Travel broadens the mind but narrows the wallet
After my 11 hour flight time (UK -> Netherlands -> South Korea) I touched down in Incheon and got myself a rental phone, from SK Telecom of course fellow Bisu fans. I had only been to South Korea once before, for e-Stars Seoul 2010 as part of my work, and on that occasion all travel was taken care of by the organisers of the trip. As a result this would be my first time finding my way around and figuring things out. The Subway system proved to be one of the best I've experienced thusfar and once you had a handheld map you could easily travel across all of Seoul and its suburbs cheaply and simply.
I set off from Incheon to my hotel, which was located in Nowon-gu. That journey involved two line changes and about an hour and bit of travel time. Since the actual address of the hotel said it was in Sanggye-6dong I got off at the Sanggye stop, only to find out, from asking multiple locals on the street, that I had to walk about 10-15 minutes in the direction I'd just come to. When I found my hotel it was all of 5 minutes walk from the Nowon-gu stop. Exhausted from travel and in need of good food, though admittedly KLM's airline food is better than most since they offer a Korean alternative if you're headed to Korea, I stashed my stuff in my hotel room, which was quite nice for the cheap price I'd paid, and headed out in search of something tasty.
I require your finest barbeque good sir.
Walking the street near my hotel I repeated the words "BBQ" and "galbi" until someone walked me 2 minutes to a Korean BBQ place which was all of 20m from my hotel's door. It was one of those places where you have to sit on the wooden floor, albeit on a thin cushion, meaning your legs get fairly uncomfortable after a few minutes if you're not accustomed to that style of sitting or not a devotee of yoga-like exercise. A few plates of pork and beef coupled with some soju, mixed with gatorade, helped take my mind off my seating arrangement and acclimbatize to my new surroundings.
I had already planned out in my mind that I'd eat as much Korean BBQ as I could get my hands on during this trip since it's amongst my favourite foreign food types. Not only have I had it on my last trip to Seoul but during my two trips to Hangzhou, China, for an esports event there I had found a place which served it 50m from that venue. With my addiction lying dormant during my time at home in the UK, where it's unavailable either entirely or at least in a 400km radius around my house, I needed to make the most of my opportunities.
Full of gatorade, soju and delicious Korean cooked meats I walked back to my hotel at around 7pm local time and promptly fell into slumber until about 6am the next morning.
Crazy Foreigner MSL viewing party. Who is driving? OMG bear is driving?! How can that be?!?!
Armed with my rental phone filled with the numbers of other TeamLiquid users who had made their intentions of attending the Finals clear, via another thread, I set off at around 11am for our meeting place at 성북역 (Seongbuk station) on Line 1. Based on confirmed attendances I was expecting to meet 6 people in total to attend the event with, 5 of whom I had #s for. I got to the station around 12 and our meeting time was set for 12:30pm.
While I sat on a bench waiting, and listening to the entire 'wait what - the notorious xx' album, a middle-aged Korean man approached me and starting asking me questions about where I was from and what I was doing in South Korea, presumably since I was wearing a Pittsburgh Steelers NFL jersey and was obviously a non-Korean with my pale skin and dark blond hair. He explained that he was a journalist and had been to the UK before, to Birmingham. In all honestly it was a fairly boring conversation, being as Birmingham isn't at all close to the area I live in and having been through countless similar conversations over the years, but it passed a little time.
The only point of note being how blown away he was that I was in Korea solely to watch live StarCraft. From my experiences this trip and on my previous one I've found that the reaction from South Koreans that you're a BW nerd is usually surprise mixed with a little confusion as to why you'd give a fuck about the Korean scene. Anyway that general sentiment has its upsides as it means you're much more likely to be featured on camera during crowd reactions, as any VOD watcher can attest to.
At 12:20 I went to the station exit and began my wait for my 6 nerd comrades. All of a minute or two later an Asian looking guy walks right past me wearing a Hwaseung Oz jersey so I stop him and ask if he is there to watch the MSL final. He tells me he is and I find out this is DarthThienAn, one of the 6 people I am waiting on. After talking for only a minute or so I see a white guy walking up wearing a TeamLiquid jersey and ask him the same question, finding out that that is gorchiza. This Bulgarian fellow, listening to liquid drum and bass in his headphones, was the next of my awaited companions. From there the arrivals came thick and fast.
