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United Kingdom20345 Posts
On March 24 2014 08:12 Spaylz wrote:Show nested quote +On March 24 2014 02:26 Cyro wrote:On March 23 2014 11:05 Spaylz wrote:Hey, So, I just built a computer using the Typical Professional build, but I have a couple of questions. I'd like to point out that I'm ordering everything from an excellent French website, as I'll be ordering from France. They put everything together for you and so on, so it's important that I order everything from them, since I'm not quite sure I could build it myself. Basically, I am missing two parts, but I found very, very close replacements to them. I am missing the RAM: G.Skill Ares 2x8GB 2400MHz, which I replaced with this (Corsair Vengeance Pro Gold DDR3 PC19200 CAS 11) Also, I couldn't find the exact same graphics card, and I got this one instead (EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked ACX Cooler 3GB). It seems to be the exact same thing, except no Ti? Do those differences matter at all, or will the setup be largely the same? Thanks in advance! RAM similar-ish, it might have bigger heatspreaders which you don't really want often as they can get in the way of some things (some cpu coolers etc) and serve no useful function 780ti is faster than 780, it has 25% more shaders/tmu's and about 10% higher memory bandwidth (so it's up to like ~25% faster depending on the workload if you match clocks, but probably more like 15) Hmm.. I see. Thanks for your answer. The website I'm using actually just added the G.Skill Extreme Ares 2x8GB, so I put them back in the mix. Regarding the GC, I'm considering the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti OC Windforce 3 - 3GB instead. From what I read, it's quite the beast, right? Regarding monitors... What's everyone's opinion on Iiyama ProLite? This one for instance. I think I am going to go for an IPS or 120MHz, most likely a midrange one.
You should definitely read up on strobe backlights if you're considering 120hz~ www.blurbusters.com ~ http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/
Yea, windforce cooler is quite good. Maybe not the best, i'm not really sure there - TBH it's quite hard to go wrong with the custom cooled 780/780ti designs, it's not like r9 290's where tri-x stands out as the best cooler and there's some stupid stuff like Asus having heatpipes in the design that don't even make contact with the GPU and just waste space and cooling area
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On March 24 2014 08:20 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On March 24 2014 08:12 Spaylz wrote:On March 24 2014 02:26 Cyro wrote:On March 23 2014 11:05 Spaylz wrote:Hey, So, I just built a computer using the Typical Professional build, but I have a couple of questions. I'd like to point out that I'm ordering everything from an excellent French website, as I'll be ordering from France. They put everything together for you and so on, so it's important that I order everything from them, since I'm not quite sure I could build it myself. Basically, I am missing two parts, but I found very, very close replacements to them. I am missing the RAM: G.Skill Ares 2x8GB 2400MHz, which I replaced with this (Corsair Vengeance Pro Gold DDR3 PC19200 CAS 11) Also, I couldn't find the exact same graphics card, and I got this one instead (EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked ACX Cooler 3GB). It seems to be the exact same thing, except no Ti? Do those differences matter at all, or will the setup be largely the same? Thanks in advance! RAM similar-ish, it might have bigger heatspreaders which you don't really want often as they can get in the way of some things (some cpu coolers etc) and serve no useful function 780ti is faster than 780, it has 25% more shaders/tmu's and about 10% higher memory bandwidth (so it's up to like ~25% faster depending on the workload if you match clocks, but probably more like 15) Hmm.. I see. Thanks for your answer. The website I'm using actually just added the G.Skill Extreme Ares 2x8GB, so I put them back in the mix. Regarding the GC, I'm considering the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti OC Windforce 3 - 3GB instead. From what I read, it's quite the beast, right? Regarding monitors... What's everyone's opinion on Iiyama ProLite? This one for instance. I think I am going to go for an IPS or 120MHz, most likely a midrange one. You should definitely read up on strobe backlights if you're considering 120hz~ www.blurbusters.com ~ http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/Yea, windforce cooler is quite good. Maybe not the best, i'm not really sure there - TBH it's quite hard to go wrong with the custom cooled 780/780ti designs, it's not like r9 290's where tri-x stands out as the best cooler and there's some stupid stuff like Asus having heatpipes in the design that don't even make contact with the GPU and just waste space and cooling area
Got it. Thanks.
