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Computer Build, Upgrade & Buying Resource Thread - Page 483

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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
April 25 2015 06:38 GMT
#9641
Xilence is kind of well known in parts of Europe I would think. I think a couple years back they were acquired by Listan (be quiet!) to play in the budget range. I think the Red Wing R3 should predate that time. Maybe this model is newer, though, as some searching shows some older examples of Red Wing R3 units with APFC, so this may be a newer offering intended to reduce costs even further.

You probably can't trust it to any kind of longevity, which is exacerbated by it being used, and certainly not near full power, but an i3/GTX 750 won't stress it much. Depends what you really want from the computer, but I wouldn't want to use it.
Incognoto
Profile Blog Joined May 2010
France10239 Posts
April 25 2015 07:23 GMT
#9642
Buy a used PSU only if you're the kind of person who doesn't mind buying used underwear from a stranger.
maru lover forever
Dunmer
Profile Joined April 2012
United Kingdom568 Posts
April 25 2015 11:29 GMT
#9643
I got a hyper 212 evo. I was wondering is there a way to remove the thermal paste left on the cpu without using rubbing alcohol?

I remember a few pages back one of the blue posters said you can get away with a t shirt
All Ireland Starcraft, check us out on Facebook
bluegarfield
Profile Joined December 2010
Singapore1128 Posts
April 25 2015 13:13 GMT
#9644
yeah use some damped cloth or with Qtip. Then may be those microfibre clothes to clean up whatever residue left behind. I asked the same question and tried that method, nothing wrong so far
ELqQQT_T
Hyren
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
United States817 Posts
April 25 2015 15:36 GMT
#9645
I'm thinking about buying a used graphics card on Craigslist. Anyone here have experience buying a used graphics card? What steps should I take to make sure I don't get ripped off?
Power-tripping mod for Trump's stream
MisterFred
Profile Joined October 2010
United States2033 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-04-25 17:37:29
April 25 2015 17:31 GMT
#9646
@Dunmer

Rubbing alcohol (or, not quite as good, a good stiff vodka) just makes life easier because alcohol not only removes the thermal paste easier, it also evaporates really quickly. If you use damp cotton, check to make sure you don't leave behind fibers, and wait some time after removing the thermal paste to do anything else (to make sure any water dries up).

Basically:
Rubbing alcohol = very cheap, the trip to the store is probably quicker than the time you should wait to make sure water dries
Vodka = don't have to go to the store, have to wait longer than rubbing alcohol, less time than water
Water = screw it, it comes out of the tap, but now I have to wait hours or spend a lot of time waving a fan over the CPU/Mobo (or risk that a visual inspection is sufficient to ensure everything is dry)
"The victor? Not the highest scoring, nor the best strategist, nor the best tactitian. The victor was he that was closest to the Tao of FFA." -.Praetor
MisterFred
Profile Joined October 2010
United States2033 Posts
April 25 2015 17:35 GMT
#9647
@Hyren

Used graphics cards are going to work basically as good as a new one, or be broken-beyond-repair. There are basically two ways it can be broken: the cooling no longer works/fans are unbearably loud or it's a brick. If you're buying off craigslist, have the seller come to your house (or take your computer to his), visually inspect the fans, then install the card, check that it works, and pay the money after the install. If you can find a seller willing to wait that amount of time. Also, make sure you check that you're getting the advertised model (meaning, don't buy a 960 when the guy says its a 980).

Rarely, an aggressive overclocker may have degraded the quality of the card, but frankly I don't think it's a major concern. Personally, I would not buy from craigslist without the above restrictions due to the lack of a feedback rating keeping sellers in line. If you were buying from somewhere like the marketplace on overclock.net, I'd be more confident in a working product without checking it. But then, the prices for used items on overclock.net generally convince me buying new is worth the extra $5.
"The victor? Not the highest scoring, nor the best strategist, nor the best tactitian. The victor was he that was closest to the Tao of FFA." -.Praetor
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20297 Posts
April 25 2015 18:02 GMT
#9648
But then, the prices for used items on overclock.net generally convince me buying new is worth the extra $5.


