I just recently found out more people actually climb on TeamLiquid. This thread is for anyone who climbs. Bouldering, Sport, Trad, Multi-pitch, doesn't matter. Discuss anything about climbing~~
Maybe you can found a climbing partner near you. Sign up to be on the list. Climbers: + Show Spoiler +
Epoxide - Stockholm, Sweden 7b/7b+ boulder, 7a+ sport 0x64 - Tampere, Finland / Fontainebleau, France 4/5 boulder Luckoftheirish - Washington D.C - United States 7b boulder, 6c sport dUTtrOACh - Toronto, Canada boulder CatNzHat - San Francisco, United States V4-V6 boulder, 5.11c/d sport ASoo - Seattle, United States 5.12a/b sport icystorage - Phillippines boulder AeroGear - Montreal, Canada V4 boulder 5.12/+ sport garbanzo - New Jersey, United States boulder sport Culture - San Francisco, United States V5-V6 boulder 5.11-5.12 sport Stratos - Czech Republic boulder sob3k - San Francisco, United States V8 boulder FragKrag - Santa Barbara, United States V4 boulder EatThePath - Davis, United States V4-V5 boulder kerpal - Newcastle, United Kingdom boulder sport EpidemicSC - Riverside, United States V3-V4 boulder 5.11 sport Spykiller - Elverum/Hamar, Norway nojok - Seine, France schaf - Aachen, Germany boulder Axieoqu - Helsinki, Finland 6a boulder/sport? Gonzo103 - Somewhere, Germany Sterling - Seattle, United States V2-V3 boulder IAmWithStupid - Somewhere, Russia iceclimbing Hertzy - Tampere, Finland 6a sport Keniji - Maastricht, Netherlands boulder sharakorr - Singapore V5-V6 boulder 6c sport PhiLtheFisH - Munich, Germany 6b/6b+ boulder sport Rimstalker - Somewhere, Germany 7a boulder/sport? mostevil - Yorkshire, United Kingdom 7a sport Wrongspeedy - Portland, United States GinNtoniC - Stockholm, Sweden boulder/sport? ThirdDegree - Colorado, United States boulder Stijx - Boston, United States boulder Eschaton - Bay Area, United States sport DemonDayz - South Africa 6a/6b boulder EpidemicSC - Santa Barbara, United States V5-V6 boulder 5.11-5.12 sport Arnstein - Trondheim, Norway 6c sport, 5b trad Jetaap - Grenoble, France 6b sport
0x64 - Tampere, Finland / Fontainebleau, France Current level 4-5
Practicing for a month after 15 years pause.
Bonus: Parents living in the Mecca of bouldering, near Fontainebleau. Awesome opportunities to practice on holidays. Fontainebleau rating is quite harder. When I pass a 5, in bleau I struggle to pass a 3.
I don't know what level my climbing is at, since I don't really care, but it sure is fun. Apparently, I'm pretty good at it, but I don't do it to compete.
Great sport. Excellent exercise, and quite thrilling the higher up you get.
On September 05 2013 05:01 dUTtrOACh wrote: I don't know what level my climbing is at, since I don't really care, but it sure is fun. Apparently, I'm pretty good at it, but I don't do it to compete.
Great sport. Excellent exercise, and quite thrilling the higher up you get.
I only started climbing a few months ago (July), but it seems my circus experience (flying & swinging trapeze, tumbling, russian bar, etc..) gives me a big headstart. Mostly bouldering v4-v6, and a bit of sport climbing at 5.11c/d. I climb indoors most of the time as I don't have a car to get around, but every once in awhile I do some bouldering outdoors in San Francisco.
I live in the East Bay Area, specifically Emeryville (same town as some of the EG guys moved to recently, maybe they'll start climbing). I climb indoors at Berkeley Ironworks every Tuesday and Thursday, and I try to make it down to Dogpatch Boulders on Sundays (amazing indoor bouldering only gym in the Dogpatch District in SF, just half a block away from where LANHammer was hosted).
If more people in the Bay Area are interested in climbing I'd love to organize a get-together for a day of climbing with fellow gamers.
Sweet, thanks for the thread and the heads-up, Epoxide.
I'm in Seattle, WA, USA. Just moved here, though, and haven't settled into a new climbing routine. Getting on that as soon as I have a job to pay for it .
I do mostly sport climbing, mostly topping out around 5.11b/c, with occasional forays into the 5.12a/b range if I can find a nice piece of slab (so I guess like 7a is my level on the EU scales?). I've been pretty lazy the last 6 months or so though, so I'm probably climbing below that level now.
Philippines Level? idk, I haven't gauged myself yet I focus mostly on bouldering at our legendary House of Pain! + Show Spoiler +
thanks for the thread
for something to talk about
me and my mates will be watching this :D our most experienced friend was supposed to enter the novice category but unfortunately (or fortunately) he found a job and was unable to continue to train for it. his job was in an another city. i'll try to post pics and share my experience about the first comp i'm gonna be spectating i'm also hyped to see our pros in real life!
On September 05 2013 05:01 dUTtrOACh wrote: I don't know what level my climbing is at, since I don't really care, but it sure is fun. Apparently, I'm pretty good at it, but I don't do it to compete.
Great sport. Excellent exercise, and quite thrilling the higher up you get.
No location ?
Oh, I'm on Toronto's East End. Whatever the lowest ranking is, you can put that for me
Currently in NJ, climbing at Doylestown Rock Gym. Look for the kid with a TL logo on his water bottle. I mostly boulder, but I know how to belay for top rope. I would love to have more experience outdoors, but I have no gear, and would also love to learn how to lead climb.
San Francisco, California (specifically dogpatch/mission cliffs). I climb around v5-v6, my co-founder ( https://sensortower.com ) climbs v6-v7. Lead 5.11s-early 5.12 I think that's around 7a~b in eurospeak! Feel free to ping me !
It's a wild shot but if any of you guys happen to be in the Czech Republic and you're into outdoor boulder/climbing, I'll be happy to guide you around since I've been to a few places. We'll be drinking pilsner while watching some old BW by the campfire. Homo is expected but keep it for the players/commentators/bunkie only.
So.. Czech Republic, lame outdoor boulder/climbing + outdoor broodbar. without the bar
On September 05 2013 06:24 CatNzHat wrote: Thank you for creating this thread!
I only started climbing a few months ago (July), but it seems my circus experience (flying & swinging trapeze, tumbling, russian bar, etc..) gives me a big headstart. Mostly bouldering v4-v6, and a bit of sport climbing at 5.11c/d. I climb indoors most of the time as I don't have a car to get around, but every once in awhile I do some bouldering outdoors in San Francisco.
I live in the East Bay Area, specifically Emeryville (same town as some of the EG guys moved to recently, maybe they'll start climbing). I climb indoors at Berkeley Ironworks every Tuesday and Thursday, and I try to make it down to Dogpatch Boulders on Sundays (amazing indoor bouldering only gym in the Dogpatch District in SF, just half a block away from where LANHammer was hosted).
If more people in the Bay Area are interested in climbing I'd love to organize a get-together for a day of climbing with fellow gamers.
Sweet, I just moved to the SF bay and boulder at Dogpatch most days! Should say hi!
I've bouldered consistent V8 in shape, but am in V6-V7 territory right now after being pretty sick for a while. Girlfriend also boulders with me, she's V4-V5.
If you see a 6ft white dude with a shaved head climbing with red shoes just inconspicuously say "TL" in a loud voice and see if I react :D
Take an introduction course, usually they last the whole day wether inside in a gym or outside on a cliff. They will provide all the necessary: ropes, harness, shoes (sometimes) and most important of all the supervision of an experienced climber.
You'll know fast enough wether you like climbing or not. The last thing we need is more "climbers" with little or no experience...Any accident due to negligence risks removing access to outdoor routes so better do it right.
On September 06 2013 07:42 AeroGear wrote: 50$ for good climbing shoes? More like 120$.
Take an introduction course, usually they last the whole day wether inside in a gym or outside on a cliff. They will provide all the necessary: ropes, harness, shoes (sometimes) and most important of all the supervision of an experienced climber.
You'll know fast enough wether you like climbing or not. The last thing we need is more "climbers" with little or no experience...Any accident due to negligence risks removing access to outdoor routes so better do it right.
Evolv Defy VTR or La Sportiva Tarantula(ce) are great for beginners honestly and can be found for around $60-80 depending on whether they're on sale or not. I also see a lot of Scarpa stuff on sale all the time on theclymb
Put me on the list! Even though I haven't climbed in a few months. t_t I used to go all the time with my friend at Bridges near Berkeley, got up to V4-V5 over about a year since starting.
Seems like there is a real opportunity for same bay area TL climbing community. XD
I really need to get back into it.
Btw I live in Davis, does anyone know any good outdoor locations around here? Like less than a half hour? I'd love to be able to bike out to a rock and hit it for an hour a couple times a week, but it's just flat around here and I hate driving to Sac to get to pipeworks.
I've been climbing for a few months at the cheapest place imaginable here in newcastle, it's £2.40 to climb, 3-4 friends go most weeks. But I haven't even shelled out for shoes yet.
I enjoy it, but I also fence, so I don't need another sport that's going to cost me too much money!
fun story, the place we climb has automatic belay systems, which are great, but I was about 7-8m up a wall, realised I was too tired to make it to the top and then let go. Wasn't clipped in!
Thankfully I tangled in the wire on the way down, so got some bad friction burn on my leg, but landed flat on my back and wasn't injured at all.
On September 06 2013 07:42 AeroGear wrote: 50$ for good climbing shoes? More like 120$.
Take an introduction course, usually they last the whole day wether inside in a gym or outside on a cliff. They will provide all the necessary: ropes, harness, shoes (sometimes) and most important of all the supervision of an experienced climber.
You'll know fast enough wether you like climbing or not. The last thing we need is more "climbers" with little or no experience...Any accident due to negligence risks removing access to outdoor routes so better do it right.
Beginners totally should go for cheap shoes. The size of the feet and the technicality on beginner routes dont need any of the expensive features or perfect fit that spendy shoes buy you, and its better that they are nice and comfortable. All the modern shoe companies make solid shoes now that are less than $90 or even $50-70.
On September 06 2013 09:11 kerpal wrote: I've been climbing for a few months at the cheapest place imaginable here in newcastle, it's £2.40 to climb, 3-4 friends go most weeks. But I haven't even shelled out for shoes yet.
I enjoy it, but I also fence, so I don't need another sport that's going to cost me too much money!
fun story, the place we climb has automatic belay systems, which are great, but I was about 7-8m up a wall, realised I was too tired to make it to the top and then let go. Wasn't clipped in!
Thankfully I tangled in the wire on the way down, so got some bad friction burn on my leg, but landed flat on my back and wasn't injured at all.
CHECK YOUR KNOTS!
I'm friends with the son of the owner of the Portland Rock Gym in Oregon. They installed autobelays and within the first month they had a guy doing laps at the end of his workout get on a route and climb it completely unclipped. He realized at the top but was so pumped out that he couldn't downclimb and fell the whole wall and broke his legs. There was also a second guy who did the same thing but was more experienced and was able to grab the autobelay they sent up to him and ride it down safely. Now they have big red panels attached to the rope at the bottom covering the starting feet so its pretty much impossible not to notice you aren't clipped before you start. Pay attention guys.
