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KOFgokuon
United States14899 Posts
On June 23 2010 16:15 haduken wrote: ![[image loading]](http://lh6.ggpht.com/_F52QCPAQ4mY/TCGz9vT-E5I/AAAAAAAAAWc/RG11mq-jnis/s288/2010-06-23%2017.08.17.jpg) Just picked up a G.Skill Falcon 2 64GB. Need to get an extra Cage though or can I just plug it in. SSD don't vibrate like hard drives so I should be fine right? I used masking tape to strap my ssd down Some people use double sided tape | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
On June 24 2010 11:28 Craton wrote: I have been having the damndest time figuring out what UPS to get. Right now I've got a average setup with an amd 6400+/ati 5850 and 600watt Antec, but I'll probably upgrade to a high i5 or low i7 setup (or something in that range) by the end of summer. I've been reading various articles about UPSes, but nothing really helps me get my head around them. Tips? APC CS series 750VA or 1000VA if you want longer up time after power is gone. You need to get cable adapters though for the outlets. ES series if you just want something to plug in like a power board. | ||
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Craton
United States17274 Posts
On June 24 2010 11:43 FragKrag wrote: do you mean PSU? No, Uninterruptable Power Supply APC CS series 750VA or 1000VA if you want longer up time after power is gone. You need to get cable adapters though for the outlets. ES series if you just want something to plug in like a power board. Don't even know what half of that means :| | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On June 27 2010 15:25 Craton wrote: No, Uninterruptable Power Supply Don't even know what half of that means :| APC is a company that makes UPS devices. The CS series are business class models, while the ES series are home computer class models. A VA is a volt-ampere (i.e. it's a volt multiplied by an ampere), which is a type of power measurement. In an AC power system, if the voltage and current are not in phase, then the product of the voltage amount and current amount will not equal the Watts drawn. The volt*current product multiplied by something called the power factor (something in the range of 0 to 1) is the Watts drawn. The power factor is just the cosine of the phase difference between the voltage and current. UPS's are rated for a certain amount of Watts and also volt-amperes. It's not supposed to exceed either value. e.g. a unit might be rated for 450 Watts and 700 VA. The power factor of a load depends on what type of device it is. In your case, your computer's power supply is drawing power from the APC. Most reasonably high-end power supplies do active power factor correction, meaning that they adjust themselves in an attempt to keep the voltage and current in phase, to get a power factor close to 1. I think 0.98-0.99 or so is typical? In this case, the Watts drawn is just about 1-2% less than the volt-amperes drawn. Unless my thinking is wrong, you should be concerned more with the Watts rating rather than the VA rating because the max Watts spec rather than the VA spec will be the limiting factor. Find a UPS with a higher Watts spec than what your whoa important *edit2: and note that how much power your PSU draws is how much it delivers divided by the efficiency--about 0.80 and up for 80 plus PSUs ofc? So that's a somewhat higher figure than how much power your computer components use. edit: how long the battery backup can power your stuff depends on how much power you're drawing of course. Figure out how long you need and at what power draw. Personally I can vouch for even the cheaper UPS models by APC, as I get power surges every couple months and occasional blackouts where I live. | ||
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iPlaY.NettleS
Australia4373 Posts
is sata 2 compatible with sata1 slots or is it a whole new slot type | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
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G0dly
United States450 Posts
dunno if that's good or not | ||
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FragKrag
United States11554 Posts
May be a bit high for the AMD CPUs though. | ||
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semantics
10040 Posts
To note though my i5-750 idles at +28c and my E8400 idles at +32c ofc i keep my room cold and use a big air cooler which helps. | ||
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CorsairHero
Canada9491 Posts
http://forums.redflagdeals.com/ncix-custom-built-computers-1000-700-gaming-computers-760568/ has people trying to work out cheap builds at the 700-1000$ level and gets updated daily | ||
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
