherlands484 Posts
January 10 2015 18:07 GMT
#5
With model pieces that are detatched, you can simply use the "boolean union" commands to merge the pieces into one. You may need to add some simple primitives to fill up small spaces, but merging loose parts shouldn't be too hard.
Cricketer12
Profile Blog Joined May 2012
United States13974 Posts
January 10 2015 18:16 GMT
#6
this is super cool, nice work as always sholip
Kaina + Drones Linkcro Summon Cupsie Yummy Way
Sholip
Profile Blog Joined March 2014
Hungary422 Posts
January 10 2015 20:41 GMT
#7
On January 11 2015 03:07 H0i wrote:
With model pieces that are detatched, you can simply use the "boolean union" commands to merge the pieces into one. You may need to add some simple primitives to fill up small spaces, but merging loose parts shouldn't be too hard.

Having the jets as separate bodies actually helped in this case, since printing was easier. The tricky part is creating a solid body out of the surfaces. Is there a simple command for that in 3ds max, or you have to do it manually for each surface?
"A hero is no braver than an ordinary man, but he is brave five minutes longer. Also, Zest is best." – Ralph Waldo Emerson
H0i
Profile Joined October 2010
Netherlands484 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-01-10 21:20:35
January 10 2015 21:18 GMT
#8
You just select your objects to be merged, open boolean tab and use the 'union' option you find there.

To fill any holes use modifiers -> mesh editing -> cap holes
NovemberstOrm
Profile Blog Joined September 2011
Canada16217 Posts
January 10 2015 21:37 GMT
#9
That's very cool!
Moderatorlickypiddy
eonDE
Profile Joined November 2011
Canada371 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-01-10 21:38:33
January 10 2015 21:37 GMT
#10
You could use this tool called MiniMagics to inspect your printing part: http://software.materialise.com/minimagics
TelecoM
Profile Blog Joined January 2010
United States10673 Posts
January 10 2015 21:42 GMT
#11
Wow this is so cool.
AKA: TelecoM[WHITE] Protoss fighting
rotta
Profile Joined December 2011
5587 Posts
January 10 2015 21:52 GMT
#12
I have two companies near me and once I've chosen the model I'll ask for an offer, but I'm curious about the price range. How much did you pay?
don't wall off against random
Sholip
Profile Blog Joined March 2014
Hungary422 Posts
January 10 2015 22:57 GMT
#13
On January 11 2015 06:52 rotta wrote:
I have two companies near me and once I've chosen the model I'll ask for an offer, but I'm curious about the price range. How much did you pay?

I paid about $30 worth of HUF, but I'm not sure if that's like the "normal" price. I just ordered it from the first company, and the guy said that actually most of the price was preparing the model to be printable. If you can fix the model yourself, you can reduce this cost significantly. Also, I think it depends on the technology they use.
"A hero is no braver than an ordinary man, but he is brave five minutes longer. Also, Zest is best." – Ralph Waldo Emerson
albertnagya
Profile Joined October 2018
1 Post
October 06 2018 20:49 GMT
#14
Hello,

I would like to know how can I get 3D models of the figures from Starcraft Broodwar ? Is that somehow possible?

Thank you,

Attila
Psychonian
Profile Joined March 2012
United States2322 Posts
October 06 2018 20:56 GMT
#15
What's with all the several year old threads getting brought back from the dead lately?
Trans Rights
ZackAttack
Profile Joined June 2011
United States884 Posts
November 28 2018 20:00 GMT
#16
Hey,I hate to necro this thread again but I made an immortal with articulated joints for my final project in a 3D printing class and I thought this would be a great place to show it off.

+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
It's better aerodynamics for space. - Artosis
johnwaters
Profile Joined November 2024
7 Posts
Last Edited: 2025-02-26 14:28:43
February 26 2025 14:28 GMT
#17
--- Nuked ---
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