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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On May 03 2012 17:53 skyR wrote:The hyperthreading of a 3770k will help with streaming but will basically be useless for gaming since most games these days still only use two cores. So you may want to get a 3570k instead but if you don't care than okay the 3770k is fine. The combo you posted for the GD65 and 3770k is $508 after mail in rebate. I'm not sure if you are including mail in rebates in your total or just don't know what they are? Mail in rebates aren't an instant discount - a form has to be filled out, mailed, approved, processed, and mailed back to you in the form of a cheque or prepaid credit card. This process usually takes a few months, assuming you followed the instructions correctly, the company doesn't deny / reject it, and it doesn't get lost in the mail - if any of that happens than goodbye money. The combo is $528 at checkout. Not really much of a deal to be had. Crucial M4 128gb is $125, easily fits into your budget: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018 Really, you shouldn't be getting a 64gb SSD these days with this kind of budget. Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and has ridiculously tall heatspreaders that won't clear a lot of tower heatsinks. There are tons of other options available for $30-$40. A GTX 560 Ti for $250 is overpriced. A Radeon HD7850 is the same price and an overall better card. If you want to remain with Nvidia for whatever reason, GTX 560 Ti can be had for less. ASUS DirectCu II @ $235: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64376&promoid=1018 , Gigabyte Windforce @ $220: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58366&promoid=1018 , EVGA @ $230: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623A full tower case is not necessary. A 750w unit is not necessary and the High Current Gamer isn't a good choice either. 650w is plenty of power for SLI and overclocking every component. Rosewill Capstone is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182073 The 650w variant is OOS atm. There are of course other options that are better / equal for less such as the Antec Earthwatts for $100 ($85 after promo code IVYPSU15, ends 5/5) with a $20 mail in rebate, which is basically the same thing as the HCG - just with different branding: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051You're also missing a heatsink for overclocking.
Thanks for the feedback, obviously waiting so long for an upgrade has made me look like an idiot, so I'm glad I'm getting some advice. As far as the rebates and such, I was factoring those in, I've for the most part had no problems with mail-in rebate, but I understand the caution.
Apparently I'm a sucker for bundles, but I found a bundle with a 3570k that doesn't seem to bad. 3570k + msi z77a-g45
$379 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71291&vpn=Z77A-G45 & 3570K&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1018
Taking your advice on the SSD
$125 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018
Found some cheaper RAM
$40 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin Enhanced&promoid=1368
I've had terrible problems with all of my Radeon cards in the past, and was looking to go nvidia, but after comparing price and performance it does seem silly to go with the 560
$250 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986
Apparently I linked the wrong case, as I was actually looking at the mid-tower version of this case
$90 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTERhttp://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER
Will probably go with the EarthWatts
$80 (w/ mail-in) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051
Forgot the heatsink
$60 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=46802
Total: $1024
So first question, updated build look a better? I'd assume so since it's mostly your recommendations, but worth asking for feedback considering a follow-up question:
Should I take the $200 I'd have left in my budget to match my main monitor? Currently my setup is a 24" widescreen ASUS with a 19" Syncmaster as a secondary, but found my montior without the webcam for $190 http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VW246H-24-Inch-LCD-Monitor/dp/B001LYWBOM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336067441&sr=8-1-fkmr1. It'll be more aesthetically pleasing to me, so if I was to get a second monitor at this point I'd want to match it.
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Weeeeell, rig is completly build and so far running fine. currently testing with prime max heat and getting ~57° max temps.
so far so good.will test gpu in games i guess.
but i have a few problems still:
1. my dvd drive doesnt work. it gets recognized and all but it doesnt read any dvds. i just keeps trying and after a while tells me there is no disc in there. i already tried different sata ports and cables but nothing changed anything.
had to dl the mobos ethernet driver on ages old laptop and install it with a stick then dl all other drivers. zero clue what could be the problem here.
2. for whatever reason windows doesnt recognize one of my partitions of my old hdd. the big 2 work fine, the ooold system one that i cleared just isnt there in windows. even more weird is that it showed up fine during the win7 installation.
again im quite clueless since ive never ever had just a part of a hdd disappear on me.
ignore that. just had to give it a driver letter, seems to work fine now <.<
3. unrelated somewhat but why is the option to just put in my firefox sync key not there anymore? it just asks me for the code from the other device, usually i could select that i dont have it with me and just enter the sync key.
and side question, i guess msi afterburner works with my gigabyte 560 ti 448? cause on first look the gigabyte tool is way worse .
