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Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 415

Forum Index > Tech Support
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
July 14 2011 00:28 GMT
#8281
About the graphics card situation, maybe you should just wait for a second opinion.

For those kinds of purposes, SSD speed past a certain point doesn't really matter. Everything is pretty much in the same realm of "really fast." The previous-gen yet plenty fast Samsung 470 128GB is $210, and it doesn't seem to have any performance or reliability quirks that I've heard of so far:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147063

Absolute fastest at around that capacity range is the OCZ Vertex 3 Max IOPS, which is actually just $265. However, there seem to be issues (again) with the 2nd generation of SandForce-based SSDs like that one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227714

That's probably more capacity than you need, but it's hard to say when you might want more space. Maybe an Intel 320 80GB is worth a look too. It depends on the size of that steam library and those games.
Magnakor
Profile Joined July 2011
5 Posts
July 14 2011 00:42 GMT
#8282
@Myrmidon

Thats an idea. I'll back up my files that I should have archived a while ago anyway, and see roughly how much space I'm using for just my essential programs/games/OS
samiamquinn
Profile Joined April 2011
Australia137 Posts
July 14 2011 01:21 GMT
#8283
Ok, I'm confused how should I be applying my thermal paste? I'm trying to set up a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with an Intel i5 2500K. Any help appreciated.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
July 14 2011 01:28 GMT
#8284
On July 14 2011 10:21 samiamquinn wrote:
Ok, I'm confused how should I be applying my thermal paste? I'm trying to set up a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with an Intel i5 2500K. Any help appreciated.


For heatpipe direct touch-style coolers like the Hyper 212+, it's best to use a thin line of paste (not too much) on each of the channels between the heatpipes.

Like this, at the bottom:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5

Magnakor
Profile Joined July 2011
5 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-14 01:34:09
July 14 2011 01:32 GMT
#8285
@Samiamquinn

If you look at the bottom of your CoolerMaster, you have the copper pipes that come together to form a 'plate'. That plate will be against your processor with one of the brackets that came with your cooler. To get a better understanding, dry fit the two to see how it goes.

After that, depending on what thermal paste you're using, you use different amounts. If you're using a paste like arctic silver, you want a couple (2) small pea-sized application right in the middle of each pipe and ultimately you want it spread all the way across the processor to cover it in a thin layer. Couple different ways to do that, one that works well enough is with a business card, or you could press your cooler down gently and turn it to smear, but the card way usually works better in my opinion for full coverage.

There are plenty of ways to apply it, and if you're really concerned, you can check out youtube for people showing you how.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
July 14 2011 01:37 GMT
#8286
On July 14 2011 10:32 Magnakor wrote:
@Samiamquinn

If you look at the bottom of your CoolerMaster, you have the copper pipes that come together to form a 'plate'. That plate will be against your processor with one of the brackets that came with your cooler. To get a better understanding, dry fit the two to see how it goes.

After that, depending on what thermal paste you're using, you use different amounts. If you're using a paste like arctic silver, you want a couple (2) small pea-sized application right in the middle of each pipe and ultimately you want it spread all the way across the processor to cover it in a thin layer. Couple different ways to do that, one that works well enough is with a business card, or you could press your cooler down gently and turn it to smear, but the card way usually works better in my opinion for full coverage.

There are plenty of ways to apply it, and if you're really concerned, you can check out youtube for people showing you how.


That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer.
Magnakor
Profile Joined July 2011
5 Posts
July 14 2011 01:41 GMT
#8287
On July 14 2011 10:37 JingleHell wrote:

That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer.


I realized that right after I posted that it was a DTH cooler.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
July 14 2011 01:46 GMT
#8288
On July 14 2011 10:41 Magnakor wrote:
Show nested quote +
On July 14 2011 10:37 JingleHell wrote:

That's the wrong way for Direct touch Heatpipes, and you need a really thin paste to be able to manually spread it effectively. It's pretty much guaranteed that you'll do better just applying even pressure, unless you happen to have a prosthetic eye with a built in micrometer.


I realized that right after I posted that it was a DTH cooler.


I basically never tell anyone to spread it manually, because even though there are ways to do it better than just steady pressure, most of the people with the means, patience, and need to go about getting it that perfect aren't asking how to go about the process here. The steady pressure method is the easiest of the definitely good enough ways, so I consider it ideal for here.
Blisse
Profile Blog Joined July 2010
Canada3710 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-14 01:54:36
July 14 2011 01:52 GMT
#8289
Spent 3 hours trolled by a Cooler Master Elite 360 Slim case. Thank God it worked in the end. Avoid the case at all costs unless you're on a really horrid budget, ~$400 and even then, research a lot! My friend wanted something small, and it was the only thing that fit the bill. I won't make the same mistake again... I think I did well with not knowing what the case was... everything barely fit.