I'm thinking about the ASUS VG248QE... I'm really looking at a lot of options to be honest, I'm just so indecisive about it all. By the way, I should mention that right now, I'm using a laptop (Medion ERAZER X7817), and I'm quite happy with the screen, even though I'm sure it wouldn't compare to an IPS or 120 MHz at all. Also, I'm using F.lux on the screen, to max settings. I have mild coloboma, which still makes me quite sensitive to light. Probably should have mentioned that in the beginning too, as I imagine using f.lux on max settings might mean that I wouldn't benefit from everything in a mid to good monitor.
For the video card, I like the windforce. But I was also looking at AMD, and the R9 290X OC Tri-X looks good. It seems similar to the 780 Ti, but it's 150€ less than the Windforce OC 3GB. I'm tempted to go with that too, I don't know that I would notice a huge difference.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
On March 25 2014 13:13 Spaylz wrote:Show nested quote +On March 24 2014 08:20 Cyro wrote:On March 24 2014 08:12 Spaylz wrote:On March 24 2014 02:26 Cyro wrote:On March 23 2014 11:05 Spaylz wrote:Hey, So, I just built a computer using the Typical Professional build, but I have a couple of questions. I'd like to point out that I'm ordering everything from an excellent French website, as I'll be ordering from France. They put everything together for you and so on, so it's important that I order everything from them, since I'm not quite sure I could build it myself. Basically, I am missing two parts, but I found very, very close replacements to them. I am missing the RAM: G.Skill Ares 2x8GB 2400MHz, which I replaced with this (Corsair Vengeance Pro Gold DDR3 PC19200 CAS 11) Also, I couldn't find the exact same graphics card, and I got this one instead (EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Superclocked ACX Cooler 3GB). It seems to be the exact same thing, except no Ti? Do those differences matter at all, or will the setup be largely the same? Thanks in advance! RAM similar-ish, it might have bigger heatspreaders which you don't really want often as they can get in the way of some things (some cpu coolers etc) and serve no useful function 780ti is faster than 780, it has 25% more shaders/tmu's and about 10% higher memory bandwidth (so it's up to like ~25% faster depending on the workload if you match clocks, but probably more like 15) Hmm.. I see. Thanks for your answer. The website I'm using actually just added the G.Skill Extreme Ares 2x8GB, so I put them back in the mix. Regarding the GC, I'm considering the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti OC Windforce 3 - 3GB instead. From what I read, it's quite the beast, right? Regarding monitors... What's everyone's opinion on Iiyama ProLite? This one for instance. I think I am going to go for an IPS or 120MHz, most likely a midrange one. You should definitely read up on strobe backlights if you're considering 120hz~ www.blurbusters.com ~ http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/60vs120vslb/Yea, windforce cooler is quite good. Maybe not the best, i'm not really sure there - TBH it's quite hard to go wrong with the custom cooled 780/780ti designs, it's not like r9 290's where tri-x stands out as the best cooler and there's some stupid stuff like Asus having heatpipes in the design that don't even make contact with the GPU and just waste space and cooling area Got it. Thanks. I'm thinking about the ASUS VG248QE... I'm really looking at a lot of options to be honest, I'm just so indecisive about it all. By the way, I should mention that right now, I'm using a laptop (Medion ERAZER X7817), and I'm quite happy with the screen, even though I'm sure it wouldn't compare to an IPS or 120 MHz at all. Also, I'm using F.lux on the screen, to max settings. I have mild coloboma, which still makes me quite sensitive to light. Probably should have mentioned that in the beginning too, as I imagine using f.lux on max settings might mean that I wouldn't benefit from everything in a mid to good monitor. For the video card, I like the windforce. But I was also looking at AMD, and the R9 290X OC Tri-X looks good. It seems similar to the 780 Ti, but it's 150€ less than the Windforce OC 3GB. I'm tempted to go with that too, I don't know that I would notice a huge difference.