I'm planning on building a desktop rather than buying a pre-assembled one, since I'm somewhat tight on money. My budget for this is probably between $650 and $750 (American). I already have a keyboard, mouse, speakers and a monitor. All of the parts from my Dimension are too crappy to re-use in a new build. The things I want to be able to do: -Play SC2 on high, smoothly... And also be able to run some more graphically intensive games on respectable (not super low) settings. I don't want/need a supercomputer, just something that will let me play a game like Modern Warfare 2 (just an example) without it looking or performing like crap. I don't need to play Crysis on maxed out settings. As I said, I'm build illiterate, so I really don't know what performance levels correspond with certain price ranges. -Watch 720p videos. On my current computer, videos with 60 fps at 720p lag and skip like crazy. I'm an avid hockey fan as well as a boxing and MMA fan, and a lot of the games that are released on torrent sites are 720p with 60 fps, and I simply can't watch them. -Avoid static noise when plugged into the headphone jack. My current computer has a headphone jack in the front, but apparently it is "unshielded" (no idea...) so there is a lot of static noise coming through the headphones. -Have at least 640 GB. Are my price range and performance expectation in line with one another? | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
CPU: AMD AM3 Phenom II X4 955BE $180 Mobo: Asus M4A87TD-USB3 $114 RAM: G.Skill-NT 4GB DDR3-1333 $129 HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB $59 GPU: 1GB ATI Radeon HD5770 $170 Case: Antec 300 $66 PSU: Antec Neo Eco 450C $64 (BYO power cord) ODD: DVD burner $26 ^ This build is $810 Australian dollars which is like $750ish USD so that give you some room to move. Add another $40 for a 1TB Harddrive. | ||
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yakitate304
United States655 Posts
On July 01 2010 07:58 haduken wrote: $810 ($1,070) Best Bang-For-Buck Gaming Config CPU: AMD AM3 Phenom II X4 955BE $180 Mobo: Asus M4A87TD-USB3 $114 RAM: G.Skill-NT 4GB DDR3-1333 $129 HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB $59 GPU: 1GB ATI Radeon HD5770 $170 Case: Antec 300 $66 PSU: Antec Neo Eco 450C $64 (BYO power cord) ODD: DVD burner $26 ^ This build is $810 Australian dollars which is like $750ish USD so that give you some room to move. Add another $40 for a 1TB Harddrive. Thanks a lot! That was a really good starting point for me - I looked around Newegg to see if I could get any better values or higher rated items, and came up with this: ![[image loading]](http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt353/yakitate304/ComputerBuild1.jpg) Links: CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor $160 Mobo: MSI 870A-G54 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard $110 RAM: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) $99 HDD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s $80 GPU: MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card $180 Case: Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $60 PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply $65 ------- Total Price: $753.89 Haven't ordered yet. As I said, I'm pretty noobish regarding computer builds, so I want to make sure that everything is compatible. Also, is there any reason why this version of the 5770 is 20 dollars cheaper? SAPPHIRE 100283-3L Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card Would it be just as good? | ||
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maareek
United States2042 Posts
Make sure you have a power cord, as that PSU doesn't come with one. | ||
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FragKrag
United States11554 Posts
The stock overclock will get you nothing really. 25MHz is normally unnoticeable (maybe 1 or 2 frames?) | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151094&cm_re=seasonic-_-17-151-094-_-Product Only 4 dollars more and Seasonic is one of the best (Antec is okay but seasonic is better). Personally I would swap the hard drive to WD BLACK 750GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136283&cm_re=WD_Black-_-22-136-283-_-Product But the samsung F3 is also good. | ||
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maareek
United States2042 Posts
Seasonic 520W is a good model, too. I have the modular version and it's pretty awesome. Edit at FragKrag, below: wow, yeah, definitely. Modular Seasonic for <$85 is easy to pull the trigger on. In contrast to the first review there (I think the problem is on his end, btw), that PSU is working well for me. Also, there's only one 12V rail, despite it listing two. | ||
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FragKrag
United States11554 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093 | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128435 If you want another 5770 in the future to do cross fire. only 20 dollars more. | ||
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haduken
Australia8267 Posts
On July 02 2010 09:47 maareek wrote: If he's gonna get a Caviar Black, and he plans to buy right away, he should go with the 1TB 3Gb/s model that was a shell shocker this morning. It's the same price as the Spinpoint F3 1TB right now. link Seasonic 520W is a good model, too. I have the modular version and it's pretty awesome. Err, didn't see the 1TB on New Egg. Yeah for that price I would go for the WD Black. Samsung F3 have better sequential speed but WD have better access speed. | ||
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