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My friend is using one for couple of months with no issues. Not much info about them on the net so there's not much to say other than "why they are so cheap?", unless Cryo stops by sometime
Sandisk has an other model called "ultra plus" which is same price with most other ssd's, there must be some quality difference between them.
SSD's last long and they are reusable when your laptop completes its lifetime, so it maybe better to get a trusted one while spending money.
I don't know much aside from googling that particular model not bringing up many reviews~ my personal opinion is to overspend on stuff that's annoying to replace anyway, i've already had one SSD die on me (which was among the most reputable at the time)
850 evo has the 5 year warranty and should be reliable but i don't really trust samsung to fix a problem if one comes up after the 840/840 evo stuff where they basically just told everyone to deal with it or buy a new drive. Crucial and Intel sound a bit better there
still worth nothing that it's alpha performance, i doubt dx12 drivers are anywhere near mature and that's still Hawaii GPU, so several years old and not latest GCN architecture. However if that affects performance then it's kinda AMD's own fault for re-releasing a two year old GPU in one of the popular price points
Edit: it's definitely stupid to underclock cores to 1 and to disable hyperthreading, but overclocking seems to be good anyway. I don't like these type of records because they're useless in real work.
Edit: it's definitely stupid to underclock cores to 1 and to disable hyperthreading, but overclocking seems to be good anyway. I don't like these type of records because they're useless in real work.
it's interesting nonetheless
i finally pulled the trigger on a skylake i5 and i'm going to mess around with that little sucker
On August 19 2015 06:43 Daye9111 wrote: It loads after the black screen disappears after a few seconds, so no bigger issues... Just looking for a program right now
If you want to access BIOS/EUFI, you need to press F2 during boot. It might be different based on computer, your motherboard manual will tell you if that's the case. By default your computer quickly boots into your OS on the detected drive, but before that there is the option to boot into BIOS. BIOS is where you overclock.
its usually "Delete" button to go into Bios when it boots up.
moderately spam "delete" when it booting on, pressing "Tab" will get rid of the splash screen so you know whats going on. though i dont know if this applies to all systems, its like F10 on some computers.
i'm noob so take my words with a grain of salt, just repeating what i did for my computer. easiest way to overclock slightly is just to increase BCLK (base clock) in bios. i have a i7 920, i'd imagine you can over clock it same way. the default base clock if i recall is 130 or 140 (for my i7 920), i increased it to 160 or 170 to get me from 2.67ghz to 3.5-3.6ghz. i didnt change anything else, rest are "auto". maybe it'll eat up my cpu faster without optimizing but its been stable.
increase it slightly, like by 10. save bios and reboot, open up cpu-z and see how much increase you got and repeat and rinse for more.
It's system specific in my opinion. In my case, it's F2. Older BIOS was F8 or F12 (maybe F8 was safe mode back then), so it definitely changes.
Edit:
Common keys to enter the BIOS are F1, F2, F10, DEL, ESC, as well as key combinations like CTRL + ALT + ESC or CTRL + ALT + DEL, although those are more common on older machines.
On August 19 2015 06:43 Daye9111 wrote: It loads after the black screen disappears after a few seconds, so no bigger issues... Just looking for a program right now
You should really use your motherboard BIOS for all CPU overclocking instead of software
On August 19 2015 06:58 jinorazi wrote: @day9111
its usually "Delete" button to go into Bios when it boots up.
moderately spam "delete" when it booting on, pressing "Tab" will get rid of the splash screen so you know whats going on. though i dont know if this applies to all systems, its like F10 on some computers.
i'm noob so take my words with a grain of salt, just repeating what i did for my computer. easiest way to overclock slightly is just to increase BCLK (base clock) in bios. i have a i7 920, i'd imagine you can over clock it same way. the default base clock if i recall is 130 or 140 (for my i7 920), i increased it to 160 or 170 to get me from 2.67ghz to 3.5-3.6ghz. i didnt change anything else, rest are "auto". maybe it'll eat up my cpu faster without optimizing but its been stable.
increase it slightly, like by 10. save bios and reboot, open up cpu-z and see how much increase you got and repeat and rinse for more.
just google "i7 overclocking" + your motherboard.