Hey guys! Ive been climbing for about 4 months now at my local gym (Hangar 18 in Riverside, CA) and I do mostly bouldering lately (around the V3-V4 level) but i can do some of the top ropes in the 5.11s. I live in the inland empire right now, but I will be moving to San Luis Obispo fairly soon so I hope to find a gym or some outdoor climbers around the area. Let me know if you wanna go climbing sometime and live in SLO county area.
PS: La Sportiva Tarantulace are indeed great shoes for the beginner, not overly uncomfortable and pretty easy arch to adjust to. Any experienced climbers have a good bouldering shoe to recommend? Ive been looking at some of the evolv rock shoes but am not sure yet (my budget tops out around 120$ right now ^^).
I like La Sportiva Solution the best, great fit, great for having toes on small stuff, great for toe-hooking, I don't love the heel that much though. 5.10 Dragon is my second favourite shoe, has everything Solution has, but laces really suck The heel is better for hooking in my opinion, just remember to buy a big size, they are quite small.
On September 06 2013 18:27 icystorage wrote: do you buy shoes that fits or tight? i head you should buy one shoe size smaller.
You really want your toes to go to the very end of your shoe and even "curl down" so to speak. So basically comfort is not your #1 priority, as most people (me included) find some degree of discomfort with their shoes, which is why you will often see climbers with their shoes off when they are not about to climb ^^
On September 06 2013 18:16 Epoxide wrote: I like La Sportiva Solution the best, great fit, great for having toes on small stuff, great for toe-hooking, I don't love the heel that much though. 5.10 Dragon is my second favourite shoe, has everything Solution has, but laces really suck The heel is better for hooking in my opinion, just remember to buy a big size, they are quite small.
Thanks for the advice man, I've had a good experience with my current Sportivas so I will definitely give the Solution a look!
I climbed last year, 6, near the Seine in Normandy + Show Spoiler +
However I will visit a friend soon and will climb a bit in the Alpes, he has just moved there because he's really fund of climbing, so I should have a good time.+ Show Spoiler +
On September 06 2013 18:27 icystorage wrote: do you buy shoes that fits or tight? i head you should buy one shoe size smaller.
You want tight shoes once you've deformed them, so very tight when you buy them, so you have to know before if the shoes you buy deform a lot or not.
I've been climbing for years now, but with getting my first girlfriend I got lazier and lazier and now I'm struggling with the easiest routes in my boulder hall - bronze league so to say. I'm aiming for gold for now
I'm currently bouldering in my town of Aachen, Germany @ Moove (German site)
If you don't know, there is an organization called IFSC who organizes boulder cups all around the world, streams it on youtube (also lead climbing and speed climbing, sometimes even paraclimbing!) -> check this out <- I'm quite sure they are also trying to get climbing into the olympics.
edit: for shoes, I'm really cursed. I have extra-broad feet so trying out shoes in the stores usually results in me buying them 1 or 2 sizes too large for my foot length... any suggestions on that?
if you are starting climber around V3 and below then just go for a shoe thats cheap and fits comfortably but snug.
Once you start getting advanced and want a technical shoe, fit will depend on material. A leather shoe will stretch considerably to the shape of your foot after a few sessions and sweating inside it. So you will want to buy an extremely tight shoe when trying it on at the store. You want something that you is difficult to cram your foot in. It should be quite painful the first few times you climb in it, you will wonder if you have made a terrible mistake. Just try to keep it on as long as possible and by the third or fourth time out it should start feeling actually comfortable and fitted to your foot. I recommend leather shoes because of this stretching leads them to a very custom close fit. If you buy synthetic it will stretch much less, so go for something as tight as you can but without causing pain.
for shoe width on wide feet you just are going to have to try on several models. If you can't get your foot in then you cant get your foot in. The most important part is that your big toe is positioned snugly against the inner tip of the shoe. This is what you will be standing on on small footholds. If your big toe can wiggle sideways the "edge" of the shoe can fold and deform during a climb and slide you right off of your feet.
On September 06 2013 06:15 AirbladeOrange wrote: Any advice or tips on how to get into the sport?
head down to your local climbing gym and take their intro to climbing class (the all have one). You'll learn how to tie in as a climber and belayer and get some very basic pointers on technique. If you enjoy it, then keep climbing, invest in a pair of shoes and maybe a chalk bag and some chalk, and then keep on climbing.
Been doing top-rope and boulder indoors for some two years. This summer I've been trying out some rock but oh man my nerdy skin can't handle that yet. Be sure to check out http://www.27crags.com/ for some topos if you're interested in your local outdoors climbing spots. Especially in Scandinavia and Europe.
On September 06 2013 06:15 AirbladeOrange wrote: Any advice or tips on how to get into the sport?
head down to your local climbing gym and take their intro to climbing class (the all have one). You'll learn how to tie in as a climber and belayer and get some very basic pointers on technique. If you enjoy it, then keep climbing, invest in a pair of shoes and maybe a chalk bag and some chalk, and then keep on climbing.
take a friend and talk them into doing it with you.
Yo sign me up! Climbing for nearly 15 years now, sometimes more sometimes less. Today I am going for a two days climbing trip to Nürnberg. Yeah FrankenJura its awesome! If I make some pictures I will post them.
I just realised after today's boulder session that I'm kinda weak in my shoulders. Tried a 7c where the crux was a shoulder compression move between two crimps. Couldn't for the life of me hold on, and my shoulders hurt after >_< Anyone know a good way of training your shoulders for things like that?
I prefer ice climbing. Can't say about the level, my friends and I just climb the water tower which is covered with ice in winter. Unfortunately, we don't have any specialized infrastructure.
I always try to visit the World Cup in Kirov to look at the high level professionals and take a shot by myself after the event is over. Btw, koreans are good not only in SC2, but also in ice climbing. But russians are better
Sign me up too. Tampere, Finland, taken a long (over a year) hiatus lately but I guess I'm around 6A (French/Finnish indoor grading) boulder and top-rope. I also know lead climbing, just never found a partner to do it with.
I remember when my hiatus started, I just completely lost my nerve, to the point that I was scared to let go of the wall after completing a top-rope climb. It was a while after I'd started bottom-rope climbing, too. Has anyone else got that?
I don't know as I have roped climbed only once, but the strange thing in bouldering is that once I pass a problem, I am more scared about it than before.
Also thinking about climbing or watching youtube climbing video (free solo are the worst) I get sweaty hands and strange sensations in my feet.
On September 07 2013 23:36 Epoxide wrote: I just realised after today's boulder session that I'm kinda weak in my shoulders. Tried a 7c where the crux was a shoulder compression move between two crimps. Couldn't for the life of me hold on, and my shoulders hurt after >_< Anyone know a good way of training your shoulders for things like that?
Wide grip pullups? Depends what angle you're talking about.
On September 07 2013 23:36 Epoxide wrote: I just realised after today's boulder session that I'm kinda weak in my shoulders. Tried a 7c where the crux was a shoulder compression move between two crimps. Couldn't for the life of me hold on, and my shoulders hurt after >_< Anyone know a good way of training your shoulders for things like that?
Wide grip pullups? Depends what angle you're talking about.
Uh it's quite hard to explain, I could take a picture next time I'm at it. The right handhold is a wrong tilted crimp under a box that is 45 degrees overhanging. The left hand hold is a pinch/bad crimp that's just flat. The only foot is between them on another box on the right side of it, 35 degrees overhanging. Uh, really doesn't say much.
On September 06 2013 06:31 0x64 wrote: Find closest climbing spot, use 50 bucks to get good climbing shoes. Really something that is easy to pick up with a friend.
I don't think there is a climbing scene where I live. I have never heard of a place for it, I don't know of anyone here who does it, and my searches have come up short. Seems like I live in the wrong place for it.
Edit: I found a place where you don't use ropes or anything that's 45 minutes away. And a place that is set to open in several months that is even closer.
Maastricht, Netherlands. I'll update my level later. I do both bouldering/climbing inside and outside.
For shoes there are some basic tips that have been mentioned here. Go to a shop that have a lot of models (at least in germany, the shops inside the climbing gyms have the most models) try them on (all of them). Make a pre selection. Try them at the wall and then settle for one. It's quite some effort but there is no way around it. Every feet is different and the shoes have to fit well. If you start climbing you probably don't have to do that as your first shoes won't hold very long and you don't have much idea what to look for. But do it soon as shoes and footwork is key. Removing bad habbits you have because your shoes were bad can be quite hard. (Dont worry tho. That only applies when you are climbing with bad shoes for years I'd guess.)
By the way anyone has good book recommendations? "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistake" is nice. Nothing ground breaking but still an eye opener. Focus is heavily on psychological and organisation (of training) and only very bit on technique (so not necessarily something for absolute beginners).
If i go on another climbing trip I'll definitely look in here again to figure out if I can meet up with somebody from here.
In the Bay until at least 9/13. Have two pads with me, and interested in doing some bouldering at Castle Rock. Going to be trying mostly v0-v5ish stuff
Anyone have any good tips on how to develop stronger fingers? I'm having a hard time on any boulders with crimps, I'm doing pretty well on most other stuff.
On September 05 2013 07:06 icystorage wrote: Philippines Level? idk, I haven't gauged myself yet I focus mostly on bouldering at our legendary House of Pain! + Show Spoiler +
On September 09 2013 14:58 EpidemicSC wrote: Anyone have any good tips on how to develop stronger fingers? I'm having a hard time on any boulders with crimps, I'm doing pretty well on most other stuff.
Time and regular training, hanging with the tip of your fingers on every occasion. Carrying shopping bag with the tip of 2 fingers... Maybe even having some finger strength tools on the computer desk :D but I don't know about those.
A tennis ball can work well. Just compress it in intervals (but start slowly and don't overdo it or you might fuck up your fingers, probably more so if you play BW ;; - yeah it fucking sucks.).
Or, if you have the option and you're somewhat dedicated to climbing, set up something like this for the rainy days
Personally I'll take 30minutes of climbing over 1hour of any kind of workout. There's way too many muscles at work in every move and your body is twisted into all directions + every move counts as experience, especially outdoors.
Personally I don't recommend fingerboards or campus rungs for your tendons until you climb at least 6b+ boulder. Squeezing on something is probably the best including carrying bags with your fingers and just climbing.
Like people have told here, tendons don't get stronger overnight, they are not like muscles so it's important to just take time and enjoy the climbing.
On September 09 2013 14:41 FragKrag wrote: In the Bay until at least 9/13. Have two pads with me, and interested in doing some bouldering at Castle Rock. Going to be trying mostly v0-v5ish stuff
On September 09 2013 14:41 FragKrag wrote: In the Bay until at least 9/13. Have two pads with me, and interested in doing some bouldering at Castle Rock. Going to be trying mostly v0-v5ish stuff
let me know if you're interested
What day do you want to do this? :D
I'm free all day all week pretty much, but I was thinking anytime between Tues-Thurs
On September 08 2013 00:51 IAmWithStupid wrote: I prefer ice climbing. Can't say about the level, my friends and I just climb the water tower which is covered with ice in winter. Unfortunately, we don't have any specialized infrastructure.
I always try to visit the World Cup in Kirov to look at the high level professionals and take a shot by myself after the event is over. Btw, koreans are good not only in SC2, but also in ice climbing. But russians are better
Today I checked out a little patch I never knew about that's nearby, Putah_Creek_Boulders. Lots of variety on a few different nice sized large boulders next to the stream below the dam. Good thing there were plenty of super easy routes so I could warm up for castle rock in two days. XD
If anyone wants to come try these sometime or the nearby Vacaville boulders let me know. Plenty of challenging stuff as well that I was not at all equipped to handle today, lol.
