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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
For a better power supply, you're paying for a more sophisticated and optimized circuit design (R&D costs plus the extra costs of additional components to do something more complicated) and higher-grade components. Better housing / paint job / fan (higher reliability and/or lower noise) / cable sleeving / more cables and connectors / packaging / manual / warranty should be apparent.
A more complicated design may need extra daughterboard PCBs or more layers on the PCB. More sophisticated, high-performance technologies and safety features require more parts (e.g. two transistors required in a certain place rather of one) and maybe more expensive types of parts (e.g. high-spec rectifier rather than a cheap diode). Higher-quality capacitors can last many years longer, and they're a little more expensive. Higher-spec transformers, high-quality and larger inductors, more and larger capacitors, higher-spec ICs like transistors and rectifiers allow for higher wattage to be delivered, hence something capable of 1200W costing more than a premium-quality power supply capable of only 400W. Larger heatsinks cost more money. A modular connector board and those plugs cost more than just soldering wires to the PCB. Some might be surprised how much plugs cost compared to everything that's not big hunks of iron or certain expensive ICs. But it's largely that the high-end stuff has much higher profit margins.
You can't particularly see the quality of components without opening it up, and you can't tell the performance of the design (more or less, how stable all the outputs are, in a variety of ways and circumstances) and all the small details of how it works without bench testing, oscilloscopes, etc. i.e. you need to check 3rd-party technical reviews. Or just ask us or anybody else familiar with the models and brands from such reviews.
Labeled wattage and performance can be whatever, as people are free to print whatever they want on the label. Some fudge some numbers or pull some marketing tricks to fool unwary consumers. Others just lie outright.
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On January 18 2013 07:08 hacklebeast wrote: If I'm getting a new case and power supply, what makes one "quality"? I assume the difference is cases is mostly cosmetic, but the price in power supplys varies way too much for there not to be a significant difference.
watts. the more you have the better.
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On January 18 2013 09:38 Shauni wrote:Show nested quote +On January 18 2013 07:08 hacklebeast wrote: If I'm getting a new case and power supply, what makes one "quality"? I assume the difference is cases is mostly cosmetic, but the price in power supplys varies way too much for there not to be a significant difference. watts. the more you have the better. I hope you're joking. This is the least important 'rating' attached to power supplies.
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Efficiency on power supplies start to go down the more overage on wattage you have. Think of it as a sweet spot. You want there to be enough power draw such that you are in the sweet spot of the continuous power delivery.
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If I understand PSUs correctly, the the 80 plus Bronze means it's 80% + eff at set wattages? I'm using a 650watt super flower 80 plus bronze on a 7950/3570k (currently non OCed) system, overkill I know. Would getting a 450w psu save electricity costs? Is having a 650w psu for for my system being overly inefficient?
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Since you already have a bronze efficient power supply. The investment into an even more efficient device would take years to recoup the cost, assuming somewhat average use.
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On January 18 2013 12:56 Medrea wrote: Since you already have a bronze efficient power supply. The investment into an even more efficient device would take years to recoup the cost, assuming somewhat average use. I understand that, but would, hypothetically speaking, switching to a 450w unit measurably save money? And how would it? By being more efficient at the same wattage levels? How would a lower wattage unit of the same psu (super flower 80 plus) be more efficient?
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Pennies a month.
On January 18 2013 13:25 Medrea wrote: No i actually think the Temperature thing determines how many watts its actually able to produce. A PSU produces less the hotter it gets.
I misspoke earlier.
Myrmidon would probably be the best at explaining why too low a draw is inefficient for a PSU. I have a feeling it has to do with how the PSU actually delivers its power, and that delivering tiny amounts of power across huge rails is not efficient.
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On January 18 2013 12:59 Medrea wrote: Pennies a month.
EDIT: The sweet spot exists because of how power delivery works with respect to heat. Note that most PSU's are rated at 50C. So the reason a power supply is more efficient at 50% load as opposed to 30% is because it's (somehow) running cooler? I really don't understand how the temperature effect can work in the way you described.
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No i actually think the Temperature thing determines how many watts its actually able to produce. A PSU produces less the hotter it gets.
I misspoke earlier. Thats probably what you were expecting.
Myrmidon would probably be the best at explaining why too low a draw is inefficient for a PSU. I have a feeling it has to do with how the PSU actually delivers its power, and that delivering tiny amounts of power across huge rails is not efficient.
EDIT: Sorry late night. Not thinking right.