The 780ti is better than the 780, 290 and 290x for 1080p. The 780 to 780ti is actually quite a big gap, while a 290 and 290x, if ran at the same clocks, only perform about 3% differently. The 290 being underclocked relative to 290x at factory settings is most of the reason they appear to perform notably differently, but that's not really relevant if you can take half an hour to learn the basics and set clocks yourself, or even if using a factory OC version(?)
If you're buying an AMD card, there is definitely very little reason for a 290x unless you specifically want the absolute fastest radeon card without taking value into account, because they cost far too much more than the 290
Color accuracy etc would be destroyed by flux, if you have issues then you might be sensitive to flicker (crt monitors, strobe backlight) so you could have issues there too. Strobe backlight isn't the only reason for those TN monitors, though. It wasn't even really a thing until somewhat recently
vg248qe will be obsolete in a quarter or two though, newer benq z-series stuff with firmware 2(?) are arguably better and we're getting the wave of g-sync/ULMB(strobe) ~120hz monitors
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A lot of the LightBoost monitors get bluer when strobing (also darker, lower contrast), which is a color shift in the opposite direction as f.lux.
Also, something with high minimum brightness could possibly not be a great idea? Lowest setting on most computer monitors is quite a bit higher than the low settings on laptops, for reference. Now that I think about it, I don't think I've ever seen a review for a 120+ Hz monitor that went lower than 90 cd / m^2 or so, not that I've read more than say five of them or so.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
I think they go significantly lower than that (like 50) with a low strobe duration.. but that's strobing, not really the same as constant low brightness (though it visibly appears the same, it's hardly true for stuff that causes eye/head issues etc)
A lot of the LightBoost monitors get bluer when strobing (also darker, lower contrast), which is a color shift in the opposite direction as f.lux.
From what i've heard it's not really a problem (or at least nearly as much) with ULMB and benq blur reduction (strobe variants) which is part of why vg248qe will be pretty much obsolete~
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On March 24 2014 02:26 Cyro wrote:
Color accuracy etc would be destroyed by flux, if you have issues then you might be sensitive to flicker (crt monitors, strobe backlight) so you could have issues there too. Strobe backlight isn't the only reason for those TN monitors, though. It wasn't even really a thing until somewhat recently
vg248qe will be obsolete in a quarter or two though, newer benq z-series stuff with firmware 2(?) are arguably better and we're getting the wave of g-sync/ULMB(strobe) ~120hz monitors
I'll try to explain without giving my whole life story.
Basically, my pupils do not dilate, and are not round. As a result, my eyes take in way more light than normal people, causing actual pain when a light is too bright. It's not horrible crippling pain by any means, but it does hurt, and it's sensitive. Even the reflection of the sun shining relatively brightly on a clear-colored wooden table is enough to do the trick.
So, ever since I discovered f.lux, I use it profusely, and turn it on with max settings, as it dims the screen a lot and helps my eyes considerably. Like I said I probably should have mentioned it earlier. The settings I require are probably very dim (I know I don't realize it anymore, but my girlfriend thought my laptop screen was unbelievable dim to the point that it bothered her viewing) and so I feel that I might not benefit from IPS, 120Hz or strobing because I would need the image to be significantly dimmer, sort of ruining the purpose of having bright and sharp colors.
If you said the color would be ruined, and I might have issues with flicker, I think I'm probably better off just getting a TN without any fancy technology. What do you think?
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On March 25 2014 21:18 Spaylz wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On March 24 2014 02:26 Cyro wrote:
Color accuracy etc would be destroyed by flux, if you have issues then you might be sensitive to flicker (crt monitors, strobe backlight) so you could have issues there too. Strobe backlight isn't the only reason for those TN monitors, though. It wasn't even really a thing until somewhat recently
vg248qe will be obsolete in a quarter or two though, newer benq z-series stuff with firmware 2(?) are arguably better and we're getting the wave of g-sync/ULMB(strobe) ~120hz monitors
I'll try to explain without giving my whole life story. Basically, my pupils do not dilate, and are not round. As a result, my eyes take in way more light than normal people, causing actual pain when a light is too bright. It's not horrible crippling pain by any means, but it does hurt, and it's sensitive. Even the reflection of the sun shining relatively brightly on a clear-colored wooden table is enough to do the trick. So, ever since I discovered f.lux, I use it profusely, and turn it on with max settings, as it dims the screen a lot and helps my eyes considerably. Like I said I probably should have mentioned it earlier. The settings I require are probably very dim (I know I don't realize it anymore, but my girlfriend thought my laptop screen was unbelievable dim to the point that it bothered her viewing) and so I feel that I might not benefit from IPS, 120Hz or strobing because I would need the image to be significantly dimmer, sort of ruining the purpose of having bright and sharp colors. If you said the color would be ruined, and I might have issues with flicker, I think I'm probably better off just getting a TN without any fancy technology. What do you think?
