On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
Sounds about the same as what happened to me last year. I tried resting 2-3 weeks, I did nothing and applied some of those anti-infection/pain gels. No issues at all except for a slightly weird sensation.
But the pain re-appeared even just as I was riding my bike over to the location (like a 20 minute ride). So I only tried a few moves, felt some minor pain and went back home. On the way back the pain was already getting somewhat uncomfortable.
I spent another month resting and I was about to do some climbing during my vacation but the arm still didn't feel ideal on the first day. Upon hearing about the issues, the doc who was with us gave me some meds and told me to not climb for 2-3 months at the very least or that shit just keeps coming back. Took the meds, didn't climb or bike for 3 months and I was perfectly fine.
Just my experience that may or may not be consistent with whatever's wrong with you.
On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
Sounds about the same as what happened to me last year. I tried resting 2-3 weeks, I did nothing and applied some of those anti-infection/pain gels. No issues at all except for a slightly weird sensation.
But the pain re-appeared even just as I was riding my bike over to the location (like a 20 minute ride). So I only tried a few moves, felt some minor pain and went back home. On the way back the pain was already getting somewhat uncomfortable.
I spent another month resting and I was about to do some climbing during my vacation but the arm still didn't feel ideal on the first day. Upon hearing about the issues, the doc who was with us gave me some meds and told me to not climb for 2-3 months at the very least or that shit just keeps coming back. Took the meds, didn't climb or bike for 3 months and I was perfectly fine.
Just my experience that may or may not be consistent with whatever's wrong with you.
Ok, I think that you had it a step further and yours got inflammatory. I talked with a badminton coach and he was telling that as long as you don't feel anything during rest, the pain is caused be micro-damage in the tendon healing and the new shape creates the pain. He was telling that basically I could continue as long as the pain goes away after the exercise.
yet the fact that a single pull up brings the pain back so easily, I'll take time off, I don't trust it to magically go away by continuing climbing. It's nice to hear that things got fine with you. My wish is to be able to climb a week in France (8-15 November).
It really depends. I had the worst possible pain ever in my right arm tendon but I only rested for one week and I was fine after. Not too sure what to tell you. Definitely rest for one week and be really careful on your first time.
On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
I have had a pain similar to this when i start climbing again after taking an extended break and just rush back into doing stupid stuff (i.e. climbing 6-8 days in a row after not climbing for 4 months). If you have the same kind of injury that i do, what has always helped me is to do antagonistic exercises (push-ups, thera-band exercises), and easy exercises that get blood flow to your arms but that doesn't work the muscles. That way your tendons have a chance to catch up. And then when you start climbing again, (If your tendons hurt after one pull up you definitely need to take some rest, but maybe just a week or two), climb really easy! I mean super easy, like doing a ton of moves on like the easy slab beginner wall of the gym you go to. The point being to try and gently use your tendons, without building your muscle strength. And then, the hard part is to stay away from any difficult climbing for another couple of weeks, and just slowly building up to climbing hard again!
O and I am from Albuquerque, NM. I boulder(V10) and sport climb(5.13c)!
Thread is looking a little dead, so here is some rock porn to breath life into it! http://vimeo.com/47555959
Hopefully this will motivate you to train like a beast, win some world cups, and then casually go out to rocklands and make sending 8A to 8B+ (V11-14) seem like a walk in the park. Or make you feel like a total weakling with no hope of ever being strong...
Edit: does anyone know if you can embed vimeo videos the way you can embed youtube videos?
So, I've watched the video above and I have some questions/general thoughts.
In the middle-ass of somewhere in Russia it is very difficult to find necessary infrastructure for climbing. In the radius of 100km I don't have any gyms for climbing or smth similar. But what I have is itching in my ass I like to climb things, especially vertical ones. Every time I see a rocky hill or mountain I think "Can I climb that?" I told before, in winter I climb a water tower which is covered with ice. In summer I go camping in the mountains/vertical caves. And for me it is all about climbing UP. UP!!! I feel good when I am standing on the ground and 10 minutes later I hang +/-15 meters above. It is like getting orgasmic feelings from climbing.