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On January 18 2013 06:13 hacklebeast wrote:Hi, I need to replace my graphic card (the one I have is 6 years old and crashes my computer once every three weeks due to overheating) and I'm thinking about just building a new one from scratch. Not entirely sure if I'm going to do it, but I want to start getting info to make an informed decision. + Show Spoiler +What is your budget?I'd like it to be 600, but it's a very lose budget. If someone tells me to spend 850 and explains why it's worth it, I could be convinced. What is your resolution?1920X1200 What are you using it for?Boring internet/school things. I play games on it, but I don't buy new games often at all, so if it can run shogun2 total war, that's more than good enough. triple monitor would be cool, but I assume that it is significantly more expensive and not worth it. Pretty much I want something that is pretty good now, and will stay good for years. What is your upgrade cycle?as long as is reasonable When do you plan on building it?I'm in no rush. If there is a good reason to wait 4 months, that's fine. Do you plan on overclocking?no Do you need an Operating System?most likely, let's assume yes for now Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?No Where are you buying your parts from?Live in continental United States. microcenter and frys are both within driving distance. I also have a bunch of parts that are either in the comp I'm using now, or were salvaged from other comps in the past. I don't know how much of it is relevant. + Show Spoiler + As a more general question: how hard is it to actually build the thing? I'm not the best at the technical stuff, certainly no stranger to simple things like replacing ram/graphics cards. Is it something I can figure out myself, or do I really need someone who has done it before to make sure I don't fry my new shiny GPU day 1?
Alright, looking around, this seems like a good build:
BIOSTAR TZ77XE4 1155 ATX +
Intel Core i5-3450 (both from micro center, combined 200) Edit: I misread how the sale worked. It's 100 for the board, and I get to pick between i5 3570k unlocked for 150, or i3 3225 for 80. Not sure which is better deal
SAPPHIRE 11180-00 Radeon HD 6850 1GB (newegg 100)
Corsair 120GB Force Series 3 SSD (frys 85)
HAF 912 Case (44 micro center)
Diablotek UL Series PSUL675 675W (newegg 42)
Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Sound Card (already have)
and 3 GB of this (already have)
Total is about 500 before software. Any feedback is welcome. I'm least sure about the PSU and the SSD. I just want to be sure that I didn't get anything that is dramaticaly better/worse than anything else, and that it will all work together.
Thank you
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Diablotek PSU will blow it all up in a puff of smoke. Its the worst PSU maker in the world next to maybe Logisys and some knock off Chinese bootleg ripoffs.
Check out that HDD thread we're also talking in.
Use a real power supply like a CX430V2 or something.
Also its possibly worth looking into more RAM since its so cheap now and you probably need it.
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+ Show Spoiler [power supply efficiency] +80 plus tests power supplies for efficiency levels at certain loads: 20%, 50%, and 100%. As everyone's pointed out, efficiency varies by load. It also varies by the percentage of the load on +12V vs. +5V vs. +3.3V (and +5VSB). And it also depends on temperature and generally drops with higher temperature; 80 plus tests at 23C. If for whateve reason you're having the power supply intake air from inside the case, it could well be over 23C. The MOSFETs used for switching and maybe some other parts would have higher effective resistance at higher temperatures, just like your CPU and GPU. Thus you get more losses at higher temperatures, generally. Higher temperatures also reduce key components' ability to conduct current, so that reduces the max power that can be supplied. Sometimes they give different ratings at different intake temperatures, like 500W @ 40C, 400W @ 50C—though generally I don't think that's common anymore for consumer computer power supplies.
It's actually more efficient for a power supply to spend energy running a fan than it is to have the components running hotter. Hence why people are impressed by Seasonic Platinum (fanless) 520W's crazy efficiency results.
--- Now let's play the "Myrmidon does a lot of guessing and doesn't guarantee any accuracy" game.
The basic principle behind a linear power supply is that if the load isn't requiring much power, it will burn all sorts of excess power (i.e. ohmic losses in resistors) to keep the output around what it should be. Because this is a huge waste and also to keep transformer sizes reasonable, computers use switched-mode power supplies, aka SMPS. (Transformer needs to be larger if operating at lower frequency like 50/60 Hz as compared to something much higher, and also for higher output power levels. A huge transformer could easily cost more than entire high-end computer power supplies.)
The operating principle behind a computer SMPS is to (1) rectify input mains voltage into close to DC, (2) rapidly connect and disconnect (i.e. switch; and connecting/disconnecting is done by manipulating transistor drain/source/gate voltages, not mechanically) that rectified voltage to the main transformer so you get a fast square wave, (3) make a square wave of smaller magnitude appear on the other side of a transformer because that's what transformers do with AC signals, and (4) rectify / filter / convert the output of the transformer to +12V / +5V / +3.3V in some way or another and many other details.
The important thing to note is that there's a controller that determines how long per cycle the transformer is connected on the mains side. Whenever it's connected, energy is being transferred to the other side. If more power is consumed by the computer, more energy needs to be sent across. Also, all this switching action can't be done perfectly, so there is power lost there, though there are many hax improvements and ways to mitigate that power loss.