It depends a lot on what type of climb it is and what type of style you have and what type of feet you have. I love La Sportiva Solution for everything.
I'm a really big fan of my Anasazi VCS. Really good edging and good enough smearing. Not sure how well they would do in cracks though. I've tried a few shoes with aggressive downturns and just wasn't a big fan
I live about 45 minutes away from the Frankenjura.
Outdoors, I climb 7s max, indoors, I have done some 8s (5.11d or 7a).
Currently using mostly Boreal Jokers.
edit on shoes: doesn't fucking matter. my buddy climbs 9s (5.12c/7c) indoors with some 2 year old boreal something with his toe poking out, the know-it-all climbing crowd called these 'multi-pitch shoes for beginners' since they are so comfortable. /edit
This was from a climbing holiday in Italy at Lake Garda.
edit2: I live close to Nuernberg. I do lead climbing, and a bit of indoor bouldering.
been thinking i may want to get into some actual climbing gear/training. i've just been going bouldering and free-climbing like a scrub for years. not exactly safe ._.
On September 13 2013 03:41 Mortal wrote: been thinking i may want to get into some actual climbing gear/training. i've just been going bouldering and free-climbing like a scrub for years. not exactly safe ._.
Highballing is probably the most thrilling thing I've done
On September 08 2013 00:51 IAmWithStupid wrote: I prefer ice climbing. Can't say about the level, my friends and I just climb the water tower which is covered with ice in winter. Unfortunately, we don't have any specialized infrastructure.
I always try to visit the World Cup in Kirov to look at the high level professionals and take a shot by myself after the event is over. Btw, koreans are good not only in SC2, but also in ice climbing. But russians are better
On September 13 2013 03:41 Mortal wrote: been thinking i may want to get into some actual climbing gear/training. i've just been going bouldering and free-climbing like a scrub for years. not exactly safe ._.
Highballing is probably the most thrilling thing I've done
How high has your free solos been?
this is a rough estimate, but i believe the highest was off the coast of LA on Catalina, and it was probably in the realm of like 100 ft? absolutely nothing fancy. it's been ~4 years so the memory isn't quite as vivid as it once was. i do love it though, very thrilling to come to the realization that you really, really don't want to be letting go of that rock lol.
On September 10 2013 07:18 icystorage wrote: don't you guys forget pics on your trip!
sadly we didn't have a camera. We met two German crankers who did snap a few pics, but forgot to ask them to send them to us!
Castle Rock is amazing! Lots of slopers, funky formations and amazing solid rock. Warmed up on a few V0s and a V1 then tried to work Mr Magoo V2. EatThePath made some good progress on it while I got denied pretty hard by the first move. Then worked on Hueco Slap V4 which I ended up sending after getting beta and a lot of help from the aforementioned Germans. Then watched one of the Germans crank Hueco Wall V6.
On September 08 2013 00:51 IAmWithStupid wrote: I prefer ice climbing. Can't say about the level, my friends and I just climb the water tower which is covered with ice in winter. Unfortunately, we don't have any specialized infrastructure.
I always try to visit the World Cup in Kirov to look at the high level professionals and take a shot by myself after the event is over. Btw, koreans are good not only in SC2, but also in ice climbing. But russians are better
Only 485 gramms with carbon fibre body, super-light aluminium handle and special alloy beak. Can't wait to try it out!
dude that is fucking badass
Now I know why people are scared of being murdered with an ice axe
Actually, this particular ice axe is non-percussion (I'm not sure if this is the right word), you don't hit the ice with it in order to fix your position, you just hook roughness (again, I don't know the right vocabulary, just translate intuitevely).
I don't understand why neither climbing nor ice-climbing is an olympic discipline. It is highly competitive and very entertaining to watch.
"On February 12, the full session of the International Olympic Committee formally recognized the International Federation of Sport Climbing, two years after the ISCF was granted provisional recognition. This means climbing now can compete with other sports for entry to the Olympic Games." Although it has failed to reach the final shortlist of sports being considered for the 2020 Olympics.
Regarding the ice-climbing. I was visiting OutDoor Exhibition (Germany, Friedrichshafen, 10-13 July 2013) and met The President of UIAA. He said there will be special booth/stand/exhibition about ice-climbing at Sochi-2014. There will be special wall with (probably manufactured) ice and all-russian world-class sportsmen to show all the excitement of this discipline. This show will require tickets. If you PM me beforehand, I'll make everything to get these tickets for you.
Got bruises on top of my feet after toe-hooking too much lol, never happened to me before. Did a really fun 7a+ yesterday after around five-six tries. Also working on the most fun problem ever right now, 7b~. Got some footage, probably up in the next few days ^_^
Just came back from Tampere Climbing Arena, was there 3 hours. The cool thing about that place is that even after the place closes, you may stay as long as you want. They just close the store.
Some progress was made. Passed for the first time a tricky 4, with a jump that a I just couldn't get in position to do. Also some strength progress, I could do now 2 moves of a long overhang (5c), 5 moves to go but they are pretty similar. Continued to avoid limit climbing, trying to focus on progressing my technique on 4/5 level. Also I felt quite good today as I passed a 5a overhang that I pass easily on a good day, but on other days it seems impossible, very strange .
Anyway there was also this 3 years old little girl who climbed a 8 meter wall and got a lollypop after that!
I met up with Culture at the San Francisco dogpatch boulder gym, and I've climbed with his co-founder dude Oliver a couple times now. Nice guys. Maybe I'll find CatN one of these days.
Cases would be, as mentioned, crack climbing or open wounds. Well, open wounds would be best to let them heal first of course but if you are on a trip you might consider it worth taping to be able to continue climbing for the trip.
Don't tape because your finger joints hurt or your skin. Only do so if you come back from an injury i suppose. But I really have not much knowledge about it. So yea you should know what you are doing I guess. If your joints hurt, learn to climb more open-handed, and/or even tho it sucks, climb a bit less.
If your skin hurts. Learn to deal with it. Get a good handcreme for use afterwards/at night. But if you tape, how's your skin going to adapt to it?
In 2 weeks I'm going bouldering in fontainebleau, france. Can't wait.
On September 26 2013 18:42 Keniji wrote: I'd say don't tape unless you really know why.
Cases would be, as mentioned, crack climbing or open wounds. Well, open wounds would be best to let them heal first of course but if you are on a trip you might consider it worth taping to be able to continue climbing for the trip.
Don't tape because your finger joints hurt or your skin. Only do so if you come back from an injury i suppose. But I really have not much knowledge about it. So yea you should know what you are doing I guess. If your joints hurt, learn to climb more open-handed, and/or even tho it sucks, climb a bit less.
If your skin hurts. Learn to deal with it. Get a good handcreme for use afterwards/at night. But if you tape, how's your skin going to adapt to it?
In 2 weeks I'm going bouldering in fontainebleau, france. Can't wait.
My childhood playground, any spot in particular planned?
Oh there's climbers here!! Sign me up!! Yorkshire, UK based, mostly a sport climber at about fr 7a but not as strong outdoors due to head and trust issues. I was dropped 12m, thankfully I had strong legs back then and somehow landed it. I'm getting much stronger since I started using the rowing machine at the gym and have lost a lot of body fat by cutting bread from my diet (can't recommend this enough!).
On September 19 2013 19:28 icystorage wrote: do you guys use tape when climbing? when do you have to use it? is it advisable?
For injurys really, open wounds and you can tape over/across the knuckle to restrict crimping on fingers with torn/damaged pulleys. Worked for me when I foolishly jumped from V3-V7 in two weeks and destroyed my fingers. It's better just to not get the injuries in the first place, so I try to avoid bouldering now.
Any climbers in Hong Kong November? I'll be there on my lonesome for the first 2 1/2 weeks and looking to climb as much as I can.
On September 26 2013 18:42 Keniji wrote: I'd say don't tape unless you really know why.
Cases would be, as mentioned, crack climbing or open wounds. Well, open wounds would be best to let them heal first of course but if you are on a trip you might consider it worth taping to be able to continue climbing for the trip.
Don't tape because your finger joints hurt or your skin. Only do so if you come back from an injury i suppose. But I really have not much knowledge about it. So yea you should know what you are doing I guess. If your joints hurt, learn to climb more open-handed, and/or even tho it sucks, climb a bit less.
If your skin hurts. Learn to deal with it. Get a good handcreme for use afterwards/at night. But if you tape, how's your skin going to adapt to it?
In 2 weeks I'm going bouldering in fontainebleau, france. Can't wait.
My childhood playground, any spot in particular planned?
Well, I don't know :D A friend just told me that they have a place in the car and asked if I want to come. So I don't have much information.
On September 26 2013 18:42 Keniji wrote: I'd say don't tape unless you really know why.
Cases would be, as mentioned, crack climbing or open wounds. Well, open wounds would be best to let them heal first of course but if you are on a trip you might consider it worth taping to be able to continue climbing for the trip.
Don't tape because your finger joints hurt or your skin. Only do so if you come back from an injury i suppose. But I really have not much knowledge about it. So yea you should know what you are doing I guess. If your joints hurt, learn to climb more open-handed, and/or even tho it sucks, climb a bit less.
If your skin hurts. Learn to deal with it. Get a good handcreme for use afterwards/at night. But if you tape, how's your skin going to adapt to it?
In 2 weeks I'm going bouldering in fontainebleau, france. Can't wait.
My childhood playground, any spot in particular planned?
Well, I don't know :D A friend just told me that they have a place in the car and asked if I want to come. So I don't have much information.
Rocks dries fast, so even if it's rainy, usually ready for climbing about 2 hour after the rain.
spots to see: L'elephant, Diplodocus, Mer des Sables (Cul de Chien)
Coquibus has big caves (600m^2 for the biggest I think)
Bas-Cuviers and franchard are huge (video in youtube of someone running and jumping from rock to rock during 50 minutes without touching the ground once)
So thousands of boulders with well marked topos for every level of climbers. Just a little warning about the difficulty rating, because climbing there is so different, you should look for 1 or 2 rating lower compared to indoor.
I'm not totally fearless to heights for sure. I am really a pussy when it comes to jumping from rock to rock, even if it's like 50 cm. But never scared while climbing.
Back to business, next saturday, they'll have a competition in the climbing arena, this means all old problems will be taken down and we'll get a room full of fresh challenges, so awesome :D!!
I'm gonna join a bouldering competition next week! :D i've been training for like 3 months and I have 0 experience lol, i'm gonna be joining the novice category
On October 05 2013 07:32 icystorage wrote: I'm gonna join a bouldering competition next week! :D i've been training for like 3 months and I have 0 experience lol, i'm gonna be joining the novice category
I've gone to three competitions, it's quite fun, won a bag once
Hey! I climb! Not very often, but maybe once or twice a month at K2, Telefonplan, Stockholm. Used to climb more often at KS Solna, but since they rebuilt the place I just can't stand it.
On October 05 2013 16:10 GinNtoniC wrote: Hey! I climb! Not very often, but maybe once or twice a month at K2, Telefonplan, Stockholm. Used to climb more often at KS Solna, but since they rebuilt the place I just can't stand it.
We should meet up sometime :D I only climb at those places, and I agree Solna has become pretty shitty, but Telefonplan is so far away for me
The competition had a bit of an issue, as they could train the problems beforehand, they made them really hard and some of the holds were not holding as good as 500 people were warming the place and now they were climbing nonstop the guy at the end had troubles. My favorite problem was men's third. Also I liked women problems quite a lot. Nalle's problem was sick and really designed for himself, he made it look so easy.