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On May 04 2012 02:56 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 03 2012 17:53 skyR wrote:The hyperthreading of a 3770k will help with streaming but will basically be useless for gaming since most games these days still only use two cores. So you may want to get a 3570k instead but if you don't care than okay the 3770k is fine. The combo you posted for the GD65 and 3770k is $508 after mail in rebate. I'm not sure if you are including mail in rebates in your total or just don't know what they are? Mail in rebates aren't an instant discount - a form has to be filled out, mailed, approved, processed, and mailed back to you in the form of a cheque or prepaid credit card. This process usually takes a few months, assuming you followed the instructions correctly, the company doesn't deny / reject it, and it doesn't get lost in the mail - if any of that happens than goodbye money. The combo is $528 at checkout. Not really much of a deal to be had. Crucial M4 128gb is $125, easily fits into your budget: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018 Really, you shouldn't be getting a 64gb SSD these days with this kind of budget. Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and has ridiculously tall heatspreaders that won't clear a lot of tower heatsinks. There are tons of other options available for $30-$40. A GTX 560 Ti for $250 is overpriced. A Radeon HD7850 is the same price and an overall better card. If you want to remain with Nvidia for whatever reason, GTX 560 Ti can be had for less. ASUS DirectCu II @ $235: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64376&promoid=1018 , Gigabyte Windforce @ $220: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58366&promoid=1018 , EVGA @ $230: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623A full tower case is not necessary. A 750w unit is not necessary and the High Current Gamer isn't a good choice either. 650w is plenty of power for SLI and overclocking every component. Rosewill Capstone is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182073 The 650w variant is OOS atm. There are of course other options that are better / equal for less such as the Antec Earthwatts for $100 ($85 after promo code IVYPSU15, ends 5/5) with a $20 mail in rebate, which is basically the same thing as the HCG - just with different branding: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051You're also missing a heatsink for overclocking. Thanks for the feedback, obviously waiting so long for an upgrade has made me look like an idiot, so I'm glad I'm getting some advice. As far as the rebates and such, I was factoring those in, I've for the most part had no problems with mail-in rebate, but I understand the caution. Apparently I'm a sucker for bundles, but I found a bundle with a 3570k that doesn't seem to bad. 3570k + msi z77a-g45 $379 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71291&vpn=Z77A-G45 & 3570K&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1018Taking your advice on the SSD $125 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018Found some cheaper RAM $40 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin Enhanced&promoid=1368I've had terrible problems with all of my Radeon cards in the past, and was looking to go nvidia, but after comparing price and performance it does seem silly to go with the 560 $250 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986Apparently I linked the wrong case, as I was actually looking at the mid-tower version of this case $90 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTERhttp://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER Will probably go with the EarthWatts $80 (w/ mail-in) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051Forgot the heatsink $60 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=46802Total: $1024 So first question, updated build look a better? I'd assume so since it's mostly your recommendations, but worth asking for feedback considering a follow-up question: Should I take the $200 I'd have left in my budget to match my main monitor? Currently my setup is a 24" widescreen ASUS with a 19" Syncmaster as a secondary, but found my montior without the webcam for $190 http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VW246H-24-Inch-LCD-Monitor/dp/B001LYWBOM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336067441&sr=8-1-fkmr1. It'll be more aesthetically pleasing to me, so if I was to get a second monitor at this point I'd want to match it.
The bundle is actually bad. Core i5 3570k can be had for $230 from various retailers: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004 and the motherboard can also be had at Tigerdirect for $135: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2332609 For a total of $365. The 3570k also has a mail in rebate which ends in two days, if you want to factor that in than it's $345.
Might as well just buy a Noctua NH-D14 for $20 more if you are willing to go with Noctua: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A or get the NH-U12P (bigger U9, uses 120mm fans instead of 92mm) for slightly more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TG3K14
I noticed you're missing an HDD so I assume you already have a secondary to use for storage and less used software?
Getting a third / second matching monitor is fine.
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On May 04 2012 03:07 BeMannerDuPenner wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Weeeeell, rig is completly build and so far running fine. currently testing with prime max heat and getting ~57° max temps.
so far so good.will test gpu in games i guess.
but i have a few problems still:
1. my dvd drive doesnt work. it gets recognized and all but it doesnt read any dvds. i just keeps trying and after a while tells me there is no disc in there. i already tried different sata ports and cables but nothing changed anything.
had to dl the mobos ethernet driver on ages old laptop and install it with a stick then dl all other drivers. zero clue what could be the problem here.
2. for whatever reason windows doesnt recognize one of my partitions of my old hdd. the big 2 work fine, the ooold system one that i cleared just isnt there in windows. even more weird is that it showed up fine during the win7 installation.
again im quite clueless since ive never ever had just a part of a hdd disappear on me.
ignore that. just had to give it a driver letter, seems to work fine now <.<
3. unrelated somewhat but why is the option to just put in my firefox sync key not there anymore? it just asks me for the code from the other device, usually i could select that i dont have it with me and just enter the sync key.
and side question, i guess msi afterburner works with my gigabyte 560 ti 448? cause on first look the gigabyte tool is way worse .