Backlight brightness is (theoretically, and in actual practice can be generally true) independent of panel technology, color quality, refresh rates, etc.
You can (theoretically) get IPS, 144Hz TN, VA, whatever - all with a backlight that dims very low. Just read reviews on TFTCentral and Prad. I'm sure you'll find a monitor that goes under ~50 cd/m^2 and still has decent image quality (Since you're so sensitive, I'd definitely look for monitors that dim that low or even more; contrast and colors and etc. should remain good even at minimum brightness).
One good example would be the Eizo FS2333 (and it's actually a great all-round monitor and well built, just kinda 'expensive' though my personal opinion, not really for the quality):
http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/review/2012/review-eizo-foris-fs2333-bk-part6.html#Luminance
Goes down to basically near black (ignore their poor contrast measurements between 0 and 10%, their instrument isn't accurate at that point).
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How's f.lux work, anyway? Is it actually messing up the image other than color temperature? If it's just taking input color values, doing LUT or calculation for a transformation, and showing the transformed values, it shouldn't really be more off than the monitor was to begin with, other than the color temperature (unless I'm missing something). i.e. you get effectively some loss of contrast and brightness as most colors have values changed downwards but color gradations and gamma should be mostly fine?
As an alternative that might possibly be easier to find, there's the more recent Dell U2414H (~32 cd / m^2). I don't know of others off the top of my head, and those with very low ranges might be more professional monitors anyway that are expensive and have processing delays.
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The Dell U2414H looks nice. It's not THAT expensive, I could see myself going for it.
I actually have no clue as to how f.lux works, I just know that I've been using it and needing for the past 5 years or so, even on my old desktop. So, with a screen like the U2414H, I would (theoretically) not need f.lux? I have to say I'm a little skeptical. Typically, what is normal and not bright for you guys is bright for me.
I feel like I'd have to test out the screen in actuality before buying them, which might be tough.
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Wait, wait, wait.
The feature everybody associates with f.lux is the nighttime color adjustment to redder hues (which is done by turning the other colors down), simulating typical home lighting. However, I think it can also kind of do brightness control?
Which part are you using, and what do you mean by "max settings"? If color temp, what Kelvin?
Does your laptop have brightness control on its own? If you're using f.lux for brightness control, is it with laptop already at minimum setting if it has one?
edit: I'd assumed you were talking about color temperature and that you'd obviously still be using it with any monitor.
edit2: How bright is the room, anyway? Bulb ratings and general size of room would give a reasonable ballpark approximation.
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It's in Kelvin. I'd say it's the color temperature? Though it says lightning, but f.lux's support page speaks of color temperature, in Kelvin.
Also, when I say "max", I actually mean "lowest" (it's just the max for me since it's the max possible dimness, if that makes sense). The setting is 2700K at all times. My screen basically has a orangeish teint to it, not white. I'm sure I could increase it a little, but I honestly like this setting. Any web page or computer page that's actually full-on white is too bright for me. It tires my eyes very quickly.
About the room, I'm not quite sure. I can't tell the bulb rating, as it's a lamp and it's screwed to the ceiling with paint over the screws. The room though has a really big window, which is basically covered by the blinds at all times, otherwise it's too bright when I look at it.
Yes, I live in darkness.
I'm kidding obviously, but I do generally avoid bright lights everywhere. It doesn't even have to be sunny out for the weather to be too bright for me, it still hurts my eyes. I've grown very used to it, but it still shocks some people.
