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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
About the graphics card situation, maybe you should just wait for a second opinion.
For those kinds of purposes, SSD speed past a certain point doesn't really matter. Everything is pretty much in the same realm of "really fast." The previous-gen yet plenty fast Samsung 470 128GB is $210, and it doesn't seem to have any performance or reliability quirks that I've heard of so far:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147063
Absolute fastest at around that capacity range is the OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS, which is actually just $265. However, there seem to be issues (again) with the 2nd generation of SandForce-based SSDs like that one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227714
That's probably more capacity than you need, but it's hard to say when you might want more space. Maybe an Intel 320 80GB is worth a look too. It depends on the size of that steam library and those games.
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@Myrmidon
Thats an idea. I'll back up my files that I should have archived a while ago anyway, and see roughly how much space I'm using for just my essential programs/games/OS
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Ok, I'm confused how should I be applying my thermal paste? I'm trying to set up a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with an Intel i5 2500K. Any help appreciated.
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@Samiamquinn
If you look at the bottom of your CoolerMaster, you have the copper pipes that come together to form a 'plate'. That plate will be against your processor with one of the brackets that came with your cooler. To get a better understanding, dry fit the two to see how it goes.
After that, depending on what thermal paste you're using, you use different amounts. If you're using a paste like arctic silver, you want a couple (2) small pea-sized application right in the middle of each pipe and ultimately you want it spread all the way across the processor to cover it in a thin layer. Couple different ways to do that, one that works well enough is with a business card, or you could press your cooler down gently and turn it to smear, but the card way usually works better in my opinion for full coverage.
There are plenty of ways to apply it, and if you're really concerned, you can check out youtube for people showing you how.
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On July 14 2011 10:32 Magnakor wrote:
@Samiamquinn
If you look at the bottom of your CoolerMaster, you have the copper pipes that come together to form a 'plate'. That plate will be against your processor with one of the brackets that came with your cooler. To get a better understanding, dry fit the two to see how it goes.
After that, depending on what thermal paste you're using, you use different amounts. If you're using a paste like arctic silver, you want a couple (2) small pea-sized application right in the middle of each pipe and ultimately you want it spread all the way across the processor to cover it in a thin layer. Couple different ways to do that, one that works well enough is with a business card, or you could press your cooler down gently and turn it to smear, but the card way usually works better in my opinion for full coverage.
There are plenty of ways to apply it, and if you're really concerned, you can check out youtube for people showing you how.
That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer.
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On July 14 2011 10:37 JingleHell wrote:
That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer.
I realized that right after I posted that it was a DTH cooler.
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On July 14 2011 10:41 Magnakor wrote:Show nested quote +On July 14 2011 10:37 JingleHell wrote:
That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer. I realized that right after I posted that it was a DTH cooler.
I basically never tell anyone to spread it manually, because even though there are ways to do it better than just steady pressure, most of the people with the means, patience, and need to go about getting it that perfect aren't asking how to go about the process here. The steady pressure method is the easiest of the definitely good enough ways, so I consider it ideal for here.
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Spent 3 hours trolled by a Cooler Master Elite 360 Slim case. Thank God it worked in the end. Avoid the case at all costs unless you're on a really horrid budget, ~$400 and even then, research a lot! My friend wanted something small, and it was the only thing that fit the bill. I won't make the same mistake again... I think I did well with not knowing what the case was... everything barely fit.
Computer didn't boot, so reseated everything and it booted. Had the most random BIOS beeping ever as well. 3 short, 1 long, 1 short, 1 long. I don't even. And then the computer booted without any problems.
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Maybe the BIOS uses Morse code instead of Beep code?
Sorry, bad joke.
I tend to avoid anything in a funky form factor unless I have an actual need for it, just because it makes for complications and swear words. I'll definitely keep that particular negativity in mind though.
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On July 14 2011 10:55 JingleHell wrote:
Maybe the BIOS uses Morse code instead of Beep code?
Sorry, bad joke.
I tend to avoid anything in a funky form factor unless I have an actual need for it, just because it makes for complications and swear words. I'll definitely keep that particular negativity in mind though.
I honestly thought it'd be just a smaller midtower. Never researched it and my friend didn't like and couldn't fit the case I had, so we looked up one on the spot. Should've knew something was up when I saw the vertical drive bays in the front. They never included any more pictures of it too in the catalog...
I was able to get my HD6850 to fit ONLY because its power input things were on the side, and not the back. AND also only because they included TWO 6 pin to molex adapters instead of one, since the normal 6 pin cable from the power supply is too bulky. The side panel is in the way. Pick your poison with dedicated graphics, getting blocked by the power supply or the side panel.
-.-
Shouldn't hate it too much since it's simply a lack of research on my part.
AHHH, should've waited til today, though none of them is in my budget still.
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On July 14 2011 08:31 skyR wrote:
The core i5 2500 has limited overclocking so there's really little point in purchasing a P67 motherboard with it when a H61 or H67 motherboard costs much less.
1600MHz provides little to no benefits over 1333MHz as I previously mentioned.
620w is unnecessary.
thanks for the advice : )
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that wasnt my question
if you look @ my links they are both home professional both 64 bit both oem but 2 different prices.
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SP1 on the disc vs not on the disc. Saves some patching. If you don't have a bandwidth cap and have reasonable DL speeds, save the money.
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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH
hahahahahah sorry for yelling @ you skyr
why would I pay 20 more dollars when I can just download SP1 from home... lol
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Well your link was originally broken and you specified home professional when your link was a home premium. I assumed it was a typo? The difference between the two home premium discs is SP1 which was mentioned by Jingle.
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I mentioned the reasons people might want it. Besides, it's OEM. They push those discs for the OEMs, and the old ones without the SP suddenly turn into a clearance type item.
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so you would recommend the $80 if I need 64 bit windows 7 and I have good internet
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EPT