There's a lot of good stuff. A guy sold a pair of good z87 boards for $50 each recently, haswell i5 for $100 etc. The good deals don't stay up for long though.
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
GreenHorizons
Profile Blog Joined April 2011
United States23273 Posts
April 25 2015 20:57 GMT
#9649
On April 26 2015 02:35 MisterFred wrote:
@Hyren

Used graphics cards are going to work basically as good as a new one, or be broken-beyond-repair. There are basically two ways it can be broken: the cooling no longer works/fans are unbearably loud or it's a brick. If you're buying off craigslist, have the seller come to your house (or take your computer to his), visually inspect the fans, then install the card, check that it works, and pay the money after the install. If you can find a seller willing to wait that amount of time. Also, make sure you check that you're getting the advertised model (meaning, don't buy a 960 when the guy says its a 980).

Rarely, an aggressive overclocker may have degraded the quality of the card, but frankly I don't think it's a major concern. Personally, I would not buy from craigslist without the above restrictions due to the lack of a feedback rating keeping sellers in line. If you were buying from somewhere like the marketplace on overclock.net, I'd be more confident in a working product without checking it. But then, the prices for used items on overclock.net generally convince me buying new is worth the extra $5.


I would just add that I thought about selling my card on CL a few times and I was always torn on whether I would mention the HDMI port got broken. So I would suggest making sure all ports work correctly too. It's not terribly different from buying a car on CL. Some people tell you everything that is wrong with it, others might mention some of the problems, still others pretend like it's a cherry classic.

"People like to look at history and think 'If that was me back then, I would have...' We're living through history, and the truth is, whatever you are doing now is probably what you would have done then" "Scratch a Liberal..."
Incognoto
Profile Blog Joined May 2010
France10239 Posts
April 25 2015 21:44 GMT
#9650
On April 26 2015 03:02 Cyro wrote:
Show nested quote +
But then, the prices for used items on overclock.net generally convince me buying new is worth the extra $5.


There's a lot of good stuff. A guy sold a pair of good z87 boards for $50 each recently, haswell i5 for $100 etc. The good deals don't stay up for long though.


all the good deals are in america q_q

well

you find a good deal in europe as well on ebay, on ocassion

i have monies coming up soon from internship, i kind of want a new monitor

but damn all that shit is expensive
maru lover forever
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20297 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-04-25 23:19:07
April 25 2015 23:14 GMT
#9651
On April 26 2015 06:44 Incognoto wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 26 2015 03:02 Cyro wrote:
But then, the prices for used items on overclock.net generally convince me buying new is worth the extra $5.


There's a lot of good stuff. A guy sold a pair of good z87 boards for $50 each recently, haswell i5 for $100 etc. The good deals don't stay up for long though.


all the good deals are in america q_q

well

you find a good deal in europe as well on ebay, on ocassion

i have monies coming up soon from internship, i kind of want a new monitor

but damn all that shit is expensive


They don't seem to like dieing though. My secondary monitor is one that was in my family for ages before i got my first widescreen monitor in 2008. It's probably well over a decade old

They hold value pretty well too compared to some other PC parts. Monitor tech at the same price point has been advancing painfully slowly, so if it works then it's all good for somebody else to use. We have those fancy 144hz gsync monitors and sure they're better than 5 year old stuff, but they cost three times as much as well - not like comparing a gtx580 to a 960 (way under half of the price, less power, substantially faster)

that deal in particular:

- Intel Haswell 4570 (non-k) - $100 (will throw in two motherboards with it for $50 for both and you can use whichever one you like more - MSI z87 G55 & ASRock Extreme 4 Z87)

- Intel Sandy Bridge 2500k + Gigabyte Z77 UD5H (one of the best z77 boards that I paid over $200 for) - $150 for both of them together.