The pain goes away. first you can wear them 15 min then after few weeks you will have no problem having them for hours. Even experienced climbers make pauses so don't be ashamed :D.
I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.
You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.
I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<
On October 06 2013 22:56 AeroGear wrote: I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.
You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.
I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<
On October 05 2013 16:10 GinNtoniC wrote: Hey! I climb! Not very often, but maybe once or twice a month at K2, Telefonplan, Stockholm. Used to climb more often at KS Solna, but since they rebuilt the place I just can't stand it.
We should meet up sometime :D I only climb at those places, and I agree Solna has become pretty shitty, but Telefonplan is so far away for me
Absolutely! PM me and we'll exchange contact info.
On October 06 2013 22:56 AeroGear wrote: I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.
You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.
I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<
Has anyone here tried re-soldering?
It depends on what kind of shoe you're resoling. If it's something like a 5.10 Team or other shoe with a really thin, sensitive sole, you might be better off buying a new pair. Most resolers apply thicker rubbers - 4mm or 5mm - and you'll notice a difference, especially if you're going from a 2.5 or 3mm to a 5mm rubber. If you want to resole something stiffer, a TC Pro or Stoneland or something, then it shouldn't be a big deal. And that's not to say resoling a sensitive shoe is always bad; a friend of mine resoled his black Teams, then bought another pair because the old ones "feel like Solutions." Given that I love Solutions that doesn't sound so bad to me.
On October 06 2013 20:32 icystorage wrote: do you really have to man up when wearing 1 size lower climbing shoes? =/ it's very uncomfortable and painful
I found this to be helpful but I don't have much experience.
On October 06 2013 22:56 AeroGear wrote: I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.
You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.
I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<
Has anyone here tried re-soldering?
It depends on what kind of shoe you're resoling. If it's something like a 5.10 Team or other shoe with a really thin, sensitive sole, you might be better off buying a new pair. Most resolers apply thicker rubbers - 4mm or 5mm - and you'll notice a difference, especially if you're going from a 2.5 or 3mm to a 5mm rubber. If you want to resole something stiffer, a TC Pro or Stoneland or something, then it shouldn't be a big deal. And that's not to say resoling a sensitive shoe is always bad; a friend of mine resoled his black Teams, then bought another pair because the old ones "feel like Solutions." Given that I love Solutions that doesn't sound so bad to me.
Cool, I have the Solutions, I'm unsure how thick the rubber of those are
Visited another indoor bouldering place for a quick hour of fun. It was slightly bigger on the bouldering side, had a lot of problems, like probably 60 or so and many were at my level or just slightly above so I enjoyed but at the same time I went to sleep last night at 5 am and wasn't doing good at all.
The color and lightning was little bit of poor taste, but also they had some really good slabs and lots of variety. The place looked much older than it really was (Opened this january I think) It's slightly cheaper and at the same distance than the other place so I plan to go again for sure.
Yeah, actually they were not distracting at all, the biggest painting was for a kid wall that was separate from the rest of the area. I didn't even notice the climber painting, and that tree painting wasn't bothering me at the problems were going up over it quite fast. The thing that bothered me is that the place is less than a year old and it looked like it was 10 years without fixing, patching, cleaning.
On October 06 2013 22:56 AeroGear wrote: I dont think you need to pick shoes that dont fit. Its not gonna work well to use crimpy footholds with bent toes.
You need a solid fit so your shoes dont slip on heel hooks and such, but there's no reason to torture yourself. That being said, if you're not used to wearing climbing shoes, they will feel slightly uncomfortable, especially if you have wide feet.
I need to shop for a new pair myself, tips being worn out and...the smell >_<
Has anyone here tried re-soldering?
It depends on what kind of shoe you're resoling. If it's something like a 5.10 Team or other shoe with a really thin, sensitive sole, you might be better off buying a new pair. Most resolers apply thicker rubbers - 4mm or 5mm - and you'll notice a difference, especially if you're going from a 2.5 or 3mm to a 5mm rubber. If you want to resole something stiffer, a TC Pro or Stoneland or something, then it shouldn't be a big deal. And that's not to say resoling a sensitive shoe is always bad; a friend of mine resoled his black Teams, then bought another pair because the old ones "feel like Solutions." Given that I love Solutions that doesn't sound so bad to me.
Cool, I have the Solutions, I'm unsure how thick the rubber of those are
Solutions are Vibram XS Grip2, 4mm rubber. I think the standard options are usually XS or 5.10 Stealth, so resoling your Solutions is probably completely fine assuming the rand isn't damaged. There's a basic diagnostic image in the spoiler.
I used to boulder all the time but haven't in a number of years. Now that I'm back living in CO, I'm looking to get back in to it (probably just at the bouldering gym for now). Glad to see so many other climbers
Another Bay Area climber here, not surprised we're so well represented in the thread as it seems half the people I meet these days have a membership at missions cliffs or iron works I'm mostly into sport, but learning trad. A friend took me a couple of pitches up El Cap earlier this year, and it's definitely got me motivated to go back and go higher.
Nursing a torn rhomboid/something near it at the moment (yeah, too much climbing =\ ) and it sucks so I won't be able to join in any meetups for the near future. Maybe sometime in 2014! xD
Adam screams and rages too much for my taste, but man is he a strong climber. That second problem is fucking absurd, with a ridiculously awesome match.
On October 09 2013 03:11 garbanzo wrote: Adam screams and rages too much for my taste, but man is he a strong climber. That second problem is fucking absurd, with a ridiculously awesome match.
Yeah I don't enjoy it either, but considering the problems and routes he climbs, it's understandable
I will be in Germany (Hessen, Giessen) for the next two months. My friend showed me a nice place in Wetzlar (Cube-kletterzentrum). If you are interested in meeting and doing some climbing (in Wetzlar of Frankfurt) just PM me. Right now I am around level 4-5. I think any person with a decent physical condition is able to climb 4 or 4+. Looking forward to gain some experience and improve my technique.
Here we go, I made you a little video presentation of the place I go indoor climbing the most, they had some open competition so there was a lot to film. And if not for the climbing, the joy of English butchering alone was enough Enjoy!
The image is from the Portland Boulder Rally. Small-ish comp with a decent prize purse. Finalists were Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, Matt Fultz, Matty Hong, Jon Cardwell and Jimmy Webb in men's, and Alex Johnson, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Isabelle Faus, Nina Williams (<3), Alex Puccio and Angie Payne on the women's side. Some interesting stuff and kinda a different style than you get in most competition climbing. There are some audio issues in the first bit of the video, but it clears up. The climbing starts around 2:14:00 with commentary by the ClimbingNarc and one of the routesetters.
On October 06 2013 20:32 icystorage wrote: do you really have to man up when wearing 1 size lower climbing shoes? =/ it's very uncomfortable and painful
I missed this post, and I'm sorry I did. The answer is that it depends. :D
First, it depends on what the shoes you're wearing are for. If you're looking for bouldering/sport climbing shoes for overhanging sections, then you'll want tighter, more aggressive shoes. If you're going to be climbing slabs, flatter, stiffer shoes are going to be more ideal. If you're doing longer routes or multipitch climbs, then comfort is more important. Every shoe is different, and every shoe has different performance goals.
Second, it depends on the company you're buying from. Every company has different designers and produces different shoes in different sizings. 5.10 tends to be smaller per size than those of some other companies, for instance, but often have more space in the heel. The other thing is that even within a single company's offerings, shoes aren't necessarily the same size. Try stuff on before you commit. It's not like buying pants.
Material matters too. A fully synthetic shoe will have almost no stretch, but a leather shoe will have half to a full size of stretch in the upper. Be aware of the stretch of your shoe before you buy.
Last, the closure system matters as well. If you have laces, you can customize the fit a bit more. A slipper, meanwhile, will need to be quite tight so as to not come off your foot.
The ideal fit doesn't involve pain. You should have snugness and no dead space, but no pain either.
Here's the other thing about shoes. A lot of really, really proud ascents have been done in footwear that by today's standards would be laughable. But socks didn't stop Lynn Hill from freeing the Nose. And more recently, they didn't stop Steve Lapen from repeating Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d). Don't stress it.
There was also a time where people climbed bare feet in Fonts. It was actually quite fun to see Adam Ondra failing to flash on such classic problem from so long ago. Slabs can really be tricky!
VOD of Sisu Masters, an invitation bouldering comp organized in Finland by Nalle Hukkataival. The four competitors on each side each set a problem and went from there (Dave's is awesome and very non-competition-y). Anna Stohr and Melissa Le Neve, plus two Finish women I can't remember, competed on the women's side. Nalle, Dave Graham, Anthony Gullsten and Killian Fischuber competed on the men's side. Pretty cool competition with some of the most awkward MCing and commentary I've ever heard, including an interview with Dave Graham featuring the interviewer snatching the mic away mid-answer.
Edit: In more news from Finland, Nalle put up a video on his Facebook page that is, to my knowledge, the first look at any of the moves on his Sisu project. The Sisu project is a semi-secret proj of Nalle's, in Finland, that's supposed to be one of the three or so truly next-level projects being pursued in the bouldering world right now. He's been working on it for five (or maybe seven?) years and still hasn't stuck the first move. (The other two megaprojects are Dai Koyamada's Mt. Hiei linkup of V13 roof tufa into V13 roof tufa into V13 roof tufa and Dave Graham's crazy roof project in Switzerland.)
On September 27 2013 13:28 AirbladeOrange wrote: Has anyone here been afraid of heights before starting climbing?
I have grown more and more afraid of heights and that was one (minor) reason why I started climbing again. Sometimes on longer walls towards the top I feel my powers running out much faster than they should be. Sometimes I think my grip wont hold no matter how big jugs there are. Annoying more than anything. I guess focusing on bouldering doesn't help either :D
On October 06 2013 20:32 icystorage wrote: do you really have to man up when wearing 1 size lower climbing shoes? =/ it's very uncomfortable and painful
In my opinion no. Use shoes that fit well and aren't too painful. When you climb more you will find out if your shoes are lacking and exactly where they are lacking. Then you will know which parts of your shoes you want to be tight and where it doesn't matter that much. Getting too small shoes wont make you any better climber - they might even stop you from climbing altogether.
On October 07 2013 03:10 Epoxide wrote: Has anyone here tried re-soldering?
I had my shoes resoled and that seems to have bought them at least 50% more lifetime for 30%(?) of the cost. They were otherways in pretty decent shape and don't smell awful either. I thought about buying a new pair but I felt like the old ones have still walls to climb.
I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
Sounds about the same as what happened to me last year. I tried resting 2-3 weeks, I did nothing and applied some of those anti-infection/pain gels. No issues at all except for a slightly weird sensation.
But the pain re-appeared even just as I was riding my bike over to the location (like a 20 minute ride). So I only tried a few moves, felt some minor pain and went back home. On the way back the pain was already getting somewhat uncomfortable.
I spent another month resting and I was about to do some climbing during my vacation but the arm still didn't feel ideal on the first day. Upon hearing about the issues, the doc who was with us gave me some meds and told me to not climb for 2-3 months at the very least or that shit just keeps coming back. Took the meds, didn't climb or bike for 3 months and I was perfectly fine.
Just my experience that may or may not be consistent with whatever's wrong with you.
On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
Sounds about the same as what happened to me last year. I tried resting 2-3 weeks, I did nothing and applied some of those anti-infection/pain gels. No issues at all except for a slightly weird sensation.