DOA I guess.
Yes, MSI Afterburner works with any card.
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On May 04 2012 03:34 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 03:07 BeMannerDuPenner wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Weeeeell, rig is completly build and so far running fine. currently testing with prime max heat and getting ~57° max temps.
so far so good.will test gpu in games i guess.
but i have a few problems still:
1. my dvd drive doesnt work. it gets recognized and all but it doesnt read any dvds. i just keeps trying and after a while tells me there is no disc in there. i already tried different sata ports and cables but nothing changed anything.
had to dl the mobos ethernet driver on ages old laptop and install it with a stick then dl all other drivers. zero clue what could be the problem here.
2. for whatever reason windows doesnt recognize one of my partitions of my old hdd. the big 2 work fine, the ooold system one that i cleared just isnt there in windows. even more weird is that it showed up fine during the win7 installation.
again im quite clueless since ive never ever had just a part of a hdd disappear on me.
ignore that. just had to give it a driver letter, seems to work fine now <.<
3. unrelated somewhat but why is the option to just put in my firefox sync key not there anymore? it just asks me for the code from the other device, usually i could select that i dont have it with me and just enter the sync key.
and side question, i guess msi afterburner works with my gigabyte 560 ti 448? cause on first look the gigabyte tool is way worse . DOA I guess. Yes, MSI Afterburner works with any card.
any other possible reasons? not that its a big deal, its obv the cheapest and least important part. if the drive is the only thing faulty im still a happy builder. still dont wanna send it in if its fixeable at home ~~
thx again , overall im quite exhausted now. there was some trouble but overall my first build from 0 went well so far .
and damn that thing is quiet. even when the case was open i barely heard anything, now its pure silence.
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On May 04 2012 03:32 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 02:56 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 03 2012 17:53 skyR wrote:The hyperthreading of a 3770k will help with streaming but will basically be useless for gaming since most games these days still only use two cores. So you may want to get a 3570k instead but if you don't care than okay the 3770k is fine. The combo you posted for the GD65 and 3770k is $508 after mail in rebate. I'm not sure if you are including mail in rebates in your total or just don't know what they are? Mail in rebates aren't an instant discount - a form has to be filled out, mailed, approved, processed, and mailed back to you in the form of a cheque or prepaid credit card. This process usually takes a few months, assuming you followed the instructions correctly, the company doesn't deny / reject it, and it doesn't get lost in the mail - if any of that happens than goodbye money. The combo is $528 at checkout. Not really much of a deal to be had. Crucial M4 128gb is $125, easily fits into your budget: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018 Really, you shouldn't be getting a 64gb SSD these days with this kind of budget. Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and has ridiculously tall heatspreaders that won't clear a lot of tower heatsinks. There are tons of other options available for $30-$40. A GTX 560 Ti for $250 is overpriced. A Radeon HD7850 is the same price and an overall better card. If you want to remain with Nvidia for whatever reason, GTX 560 Ti can be had for less. ASUS DirectCu II @ $235: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64376&promoid=1018 , Gigabyte Windforce @ $220: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58366&promoid=1018 , EVGA @ $230: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623A full tower case is not necessary. A 750w unit is not necessary and the High Current Gamer isn't a good choice either. 650w is plenty of power for SLI and overclocking every component. Rosewill Capstone is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182073 The 650w variant is OOS atm. There are of course other options that are better / equal for less such as the Antec Earthwatts for $100 ($85 after promo code IVYPSU15, ends 5/5) with a $20 mail in rebate, which is basically the same thing as the HCG - just with different branding: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051You're also missing a heatsink for overclocking. Thanks for the feedback, obviously waiting so long for an upgrade has made me look like an idiot, so I'm glad I'm getting some advice. As far as the rebates and such, I was factoring those in, I've for the most part had no problems with mail-in rebate, but I understand the caution. Apparently I'm a sucker for bundles, but I found a bundle with a 3570k that doesn't seem to bad. 3570k + msi z77a-g45 $379 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71291&vpn=Z77A-G45 & 3570K&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1018Taking your advice on the SSD $125 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018Found some cheaper RAM $40 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin Enhanced&promoid=1368I've had terrible problems with all of my Radeon cards in the past, and was looking to go nvidia, but after comparing price and performance it does seem silly to go with the 560 $250 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986Apparently I linked the wrong case, as I was actually looking at the mid-tower version of this case $90 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTERhttp://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER Will probably go with the EarthWatts $80 (w/ mail-in) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051Forgot the heatsink $60 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=46802Total: $1024 So first question, updated build look a better? I'd assume so since it's mostly your recommendations, but worth asking for feedback considering a follow-up question: Should I take the $200 I'd have left in my budget to match my main monitor? Currently my setup is a 24" widescreen ASUS with a 19" Syncmaster as a secondary, but found my montior without the webcam for $190 http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VW246H-24-Inch-LCD-Monitor/dp/B001LYWBOM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336067441&sr=8-1-fkmr1. It'll be more aesthetically pleasing to me, so if I was to get a second monitor at this point I'd want to match it. The bundle is actually bad. Core i5 3570k can be had for $230 from various retailers: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004 and the motherboard can also be had at Tigerdirect for $135: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2332609 For a total of $365. The 3570k also has a mail in rebate which ends in two days, if you want to factor that in than it's $345. Might as well just buy a Noctua NH-D14 for $20 more if you are willing to go with Noctua: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A or get the NH-U12P (bigger U9, uses 120mm fans instead of 92mm) for slightly more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TG3K14I noticed you're missing an HDD so I assume you already have a secondary to use for storage and less used software? Getting a third / second matching monitor is fine.