From three we quickly became five as izolight and OopsOopsBaby joined us in quick succession. izolight was a Swiss guy who had not actually even expressed the intention of joining our viewing party, rather a German friend of his had stated he would be attending the finals and I had msg'd his account with the details of our meeting, which he had not responded to. He would be the first of a few surprise guests to join the adventure. OopsOopsBaby was a Singaporean who shyly showed me his phone, which had @OopsOopsBaby written on it, to show me his username.
With 4 of the 6 originally planned already arrived we moved within 1 of being able to set off as Tomred87 made his presence known. Thankfully we had a fluent Korean speaker amongst the group finally, though a number of the other members were students of that mathematical looking language. The last person we were waiting on, or so we thought, was ggggbabybabybaby, who I was assuming knew the way to the venue since he had suggested the meeting spot. He had SMS'd me to say he would be 15 minutes later and so we were expecting him any second.
Are you gee gee gee gee baby baby baby?
Every person who walked up looking directly at us I would ask "Are you ggggbabybabybaby?", commenting to the others each time the disportionately high number of TL usernames which are fairly embarassing/mad nerdy to say outloud in a social context. Believe it or not the next 4 people were all not the conspicuously absent ggggbabybabybaby! Like some kind of demented Konglish K-Pop chorus line I repeated my question as we were joined by a swedish guy and his blonde girlfriend, a guy who looked like a Korean chobopeon and an under-the-drinking-age LastPrime. Like facing sAviOr in a 2006 TvZ our control group found ourselves suddenly surrounded by lurkers. Convincing every to continue to wait, based on the fact I didn't know the directions to the venue and neither did they, we were finally joined by ggggbabybabybaby about 20 minutes later. We then set off in the direction of the venue, the exact location way it turned out nobody knew.
Being as the final was scheduled for a 17:00 start and it was only about 13:05 we first looked for a Korean BBQ place to eat and chat before the event, having agreed to get some lunch. The first place we found said Korean Barbeque on the sign but turned out to be closed, the latter being the case with the next place we went to also. After agreeing that we may as well walk to the venue first and check out the situation we headed to the Kwangwoon University Auditorium and signed up for some kind of ABC Mart raffle, which we mistook for priority seating. Then we began the search for somewhere to eat. I was a little dismayed at the thought we might not be able to find Korean BBQ but all of 30m up the road we found a place which was open and serving that very kind of food. Bundling in with our group of 11 people we sat at three tables, pushed together, and once more it was time to test my leg stamina as this was another sit-on-the-floor place.
Unleash the BBQ and soju
Nobody could agree on how much food we needed so I asked Tomred87, our designated Korean speaker, to just order 9-10 dishes since I was really hungry and we could always just get more if we needed extra. I asked if anyone wanted soju and only two other people said they did. Everyone else either said they didn't want to drink it or that they were underage, in LastPrime's case. Of course when the soju arrived suddenly every single person at the table except one took an initial shot's worth. As the meal went on most people had at least 2-3. LastPrime, at least I assume he was LastPrime since he had also said in PM he was underage, might have even had more. Funny how that works eh?
So with the girders of our souls loosened with some Korean liquor different groups began chatting about Korea, various sports and the upcoming final. The Korean chobopeon doppleganger (see lunch picspam) turned out to have gone to school in Massachusetts and supported the Boston Celtics so I had a discussion with him about the 2010 NBA Finals and commiserated, despite being a Lakers fna, on the fact the Celtics could well have three-peated if they hadn't had Garnett injured in '09 and Perkins in '10. I also made my opinion clear what a retarded move trading Perkins this year was. I had hoped ggggbabybabybaby, the token Canadian, had been following hockey so I would have someone to talk to about the current Stanley Cup playoffs with but it turned out he hadn't been following at all.