But the pain re-appeared even just as I was riding my bike over to the location (like a 20 minute ride). So I only tried a few moves, felt some minor pain and went back home. On the way back the pain was already getting somewhat uncomfortable.
I spent another month resting and I was about to do some climbing during my vacation but the arm still didn't feel ideal on the first day. Upon hearing about the issues, the doc who was with us gave me some meds and told me to not climb for 2-3 months at the very least or that shit just keeps coming back. Took the meds, didn't climb or bike for 3 months and I was perfectly fine.
Just my experience that may or may not be consistent with whatever's wrong with you.
Ok, I think that you had it a step further and yours got inflammatory. I talked with a badminton coach and he was telling that as long as you don't feel anything during rest, the pain is caused be micro-damage in the tendon healing and the new shape creates the pain. He was telling that basically I could continue as long as the pain goes away after the exercise.
yet the fact that a single pull up brings the pain back so easily, I'll take time off, I don't trust it to magically go away by continuing climbing. It's nice to hear that things got fine with you. My wish is to be able to climb a week in France (8-15 November).
It really depends. I had the worst possible pain ever in my right arm tendon but I only rested for one week and I was fine after. Not too sure what to tell you. Definitely rest for one week and be really careful on your first time.
On October 17 2013 22:02 0x64 wrote: I hurt my arm, I think its not something permanent or severe, more like a lack of rest between climbing. Tendon pain and I've had very contradictory info. Anyway, Today I did one pull-up and the arm was hurt for two hours. How long should I stay away from the climbing wall? I plan to take it easy for a long week, then try a pull-up again and see if I notice any pain and get back to climbing but very carefully...
Now, opinions of other people on the matter! I have been climbing only since August. Seems like the muscle strength got up but the rest didn't followed evenly.
I have had a pain similar to this when i start climbing again after taking an extended break and just rush back into doing stupid stuff (i.e. climbing 6-8 days in a row after not climbing for 4 months). If you have the same kind of injury that i do, what has always helped me is to do antagonistic exercises (push-ups, thera-band exercises), and easy exercises that get blood flow to your arms but that doesn't work the muscles. That way your tendons have a chance to catch up. And then when you start climbing again, (If your tendons hurt after one pull up you definitely need to take some rest, but maybe just a week or two), climb really easy! I mean super easy, like doing a ton of moves on like the easy slab beginner wall of the gym you go to. The point being to try and gently use your tendons, without building your muscle strength. And then, the hard part is to stay away from any difficult climbing for another couple of weeks, and just slowly building up to climbing hard again!
O and I am from Albuquerque, NM. I boulder(V10) and sport climb(5.13c)!
Thread is looking a little dead, so here is some rock porn to breath life into it! http://vimeo.com/47555959
Hopefully this will motivate you to train like a beast, win some world cups, and then casually go out to rocklands and make sending 8A to 8B+ (V11-14) seem like a walk in the park. Or make you feel like a total weakling with no hope of ever being strong...
Edit: does anyone know if you can embed vimeo videos the way you can embed youtube videos?
So, I've watched the video above and I have some questions/general thoughts.
In the middle-ass of somewhere in Russia it is very difficult to find necessary infrastructure for climbing. In the radius of 100km I don't have any gyms for climbing or smth similar. But what I have is itching in my ass I like to climb things, especially vertical ones. Every time I see a rocky hill or mountain I think "Can I climb that?" I told before, in winter I climb a water tower which is covered with ice. In summer I go camping in the mountains/vertical caves. And for me it is all about climbing UP. UP!!! I feel good when I am standing on the ground and 10 minutes later I hang +/-15 meters above. It is like getting orgasmic feelings from climbing.
And then I see people bouldering in videos like one above. To tell the truth I've never done bouldering myself. It seems impossibly hard! But I don't understand how people enjoy doing it. No offense, I just discuss my impressions. When I am 10 meters or more above the ground and I look down adrenalin rushes through my veins. I am scared... I feel alive... While bouldering you can just jump down and you'll be... fine, I guess... Could someone explain me what is the point of going horizontal direction while bouldering?
Again, I am a total newbie in bouldering. I just think that I would get much less emotions from being 1 meter from the ground than climbing up a (rocky) wall.
Edit: I'm talking about Sassback's video-link (I type too slow: 0x64 posted before me)
Because, for some people like myself, climbing is not about the adrenaline rush. This should have been clear considering a few posts here are about how the poster has a fear of heights.
I should add that I boulder because I really enjoy the physical and mental challenge and it's also a great solo (in general) exercise that I find to be lots of fun.
I basically only boulder and the reason is quite simple. I enjoy climbing to the max potential of what my body and mind can do. A boulder problem challenges me both physically and mentally. I love the idea of solving a problem in my mind, figuring out every move, how to position my body, how to grab a hold, where I grab it etc. And then putting my thoughts into fruition through my body. The feeling of accomplishment when you send a problem that is on your max level and something you have been working on for hours, days, weeks, or even months is amazing.
Every aspect of climbing has it's own appeal, I definitely like other types of climbing, I really like trad, and sport + multipitch to some extent. It all depends on the mood I'm in. Bouldering is definitely my go to thing though.
Well, I see... I think I have to go self-critical: I'm too competitive in my outdoor actvities. Somehow I try to turn anything into a competition. When my friend climbs seven seconds faster than me I feel like I lose in an evolutionary race... When I climb I also challenge myself to an edge, mostly physically rather than mentally. With bouldering it seems you need a balance between it. Maybe some day I'll try this out, but I can't promise I'll like it as much as going up the walls.
I am usually very competitive when climbing with friends. Who can manage to figure out a problem first? Who can send it first? Who can do it in the least amount of tries? It's quite fun. I dislike speed climbing, I like crisp refined climbing, rather than quick sloppy climbing.
Climbing is more entertaining than talking about it! I have a dream that some day all TL-ers in this thread will gather together to challenge some rocks, but right now I have to go to sleep! Take care, everyone!
On October 24 2013 04:06 Sassback wrote: Thread is looking a little dead, so here is some rock porn to breath life into it! http://vimeo.com/47555959
Hopefully this will motivate you to train like a beast, win some world cups, and then casually go out to rocklands and make sending 8A to 8B+ (V11-14) seem like a walk in the park. Or make you feel like a total weakling with no hope of ever being strong...
Edit: does anyone know if you can embed vimeo videos the way you can embed youtube videos?
The hatchling is such a beautiful boulder, probably the only one I could have a fair chance at working some moves out on. He didn't look impossible. The camera angle on Sky doesn't make it justice. Those holds are sooooo fucking bad.
I enjoy the mantles since I don't get enough of them. Most of the stuff around me is slopey topout after slopey topout :<. As far as that problem goes, the crux was actually a body tension move followed by a big move to a jug. Mantle was committing but pretty easy
Hollyyy Shiiiit! Just went to the biggest climbing arena in Finland.
Their highest wall was 30 meters, I'm uploading a video... To get to the boulder room, you already have to climb small metallic (see through) stair to 15 meter where you have a floor of 8 meter rope wall.. The boulder cave was pretty nice too but not huge by any mean, human dimensions!
It really is awesome! The atmosphere is still a bit funny with the clean white surroundings but I'm sure its going to be fine with a bit of stain and odour Glad you got the slide in the video too! The expansion couldn't have come at a better time. All the bouldering gyms have been way too crowded around Helsinki area.
I'm at the central coast (California) for the weekend, anyone around here want to climb? I'll be doing the boulder at the beach in Cayucos that I always do, and boulders at Bishop Peak near Cal Poly. I don't know much for other boulders around the area, but there is some nice little rope stuff but I don't have equipment. Frag, any chance you'd drive up here?
I just arrived for a week of climbing holiday in Fontainebleau's forest. The first morning is bright and sunny but gilfriend complains about throat and stays in bed... Let's go with Mom and dog then :D
Ok so Tomorrow is my last chance to climb. The weathers have been varied but since monday afternoon, things have been relatively dry.
Sunday, I went to climb to the Diplodocus, monday to J.A Martin and in the afternoon to Rocher Guichot. Tuesday, a quick 30 min session at Roche aux Sabots, a new place to me, exploring a bit but most of the climbs were quite high for bouldering (4-5 meters).
Today I went for the first time to 91.1 and took this video of a the spot, it's just a short walk around and that place was huge. A great spot for beginners.
The biggest difference with gym climbing and fontainebleau climbing I noticed is the amount of footwork. Most of the times, the holds will be very small and since hand holds are "embedded", they don't become automatically foot hold.
It's so weird to see Jimmy in his 5.10 Teams and Alex Megos in his Tenayas at La Sportiva's comp. I can't think of another time I've seen that. It's always been Sportiva-only guys.
Edit: And Jan is a Scarpa guy I think. Previous years it's been people in Solutions and Adam in whatever the latest slipper is.
Just placed an order for my self xmas gift, my first pair of brand new shoes! Hopefully I guessed right on the sizing for the Five Ten Hornets, which apparently run quite small. Excited to try them. :D
Went for some outdoor climbing yesterday in fontaineblau. Rock was dry and cold but jugs and some tops were filled with water and ice, a bit unpleasant surprise on dynamic moves :D. It's great to get a warm sun after the finnish darkness!
On December 19 2013 08:54 icystorage wrote: what will you do if you need a different size? return it for another one?
Yeah sierratradingpost.com has really nice return policies.
On December 19 2013 09:17 0x64 wrote: Went for some outdoor climbing yesterday in fontaineblau. Rock was dry and cold but jugs and some tops were filled with water and ice, a bit unpleasant surprise on dynamic moves :D. It's great to get a warm sun after the finnish darkness!
"A bit unpleasant" -- I might fall if that happened to me.
On December 19 2013 09:17 0x64 wrote: Went for some outdoor climbing yesterday in fontaineblau. Rock was dry and cold but jugs and some tops were filled with water and ice, a bit unpleasant surprise on dynamic moves :D. It's great to get a warm sun after the finnish darkness!
On December 19 2013 07:53 EatThePath wrote: Just placed an order for my self xmas gift, my first pair of brand new shoes! Hopefully I guessed right on the sizing for the Five Ten Hornets, which apparently run quite small. Excited to try them. :D
Opened and put them on today -- they fit great! Really pleased, they are better than all the shoes I was trying the last month at the gym and stores. Feel like I lucked out with a shot in the dark. w00t!
yesterday morning was great in Bleau, got two hours before heavy rain arrived. Passed some stuff that were at my limit level with cool moves. Today should be sunny so we will go again.
by climbing buddy, this summer, somewhere in the Frankenjura. We went to Southern Spain in November for climbing, will try to post some pictures from that as well.
The weather has been around 10 degrees, could climb 2 days in a row but now it's been rainy and anyway I need a pause for my arms. Tendons are starting to act up. The moves are so different. Here are few picture from yesterday. Posting from tablet so stuff might end up funny. Let's see...
My brother is posing. We were at the pignon Poteau which is very quick to dry, has only a beginner circuit, which is very long with its 80 problems, almost no frequentation except for walkers since a big trail goes in the middle. This whole was huge, you could fit a man in there, even found a laser show in this whole on YouTube... lol where is this world going?? You can see here the typical elephant leather pattern of Fontainebleau.
And finally a sunset... not the end of my day, this was half way into my evening walk.
My friend produces ice axes and also is sponsoring World Iceclimbing Cup stage in Kirov (Russia). Just sent me this picture (it's not advertising, just sharing the happy-holidays-mood): + Show Spoiler +
Ded Moroz (aka Santa in civilized countries) is climbing a natural rock (some kind of frozen waterfall). During World Cup usually a custom made ice wall is used...