And then I see people bouldering in videos like one above. To tell the truth I've never done bouldering myself. It seems impossibly hard! But I don't understand how people enjoy doing it. No offense, I just discuss my impressions. When I am 10 meters or more above the ground and I look down adrenalin rushes through my veins. I am scared... I feel alive... While bouldering you can just jump down and you'll be... fine, I guess... Could someone explain me what is the point of going horizontal direction while bouldering?
Again, I am a total newbie in bouldering. I just think that I would get much less emotions from being 1 meter from the ground than climbing up a (rocky) wall.
Edit: I'm talking about Sassback's video-link (I type too slow: 0x64 posted before me)
Because, for some people like myself, climbing is not about the adrenaline rush. This should have been clear considering a few posts here are about how the poster has a fear of heights.
I should add that I boulder because I really enjoy the physical and mental challenge and it's also a great solo (in general) exercise that I find to be lots of fun.
I basically only boulder and the reason is quite simple. I enjoy climbing to the max potential of what my body and mind can do. A boulder problem challenges me both physically and mentally. I love the idea of solving a problem in my mind, figuring out every move, how to position my body, how to grab a hold, where I grab it etc. And then putting my thoughts into fruition through my body. The feeling of accomplishment when you send a problem that is on your max level and something you have been working on for hours, days, weeks, or even months is amazing.
Every aspect of climbing has it's own appeal, I definitely like other types of climbing, I really like trad, and sport + multipitch to some extent. It all depends on the mood I'm in. Bouldering is definitely my go to thing though.
Well, I see... I think I have to go self-critical: I'm too competitive in my outdoor actvities. Somehow I try to turn anything into a competition. When my friend climbs seven seconds faster than me I feel like I lose in an evolutionary race... When I climb I also challenge myself to an edge, mostly physically rather than mentally. With bouldering it seems you need a balance between it. Maybe some day I'll try this out, but I can't promise I'll like it as much as going up the walls.
I am usually very competitive when climbing with friends. Who can manage to figure out a problem first? Who can send it first? Who can do it in the least amount of tries? It's quite fun. I dislike speed climbing, I like crisp refined climbing, rather than quick sloppy climbing.
Climbing is more entertaining than talking about it! I have a dream that some day all TL-ers in this thread will gather together to challenge some rocks, but right now I have to go to sleep! Take care, everyone!
On October 24 2013 04:06 Sassback wrote: Thread is looking a little dead, so here is some rock porn to breath life into it! http://vimeo.com/47555959
Hopefully this will motivate you to train like a beast, win some world cups, and then casually go out to rocklands and make sending 8A to 8B+ (V11-14) seem like a walk in the park. Or make you feel like a total weakling with no hope of ever being strong...
Edit: does anyone know if you can embed vimeo videos the way you can embed youtube videos?
The hatchling is such a beautiful boulder, probably the only one I could have a fair chance at working some moves out on. He didn't look impossible. The camera angle on Sky doesn't make it justice. Those holds are sooooo fucking bad.
I enjoy the mantles since I don't get enough of them. Most of the stuff around me is slopey topout after slopey topout :<. As far as that problem goes, the crux was actually a body tension move followed by a big move to a jug. Mantle was committing but pretty easy
EPT
I like to climb things, especially vertical ones. Every time I see a rocky hill or mountain I think "Can I climb that?" I told before, in winter I climb a water tower which is covered with ice. In summer I go camping in the mountains/vertical caves. And for me it is all about climbing UP. UP!!! I feel good when I am standing on the ground and 10 minutes later I hang +/-15 meters above. It is like getting orgasmic feelings from climbing.
I have a dream that some day all TL-ers in this thread will gather together to challenge some rocks, but right now I have to go to sleep! Take care, everyone!
