Nah. It's not that big of a deal (plus I'd actually have to buy some, since I don't have any). I'll probably have to just open the case back up and unplug the LED pin.
I know exactly what your talking about, my case does it too (pc isnt in bedroom anymore). Some motherboards have a BIOS option for it.
If you don't mind, you can change the sleep mode (s1, s2, s3) from what you currently have it as, on some motherboards they blinking light will go away during certain sleep modes and not in others. You can google what the difference is between S1, S2, S3 sleep states, but basically it's how 'hard' the computer sleeps when you put it to sleep (ie does gpu turn off or not, ram turn off or not, etc, s3 is best but your system might not fully wake up from s3, hence why s1 and s2 exist). If you dont mind how hard your PC sleeps, that is.
You could also unplug your case LED, but unlike what others have said, you can mod it to hook up to the power supply, fan controller, or motherboard header instead. Just a matter of clipping it (or using adaptors if you dont want to do that) and attaching the right wire to the right wire. Very easy to do, you can google stuff on that.
Or, just replace it with a cold cathode LED that's a similar length. Could even change the color. Cold cathode LEDs are made to hook up to power so it's basically doing the above but with something that's designed to be plugged into a psu/fancontroller/motherboard.
Several of the little pins are bent and I cannot straighten them for all of them to go into the holes. The tech guy at my work said that's my problem. I dont know what to do but I need to have it back up and running by the weekend. I figured just getting a new one would be the easiest and cheapest solution.
If you are very, very careful and put in the time to slowly straighten all the pins for the CPU, it'll probably work. I did that once to an Athlon 64 x2 & after straightening it was good as new. You need to use the tip of a pin or the point of an exacto-knife, the tip of a blade from a swiss army knife, something like that.
Tough to say Shindou. Yes, GPU upgrade is probably the best way to improve performance (some games may be exceptions but for you I don't think that's a serious consideration). However, you have a pre-made HP. They usually have fairly crappy power supplies that sometimes can't handle upgrades that draw more power than their original components. If you do upgrade your GPU, keep to one of the new, low-end GPUs like a power-sipping 7770 unless you're also willing to get a new power supply.
A Radeon 7770 will still be significantly more powerful than a 5450.
On December 05 2012 06:32 Shindou wrote: Hey guys I have an HP PC with a 2.7GHz AMD Phenom II x6 processor, 9GB RAM (says 3.24 usable) and an AT Radeon HD 5450 video card. To be honest I mostly play WOW and Oblivion now but I generally have to run these games on very low settings to avoid choppiness in my FPS. I was wondering if I was right on my hunch that a video card would be the best place to shoot for an upgrade, or if you guys think something else would do me one better.
Yes upgrading your GPU is the way to go IMO. The CPU is a bit aged but should still be able to handle most games fairly well. I don't know your price range but I think that given the CPU, these would be your best options IMO
I would personally lean toward the Geforce cards because they come with AC3 which is pretty good added value! All those cards would be significant and very noticeable upgrades over your card of course. That said, you'll need the power supply to support it. Yours is probably fine given that those GPUs all consume little power, but it's still a good idea to be sure.
On December 06 2012 03:08 FairDestroyer wrote: @ Belial88
Several of the little pins are bent and I cannot straighten them for all of them to go into the holes. The tech guy at my work said that's my problem. I dont know what to do but I need to have it back up and running by the weekend. I figured just getting a new one would be the easiest and cheapest solution.
Just get something very small like tweezers and you can place the long side against the pin and gently lean the tweezer to the side to straighten the pin. Don't try to clamp the pin. They will bend to the side very easily, so just use a little pressure to straighten it back to normal.
On December 06 2012 03:08 FairDestroyer wrote: @ Belial88
Several of the little pins are bent and I cannot straighten them for all of them to go into the holes. The tech guy at my work said that's my problem. I dont know what to do but I need to have it back up and running by the weekend. I figured just getting a new one would be the easiest and cheapest solution.
Then I strongly recommend you check out this thread:
I bought a Phenom ii 955 for $31, that had hundreds of bent pins (all of the edge rows, and then some) and 5 broken pins).
You can bend the pins back in place. My preferred method, and many others, is to take a mechanical pencil (the thinner the lead it takes, the better), take out the lead, and use it to straighten the pins, as they will fit right into the mechanical pencil.
If it's bent a little more extreme, take a thin knife and pry it up a bit, and then use a mechanical pencil.
once they are mostly straightened out, use a credit card (try to keep the magnetic strip away from the CPU, maybe use an ID card or something instead) to perfectly straighten out the pins, as it'll fit right between the rows perfectly on a straightened row of pins.
If any of the pins break, you need to take COPPER (or gold) wire, and stick it into the motherboard slot to the corresponding broken pin. It needs to be slightly longer than the socket hole - remember, when you 'lock' the socket, like set the pin down, the holes recess a bit, so what might be perfect length for a piece of wire, will be too short when you lock the CPU in place (just stick wire in that's obviously a fraction too long, lock the socket, and see if the wire is still long enough, and then cut to size). I find the best way to put wire into the socket holes, is to make it obviously long, like a mm too long (we're talking bits of wire about 1-2mm long), lock the socket, and then mash it in with a phillips head screwdriver.