At low loads, not much energy needs to be transferred, and the "on" time per cycle is relatively low. A relatively high amount of power is lost needing to do all the switching. (That said, some power supplies have all sorts of hax tricks regarding how to operate the transformer, save energy. Some actually reduce the switching frequency at low loads, which I think can save energy at the expense of performance. This is why in some reviews you see the ripple is relatively high at lower loads, or maybe the ripple is lower at 40% than at 20% or something weird like that.)
Also, consider all the capacitors, maybe some other parts. The filter capacitors at say the +12V output are there no matter what the load is, and they'll always have about +12V. I think losses there are mostly due to the equivalent series resistance (low but nonzero), so there's leakage current losses there no matter if you're at full power supply load or a low load. The transistors and other ICs have some quiescent current draw even when off or not doing anything.
In other words, different sources of power losses scale differently with output power. At too low loads, some inevitable losses that don't really increase much (or less than linearly) with load, will be a relatively large power draw compared to output power delivered. Hence low efficiency. At high loads, you get higher internal operating temperatures and higher currents running through the circuit. Both increase the power draw of the switching transistors relative to power delivered, for example. So worse efficiency past a certain point.
Urgh, long post. Probably not even correct in a couple areas or missing a few obvious things.
edit: Efficiency is more related to the overall design, but there can be some difference at lower loads if you change from a higher-wattage version of one to a lower-wattage version (which should have same switching frequencies and many other common elements). The lower-wattage version may have some less ICs and their quiescent draws, maybe some fewer capacitors or lower values so less losses there, and so on. However, it's probably not really all that different between say a 450W model @ 100W output compared to the 650W model of the same series and design @ 100W output.
edit2: Hopefully somebody reads at least part of the above, lol.
Also, you can maybe get some ideas about tradeoffs between high efficiency and high performance. Use more filtering caps, lose a slight amount of energy there, and get lower efficiency but lower ripple. Lower the switching frequency and you get less losses at the expense of responding to changes in the output and regulating those at a slower pace (I think). LLC resonant designs minimize switching losses, but this is supposedly at the expense of quick transient responses. At least without some more voodoo black magic solutions that the top-tier PSU manufacturers know about, which enables high efficiency with all kinds of high performance (with high cost).
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On January 18 2013 13:35 Medrea wrote: Diablotek PSU will blow it all up in a puff of smoke. Its the worst PSU maker in the world next to maybe Logisys and some knock off Chinese bootleg ripoffs.
Check out that HDD thread we're also talking in.
Use a real power supply like a CX430V2 or something.
Also its possibly worth looking into more RAM since its so cheap now and you probably need it.
The gpu asks for a minimum of 500W. How much wattage do I need?
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On January 18 2013 16:17 hacklebeast wrote:Show nested quote +On January 18 2013 13:35 Medrea wrote: Diablotek PSU will blow it all up in a puff of smoke. Its the worst PSU maker in the world next to maybe Logisys and some knock off Chinese bootleg ripoffs.
Check out that HDD thread we're also talking in.
Use a real power supply like a CX430V2 or something.
Also its possibly worth looking into more RAM since its so cheap now and you probably need it. The gpu asks for a minimum of 500W. How much wattage do I need?? Any quality 400/450w will do.
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On January 18 2013 14:30 Myrmidon wrote:+ Show Spoiler [power supply efficiency] +80 plus tests power supplies for efficiency levels at certain loads: 20%, 50%, and 100%. As everyone's pointed out, efficiency varies by load. It also varies by the percentage of the load on +12V vs. +5V vs. +3.3V (and +5VSB). And it also depends on temperature and generally drops with higher temperature; 80 plus tests at 23C. If for whateve reason you're having the power supply intake air from inside the case, it could well be over 23C. The MOSFETs used for switching and maybe some other parts would have higher effective resistance at higher temperatures, just like your CPU and GPU. Thus you get more losses at higher temperatures, generally. Higher temperatures also reduce key components' ability to conduct current, so that reduces the max power that can be supplied. Sometimes they give different ratings at different intake temperatures, like 500W @ 40C, 400W @ 50C—though generally I don't think that's common anymore for consumer computer power supplies.
It's actually more efficient for a power supply to spend energy running a fan than it is to have the components running hotter. Hence why people are impressed by Seasonic Platinum (fanless) 520W's crazy efficiency results.
--- Now let's play the "Myrmidon does a lot of guessing and doesn't guarantee any accuracy" game.