+ Show Spoiler [Lunch picspam] +
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Our talk about BW went all over the place as we discussed ZerO's chances, his fairly hilarious implication that he had been practicing with an almost-as-good-as-Flash fantasy and Bisu, whom I bring up in every conversation about BW with everyone due to my rampant obsession with the DT dagger. Everyone at dinner agreed that ZerO was going to lose and that Flash would likely win 3-1. I think only one or two were even cheering for ZerO, with enough Flash fanboys in tow to make that a minority opinion.
Around 15:05 we headed out for the short walk back to the venue, stopping off only for some drinks as a number of people inevitably bought Pocari Sweat as though they had finally found the elixir of eternal life itself. I stocked up on more Gatorade, even though I'd drunk plenty with my soju. Back at the venue we found a huge queue of people and simultaneously discovered that we didn't have any kind of seating and had to wait at the back. The Flash queue was smaller than the ZerO queue believe it or not, a fact we put down to Flash fans having seen a ton of finals now and ZerO fans likely being in the pre-seated fanclub. As we waited in the queue we were joined by couple of other Foreigners and TL users. FuRong, who had been unable to make our earlier meeting time due to being busy until around 3, found us.
The more the merrier
We were also joined by someone from Seattle whose name escapes me but who was half-Asian and sat next to me during the event itself. My memories for names which aren't usernames isn't very good so anyone who was a lurker in our group went nameless in my memory banks. As the queue moved forwards somehow two lines converged into one and about 10 Korean kids got between the first 6-7 people in the group. Then about 4-5 more kids squeezed in front me and the guy I will refer to as Seattle guy, for lack of an actual name. This actually turned out to be an acceptable situation since the group at the front included three Asians, the second group was the Swedish guy and his gf and the last group was Seattle guy and I.
Pissing in the presence of God
Being full of soju, gatorade and now another bottle of gatorade, which I'd drunk due to the heat outside, I found myself needing the toilet so Seattle guy and I left our stuff on the seats and headed out before the event began. In the almost empty men's room we relieved ourselves as Flash walked in and went to the opposite corner urinal and let out his pre-game litre of Pocari Sweat. I quietly told Seattle guy to look over his left shoulder at who was in the corner. We left without saying anything directly to God though as I personally find it quite obnoxious when people assume they should be allowed to impose on the private lives of celebrities when they are off the clock, purely because they happen to be in the same place at the same time. If it's during a game or in a designated signing session afterwards then it's one thing to approach the person but in this scenario, especially when the individual in question is mentally preparing himself to make history, I think it's better to leave them alone.
I'd actually met Flash briefly at the WCG in LA in 2010 where I'd interviewed him. Plus I actually find the people behind the names not particularly fascinating. What's fascinating for me is what they can do in the server, that's where their brilliance lies. Outside of the server you're just obsessing over a South Korean teenage boy imo, which is a little strange.
Back at our seats we began discussing the upcoming event and I found, to my delight, that Seattle guy was more knowledgable about BW strategy than I was. Being as the final itself turned out to be fairly underwhelming in terms of competition and the anti-climactic nature of the ending, which should have been epic as history was made, it actually elevated my viewing experience a lot to be able to discuss back and forth with someone about what we were seeing. It reminded me of the best moments of reading a live report thread as you watch a stream, except without people just stating things you can see with your own eyes "Hive just went down" and being ridiculously delusional fanboys one way or another
Let the show begin
Video of the opening ceremony w/ pyrotechnics
Video of Flash and ZerO introducing themselves to their fans
The show began with some pyrotechnics and whatnot as the two players were introduced and came out to stand opposite each other on the stage. As ZerO stood there I commented to Seattle guy that he looked nervous having to stare down Flash. When the players introduced themselves to their respective fan groups you could hear the noise of each group. The ZerO fans definitely were louder, despite probably being less in number. I think the Flash fans felt that their player needed their support less as it seemed like an obvious win for him in light of his accomplishments and ZerO being in his first ever final.
A guy in some ridiculous fashion which included a Colonel Sanders tie, a waistcoat, white gloves and a straw hat had come out before the opening ceremony and screamed things at us in Korean, in the Flash section, about how we were to cheer for flash, with which exact words and at what time. He then demonstrated as he blew his whistle and someone played a drum to which we had to chant something like "1-2-3 Le Young Ho" or whatever it was. Suffice it to say that that particular chant got mildly irrating about 5 minutes in.