And Happy Birthday! May your hands remain strong, palms - dry and equipment - safe!
This land isn’t flat this climate is bad There’re avalanches frome time to time And stones fall from somewhere above And we can turn and go round But what we choose is a difficult route Dangerous like a path of war.
You never were here you never took risk It means you never tested yourself Even if you grabbed stars from the sky Down there you’ll never meet Never in your happy life Ten percent of miracles and beauties here
No scarlet roses no funeral crepe It doesn’t look like a tombstone The stone that gave you eternal peace In daylight eternal fire sparkles Eternal fire of emerald ice The ice on the mountain top you never reached.
And let them gossip and let them talk We know nobody dies in vain This way to die is better than vodka or cold The others will change some comfortable place To risk and a lot of excessive work They will complete your uncompleted route.
Look out when climbing these vertical walls Don’t set your hopes upon your luck At mountains we never trust neither stone nor ice All you can trust is your own hands And hands of your friend and safety anchor And prayer to Lord for the quality of the rope.
We cut footsteps we never step back We spare no efforts with thembling knees Your heart is ready to leave you after and run The world’s on your palm you’re happy and dumb You envy a bit the climbing people The others with their tops still waiting ahead.
Oh, boy! Oh, boy! Oh, boy! I'll visit ISPO in Munich on 26-28th of January to see new equipment and maybe try it out... Then I go ice climbing to Chamonix for a couple of days. And after I'll visit this one (as a spectator): + Show Spoiler +
Super excited and can't wait!!! I'll try to make photojournal for you!
how do you get back after not climbing for so long? its been like 2 months since i climbed, been busy with my new (and first! yey) work. i probably boulder at least once a week in feb but also want to keep in improving.
I had been climbing during those five months, just not over 7a+ I have a friend at the moment who was gone from climbing for about a year. For him it's all about just getting back your strength. The technique is still mostly there.
On January 22 2014 14:45 icystorage wrote: yeah. the last time i climbed, i barely pull myself up since i gained weight lol. its kinda frustrating
probably even more a problem of lost muscle-mass
Started climbing in june of last year, and it has really caught me. Been going at least 2 times a week since september. I'm currently stuck at 6b/6b+. Heres to hoping I can crack a 7 until the end of the year =)
Hey I got a rare blood disease and took medication that actually causes muscle atrophy as well as going through a course of chemotherapy last March. I could't walk up stairs and fell off of V2's when I started climbing again after like a 4 month break. But now I'm climbing V8 (7B+) solid. You can do it!
On January 23 2014 03:25 sob3k wrote: Hey I got a rare blood disease and took medication that actually causes muscle atrophy as well as going through a course of chemotherapy last March. I could't walk up stairs and fell off of V2's when I started climbing again after like a 4 month break. But now I'm climbing V8 (7B+) solid. You can do it!
Respect man, what level were you climbing before your break?
On November 04 2013 05:35 0x64 wrote: Hollyyy Shiiiit! Just went to the biggest climbing arena in Finland.
Their highest wall was 30 meters, I'm uploading a video... To get to the boulder room, you already have to climb small metallic (see through) stair to 15 meter where you have a floor of 8 meter rope wall.. The boulder cave was pretty nice too but not huge by any mean, human dimensions!
On January 23 2014 03:25 sob3k wrote: Hey I got a rare blood disease and took medication that actually causes muscle atrophy as well as going through a course of chemotherapy last March. I could't walk up stairs and fell off of V2's when I started climbing again after like a 4 month break. But now I'm climbing V8 (7B+) solid. You can do it!
On January 23 2014 03:25 sob3k wrote: Hey I got a rare blood disease and took medication that actually causes muscle atrophy as well as going through a course of chemotherapy last March. I could't walk up stairs and fell off of V2's when I started climbing again after like a 4 month break. But now I'm climbing V8 (7B+) solid. You can do it!
Second, the construct itself. It is actually enormous. On the second picture there is a guy at the top part, you can see the scale. Also it is not as difficult as the "icicle" at Kirov (Russia) stage: + Show Spoiler +
Speed climbing is one of the two disciplines. The best time among women is 10,56 seconds (men - 7,smth). In Chamonix it took 30 minutes for a leader to climb similar wall (putting ice screws every two meters and everything). I know, these things are not to be compared, but still impressive. They use special light ice axes: + Show Spoiler +
And then there were "difficulty" finals. You are given 7 minutes; your route and height, you were able to climb, is what counts: + Show Spoiler +
It was absolutely amazing and no words can describe my emotions. Too bad this sport is not popular and it's difficault to find similar construct to climb.
On February 05 2014 19:40 icystorage wrote: how would the wildlings and jon snow fare on the competition?
thanks for the pics! it looks intense o.o
It's not about equipment, it's about people who climb. And wildlings are tough! Here are pics from Chamonix museum. Looks very old... But people were able to conquer Everest with this kind of stuff: + Show Spoiler +
i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.
i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote: i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.
i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
Try to always keep arms straight. Using outside edge whenever you can makes things muuuuuuch much easier. I could climb a lot more when I started using it more frequently.
I had the hardest time going from V4 to V5. V5 to V6 and V6 to V7 was a lot easier for me. It got harder again from V7 to V8, and I've been on V8 for almost a year now.
nice video, thanks. need a few rewatches to nail down what i'll try next time. his wrong demonstrations are really helpful because those look like me. was hoping to get a response like yours =]
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote: i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.
i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
When I started climbing two years ago I was in much the same situation where it seemed like I improved on the beginning stuff at a nice gentle rate and then hit the wall for a while at V2s. I think the way most places rate their problems, this is typical for beginners because there are certain skills and strengths you just don't have yet until you've built them up with steady (but not excessive!) practice. As someone who only ever did running and soccer with minimal upper body, it required asking my body to do things it had never done and until then wasn't even capable of. But everyone can get there by working on it!
Two things you should notice are that your ability to pull up with one arm and "lock off" with a bent elbow while you reach to the next hold is probably not what you'd like it to be, and this is a strength thing you'll just have to develop. It will become very natural once you start to get it, keep trying. The other is that your grip strength is just not that great for anything beyond ledges and jugs, and some holds will feel useless or impossible. You'll be surprised when after a few visits suddenly shit holds feel doable or even positive. This is just a process of increasing your forearm strength and your tendons/ligaments getting stronger, which takes time. I found it very helpful to attempt types of holds that were "out of reach" for my skill level, just to try and push what I was capable of. Try traversing (sideways) around without worrying about the tape on holds that challenge you, especially crimps and slopers.
While you're working on leveling up your strength, use that time on "easy" V1s to refine your technique. Pay attention to your arm extension, when and how you use your energy, how close you are to the wall, which way your hips are, and where your feet are when they aren't on a toehold. You can achieve a lot by adjusting your balance and weight distribution.
I'm still having troubles on simple slabs. I need to develop the balance. Also I have troubles with the tendons. I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better? I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week. Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote: I'm still having troubles on simple slabs. I need to develop the balance. Also I have troubles with the tendons. I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better? I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week. Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D
I only need one rest day no matter how long my session is ;;
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote: Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D
My favorite exercise is to climb one or two grades easier problems than normally with one side facing the wall for the whole problem. Then climb the same problem with the other side facing the wall. The two main benefits: a) forces you to think how leg positioning changes depending on your balance and b) lets you practice strange moves and positions you normally wouldn't encounter until reaching harder grades.
I do it every now and then and its really strange how I always seem to find some new ideas and learn more about my climbing. No matter what grades I'm currently working on.
Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks?
A little bit late, but I was too busy to post it on TL. Ice Climbing Festival in Sochi was held during Olympic Games. The most awesome part is that russian sportsmen used the equipment of the company I work for! (Not big names!)
Question to the fellow climbers from Netherlands: would you consider buying equipment from russian company if it has all necessary certification + has orange colour rather than buying everything standard from big names like Petzl, Black Diamond, etc.?
Went to the El Chorro (Southern Spain, an hour from Malaga) at the beginning of March. My friends traversed the infamous 'Camino del Rey', but the climbing in the gorge was not so special. Youtube video (not from them) of that place:
On March 18 2014 03:42 0x64 wrote: I'm still having troubles on simple slabs. I need to develop the balance. Also I have troubles with the tendons. I can't climb 2 days in a row, I need at least 2 days of rest, is it ever going to get better? I climbed yesterday, today after 3 routes I had to stop because I know my limit and then if I did more I wouldn't be able to use my hands for a week. Maybe there are some tricks, like drink a gallon of water and inject some flaxseed oil in the rectum, or something climbers just don't talk about :D
What helped me tons with balance was to do (easy) indoor routes 'stupidly'. We have the children's wall in the gym, which has top ropes attached, and half of it is angled. Where the angled part meets the non-angled, you have a corner (don't know the climbing specific term for it, sorry), that widens as it goes up. At that place, we'd climb up, using handholds of one color only with the feet, and the hands only flat on the wall. Seemed impossible at the start, but after a couple of times, you get the hang of it, and it teaches you how to move and place your weight. Sometimes, placing your feet only one centimeter differently already makes the difference between failure and success.
I like corners a lot, so I also make my own routes on the 'outside' (90 degrees of wall, 270 degrees air) or I go up on 'inside' corners, only using the wall and structures for my feet, or only using one side for feet, and the other one for hands.
About tendons (and joints): I always had painful elbows after climbing overhangs, probably due to the joints not being used to the stress, and bad technique on top of it. So I specialized in climbing vertical routes, and only do 1 or 2 overhangs, and not at all if my elbows were acting up. After two years of that, I can now do overhangs and roofs until my arms give in. What parts of your hands are hurting? Beginners generally use way too much power with their hands and arms.
About rest: Sauna is amazing, and hot baths help as well. When we go on climbing trips, the limiting factor is usually the skin on our fingertips that gets worn off, so we climb for three days, then have a rest day, then three more days.
Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks?
Eliminates. Take something that's like a grade below your limit and start taking stuff off until it's at or above your limit. And I make up a lot of my own stuff in the gym these days. Find a move that's fun to do and build a problem around it.
Climbing injuries is often the result of trying to progress too quickly. Grades aboves 5.10+ or V3 is alot more taxing on tendons and joints if proper strenght and balance is'nt built over time beforehand. I've had elbow, shoulder and hand/wrist pain (for 1 week+) for attempting to force my way through grades. I've seen plenty of people injured who stubbornly keep climbing...
Ultimately its up to you to determine your inherent limits, mental as much as physical. I can run and climb decently but I can't do it everyday.
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote: i recently got into bouldering. i've gone once a week for 2 months now (this is a huge commitment for physical activity from me if you know me! i'll step it up when i can) and i like it a lot. i really suck but even at once a week i feel like i'm improving and getting less out of shape. i used to get really tired from doing a few v0s and couldn't really do any v1s. i can do a bunch of v1s in a row now without getting the shakes and my general efficiency/strength/endurance all seem a lot better.
i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
Try to always keep arms straight. Using outside edge whenever you can makes things muuuuuuch much easier. I could climb a lot more when I started using it more frequently.
I had the hardest time going from V4 to V5. V5 to V6 and V6 to V7 was a lot easier for me. It got harder again from V7 to V8, and I've been on V8 for almost a year now.
THIS VIDEO IS SO HELPFUL LOL
I'd been doing like v4-v5 off of just pure body/grip strength and always wondering why i suck so bad lol
They have already done 20 routes, but there might be 20x more to do, many, huge boulders, some are really big monsters close to 7 meters on the high side, very rare in this part of Finland.