Sounds good, I'll definitely just grab the cpu/mobo separate then.
My last 2 pcs have been water cooled, haven't had much trouble with the cpu, but wanted to go air this time which is why I went the Noctua, any concerns about the weight of this being too much? I noticed the D14 weight about 2x as much as the U9B.
I'll be putting the HDD from my current box as storage drive plus I've got an external for media and such so I'm good there. Since it's been so long since an upgrade I'm also pretty clueless as to SSDs. I feel like I have a good enough grasp on the tech itself, but I guess my question would be any recommendations on how to set up the drive? Should I partition a segment for my OS, use the rest for games/programs I want to max read/write with, and keep anything else on the storage drive? Everything on one partition?
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On May 04 2012 04:37 Battleaxe wrote:
My last 2 pcs have been water cooled, haven't had much trouble with the cpu, but wanted to go air this time which is why I went the Noctua, any concerns about the weight of this being too much? I noticed the D14 weight about 2x as much as the U9B.
I'm always confused by these kinds of questions. If it was too much do you think they'd be selling it & have it be so popular?
U9B is dinky. You'll barely get a decent overclock with that and/or your temps will be very high.
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On May 04 2012 04:37 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 04 2012 03:32 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 02:56 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 03 2012 17:53 skyR wrote:The hyperthreading of a 3770k will help with streaming but will basically be useless for gaming since most games these days still only use two cores. So you may want to get a 3570k instead but if you don't care than okay the 3770k is fine. The combo you posted for the GD65 and 3770k is $508 after mail in rebate. I'm not sure if you are including mail in rebates in your total or just don't know what they are? Mail in rebates aren't an instant discount - a form has to be filled out, mailed, approved, processed, and mailed back to you in the form of a cheque or prepaid credit card. This process usually takes a few months, assuming you followed the instructions correctly, the company doesn't deny / reject it, and it doesn't get lost in the mail - if any of that happens than goodbye money. The combo is $528 at checkout. Not really much of a deal to be had. Crucial M4 128gb is $125, easily fits into your budget: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018 Really, you shouldn't be getting a 64gb SSD these days with this kind of budget. Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and has ridiculously tall heatspreaders that won't clear a lot of tower heatsinks. There are tons of other options available for $30-$40. A GTX 560 Ti for $250 is overpriced. A Radeon HD7850 is the same price and an overall better card. If you want to remain with Nvidia for whatever reason, GTX 560 Ti can be had for less. ASUS DirectCu II @ $235: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64376&promoid=1018 , Gigabyte Windforce @ $220: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58366&promoid=1018 , EVGA @ $230: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623A full tower case is not necessary. A 750w unit is not necessary and the High Current Gamer isn't a good choice either. 650w is plenty of power for SLI and overclocking every component. Rosewill Capstone is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182073 The 650w variant is OOS atm. There are of course other options that are better / equal for less such as the Antec Earthwatts for $100 ($85 after promo code IVYPSU15, ends 5/5) with a $20 mail in rebate, which is basically the same thing as the HCG - just with different branding: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051You're also missing a heatsink for overclocking. Thanks for the feedback, obviously waiting so long for an upgrade has made me look like an idiot, so I'm glad I'm getting some advice. As far as the rebates and such, I was factoring those in, I've for the most part had no problems with mail-in rebate, but I understand the caution. Apparently I'm a sucker for bundles, but I found a bundle with a 3570k that doesn't seem to bad. 3570k + msi z77a-g45 $379 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71291&vpn=Z77A-G45 & 3570K&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1018Taking your advice on the SSD $125 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018Found some cheaper RAM $40 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin Enhanced&promoid=1368I've had terrible problems with all of my Radeon cards in the past, and was looking to go nvidia, but after comparing price and performance it does seem silly to go with the 560 $250 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986Apparently I linked the wrong case, as I was actually looking at the mid-tower version of this case $90 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTERhttp://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER Will probably go with the EarthWatts $80 (w/ mail-in) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051Forgot the heatsink $60 