Computer didn't boot, so reseated everything and it booted. Had the most random BIOS beeping ever as well. 3 short, 1 long, 1 short, 1 long. I don't even. And then the computer booted without any problems.
There is no one like you in the universe.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
July 14 2011 01:55 GMT
#8290
Maybe the BIOS uses Morse code instead of Beep code?

Sorry, bad joke.

I tend to avoid anything in a funky form factor unless I have an actual need for it, just because it makes for complications and swear words. I'll definitely keep that particular negativity in mind though.
Blisse
Profile Blog Joined July 2010
Canada3710 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-14 03:13:27
July 14 2011 02:02 GMT
#8291
On July 14 2011 10:55 JingleHell wrote:
Maybe the BIOS uses Morse code instead of Beep code?

Sorry, bad joke.

I tend to avoid anything in a funky form factor unless I have an actual need for it, just because it makes for complications and swear words. I'll definitely keep that particular negativity in mind though.


I honestly thought it'd be just a smaller midtower. Never researched it and my friend didn't like and couldn't fit the case I had, so we looked up one on the spot. Should've knew something was up when I saw the vertical drive bays in the front. They never included any more pictures of it too in the catalog...

I was able to get my HD6850 to fit ONLY because its power input things were on the side, and not the back. AND also only because they included TWO 6 pin to molex adapters instead of one, since the normal 6 pin cable from the power supply is too bulky. The side panel is in the way. Pick your poison with dedicated graphics, getting blocked by the power supply or the side panel.

-.-

Shouldn't hate it too much since it's simply a lack of research on my part.


On July 14 2011 12:00 skyR wrote:
NCIX has a very nice sale this week -.^ Better get purchasing before all these sell out.

8GB for $50: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57869&promoid=1337
Fractal Design R3 & Noctua for $100: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=62618&promoid=1337
2500k and free shipping for entire order for $200: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57962&promoid=1337
GTX 570 for $250 after mail in rebate: http://ncix.com/products/?sku=57383&promoid=1337

2TB for $63, 6950 for $200, GTX 560 Ti for $200... Extremely jealous of those building right now...



AHHH, should've waited til today, though none of them is in my budget still.
There is no one like you in the universe.
L3g3nd_
Profile Joined July 2010
New Zealand10461 Posts
July 14 2011 04:38 GMT
#8292
On July 14 2011 08:31 skyR wrote:
The core i5 2500 has limited overclocking so there's really little point in purchasing a P67 motherboard with it when a H61 or H67 motherboard costs much less.

1600MHz provides little to no benefits over 1333MHz as I previously mentioned.

620w is unnecessary.

thanks for the advice : )
https://twitter.com/#!/IrisAnother
troynewell47
Profile Joined July 2011
19 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-14 04:53:51
July 14 2011 04:53 GMT
#8293
Ok so I was looking on Frys and when I went to windows 7 looking for the OEM version 64 bit home professional came up

http://www.frys.com/product/6028088

then i thought cool only 80 bucks

but then i found this other windows 7 oem 64 bit home professional for $100

http://www.frys.com/product/6587543?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

what is the difference and what one should I get ?
skyR
Profile Joined July 2009
Canada13817 Posts
July 14 2011 04:54 GMT
#8294
The differences between the different editions: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-CA/windows7/products/compare
troynewell47
Profile Joined July 2011
19 Posts
July 14 2011 04:56 GMT
#8295
that wasnt my question

if you look @ my links they are both home professional both 64 bit both oem but 2 different prices.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
July 14 2011 04:56 GMT
#8296
On July 14 2011 13:53 troynewell47 wrote:
Ok so I was looking on Frys and when I went to windows 7 looking for the OEM version 64 bit home professional came up

http://www.frys.com/product/6028088

then i thought cool only 80 bucks

but then i found this other windows 7 oem 64 bit home professional for $100

http://www.frys.com/product/6587543?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

what is the difference and what one should I get ?


SP1 on the disc vs not on the disc. Saves some patching. If you don't have a bandwidth cap and have reasonable DL speeds, save the money.
troynewell47
Profile Joined July 2011
19 Posts
July 14 2011 04:58 GMT
#8297
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH

hahahahahah sorry for yelling @ you skyr

why would I pay 20 more dollars when I can just download SP1 from home... lol
skyR
Profile Joined July 2009
Canada13817 Posts
July 14 2011 04:58 GMT
#8298
Well your link was originally broken and you specified home professional when your link was a home premium. I assumed it was a typo? The difference between the two home premium discs is SP1 which was mentioned by Jingle.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-07-14 04:59:46
July 14 2011 04:59 GMT
#8299
I mentioned the reasons people might want it. Besides, it's OEM. They push those discs for the OEMs, and the old ones without the SP suddenly turn into a clearance type item.
troynewell47
Profile Joined July 2011
19 Posts
July 14 2011 05:03 GMT
#8300
so you would recommend the $80 if I need 64 bit windows 7 and I have good internet
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