Being as Monte Cristo is widely accepted to be a Zerg favoured map Seattle guy and I had agreed that ZerO had to win that map to even hope to make it more than 3 map series. After an early SCV kill via some drone micro it seemed like ZerO had come out with a set strategy. Amusingly we pondered what Flash was doing with his timings as he put down a Starport. I commentated that it would be hilarious if he decided to go Valkyries, referencing the game against Jaedong in one of the 2010 finals when Flash had done just that and defeated his muta opening.
Astonishing Flash did just that as he went Valks and defeated ZerO's mutas and winning game 1. We commented how if you only watched Flash use Valkyries you'd think they were overpowered but when you use them yourself they seem to be piloted by morons who don't always fire when you command.
In Game 2 the series finally seemed to have gotten competitive as ZerO got the game to go longer, getting defilers out, even if Flash continually ran by his bases with Vultures. Flash continued to macro up units and then we saw the hilarious ZerO queens attack which did the maximum possible damage it pretty much could have and was followed by ZerO immediately gging. What made it so funny is that not only had ZerO's strategy clearly completely failed vs. Flash but a few people in the crowd seemed to think it was Flash who had gg'd initially and it was now 1-1, rather than 2-0 for Flash.
When Game 3 began it seemed really apparent that Flash was simply going to roll over ZerO to a sweep. ZerO's face had none of its impish signature smile and he looked very dejected, like a man who had found himself on the wrong side of historical inevitability. Game 3 again saw Flash pull out Valkyries and win as only Flash seems able to. Discussing the game afterwards we arrived at the hilarious realisation that ZerO had bragged, albeit not directly, about having practiced against fantasy and Flash had in return played fantasy-style, with Valkyries and Vultures, but to a level beyond the SKT Terran.
I don't know how much of that was decided for those reasons on Flash's part but it's a pretty epic way to destroy someone, while also making fantasy look like he isn't even in the same class. Despite being an SKT fan it reminded me of Jordan's 3 point display against the Trailblazers in the 1992 NBA finals where he had shown that he could outplay Drexler in even the area of the SG game people said 'Clyde the glide' had an advantage over 'his airness'.
During all three games the white members of our group had all been featured at some point on camera/stream. Seattle guy and I appeared in the third game at 22:00, see below:
After the game we met on the stairs and waited for the raffle to be called, ggggbabybabybaby ending up winning a $100 ABC Mart voucher. After that those of us who were going home left and the rest of us headed in search of another Korean BBQ place to get some food and talk BW like the most nerdliest of nerds. We went to the first place we had tried, with the words in English on the sign, and sat down and got menus before realising, like simpletons, that since there were no hotplates on the tables, ventilation or smells of food coming from any of the tables that this was one of those places where you just order the BBQ and they cook it in the back before bringing it to you on plates.
We made our orders of different dishes and more soju. LastPrime asked if we could handle hot food as he looked at a dish on the menu. I asked him to ask the woman waiting on us how hot it was on a scale of 1-10. He laughed and didn't do that, ordering it instead. Once that specific dish came he found out one bite in that it was way too hot for him and spent the rest of the meal gradually eating it while pausing for 5-10 minute breaks between bites to breathe heavily as his tongue radiated a mixture heat. I would describe the flavour as physical pain with a hint of chicken.
We discussed the MSL final, Flash, the recent progamer girl scandals and other stuff as we burned off a few more hours. I asked everyone if they would have just gone to the event on their own if I hadn't made the thread on TL and they all basically agreed they would have, which is kind of absurd but also understandable
+ Show Spoiler [Photos of people who weren't at…] +
I asked who wanted to attend the KT vs. SKT Proleague game the next day but only three people confirmed they would. We all said our goodbyes and people headed off on their various trains for wherever. Tomred87 was headed for the same place as me, Nowon-gu, so we agreed to go out and get something to drink once we got back. We went to a bar and got some cocktails and talked for a while about Korea.
SPL KT Rolster vs. SKT Telecom 1 and an offense against God!