Didn't climb much though, did maybe 2 slab around 4, and one baby slab as a 3-4... One hour ago, someone even uploaded a video for one route, check it out.
On a side-note, I really hate finnish granite, it's the Lada of bouldering. It works, but anything else would be better. It's sharp, huge chunk breaks after each winter... When you come from Bleau, it's really hard to get exited.
On April 19 2014 05:27 0x64 wrote: Went outdoor today also, into a crag discovered a month ago by some local climbers, it is now the closest place for me to climb, 25 min of driving.
They have already done 20 routes, but there might be 20x more to do, many, huge boulders, some are really big monsters close to 7 meters on the high side, very rare in this part of Finland.
Didn't climb much though, did maybe 2 slab around 4, and one baby slab as a 3-4... One hour ago, someone even uploaded a video for one route, check it out.
On a side-note, I really hate finnish granite, it's the Lada of bouldering. It works, but anything else would be better. It's sharp, huge chunk breaks after each winter... When you come from Bleau, it's really hard to get exited.
On March 15 2014 00:02 intrigue wrote: i'm starting some v2s now but i keep running into the same issue. i can do some, but on most of them i end up 'stuck' in a position where i feel like i have no leverage to get to the next hold, or it looks like it requires some burst of strength i don't have or a 'leap of faith' to advance. is this normal? it feels like i'm approaching/planning how to tackle a problem wrong conceptually and i'm just weak as shit (definitely true). do you guys have any tips for beginners trying to overcome this? i've just been throwing myself at it stubbornly. also how much more difficult is each level from the next, v0 v1 v2 v3 v4
One concept that I must enforce for beginners is the importance of your footwork. Starting out, people that are generally in good shape can climb V0-V1 without much difficulty within their first few weeks. But once you start attempting V2s, you are much more pressured to use your footwork to your advantage much more than before. I would highly suggest observing better climbers when you are resting at the gym and pay special attention to the way they maneuver their feet.
I like to think of it as a general 2:1 ratio -- for each move you make with your hands, you ought to be moving your feet twice. This is not always true or accurate of course, but it stresses the importance of positioning your body to generate force in a particular direction much better. Your footwork will also dictate the orientation of the rest of your body to the wall, what direction your hips are facing, and how your body is going to move in reference to the holds you are grabbing if you pressed on your feet at any moment. If you observe better climbers while they are warming up on some of these V2s you are working on, you will notice how they move their feet in reference to the holds they are grabbing.
Obviously strength is a huge issue as well, but I would argue that having proper footwork, knowing your center of gravity, understanding how body tension works, consciously breathing, drinking lots of water, being properly rested, warmed up, and fed all have arguably more important roles than focusing on how strong you are currently. Most importantly this is because you cannot change how strong you are in the moment, but you can change all of the rest of these things. Strength will come with time and effort over time, and specifically from training to be stronger.
I would suggest taking a completely holistic approach to climbing and not thinking about it in terms of sheer strength at all. You will want to work out your abs regularly in order to maintain a strong core that is essential for controlling your body tension on the wall. You will also want to (eventually) practice hanging on finger boards to develop strength in your tendons. You will want to practice pull-ups and negatives on hangboards to develop muscle strength using different grip positions, such as on jugs, slopers, pinches, crimps, etc. When warming up, practice traversing back and forth across the top-rope walls, and often challenge yourself to make longer moves and grab smaller holds. Make sure and strength each of your fingers carefully but firmly in all directions before climbing hard after warming up, and you should also sit down and stretch your legs out in several ways for 5 minutes before climbing hard.
Although all of these things might seem like a burden to remember, I guarantee you that if you pay attention to developing your skills on all of these fronts that you will not only be much better and more well-rounded of a climbing in the long run, but you will develop fast, efficiently, and be happy doing so. There is much more to climbing than simply being strong enough to do a pull up right off each hold to get to the top.
On March 18 2014 23:34 Axieoqu wrote: My favorite exercise is to climb one or two grades easier problems than normally with one side facing the wall for the whole problem. Then climb the same problem with the other side facing the wall. The two main benefits: a) forces you to think how leg positioning changes depending on your balance and b) lets you practice strange moves and positions you normally wouldn't encounter until reaching harder grades.
I do it every now and then and its really strange how I always seem to find some new ideas and learn more about my climbing. No matter what grades I'm currently working on.
Maybe you guys could share some of your favorite exercises or (mind) tricks?
I really like the "3 second" training.
You climb and whenever you go to the next grip, you hover for 3 second over it with your hand. Obviously, it is really static, but it makes you really aware moving controlled and positioning effectively etc..
I even had routes were I got less pumped this way then when I did the route before normally. Because of all the focus on effective movement. Makes you think what a horrible climber I am sometimes (always) :/
You can do something similar on toprope routes in the gym. Climb normally until you get to a clip, reach out to it, hover for seven seconds then continue climbing. Good practice if you're just making the transition into sport climbing.
argh i'm still going only once a week, can't fit in more. really annoyed. as a result i'm still stuck at the same level as before physically. i'm still learning stuff but it's so slow like this
How often do you guys need new climbing shoes? I've been going like 2 times a week at a climbing gym and my new pair is already starting to get a hole (like 3 months old). I guess the walls at my local gym are very rough which is cool because it gives you nice grip but if you slip you leave a lot of rubber. Probably I could improve the lifetime by improving my footwork though.
On June 13 2014 22:38 Epoxide wrote: Most likely want to have a bit better footwork, I usually change/get repairs after 6-7 months.
Exactly this. When you have good technique you precisely put your feet where they need to be without scratching over the wall or other stuff scraping your shoes. Watch good climbers and see how planned and where they place their hand and feet.
On June 03 2014 02:56 Sassback wrote: Did anyone else watch the Bouldering World Cup in Toronto yesterday? Definentely made me wish it wasn't summertime and so dam hot outside! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpaX6_XHcqk
Thanks to this I am now addicted to watching other IFSC World Cup vids.
At work I was honoured to name a new ice axe. I offered the name "Zealot", the CEO agreed... Long live the protoss!!! Right now only the prototype exists, I'll try to post it when it is done (if it doesn't go wrong with the TL policy of advertising)
On June 27 2014 01:58 IAmWithStupid wrote: At work I was honoured to name a new ice axe. I offered the name "Zealot", the CEO agreed... Long live the protoss!!! Right now only the prototype exists, I'll try to post it when it is done (if it doesn't go wrong with the TL policy of advertising)
Classical ice axe as it is. Precision-guided casted head is made from the hardened stainless steel. The head’s design ensures the grip to be very comfortable. There is a rubber-coated handle at the bottom of the handle, which enhances the adherence and decreases the climber’s hand frigorism.
The story is simple... We got an order from military guys, 20000 pieces... We had to show the samples in three days after the request, but at that time we only ordered the mould for the casting, so we had to make this head on our programmed numerical control (CNC) machines - 6 kg of cut and 4 hours of machining:
upped my frequency to twice a week now. v2s are pretty standard now. did my first few v3s. v4s look impossible. ahh!!! progress feels so good. i love this constant "ok i can do these now but WTF @ one grade higher". there's so many things to work on. i also want to get in shape now and lose some weight. for someone who's always despised exercise, bouldering has been a very strange experience.
Just returned from my first bouldering trip to Fontainebleau and it was just as awesome as expected. Easy access, infinite amount of great problems, superb stone quality. Definitely would recommend to anybody! We chose semi-randomly Rocher Canon and J.A.Martin due to wide range of difficulties available.
The grades sure didn't make me feel like the world champion though. Glad I didn't check them closer until after climbing haha.
On September 25 2014 21:31 Axieoqu wrote: Just returned from my first bouldering trip to Fontainebleau and it was just as awesome as expected. Easy access, infinite amount of great problems, superb stone quality. Definitely would recommend to anybody! We chose semi-randomly Rocher Canon and J.A.Martin due to wide range of difficulties available.
The grades sure didn't make me feel like the world champion though. Glad I didn't check them closer until after climbing haha.
Hah and you didn't contact me! I was there for 5 weeks, J.A martin is located in my childhood village like 1 km from where I was. Well done;)!
So let's go through my 5 weeks in Bleau! I can see my level has improved, now I could do most of the orange routes. Still some special boulders giving me a challenge but they feel close.
Crags visited: Rocher Fin Diplodocus J.A Martin Rocher des Potets Guichot Grande Montagne Rocher de la Cathedrale Potala Cul de Chien
Also wanted to do but didn't have time: 91.1, 95.2, Canche Aux Merciers
Indeed it was dry and around 22C (71F) everyday for 4 weeks out of 5.. And even when it rained during the first week, the rocks were dry on the afternoon. Sandstone is sick fast to dry.
I'm almost born there and I still wonder how many stones and how they are so perfect for climbing. I'm going again there for a week on October the 22nd.
On January 16 2015 00:47 nikj wrote: Anyone been watching the news on the Dawn Wall attempt? They made it to the top pretty cool stuff. Hope a nice doc comes out soon would love to watch.
So I work for a tree care company (I'm rather new) but as such climbing trees is required. My boss is an incredible tree climber and goes to international competitions. Anyone here do tree climbing?
I've been climbing for about 3 years or so, mostly bouldering V5-6 and sport 5.11-12. I live in Southern California part of the year, but mostly on the Central Coast. Anyways, if there are any people that live in LA/SB that would be interested in doing some sweet bouldering in Santa Barbara for a day let me know. Sadly I am lacking partners with enthusiasm to drive out there currently .
Might as well add me to the list Digit.655 on Starcraft.
I'm thinking of checking out the local climbing gym in my city in the next couple weeks when my schedule calms down a bit. Is it worth paying for group lessons for footwork tutorials/climbing technique or is it just a waste of money? I'm not particularly on a tight budget, but I'd rather not pay for stuff that's easy enough to pick up on your own.
I'll likely be going a few times with my friend who has done a chunk of climbing previously. I'm not sure what level of skill she's at. Perhaps she's able to teach me enough to get started?
On March 16 2015 12:53 Grobyc wrote: I'm thinking of checking out the local climbing gym in my city in the next couple weeks when my schedule calms down a bit. Is it worth paying for group lessons for footwork tutorials/climbing technique or is it just a waste of money? I'm not particularly on a tight budget, but I'd rather not pay for stuff that's easy enough to pick up on your own.
I'll likely be going a few times with my friend who has done a chunk of climbing previously. I'm not sure what level of skill she's at. Perhaps she's able to teach me enough to get started?
I wouldn't call it waste of money, just probably not worth it. If you are planning on climbing regularly with someone else and actively trying to improve then you shouldn't need it. It's definitely not something you should start of immediately with.
On March 16 2015 12:53 Grobyc wrote: I'm thinking of checking out the local climbing gym in my city in the next couple weeks when my schedule calms down a bit. Is it worth paying for group lessons for footwork tutorials/climbing technique or is it just a waste of money? I'm not particularly on a tight budget, but I'd rather not pay for stuff that's easy enough to pick up on your own.
I'll likely be going a few times with my friend who has done a chunk of climbing previously. I'm not sure what level of skill she's at. Perhaps she's able to teach me enough to get started?
Yeah, I recommend trying it for a while and chatting with other climbers. You pick up technique and lingo as you go. You'll know when you're ready for some focused practice. If you have a buddy with a little experience that's perfect.
On March 16 2015 06:22 EpidemicSC wrote: Hello fellow TL climbers!