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=46802Total: $1024 So first question, updated build look a better? I'd assume so since it's mostly your recommendations, but worth asking for feedback considering a follow-up question: Should I take the $200 I'd have left in my budget to match my main monitor? Currently my setup is a 24" widescreen ASUS with a 19" Syncmaster as a secondary, but found my montior without the webcam for $190 http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VW246H-24-Inch-LCD-Monitor/dp/B001LYWBOM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336067441&sr=8-1-fkmr1. It'll be more aesthetically pleasing to me, so if I was to get a second monitor at this point I'd want to match it. The bundle is actually bad. Core i5 3570k can be had for $230 from various retailers: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004 and the motherboard can also be had at Tigerdirect for $135: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2332609 For a total of $365. The 3570k also has a mail in rebate which ends in two days, if you want to factor that in than it's $345. Might as well just buy a Noctua NH-D14 for $20 more if you are willing to go with Noctua: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A or get the NH-U12P (bigger U9, uses 120mm fans instead of 92mm) for slightly more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TG3K14I noticed you're missing an HDD so I assume you already have a secondary to use for storage and less used software? Getting a third / second matching monitor is fine. Sounds good, I'll definitely just grab the cpu/mobo separate then. My last 2 pcs have been water cooled, haven't had much trouble with the cpu, but wanted to go air this time which is why I went the Noctua, any concerns about the weight of this being too much? I noticed the D14 weight about 2x as much as the U9B. I'll be putting the HDD from my current box as storage drive plus I've got an external for media and such so I'm good there. Since it's been so long since an upgrade I'm also pretty clueless as to SSDs. I feel like I have a good enough grasp on the tech itself, but I guess my question would be any recommendations on how to set up the drive? Should I partition a segment for my OS, use the rest for games/programs I want to max read/write with, and keep anything else on the storage drive? Everything on one partition?
Ya, it's silly to think that weight would be an issue since Noctua is still in business and dozens of others use dual radiator designs as well. If you're concerned about weight, you should be way more concerned about the graphics card being supported by a PCI-E slot.
I don't see the need to partition a 128gb SSD.
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Background: I have some experience putting computers together with my dad, we had like a small computer lab at our house of self-built computers so my brothers and I could LAN ^^. I'm here now because the laptop I got for college 6 years ago (wow) can't run D3  My bros are on my case about not playing with them, I'm very cheap but I think it's about time to build one  Despite physical experience I know next to nothing about the components beyond what I've been reading the last few days.
What is your budget?
$600-700. Any more and the wife won't be happy methinks.
What is your resolution?
I'm not sure how to answer this, I'm not a real picky person when it comes to graphics. Ultra or really high in SC2 looks weird to me, always played on minimum settings.
What are you using it for?
Gaming. Don't have time or skill to be streaming.
What is your upgrade cycle?
<2 years if this means I could get something good enough for now and it will lower the price of my build then I can look into upgrading a crucial component down the road.
When do you plan on building it?
Next couple weeks... close to D3 release but I'm more cost-sensitive than time-sensitive.
Do you plan on overclocking?
I am 99% this isn't something I'm interested in.
Do you need an Operating System?
I have Windows 7.
It's kinda vague but I'm really just looking for someone to point me in the right direction... I don't have any preferences for brand. If this is too general just let me know, I'm really just looking for an affordable gaming pc that I can play SC2, D3, LoL on without problems Thanks!
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If you're really concerned about weight, get a Silverstone TJ08-E or PS07. A long-enough video card in the top slot rests its weight on top of the hard drive cage, and there's a support bracket that can hold up a CPU tower cooler. You need to go microATX though, and if you have a huge tower cooler, you can't use 3.5" hard drives in the hard drive bay (2.5" SSD or hard drives in adapters are okay, and there's an extra slot below the cage for a 3.5" hard drive). Cooling is probably better or similar to a HAF 932, for what little that's worth.
On a side note, does it really help much to have a huge cooler for Ivy Bridge? The issue is in transferring the heat from the CPU to the heatsink (which works better if the heatsink is at a lower temperature), more so than cooling the heatsink itself. I get a mental image of a huge and relatively lukewarm cooler sitting on top of a hot CPU. Or should I be going back and studying any level of thermodynamics before posting again?