2 things that need to be watched out for:
1; auto voltages when OCIng can be very bad, it's much better to manually set the main ones affected. To do that safely you probably need a decent guide - otherwise you might have a voltage that will kill your CPU in a month or a year and you wouldn't know about it
2; These CPU's had turbo multipliers set as if they had 133mhz base clock. For example they can go up by 2 multipliers when few cores are loaded highly, so at stock that would be +266mhz. If you use 170mhz base clock, it would go up +340mhz because 170*2 is more than 133*2. Disabling turbo or adjusting settings so that you have a constant maximum speed is probably better
What is your monitor's native resolution? 1080p, But I plan on moving to 1440p with this new computer.
What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings? I'm mostly a Dota 2 player, but I also play Arma, Dayz, The total war series. Maybe I'll get back into SC eventually . I'd like to be able to play these and newer on the highest settings if possible with my budget.
What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming? Internet, watching TV/Movies, nothing else I can think of that would matter.
Do you intend to overclock? Probably not, as I am computer build illiterate.
Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire? I don't think I need to go to those lengths. I only know what it is based on the first post in this thread, if you guys think I need it then let me know.
Do you need an operating system? Yes, I'll get windows 10
Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget? I currently have a 24''1080p monitor, but I'm probably going to upgrade with this build to 24-28'' 1440p. I'm happy with my current keyboard, mouse, and headphones.
If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify. none.
What country will you be buying your parts in? Canada
If you have any retailer preferences, please specify. I'm going to go through NCIX Canada Because the build charge is only $50. The monitor I can buy from anywhere if you guys have any good suggestions.
I'd stick with 1080p TBH. I have 1440p and even though the monitor itself quite nice it's pretty underwhelming considering the performance hit you give up to do it (you can get just as good 1080p's). The most useful thing I've found for 1440p is having windows side by side. You end up needing to zoom many things in to make them usable, though (pretty much everything that isn't graphics). For instance, I run TL at 150% zoom to avoid tiny text.
1440p is good but it's mostly about having a bigger screen with similar pixel density rather than improving the pixel density of your screen. You have ~77% more pixels, but the screen has over 1.5x as much area as well to spread those pixels out on. As a result aliasing isn't reduced very much, stuff doesn't look that much crisper etc - you mainly have more screen area
The true high PPI displays are usually higher resolution now - like 4k 28" for lack of other options, nobody seems to want to make a high PPI display at 20-24 inches - and software support isn't entirely there yet for higher PPI displays - most programs just assume that you have about 100 pixels per inch, because that's what 22" 1080p, 27" 1440p and displays for the last few decades have approximately used. If you have a lot more pixels, suddenly everything is really small and you need to use scaling because the software doesn't compensate for it properly. Stuff like game UI elements becoming too small to be readable at your preferred viewing distance.
High ppi displays are cool, but ~100ppi screen (~27" 1440p if you want ~77% more screen area and graphical demand, ~22" 1080p if you don't) with some antialiasing is still the way to go i think. Multiple screens improve desktop work a lot but are not amazing for gaming.
I have a strong preference for >60hz because the latency and motion at 60fps are still well within where it makes a big difference for me; if you have a button that improves FPS by 1.2x, like from 20 to 24 to 29 to 35, 41, 50, 60, 72, 86, 103, 124, 149, 178 - the point where i would stop easily telling the difference each step would be at least as high as the 124 to 149 step. I can't verify further for lack of equipment Each step in that list is equally hard to scale from - going from 20 to 24fps is a 20% increase in hardware demand, going from 103 to 124fps is a ~20% increase in hardware demand too. The level where it stops mattering as much varies based on personal perception, what you're doing with whatever game/task you're running etc - but 60 is a low number that's a somewhat arbitrary limit at the moment, it's nowhere near the limit of benefit. That being said, a lot of the games listed won't happily run at huge framerates.