The next morning, Sunday, I got up and headed off for Mullae to meet people for the Proleague. When I arrived nobody was there. One person, whose number I didn't have, simply didn't turn up, another I called but said he wasn't coming and the final guy said he was gonna be late and probably couldn't stay due to needing to meet a girl. I set off by myself for the venue. It's surprising to me people described it as hard to find since you basically walk in a straight line from exit 4 and you'll get there eventually. Inside I went up to floor 3 and to the MBCgame center. The studio was still being setup, since it was 11:30 and the match wasn't until 13:00, so I waited in the lobby area.
There were about 6-10 Korean girls who looked between 13 and 17 waiting around. Some seemed to be in charge of a fanclub and were talking to the one guy in attendance, the rest waited on non-moving escalators and around. As the Koreans buzzed around, looked at some scrappy piece of paper and used their cell phones, which seems to be an activity right after breathing in terms of priority for South Korean people, I waited until I would get an idea of when we might be able to go in. Being a shy foreigner surrounded by even more shy teenage Korean fangirls and waiting to watch probably the most awkwardly shy esports player of all time, Bisu, in action it was a slightly strange scenario to say the least
Eventually people formed some kind of line and I was in about 20th place in it. I asked the guy in front of me, who looked sort of like MC with dyed hair, if this was a special fanclub line or anything. He told me it wasn't and that you were supposed to write your name on that scratty piece of paper but that it didn't matter that I hadn't. He then went through the basics of where did I come from and so on. We talked about the NBA for a little bit, since I was wear a Lakers away jersey, and eventually BW.
He was surprised by how much I knew about BW and kept laughing hysterically and saying stuff to his friend in Korean in between our talks. I think he was digging my BM as every time he mentioned a player I'd tell him some of the foreigner perceptions such as Stats having a huge chin, Action being the mafia Zerg, seemingly every TL user being the Western equivalent of the 15 year old Korean fangirls, voting him top of every poll, and so on. He had never heard of TeamLiquid but I told him to check it out some time. He asked if I played SC2 but I told him it sucked and I thought it was vastly less interesting in every respect in comparison to BW. He agreed and continued to laugh.
Spotting the Mafia Zerg in a 7 eleven.
When we got in I took a seat next to the guys I had been stood with, about 4 rows back from the front. Since the games weren't going to start just yet we went off down a fire escape to a 7 eleven around the corner. While in this tiny 7-elevan, one so small you could barely move past someone in the aisles, most of the KT Rolster team walked into the shop to buy snacks. As Stats, HoeJJa, Action and someone else went around the shop I could see the eyes of the Korean guys I was with get really huge and I think one of them said something like "[Someone's name] hwaiting!", at which point that player awkwardly nodded and went back to talking to his team-mates.
Flash wasn't there but as I walked up the fire escape back to the venue I saw him come out of the van and go into the store to buy his Pocari Sweat. Back inside I met ggggbabybabybaby, who had finally arrived, at the door of the venue. He gave me some money he owed me from dinner the night before and we went in. He was supposed to leave any minute to go spend time with a girl but it turned out she had only just woken up so he had much more time than he had expected. While I'd been gone the staff had handed out the blank paper on which you write your cheerful. I got one and borrowed a pen off a guy in front of us, who will be referenced later in a hilarious moment.
Bisu > Flash's wrist
Being as I had cheered for Flash, my 2nd favourite player, the day before but was now about to cheer for Bisu, my favourite player, I decided Flash had had enough love and I would go a different route from the other people writing signs. Whereas everyone else seemed to make fairly obvious cheering signs like "Flower BeSt!" and whatnot I wrote "Flash, Bisu is gonna make you twitch so hard your wrist falls off!!!" and then drew Bisu, with a golden bage in one hand and a DT sword in the other, chopping off Flash's hand, which was clutching his freshly earned golden badge.
ggggbabybabybaby thought the picture was amusing, and appreciated the Bisu likeness, and it seems like the camera man did too as he immediately captured me when the stream began. Later I would find out, from the live report thread, that someone from DES had also snapped a photo of the sign while I'd been talking to ggggbabybabybaby:
Nerd chills all over his body
The games themselves were ok. I confess to mainly mocking how badly the less well known players tended to play in terms of overall strategy during the early matches. The Bisu-Action and Flash-BeSt games were much better, though the former wasn't as close as it might have appeared and the latter saw the MSL curse live on. I forget during which game but at one point something happened like there was a big series of storms on units or reaver scarabs blew up some drones and the guy in front, who had the pen, had suddenly spasmed on his seat in really hilarious fashion. I immediately commented to ggggbabybabybaby that this guy had just got nerd chills and we laughed for about 5 minutes.
