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TL Climbing - Page 8

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0x64
Profile Blog Joined September 2002
Finland4617 Posts
October 07 2013 18:54 GMT
#141
Yeah, actually they were not distracting at all, the biggest painting was for a kid wall that was separate from the rest of the area.
I didn't even notice the climber painting, and that tree painting wasn't bothering me at the problems were going up over it quite fast.
The thing that bothered me is that the place is less than a year old and it looked like it was 10 years without fixing, patching, cleaning.
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EatThePath
Profile Blog Joined September 2009
United States3943 Posts
October 07 2013 19:08 GMT
#142
I definitely prefer a well-tended gym. Luckily never seen otherwise. ^^
Comprehensive strategic intention: DNE
LuckoftheIrish
Profile Joined November 2011
United States4791 Posts
October 07 2013 19:53 GMT
#143
On October 07 2013 13:44 Epoxide wrote:
Show nested quote +
On October 07 2013 06:27 LuckoftheIrish wrote:
On October 07 2013 03:10 Epoxide wrote:
On October 06 2013 22:56 AeroGear wrote:
I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.

You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.

I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<

Has anyone here tried re-soldering?


It depends on what kind of shoe you're resoling. If it's something like a 5.10 Team or other shoe with a really thin, sensitive sole, you might be better off buying a new pair. Most resolers apply thicker rubbers - 4mm or 5mm - and you'll notice a difference, especially if you're going from a 2.5 or 3mm to a 5mm rubber. If you want to resole something stiffer, a TC Pro or Stoneland or something, then it shouldn't be a big deal. And that's not to say resoling a sensitive shoe is always bad; a friend of mine resoled his black Teams, then bought another pair because the old ones "feel like Solutions." Given that I love Solutions that doesn't sound so bad to me.

Cool, I have the Solutions, I'm unsure how thick the rubber of those are


Solutions are Vibram XS Grip2, 4mm rubber. I think the standard options are usually XS or 5.10 Stealth, so resoling your Solutions is probably completely fine assuming the rand isn't damaged. There's a basic diagnostic image in the spoiler.

+ Show Spoiler +
[image loading]
On Twitter @GosuGamers_LotI | Grubby has a huge head!
ThirdDegree
Profile Joined February 2011
United States329 Posts
October 07 2013 20:31 GMT
#144
I used to boulder all the time but haven't in a number of years. Now that I'm back living in CO, I'm looking to get back in to it (probably just at the bouldering gym for now). Glad to see so many other climbers
I am terrible
Stijx
Profile Blog Joined February 2011
United States804 Posts
October 08 2013 01:44 GMT
#145
I boulder pretty frequently in the Boston Area and at Metrorock! If anyone's from the area
Eschaton
Profile Joined May 2010
United States1245 Posts
October 08 2013 02:04 GMT
#146
Another Bay Area climber here, not surprised we're so well represented in the thread as it seems half the people I meet these days have a membership at missions cliffs or iron works I'm mostly into sport, but learning trad. A friend took me a couple of pitches up El Cap earlier this year, and it's definitely got me motivated to go back and go higher.

Nursing a torn rhomboid/something near it at the moment (yeah, too much climbing =\ ) and it sucks so I won't be able to join in any meetups for the near future. Maybe sometime in 2014! xD
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
October 08 2013 17:55 GMT
#147


so fucking hard
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
garbanzo
Profile Joined October 2009
United States4046 Posts
October 08 2013 18:11 GMT
#148
Adam screams and rages too much for my taste, but man is he a strong climber. That second problem is fucking absurd, with a ridiculously awesome match.
Even during difficult times, when I sat down to play the game, there were times where it felt like god has descended down and played [for me].
Epoxide
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
Magic Woods9326 Posts
October 08 2013 18:13 GMT
#149
On October 09 2013 03:11 garbanzo wrote:
Adam screams and rages too much for my taste, but man is he a strong climber. That second problem is fucking absurd, with a ridiculously awesome match.

Yeah I don't enjoy it either, but considering the problems and routes he climbs, it's understandable
LiquipediaSouma: EU MM is just Russian Roulette. Literally.
IAmWithStupid
Profile Blog Joined February 2013
Russian Federation1016 Posts
October 08 2013 20:21 GMT
#150
I will be in Germany (Hessen, Giessen) for the next two months. My friend showed me a nice place in Wetzlar (Cube-kletterzentrum). If you are interested in meeting and doing some climbing (in Wetzlar of Frankfurt) just PM me. Right now I am around level 4-5. I think any person with a decent physical condition is able to climb 4 or 4+. Looking forward to gain some experience and improve my technique.
Insert wise words here
0x64
Profile Blog Joined September 2002
Finland4617 Posts
October 13 2013 10:39 GMT
#151
Here we go, I made you a little video presentation of the place I go indoor climbing the most, they had some open competition so there was a lot to film. And if not for the climbing, the joy of English butchering alone was enough Enjoy!

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Tufas
Profile Blog Joined April 2010
Austria2259 Posts
October 13 2013 16:17 GMT
#152
Arg I thought this thread was about climbing the TL ladder
Where is my ACE flair
Zyufin
Profile Joined February 2011
United States85 Posts
October 14 2013 03:39 GMT
#153
I really liked your first video, op.
LuckoftheIrish
Profile Joined November 2011
United States4791 Posts
October 15 2013 05:00 GMT
#154
http://instagram.com/p/faf2jvPP6S/

Alex Puccio is scarily, freakishly strong.