I've been climbing for about 3 years or so, mostly bouldering V5-6 and sport 5.11-12. I live in Southern California part of the year, but mostly on the Central Coast. Anyways, if there are any people that live in LA/SB that would be interested in doing some sweet bouldering in Santa Barbara for a day let me know. Sadly I am lacking partners with enthusiasm to drive out there currently .
Might as well add me to the list Digit.655 on Starcraft.
Yay more TL climbers :D
I'm in SLO from time to time, maybe we can climb somewhere central coast. Bouldering for now but I'm gonna try rope this summer.
On March 16 2015 12:53 Grobyc wrote: I'm thinking of checking out the local climbing gym in my city in the next couple weeks when my schedule calms down a bit. Is it worth paying for group lessons for footwork tutorials/climbing technique or is it just a waste of money? I'm not particularly on a tight budget, but I'd rather not pay for stuff that's easy enough to pick up on your own.
I'll likely be going a few times with my friend who has done a chunk of climbing previously. I'm not sure what level of skill she's at. Perhaps she's able to teach me enough to get started?
You'll learn as you go, especially since you have a friend who already kinda knows what she's doing. It's too bad neither of us were climbing when you visited last time haha.
I'm in SLO from time to time, maybe we can climb somewhere central coast. Bouldering for now but I'm gonna try rope this summer.
Awesome! I'm a student here in SLO and mostly free on weekends. Sadly, the bouldering is limited to about 3 or 4 boulders (of decent quality though). But there are some sweet top rope and sport climbs in the area, even some overlooking the beach.
I'm in SLO from time to time, maybe we can climb somewhere central coast. Bouldering for now but I'm gonna try rope this summer.
Awesome! I'm a student here in SLO and mostly free on weekends. Sadly, the bouldering is limited to about 3 or 4 boulders (of decent quality though). But there are some sweet top rope and sport climbs in the area, even some overlooking the beach.
Oh cool, yeah I've hit pretty much all the boulder spots I know of, and seen some really enticing top rope stuff. I'll definitely let you know if I head down there.
Ah, I see. Thanks guys. I'll probably hold off on lessons, at least for a bit until I discover things a bit on my own and know how fast I'd like to progress.
On March 16 2015 12:53 Grobyc wrote: I'm thinking of checking out the local climbing gym in my city in the next couple weeks when my schedule calms down a bit. Is it worth paying for group lessons for footwork tutorials/climbing technique or is it just a waste of money? I'm not particularly on a tight budget, but I'd rather not pay for stuff that's easy enough to pick up on your own.
I'll likely be going a few times with my friend who has done a chunk of climbing previously. I'm not sure what level of skill she's at. Perhaps she's able to teach me enough to get started?
You'll learn as you go, especially since you have a friend who already kinda knows what she's doing. It's too bad neither of us were climbing when you visited last time haha.
I suppose next time I visit (I have no idea when or what I would be there for lol) or when you come to the Okanagan we'll have to go ^^
Probably, I'm the only iceclimber / drytooling enthusiast here, but I still want to share some pics from UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Kirov. All the pictures belong to UIAA photographers.
Figure 4 is when you put your leg on your arm to reach futher with your other hand. It is obvious why it is called "figure 4" + Show Spoiler +
Sportsmen use really crazy angles with their tools. The tool in the left hand is situated horizontally which is usually forbidden in regular mountaineering. + Show Spoiler +
What's the appeal of climbing an artificial wall with tools? If I were to climb with ice tools I would do it because of the experience of climbing on ice not as a sport. Maybe I could get behind it if I had already done some ice-climbing but in my mind ice-climbing is much more rooted in traditional alpine climbing rather than sport climbing.
This week I went climbing with a friend and we got to see an avalanche go down about 300 meters next to us. There were some climbing walls between us and the avalanche so if we decided to climb there we could have been even closer but I don't think we would have been in any danger regardless. It was my first time climbing on real rock and it was a pretty awesome experience. Having to look for every hold, belaying in steep terrain, being exposed to the sun all day. The climbing we did was rather easy so we could focus on managing our gear. We did a two pitch route which was really fun and kind of eye-opening. If you want to do some serious multi-pitch climbing you have to be way better at managing your gear because otherwise it costs you so much time.
sitting around watching new year's stuff about to start on tv, and thinking about my bouldering goals for next year. progress has been slow this year - last summer, i had just sent my first v3, and i can finally climb every v3 in the gym now (1.5 years, oof). i'm sending a lot more v4s now but always by the skin of my teeth. i realized this past month that it's very valuable to try v5s and stuff out of my range just to get a feel for harder problems. started doing very basic fingerboard and campusing stuff in the last 2 months, too.
for 2016, i'd like to develop my finger strength, put in time on the campus board, and be able to climb all v4s in my gym. would be nice to not be self conscious and take shots at v5 every now and then too for the xp.
gl to all you tl climbers, and happy new year! sorry to use this as my blog, all my progress since i started is in here haha
edit: since i'm blogging, might as well list my progress so far (levels determined by when i think i'm 'solidly' climbing that level - quite subjective) total bouldering time - ~2 years v0 to v1 - 2 months v1 to v2 - 3 months v2 to v3 - 4 months v3 to v4 - 14+ months v4 to v5 - current, since jan 2016
intrigue you climb in alexandria or somewhere in maryland? or did you move, I forget
I just started climbing in early-mid november. Most days my friend and I both go so we toprope, just started 5.9s, but over the holiday he wasn't around so I did some bouldering - sent all but the pinchiest of the v2s at my gym, and tried a v3 but I think it was a bit late in the session for it. I realize the progression up the rating system is going to slow down at this point but hopefully I can still get some good stuff done this year
oh shit antoine, really? i live in dc now, but i go twice a week to earth treks in rockville. they're opening one up closer to you, in arlington i think! will pm
So i dont climb recreationally, but I'm a part time arborist, which is aerial tree service (tree climbing for commercial reasons). I do mostly pruning, but sometimes I do aerial take-downs on oceanside estates in downeast Maine (U.S.A.). I truly enjoy the views, and the technicality of not only climbing, but in some cases, taking down what I'm climbing on, piece by piece.
So apparently there is a climbing thread on TL, I had no idea! Let me present myself quickly: i'm a med student, moved into Grenoble (french city in the alps) 1.5 years ago for my studies and started climbing at the same time. Turns out I really enjoy it, and I live in on the best place in the world to do it . I was a bit out of shape when i started and I guess i'm not really talented, so I only climb 6.b outside (5.10d), and I still have limited experience in multi-pitch routes but I plan on improving that this summer. I also had a great opportunity to start ice climbing with my university, in fact I ice climbed for the first time last tuesday, and went for my first multi-pitch ice on thursday, that was quite an experience :D. Lead climbing on ice is going to be tough mentaly but hopefully if the weather is cold enough I should be able to try it in a couple of weeks.
A photo I took while leaving of the route, obviously it was not something extreme (looks steeper when you're in it though!) but the last pitch took its toll on my arms .. great experience overall and the guy teaching us is a local climbing legend, which makes the whole thing even more awesome.
All of that to say to IAmWithStupid that he is not the onnly iceclimbing enthusiast eventhough i'm a recent convert :D
Hi everyone. I was fortunate enough to be born and raised in and around Yosemite National Park. I live in Mariposa currently and it's a short drive into the valley.
I climb mostly anything, obviously considering my location I have years of experience. If anyone is ever headed to Yosemite, let me know as I can be a partner/guide for those who've never been.
On February 03 2016 12:38 IAmWithStupid wrote: I'm not into bouldering, but this concept really appealed to me, looks fun: + Show Spoiler +
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI7kLrpoqMs
Looks really cool, but that specific game also looks like a fantastic way to promote injury. Climbing isn't about speed, especially when you're starting out, moves should be slow and controlled. Obviously the better you get the faster you can move whilst maintaining control but if I ran a climbing centre I'd be worried I'd be seeing a lot more people hurt themselves if I installed that.
The idea could be used for other things than speed I think though. Like learning or having other objectives than just putting both hand on the last hold.
On February 19 2016 13:19 intrigue wrote: sent my first two v5s, after working on each for a month. feels amazing. solidly v4 now. gonna take a lead climbing class in april woohoo
The augmented realitly climbing is at a gym near me, but that gym is twice as expensive as the one I go to. I understand climbing is a sport that wealthier people enjoy, but it still feels like price gouging. I don't want to pay $100+ a month for your weights/treadmills/yoga classes/whatever, I just want to go climb a few times a week for a reasonable price. Rock gyms are as bad as cable companies; you have to buy the whole package at some absurd cost or get nothing.
Flying to Mallorca for a week of climbing on Sunday.
The last 1.5 years have been a bit frustrating, with shoulder pain that just didn't want to go away, some smaller injuries, and a badly twisted knee that is still only so-so after four months.
What helped a shitton to improve: Yoga. Way better balance and flexibility.
I mainly do sports climbing and trad. But bouldering when I can't find a partner. And I really want to do ice climbing! Here's some pics from an awesome trad climb I did last autumn with my girlfriend: http://imgur.com/a/zHGaO
Edit: I live in Trondheim, Norway. I started bouldering in august 2014 and sports climbing september 2014. My best grade in sports climbing is 6c. Trad is 5b. Bouldering I have no idea!
Brrr, it was frigging cold. My two climbing buddies. Interesting spot, cars and bicyclists were coming up and down that road every couple of minutes, there is actually a route in that overhang with the top almost on the other side of the road.
On March 16 2016 03:47 Rimstalker wrote: Brrr, it was frigging cold. My two climbing buddies. Interesting spot, cars and bicyclists were coming up and down that road every couple of minutes, there is actually a route in that overhang with the top almost on the other side of the road.
Doesnt look like the safest place to belay :D. I wa
On March 16 2016 03:47 Rimstalker wrote: Brrr, it was frigging cold. My two climbing buddies. Interesting spot, cars and bicyclists were coming up and down that road every couple of minutes, there is actually a route in that overhang with the top almost on the other side of the road.
I was supposed to go for a 2 day aid climbing route (A2-A3, with a bivy on a ridge) but it got canceled because our climbing guide hurt his back . I must admit that I was kind of scared, it would have been my first "real" aid route but I really want to try it once.
I had to go for a plan B for the week end, fortunately it was not too bad: 2 day skiing and ski-touring around chamonix with perfect weather + Show Spoiler +
I'm really dying to come back here this summer for some rock climbing!
Had my first climibing trip in the "calanques de marseille" (don't know the word in english, it's a very famous climbing spot on the sea coast near Marseille, with almost 4000 routes and an incredible view on the sea while climbing) That was awesome, going back to outdoor climbing was a bit rough, and i got a little scared when i lead my first route in the multi pitch but it was worth it http://imgur.com/a/SsFFN
Went aid climbing to the most ridiculous spot i've ever been too: it was a 180mhorizontal roof in a huge cave, 40 m above a lake... 5 horizontal pitches, doesnt seem like much but aid climbing is so slow it took us almost 2 days :D.
It's hard to convey how big it is in picture, even though it was very unconfortable to hang in my harness for 8+ hours it was an amazing and surreal experience to walk on the ceiling like that!
So any climbing plan for the summer? I've been debating the idea of organising a trip to corsica but i'm a bit afraid of the heat.. Any idea of good climbing destination that are not too far from france?
EPT
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I'm mostly into sport, but learning trad. A friend took me a couple of pitches up El Cap earlier this year, and it's definitely got me motivated to go back and go higher.![[image loading]](http://abload.de/image.php?img=p8160265xlix6.jpg)
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