Once the games were done we left the venue, not bothering to wait for autographs, since I don't really care about that kind of thing, and went back to the subway station. ggggbabybabybaby went his way and I had the rest of the day to chill out and finish up my trip. I went straight to the Korean BBQ place near my hotel and got a huge meal, trying some additional condiments to those I usually have, at the urgence of the woman who ran it, who didn't speak a word of English and seemed to feel like she had to make me eat my food properly ^^ I don't think she liked me just eatly purely meat, the bean sauce thing and the rock salt type one while drinking copious amounts of soju with Welch's grape soda/Gatorade as mixers.
Lustful glances at chicken
After finishing up I went back to the hotel, took a nice relaxing shower and then went to sleep for the night. I awoke early, due to my timezone being completely off still, and got everything packed and headed off to the airport. I knew there was free wi-fi in Incheon airport so it was worth just going early and surfing while there. I decided after all my delicious Asian cuisine over the course of my trip to finish up with something less classy and get some KFC. As I sat eating my KFC an entire basketball team of black guys from Africa, no really, walked into the restaurant. As each passed my table they had their eyes locked onto my chicken with a fairly disturbing laser-like precision, eye-raping my chicken as it went from my plate to my mouth. I felt mildly violated and also wondered what kind of bizarre racial stereotype I was living in.
Eventually I got onto my flight and we should have been off. Except that a part needed to be replaced in the plane so we were sat on the plane, which got increasingly hot, for around 1hr30 to maybe 2hrs. Once that was done the pilot told us he had taken on more fuel and that we'd fly at a higher altitude and still arrive almost on time. We managed to do just that and I wasn't going to miss my connection, which would have been the last to my airport for that night.
A moment of tilt courtesy of rude French people
Despite for the last hour of the flight the entertainment system screens displaying information that all connecting flights to France had been rebooked and people were to see the ground staff upon landing, and indeed the captain himself repeating that info, when the plane stopped the three French people on board got up before the seatbelt sign had turned off, took out their bags from the overheard and rushed forwards up the aisle.
Of course as all the Korean people got up and the sign went off the French people were stood directly blocking me into my seat, even though they had been seated about 10 rows back from me. This kind of behaviour would tilt me anyway since it's not only rude but obviously counter-productive since the fastest way for everyone collectively to leave the plane is obviously for those at the front to leave first and go row by row until those at the back. On top of that, as previously mentioned, these people had repeatedly been given info that they basically weren't in any kind of as rush since we were only minutes late and they'd been rebooked on later flights.
I tried standing up to get my bag down, since I was in the aisle seat, and of course the French guy nearest me was about 5cm from my face as I did it. He and his group kept looking over at me with some bizarre dirty look that made me want to move to about 1cm distance and say really loudly "Oh, I'm sorry! Am I right in your way at the moment? This must be uncomfortable for you since I realise it's vitally important you leave the plane before me since you don't have a pending connecting flight like me and what not" but I think passive-aggressive behaviour like that, while hilarious, isn't healthy so I simply sat back down bhudda-like until I had the opportunity to move again.
Setting sun
The rest of my trip was standard enough, bearing in mind I've done the final leg from Schipol to my airport many times, in the double digits, in the last 3-4 years. I managed to enjoy watching a few movies since I had bought a cheap adapter to let me plug in my own Sennheiser closed ear headphones rather than have to use the super crap airline headphones, which look like prototype rejects from the walkman factory in 1989. I finally got home, exhausted, and my Korean adventure came to an end. With spiraling thoughts of my arduous journey back, BW sights and the intoxicating afterimages of South Korea's painfully beautiful female citizens in my mind I slipped into a deep sleep.