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On May 04 2012 04:49 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 04:37 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 04 2012 03:32 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 02:56 Battleaxe wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 03 2012 17:53 skyR wrote:The hyperthreading of a 3770k will help with streaming but will basically be useless for gaming since most games these days still only use two cores. So you may want to get a 3570k instead but if you don't care than okay the 3770k is fine. The combo you posted for the GD65 and 3770k is $508 after mail in rebate. I'm not sure if you are including mail in rebates in your total or just don't know what they are? Mail in rebates aren't an instant discount - a form has to be filled out, mailed, approved, processed, and mailed back to you in the form of a cheque or prepaid credit card. This process usually takes a few months, assuming you followed the instructions correctly, the company doesn't deny / reject it, and it doesn't get lost in the mail - if any of that happens than goodbye money. The combo is $528 at checkout. Not really much of a deal to be had. Crucial M4 128gb is $125, easily fits into your budget: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018 Really, you shouldn't be getting a 64gb SSD these days with this kind of budget. Corsair Vengeance is overpriced and has ridiculously tall heatspreaders that won't clear a lot of tower heatsinks. There are tons of other options available for $30-$40. A GTX 560 Ti for $250 is overpriced. A Radeon HD7850 is the same price and an overall better card. If you want to remain with Nvidia for whatever reason, GTX 560 Ti can be had for less. ASUS DirectCu II @ $235: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=64376&promoid=1018 , Gigabyte Windforce @ $220: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58366&promoid=1018 , EVGA @ $230: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623A full tower case is not necessary. A 750w unit is not necessary and the High Current Gamer isn't a good choice either. 650w is plenty of power for SLI and overclocking every component. Rosewill Capstone is better for the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182073 The 650w variant is OOS atm. There are of course other options that are better / equal for less such as the Antec Earthwatts for $100 ($85 after promo code IVYPSU15, ends 5/5) with a $20 mail in rebate, which is basically the same thing as the HCG - just with different branding: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051You're also missing a heatsink for overclocking. Thanks for the feedback, obviously waiting so long for an upgrade has made me look like an idiot, so I'm glad I'm getting some advice. As far as the rebates and such, I was factoring those in, I've for the most part had no problems with mail-in rebate, but I understand the caution. Apparently I'm a sucker for bundles, but I found a bundle with a 3570k that doesn't seem to bad. 3570k + msi z77a-g45 $379 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71291&vpn=Z77A-G45 & 3570K&manufacture=Bundle Deals&promoid=1018Taking your advice on the SSD $125 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60445&promoid=1018Found some cheaper RAM $40 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55544&vpn=996770&manufacture=Mushkin Enhanced&promoid=1368I've had terrible problems with all of my Radeon cards in the past, and was looking to go nvidia, but after comparing price and performance it does seem silly to go with the 560 $250 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102986Apparently I linked the wrong case, as I was actually looking at the mid-tower version of this case $90 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTERhttp://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=38996&vpn=RC-922M-KKN1-GP&manufacture=COOLERMASTER Will probably go with the EarthWatts $80 (w/ mail-in) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051Forgot the heatsink $60 - http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=46802Total: $1024 So first question, updated build look a better? I'd assume so since it's mostly your recommendations, but worth asking for feedback considering a follow-up question: Should I take the $200 I'd have left in my budget to match my main monitor? Currently my setup is a 24" widescreen ASUS with a 19" Syncmaster as a secondary, but found my montior without the webcam for $190 http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VW246H-24-Inch-LCD-Monitor/dp/B001LYWBOM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336067441&sr=8-1-fkmr1. It'll be more aesthetically pleasing to me, so if I was to get a second monitor at this point I'd want to match it. The bundle is actually bad. Core i5 3570k can be had for $230 from various retailers: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004 and the motherboard can also be had at Tigerdirect for $135: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2332609 For a total of $365. The 3570k also has a mail in rebate which ends in two days, if you want to factor that in than it's $345. Might as well just buy a Noctua NH-D14 for $20 more if you are willing to go with Noctua: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A or get the NH-U12P (bigger U9, uses 120mm fans instead of 92mm) for slightly more: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TG3K14I noticed you're missing an HDD so I assume you already have a secondary to use for storage and less used software? Getting a third / second matching monitor is fine. Sounds good, I'll definitely just grab the cpu/mobo separate then. My last 2 pcs have been water cooled, haven't had much trouble with the cpu, but wanted to go air this time which is why I went the Noctua, any concerns about the weight of this being too much? I noticed the D14 weight about 2x as much as the U9B. I'll be putting the HDD from my current box as storage drive plus I've got an external for media and such so I'm good there. Since it's been so long since an upgrade I'm also pretty clueless as to SSDs. I feel like I have a good enough grasp on the tech itself, but I guess my question would be any recommendations on how to set up the drive? Should I partition a segment for my OS, use the rest for games/programs I want to max read/write with, and keep anything else on the storage drive? Everything on one partition? Ya, it's silly to think that weight would be an issue since Noctua is still in business and dozens of others use dual radiator designs as well. If you're concerned about weight, you should be way more concerned about the graphics card being supported by a PCI-E slot. I don't see the need to partition a 128gb SSD.