The key is for the wire to NOT touch any other sockets, but if you mash the wire into the socket when it's locked, it should sort of circularize into the hole, to get a nice good contact. Kind of hard to explain, but basically have the wire like a 1/2 mm too long when the socket is locked into place, then mash it in with a phillips head screw driver, and you'll have a good contact that clearly won't touch any other pins. The motherboard socket pin slots sort of have a recess around where the CPU pins would go, so it fits in real nice.
You have nothing to lose. You want to use copper (or gold) wire because copper has good thermal conductivity and heat resistance, if you use something like aluminum wire it'll burn up. The perfect place to get copper wire like this is from an ethernet cable - you don't want to use thin strands, you want a thin wire, there's a difference. An RJ45 ethernet cable has something like 5 wires in it (or was it 7?), and each wire is made up of around... i forget, i want to say 11 but i know that isn't right, but it has around a half dozen copper wires making up each wire. That's what you want to use.
Theoretically gold wire would work too (the pins are made of gold, that's also why they bend so easily) but you aren't exactly going to have that laying around and well, if copper wire works, do what works.
Even if you straighten the pins, the CPU still likely won't go into socket as smoothly as a perfectly new CPU will, you might have to do some shifting. A great way to get an imperfect CPU into socket, is to just put in the smooth side of pins, or a corner of it. With a bit of nudging, you can get as many sides as you can until one side simply won't go in (ie, the bottom half will go in, and as you try to wiggle it in, it's very obvious there's bent pins in the middle of the cpu, or the top middle, or bottom middle), in which case you get back to straightening out those pins a bit better, and repeat.
THAT would be the cheapest solution. And it works, many people have done it. Can you post a picture of your CPU? I worked with a pretty extreme case of fucked up, but if all you have is some bent pins, that's an everyday problem that many people have encountered and fixed easily. Broken pins is what's a little more difficult.
Here's a great youtube video where someone fixes this kind of problem:
Also, could you tell me what pins of your's are broken?
Here you'll find what's called a "pin layout". match up the graph, figure out which pins are the ones that are broken, and match it up to what the pin's function is. There are quite a few redundant and non-critical pins like grounds that you simply might not even need.
On December 06 2012 10:58 giX wrote: I'm trying to maximize my FPS while streaming, and it keeps dipping below 20 and sometimes to 10 whether I use OBS or Xsplit.
I have a i7-2600 3.40 ghz, AMD Radeon 6900, and 16 GB of Ram.
my settings quality: 6 bitrate: 1500 buffer: 1500 resolution: 1920x1080 fps: 30 cpu preset: veryfast
do I need to upgrade my hardware? or tweak my settings. any help is appreciated!
Quality 10. no reason to use quality 6.
Bitrate is WAY too low for 1080. Your gonna have lots of pixelation.
There's no reason to stream on 1080. Anyone will tell you that 720@60fps looks a LOT better than 1080@30fps (good luck getting 1080@60fps, not gonna happen without a ridiculous bitrate that prevents people from viewing the stream). Try 720@30fps and then work your way up from there (although you should be able to stream 720@60 np).
Make sure your on windowed mode, of course, on screen region. You might also want to try dxtory/fullscreen - some people/systems report better fps on dxtory/game source captures instead, for no logical reason.
What's your upload? Are you getting any dropped frames? Could you please post your OBS log? Are you getting input lag?
Like 6 years ago I had a dumb phone Nokia 6205. Then I got a smart phone 3G, but it broke so I temporarily used the dumb phone for a month (i reactivated the dumb phone). Then I got a new, new, smartest phone 4G (obvoiusly, unactivating the dumb phone). I used the same phone number this whole time, never had more than 1 phone running.
I sold my dumb phone. I didnt take out the sim card (not sure if it even had one). it was a Nokia 6205. Do I need to worry about this? I'm also on Verizon.
Can I run a OC'd 3570k + 7870 with the 500w Cooler Master Extreme? I already have these items in my computer right now, and I just want to know if I can safely OC with this PSU. Thanks in advance.
Even if not, Cooler Master has no shame in selling crap that doesn't meet specs, for their lower-end lineup. I wouldn't expect much. That said, at least they have some basic protections and aren't bottom-of-the-barrel stuff that needs to be replaced ASAP.
Anyway, even with some decent OC, you'd be unlikely to top 250W power draw in any reasonable scenario. The power supply can handle that okay. An additional OC shouldn't make the setup significantly less safe than it currently is.
Ok so I don't know much about gaming but my Fiancé is a big gamer and i want to give him a new gaming keyboard and mouse but I don't really know wats good, can anybody help me out? I was gonna get him the Hoodie but $80 for 2 little icons on the corners..... Anyways what's recommended I buy him?
On December 07 2012 03:03 PandaUnderCover wrote: Ok so I don't know much about gaming but my Fiancé is a big gamer and i want to give him a new gaming keyboard and mouse but I don't really know wats good, can anybody help me out? I was gonna get him the Hoodie but $80 for 2 little icons on the corners..... Anyways what's recommended I buy him?