The image is from the Portland Boulder Rally. Small-ish comp with a decent prize purse. Finalists were Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, Matt Fultz, Matty Hong, Jon Cardwell and Jimmy Webb in men's, and Alex Johnson, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Isabelle Faus, Nina Williams (<3), Alex Puccio and Angie Payne on the women's side. Some interesting stuff and kinda a different style than you get in most competition climbing. There are some audio issues in the first bit of the video, but it clears up. The climbing starts around 2:14:00 with commentary by the ClimbingNarc and one of the routesetters.
On Twitter @GosuGamers_LotI | Grubby has a huge head!
LuckoftheIrish
Profile Joined November 2011
United States4791 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-10-15 05:39:21
October 15 2013 05:11 GMT
#155
On October 06 2013 20:32 icystorage wrote:
do you really have to man up when wearing 1 size lower climbing shoes? =/ it's very uncomfortable and painful


I missed this post, and I'm sorry I did. The answer is that it depends. :D

First, it depends on what the shoes you're wearing are for. If you're looking for bouldering/sport climbing shoes for overhanging sections, then you'll want tighter, more aggressive shoes. If you're going to be climbing slabs, flatter, stiffer shoes are going to be more ideal. If you're doing longer routes or multipitch climbs, then comfort is more important. Every shoe is different, and every shoe has different performance goals.

Second, it depends on the company you're buying from. Every company has different designers and produces different shoes in different sizings. 5.10 tends to be smaller per size than those of some other companies, for instance, but often have more space in the heel. The other thing is that even within a single company's offerings, shoes aren't necessarily the same size. Try stuff on before you commit. It's not like buying pants.

Material matters too. A fully synthetic shoe will have almost no stretch, but a leather shoe will have half to a full size of stretch in the upper. Be aware of the stretch of your shoe before you buy.

Last, the closure system matters as well. If you have laces, you can customize the fit a bit more. A slipper, meanwhile, will need to be quite tight so as to not come off your foot.

The ideal fit doesn't involve pain. You should have snugness and no dead space, but no pain either.

Here's the other thing about shoes. A lot of really, really proud ascents have been done in footwear that by today's standards would be laughable. But socks didn't stop Lynn Hill from freeing the Nose. And more recently, they didn't stop Steve Lapen from repeating Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d). Don't stress it.
On Twitter @GosuGamers_LotI | Grubby has a huge head!
0x64
Profile Blog Joined September 2002
Finland4617 Posts
October 15 2013 07:51 GMT
#156
There was also a time where people climbed bare feet in Fonts.
It was actually quite fun to see Adam Ondra failing to flash on such classic problem from so long ago. Slabs can really be tricky!
Dump of assembler code from 0xffffffec to 0x64: End of assembler dump.
LuckoftheIrish
Profile Joined November 2011
United States4791 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-10-16 17:45:11
October 16 2013 06:01 GMT
#157
http://sisumasters.fi/live-stream.html

VOD of Sisu Masters, an invitation bouldering comp organized in Finland by Nalle Hukkataival. The four competitors on each side each set a problem and went from there (Dave's is awesome and very non-competition-y). Anna Stohr and Melissa Le Neve, plus two Finish women I can't remember, competed on the women's side. Nalle, Dave Graham, Anthony Gullsten and Killian Fischuber competed on the men's side. Pretty cool competition with some of the most awkward MCing and commentary I've ever heard, including an interview with Dave Graham featuring the interviewer snatching the mic away mid-answer.

Edit: In more news from Finland, Nalle put up a video on his Facebook page that is, to my knowledge, the first look at any of the moves on his Sisu project. The Sisu project is a semi-secret proj of Nalle's, in Finland, that's supposed to be one of the three or so truly next-level projects being pursued in the bouldering world right now. He's been working on it for five (or maybe seven?) years and still hasn't stuck the first move. (The other two megaprojects are Dai Koyamada's Mt. Hiei linkup of V13 roof tufa into V13 roof tufa into V13 roof tufa and Dave Graham's crazy roof project in Switzerland.)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=726322324047991
On Twitter @GosuGamers_LotI | Grubby has a huge head!
Axieoqu
Profile Joined October 2005
Finland204 Posts
October 17 2013 09:50 GMT
#158
On September 27 2013 13:28 AirbladeOrange wrote:
Has anyone here been afraid of heights before starting climbing?

I have grown more and more afraid of heights and that was one (minor) reason why I started climbing again. Sometimes on longer walls towards the top I feel my powers running out much faster than they should be. Sometimes I think my grip wont hold no matter how big jugs there are. Annoying more than anything. I guess focusing on bouldering doesn't help either :D

On October 06 2013 20:32 icystorage wrote:
do you really have to man up when wearing 1 size lower climbing shoes? =/ it's very uncomfortable and painful

In my opinion no. Use shoes that fit well and aren't too painful. When you climb more you will find out if your shoes are lacking and exactly where they are lacking. Then you will know which parts of your shoes you want to be tight and where it doesn't matter that much. Getting too small shoes wont make you any better climber - they might even stop you from climbing altogether.

On October 07 2013 03:10 Epoxide wrote:
Has anyone here tried re-soldering?

I had my shoes resoled and that seems to have bought them at least 50% more lifetime for 30%(?) of the cost. They were otherways in pretty decent shape and don't smell awful either. I thought about buying a new pair but I felt like the old ones have still walls to climb.
0x64
Profile Blog Joined September 2002
Finland4617 Posts
October 17 2013 13:02 GMT
#159
I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing.
Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info.
Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall?
I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...

Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
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FrodaN
Profile Blog Joined October 2010
754 Posts
October 17 2013 13:53 GMT
#160
I stopped climbing back in university when I started trying to cast everything, but I do miss it.

You know Kim Phan, the SC2 Senior eSports Manager, is big into climbing as well. She goes twice or three times a week iirc.
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