Haha sounds good, and again thanks for the feedback/help, I really appreciate it. I'll probably start ordering the parts tonight, will def come back and post an update once I get it up and running :D
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On May 04 2012 05:08 Myrmidon wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On a side note, does it really help much to have a huge cooler for Ivy Bridge? The issue is in transferring the heat from the CPU to the heatsink (which works better if the heatsink is at a lower temperature), more so than cooling the heatsink itself. I get a mental image of a huge and relatively lukewarm cooler sitting on top of a hot CPU. Or should I be going back and studying any level of thermodynamics before posting again
Don't think so. The issue with the heat seems to be that Intel is using a TIM between the die and IHS instead of fluxless solder.
On May 04 2012 04:59 mordek wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Background: I have some experience putting computers together with my dad, we had like a small computer lab at our house of self-built computers so my brothers and I could LAN ^^. I'm here now because the laptop I got for college 6 years ago (wow) can't run D3 My bros are on my case about not playing with them, I'm very cheap but I think it's about time to build one Despite physical experience I know next to nothing about the components beyond what I've been reading the last few days. What is your budget? $600-700. Any more and the wife won't be happy methinks. What is your resolution? I'm not sure how to answer this, I'm not a real picky person when it comes to graphics. Ultra or really high in SC2 looks weird to me, always played on minimum settings. What are you using it for? Gaming. Don't have time or skill to be streaming. What is your upgrade cycle? <2 years if this means I could get something good enough for now and it will lower the price of my build then I can look into upgrading a crucial component down the road. When do you plan on building it? Next couple weeks... close to D3 release but I'm more cost-sensitive than time-sensitive. Do you plan on overclocking? I am 99% this isn't something I'm interested in. Do you need an Operating System? I have Windows 7. It's kinda vague but I'm really just looking for someone to point me in the right direction... I don't have any preferences for brand. If this is too general just let me know, I'm really just looking for an affordable gaming pc that I can play SC2, D3, LoL on without problems Thanks!
Resolution is the amount of pixels that can be displayed on your monitor (eg. 1920x1080). You want to be playing at your monitor's native resolution since it'll look better. The graphical demand at 1920x1080 or 2560x1400 is very different than that of 1280x1024 or 1280x720.
This is $548 before mail in rebates, capable of playing Starcraft II / Diablo III / LoL on ultra at 1080p - if you don't play at 1080p or don't plan on playing at relatively high settings, you can save money by getting a less expensive GPU:
Intel Core i3 2100 @ $115
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58339&promoid=1018
MSI H67A-G43 @ $70 ($50 after mail in rebate)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=69617&promoid=1018
PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III 400 @ $50 ($30 after mail in rebate)
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=65317&promoid=1018
Bitfenix Merc Alpha @ $42
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63256
Seagate Barracuda 500GB @ $70
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63468&promoid=1018
DVD Burner @ $17
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=49597&promoid=1018
Sapphire Radeon HD6850 & Patriot 2x4GB 1333MHz @ $184 ($169 after mail in rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.926825
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On May 04 2012 05:45 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 05:08 Myrmidon wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On a side note, does it really help much to have a huge cooler for Ivy Bridge? The issue is in transferring the heat from the CPU to the heatsink (which works better if the heatsink is at a lower temperature), more so than cooling the heatsink itself. I get a mental image of a huge and relatively lukewarm cooler sitting on top of a hot CPU. Or should I be going back and studying any level of thermodynamics before posting again Don't think so. The issue with the heat seems to be that Intel is using a TIM between the die and IHS instead of fluxless solder. Show nested quote +On May 04 2012 04:59 mordek wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Background: I have some experience putting computers together with my dad, we had like a small computer lab at our house of self-built computers so my brothers and I could LAN ^^. I'm here now because the laptop I got for college 6 years ago (wow) can't run D3 My bros are on my case about not playing with them, I'm very cheap but I think it's about time to build one Despite physical experience I know next to nothing about the components beyond what I've been reading the last few days. What is your budget? $600-700. Any more and the wife won't be happy methinks. What is your resolution? I'm not sure how to answer this, I'm not a real picky person when it comes to graphics. Ultra or really high in SC2 looks weird to me, always played on minimum settings. What are you using it for? Gaming. Don't have time or skill to be streaming. What is your upgrade cycle? <2 years if this means I could get something good enough for now and it will lower the price of my build then I can look into upgrading a crucial