For keyboards, you have Filco, Leopold, Coolermaster Quick Fire, Corsair K60 (for FPS) / K90 (for MMO). There's a lot more options as well.
For mice, that depends on whether he uses a palm or claw grip.
On December 06 2012 03:08 FairDestroyer wrote: @ Belial88
Several of the little pins are bent and I cannot straighten them for all of them to go into the holes. The tech guy at my work said that's my problem. I dont know what to do but I need to have it back up and running by the weekend. I figured just getting a new one would be the easiest and cheapest solution.
Then I strongly recommend you check out this thread:
I bought a Phenom ii 955 for $31, that had hundreds of bent pins (all of the edge rows, and then some) and 5 broken pins).
You can bend the pins back in place. My preferred method, and many others, is to take a mechanical pencil (the thinner the lead it takes, the better), take out the lead, and use it to straighten the pins, as they will fit right into the mechanical pencil.
If it's bent a little more extreme, take a thin knife and pry it up a bit, and then use a mechanical pencil.
once they are mostly straightened out, use a credit card (try to keep the magnetic strip away from the CPU, maybe use an ID card or something instead) to perfectly straighten out the pins, as it'll fit right between the rows perfectly on a straightened row of pins.
If any of the pins break, you need to take COPPER (or gold) wire, and stick it into the motherboard slot to the corresponding broken pin. It needs to be slightly longer than the socket hole - remember, when you 'lock' the socket, like set the pin down, the holes recess a bit, so what might be perfect length for a piece of wire, will be too short when you lock the CPU in place (just stick wire in that's obviously a fraction too long, lock the socket, and see if the wire is still long enough, and then cut to size). I find the best way to put wire into the socket holes, is to make it obviously long, like a mm too long (we're talking bits of wire about 1-2mm long), lock the socket, and then mash it in with a phillips head screwdriver.
The key is for the wire to NOT touch any other sockets, but if you mash the wire into the socket when it's locked, it should sort of circularize into the hole, to get a nice good contact. Kind of hard to explain, but basically have the wire like a 1/2 mm too long when the socket is locked into place, then mash it in with a phillips head screw driver, and you'll have a good contact that clearly won't touch any other pins. The motherboard socket pin slots sort of have a recess around where the CPU pins would go, so it fits in real nice.
You have nothing to lose. You want to use copper (or gold) wire because copper has good thermal conductivity and heat resistance, if you use something like aluminum wire it'll burn up. The perfect place to get copper wire like this is from an ethernet cable - you don't want to use thin strands, you want a thin wire, there's a difference. An RJ45 ethernet cable has something like 5 wires in it (or was it 7?), and each wire is made up of around... i forget, i want to say 11 but i know that isn't right, but it has around a half dozen copper wires making up each wire. That's what you want to use.
Theoretically gold wire would work too (the pins are made of gold, that's also why they bend so easily) but you aren't exactly going to have that laying around and well, if copper wire works, do what works.
Even if you straighten the pins, the CPU still likely won't go into socket as smoothly as a perfectly new CPU will, you might have to do some shifting. A great way to get an imperfect CPU into socket, is to just put in the smooth side of pins, or a corner of it. With a bit of nudging, you can get as many sides as you can until one side simply won't go in (ie, the bottom half will go in, and as you try to wiggle it in, it's very obvious there's bent pins in the middle of the cpu, or the top middle, or bottom middle), in which case you get back to straightening out those pins a bit better, and repeat.
THAT would be the cheapest solution. And it works, many people have done it. Can you post a picture of your CPU? I worked with a pretty extreme case of fucked up, but if all you have is some bent pins, that's an everyday problem that many people have encountered and fixed easily. Broken pins is what's a little more difficult.
Here's a great youtube video where someone fixes this kind of problem:
Here you'll find what's called a "pin layout". match up the graph, figure out which pins are the ones that are broken, and match it up to what the pin's function is. There are quite a few redundant and non-critical pins like grounds that you simply might not even need.
Thank you for your thorough response. None of the pins are broken and I messed with it for a bit last night and was unsuccessful. I tried several times, re-plug computer in, and it wouldn't start. There were around 10 pins bent every time I opened it back up. Ugghhh---very frustrating. I'm going to try tonight with a little more patience to see if I have better luck.
On December 07 2012 03:03 PandaUnderCover wrote: Ok so I don't know much about gaming but my Fiancé is a big gamer and i want to give him a new gaming keyboard and mouse but I don't really know wats good, can anybody help me out? I was gonna get him the Hoodie but $80 for 2 little icons on the corners..... Anyways what's recommended I buy him?
For keyboards, you have Filco, Leopold, Coolermaster Quick Fire, Corsair K60 (for FPS) / K90 (for MMO). There's a lot more options as well.
For mice, that depends on whether he uses a palm or claw grip.
Maybe you should just ask him?
I want it to be a surprise <.< so I don't want to ask him unless I sneak it in there that's why I'm asking here since Team Liquid is his homepage and I thought I'd get help here. The keyboards are great help thanks
EPT