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Okay, a monitor over 50 cd / m^2 is totally out of the question then. You could get others to show dimmer by setting contrast down, but that sucks.
Maybe a monitor that doesn't do PWM-controlled backlighting might help too. The Eizo FS2333 uses it; the Dell U2414H does not. The cheaper but similar Dell P2414H is similar but with different inputs, larger bezel, worse factory calibration out of box, and somewhat higher minimum brightness. Motion performance on these is in the "eh" range in the grand scheme of things, but that's about as good as most laptop screens or quite possibly better.
In fact, you might still have to nuke brightness via contrast, but definitely not as much here as with U2414H. Unless somebody can think of something else, I'd go with that. Something that dim and without PWM is somewhat uncommon, and it's a decent all-rounder IPS anyway.
edit: if you do get it, I'd be curious to hear what you think of it. For reference:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/dell_u2414h.htm#contrast_stability
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The Dell P2414 seems harder to order from Europe.
There is a French portal of the Eizo website, and it is possible to buy the FS2333 for €325 there. I might go for it. I'm returning to France on April 27th, so perhaps around that. I'll keep a close eye on it though. If anybody has other suggestions, I'm open.
Just for the record, I tried to mess with f.lux, and put it to 3000K. It seems good, not as "orange", but I don't really dare to go any higher, as I can feel it being bothersome.
I guess I'm fairly restricted in my choices due to my condition.
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Yo, so catleap q270 vesa mount. I can see it underneath this stupid silver arc thing on the back. I guess options for exposing it are either sawing or cracking open the back of the monitor.
I found this guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club
Any other resources for exposing the vesa mount before I potentially break it? :p
(also it's 75mm mount? looks like, but it's a bit cramped on my tape measure back there)
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So I've recently been drooling over some new monitors after getting a new desktop about a month ago, and I'm looking for some advice.
Basically I want either 1080p/120hz+ or 1440p/120hz+. Since I also want a matte panel, the BenQ XL2420 seems like a good option. However ASUS also announced a sweet new 1440p/120hz screen, that has a whole bunch of stuff built in. Now I was wondering if my system with an R9 290 can make use of "built in gsync". I know I won't be able to use for example lightboost, but considering the fact that they call it built in, this might be different I figured.
Opinions?
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G-SYNC is exclusive to NVIDIA cards.
I think what they mean by "built in G-SYNC" is that this is one of the first monitors to natively support it since in the past you had to essentially install a mod kit.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
Gsync monitors require nvidia card
you MIGHT be able to strobe with 120hz on ROG swift using a 290. MIGHT - because it's not hacked lightboost etc used for strobing (which radeons could do, i think) but actually branded ULMB and part of the nvidia/gsync package
You might want a BenQ Z-series 1080p, as they have their own, adjustable even, "benq blur reduction" strobing @120hz. You can ask for more info in the 120hz/lightboost thread on www.overclock.net if you want more specialized knowledge
If you want a ROG swift, you probably also want to flip 290 and grab a 780/780ti/big maxwell
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Thanks Cyro and Versita!
I think I'll go for the BenQ Z-series, save myself a bunch of money and probably get a similar improvement over my current monitors. Sucks that the colors are apparentely shit on the BenQ Z series, but I guess thats not what I'm buying it for 
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On April 15 2014 15:33 phar wrote:Yo, so catleap q270 vesa mount. I can see it underneath this stupid silver arc thing on the back. I guess options for exposing it are either sawing or cracking open the back of the monitor. I found this guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-clubAny other resources for exposing the vesa mount before I potentially break it? :p (also it's 75mm mount? looks like, but it's a bit cramped on my tape measure back there)
Just some followup here:
1) Guide is sufficient for dis-assembly. It doesn't quite stress how fragile one of the three internal cables is - have to be very careful with it, bent pins can cause headache.
2) It is a 75mm on the back.
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ABT to buying new one...
WASABI MANGO QHD275 dual HDMI it seems good to me
i think new korean manufacturer anyone heard abt it??
btw very few info and reviews..
need some advise!!!!
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EPT