component down the road. When do you plan on building it? Next couple weeks... close to D3 release but I'm more cost-sensitive than time-sensitive. Do you plan on overclocking? I am 99% this isn't something I'm interested in. Do you need an Operating System? I have Windows 7. It's kinda vague but I'm really just looking for someone to point me in the right direction... I don't have any preferences for brand. If this is too general just let me know, I'm really just looking for an affordable gaming pc that I can play SC2, D3, LoL on without problems Thanks! Resolution is the amount of pixels that can be displayed on your monitor (eg. 1920x1080). You want to be playing at your monitor's native resolution since it'll look better. The graphical demand at 1920x1080 or 2560x1400 is very different than that of 1280x1024 or 1280x720. This is $548 before mail in rebates, capable of playing Starcraft II / Diablo III / LoL on ultra at 1080p - if you don't play at 1080p or don't plan on playing at relatively high settings, you can save money by getting a less expensive GPU: Intel Core i3 2100 @ $115 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=58339&promoid=1018MSI H67A-G43 @ $70 ($50 after mail in rebate) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=69617&promoid=1018PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III 400 @ $50 ($30 after mail in rebate) http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=65317&promoid=1018Bitfenix Merc Alpha @ $42 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63256Seagate Barracuda 500GB @ $70 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63468&promoid=1018DVD Burner @ $17 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=49597&promoid=1018Sapphire Radeon HD6850 & Patriot 2x4GB 1333MHz @ $184 ($169 after mail in rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.926825
Thanks so much. I edited out my response of "I'm embarassed I'm not sure how to answer this question" for the resolution. I thought that might be it but I don't have a monitor, I'm thinking there's a spare one at my parent's. It's not going to be anything fancy, especially if I buy one. This was exactly what I was hoping for thanks again.
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It's both, removal of heatspreader doesn't help temperatures because the size is too small to efficiently lead the heat away. Even with the heatspreader on, the chip is still getting hotter and the TIM doesn't help.
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I thought it's been shown that the TIM has a small effect here? Results are pretty much the same with the TIM replaced and without the heatspreader at all.
The higher the temperature differential (temperature gradient really) between the chip and the cooler, the faster the heat transfer out of the chip. Unless you take voltages to unreasonable levels, Ivy Bridge doesn't put out much heat. Thus even a mediocre CPU cooler can remain fairly cool with this kind of load, relative to a top-end cooler. Assuming the base and thermal transfer from CPU to cooler is the same for each possible cooler (it's not in practice), the difference is just in how well the CPU heatsinks cool themselves. For a smaller thermal load, the cooling requirements to maintain a certain temperature level are smaller. Hence there's not much difference in performance between a mediocre and high-end cooler for this application. (?)
Is there anything wrong with my simplified analysis? Where's the mistake?
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So I built a new computer and gave my old build to my brother, except I kept my case and bought him a new one, an Antec Three Hundred.
Only problem is that both of his fans need a three-pin connector for power on the motherboard, but he only has one. The connector looks exactly like this (the white part). Any solutions? Are there any adapters that are easy to find that would let me power his fan directly from the power supply? Should I just buy a new fan?
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On May 04 2012 06:42 Kovaz wrote:So I built a new computer and gave my old build to my brother, except I kept my case and bought him a new one, an Antec Three Hundred. Only problem is that both of his fans need a three-pin connector for power on the motherboard, but he only has one. The connector looks exactly like this (the white part). Any solutions? Are there any adapters that are easy to find that would let me power his fan directly from the power supply? Should I just buy a new fan?
Yes, you can get a molex-4pin fan header adapter, and a 3 pin will connect to a 4 pin. Or you can get a fan controller, which is my preferred solution, since running fans at max RPM is a ton more noise for little gains in cooling.
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Antec 300? I could've sworn that TriCools had a 4-pin molex connector already and could still use the switch to select between the three fan speeds.
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On May 04 2012 06:54 Myrmidon wrote:
Antec 300? I could've sworn that TriCools had a 4-pin molex connector already and could still use the switch to select between the three fan speeds.
They make two different varieties of tricool, some with molex, some with headers. I think they're trying to graduate into doing it halfway intelligent via headers instead of passthrough molex. But yeah, the tricool does have the switch, I just wasn't sure if the 300 had tricools or some other, lower end shit.
I still tend to just set them to high and run them through a controller panel though, just because it's easier that way.
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EPT