The basic principle behind a linear power supply is that if the load isn't requiring much power, it will burn all sorts of excess power (i.e. ohmic losses in resistors) to keep the output around what it should be. Because this is a huge waste and also to keep transformer sizes reasonable, computers use switched-mode power supplies, aka SMPS. (Transformer needs to be larger if operating at lower frequency like 50/60 Hz as compared to something much higher, and also for higher output power levels. A huge transformer could easily cost more than entire high-end computer power supplies.)
The operating principle behind a computer SMPS is to (1) rectify input mains voltage into close to DC, (2) rapidly connect and disconnect (i.e. switch; and connecting/disconnecting is done by manipulating transistor drain/source/gate voltages, not mechanically) that rectified voltage to the main transformer so you get a fast square wave, (3) make a square wave of smaller magnitude appear on the other side of a transformer because that's what transformers do with AC signals, and (4) rectify / filter / convert the output of the transformer to +12V / +5V / +3.3V in some way or another and many other details.
The important thing to note is that there's a controller that determines how long per cycle the transformer is connected on the mains side. Whenever it's connected, energy is being transferred to the other side. If more power is consumed by the computer, more energy needs to be sent across. Also, all this switching action can't be done perfectly, so there is power lost there, though there are many hax improvements and ways to mitigate that power loss.
At low loads, not much energy needs to be transferred, and the "on" time per cycle is relatively low. A relatively high amount of power is lost needing to do all the switching. (That said, some power supplies have all sorts of hax tricks regarding how to operate the transformer, save energy. Some actually reduce the switching frequency at low loads, which I think can save energy at the expense of performance. This is why in some reviews you see the ripple is relatively high at lower loads, or maybe the ripple is lower at 40% than at 20% or something weird like that.)
Also, consider all the capacitors, maybe some other parts. The filter capacitors at say the +12V output are there no matter what the load is, and they'll always have about +12V. I think losses there are mostly due to the equivalent series resistance (low but nonzero), so there's leakage current losses there no matter if you're at full power supply load or a low load. The transistors and other ICs have some quiescent current draw even when off or not doing anything.
In other words, different sources of power losses scale differently with output power. At too low loads, some inevitable losses that don't really increase much (or less than linearly) with load, will be a relatively large power draw compared to output power delivered. Hence low efficiency. At high loads, you get higher internal operating temperatures and higher currents running through the circuit. Both increase the power draw of the switching transistors relative to power delivered, for example. So worse efficiency past a certain point.
Urgh, long post. Probably not even correct in a couple areas or missing a few obvious things.
edit: Efficiency is more related to the overall design, but there can be some difference at lower loads if you change from a higher-wattage version of one to a lower-wattage version (which should have same switching frequencies and many other common elements). The lower-wattage version may have some less ICs and their quiescent draws, maybe some fewer capacitors or lower values so less losses there, and so on. However, it's probably not really all that different between say a 450W model @ 100W output compared to the 650W model of the same series and design @ 100W output.
edit2: Hopefully somebody reads at least part of the above, lol.
Also, you can maybe get some ideas about tradeoffs between high efficiency and high performance. Use more filtering caps, lose a slight amount of energy there, and get lower efficiency but lower ripple. Lower the switching frequency and you get less losses at the expense of responding to changes in the output and regulating those at a slower pace (I think). LLC resonant designs minimize switching losses, but this is supposedly at the expense of quick transient responses. At least without some more voodoo black magic solutions that the top-tier PSU manufacturers know about, which enables high efficiency with all kinds of high performance (with high cost).
Thanks for taking the time to write all of that, you've sparked my interest, I think I'll do some in depth research on power supply internals now.
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Didn't feel like creating a new thread, so:
Want: SSD. Size: 120~ish GB should be good.; 2.5"inch Price: under 200$ US, under 150 is even better Sata II is the max my mobo can handle Computer: Late 2008 Macbook Pro 15"
anyone have any recommendations? Judging by the technical specifications all of them are pretty much similar in terms of speed, so i'm not sure what justifies the price differences on so many of them.
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quick q - looking for a case in the price range of cm storm scout - anything clearly better in that range? (not a fan of haf 912, no rosewills available)
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On January 18 2013 23:47 CHiPZ wrote: Didn't feel like creating a new thread, so:
Want: SSD. Size: 120~ish GB should be good.; 2.5"inch Price: under 200$ US, under 150 is even better Sata II is the max my mobo can handle Computer: Late 2008 Macbook Pro 15"
anyone have any recommendations? Judging by the technical specifications all of them are pretty much similar in terms of speed, so i'm not sure what justifies the price differences on so many of them.
Crucial M4 or Samsung 840.
The pricing comes from the use of different NAND, firmware, and warranty. For example, the price difference between the Samsung 840 and Samsung 840 Pro comes from the two extra years of warranty provided by the Pro, the difference in firmware, and the use of MLC NAND (instead of TLC which has lower write endurance - not an issue for the regular consumer).
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