- EVGA Supernova 1000w gold PSU - $90 (bought it in 2014 and one of the better PSUs you can get)


I saw the topic 3 minutes after it was created and somebody had already sniped half of the stuff
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Craton
Profile Blog Joined December 2009
United States17250 Posts
April 26 2015 01:56 GMT
#9652
I've still got a monitor from 2007 that's not much worse for the wear. One stuck button on the bezel and one buzzing fix after 2.5 years done for free (minus shipping) from the 3 year warranty.

I've got another two from 2010 and 2011 that are still going strong without issues. And these were all average TN monitors.

At least in my experience monitors last a pretty good amount of time.
twitch.tv/cratonz
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-04-26 02:51:06
April 26 2015 02:50 GMT
#9653
Hm, monitors that old are probably CFL-backlit models. The colors can drift over time appreciably (more so than LED-backlit models). That said, they should be a whole lot better than the earlier LCD monitors, which had terrible pixel response times.

But that has more to do with age than the advancement of technology, really. Kind of.
Incognoto
Profile Blog Joined May 2010
France10239 Posts
April 26 2015 09:00 GMT
#9654
monitors are great investments for sure.

i kind of want to try 144 hz but I also want to try IPS and there's nothing that actually does both without really breaking the wallet. i'm still fine at 1080p is a nice size as well


maru lover forever
Craton
Profile Blog Joined December 2009
United States17250 Posts
April 26 2015 16:29 GMT
#9655
On April 26 2015 11:50 Myrmidon wrote:
Hm, monitors that old are probably CFL-backlit models. The colors can drift over time appreciably (more so than LED-backlit models).

They are. I'm sure the colors have drifted a bit, but two of them sit next to U2313HMs and the color difference isn't much.
twitch.tv/cratonz
mantequilla
Profile Blog Joined June 2012
Turkey779 Posts
April 26 2015 19:07 GMT
#9656
Me again, asking about a PSU.

Seasonic 350SFE

Is this one Ok for an i3+gtx750 setup?
Age of Mythology forever!
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
April 26 2015 20:08 GMT
#9657
You're buying locally and are just linking a page for some kind of informational purposes, right?

Low-end unpainted models by Seasonic are okay, with worse longevity than their retail models (not because of the paint, of course, but the other cost-cutting measures). They frequently have shorter cables too. That's an old and discontinued model but should be reasonable.

However, do you realize it's an SFX model? The dimensions are smaller than the much more widely used ATX format, though the cabling is compatible. The screw holes on a case for an ATX power supply won't be in the correct positions for an SFX power supply. Some SFX power supplies come with an adapter plate; something like this won't.
mantequilla
Profile Blog Joined June 2012
Turkey779 Posts
April 26 2015 20:39 GMT
#9658
On April 27 2015 05:08 Myrmidon wrote:
You're buying locally and are just linking a page for some kind of informational purposes, right?


Yes.


Low-end unpainted models by Seasonic are okay, with worse longevity than their retail models (not because of the paint, of course, but the other cost-cutting measures). They frequently have shorter cables too. That's an old and discontinued model but should be reasonable.

However, do you realize it's an SFX model? The dimensions are smaller than the much more widely used ATX format, though the cabling is compatible. The screw holes on a case for an ATX power supply won't be in the correct positions for an SFX power supply. Some SFX power supplies come with an adapter plate; something like this won't.


Hmm, I didn't know about the size issue, thanks for mentioning it. So it won't fit on a standard mATX.

Outside-US price issue is more serious when it comes to PSU's. There are cheap locally manufactured brands but I can't be sure they won't fry my motherboard.
Age of Mythology forever!
EdVonSchleck
Profile Joined April 2015
11 Posts
Last Edited: 2015-04-27 11:54:52
April 27 2015 11:50 GMT
#9659
Hey guys,

can I get some feedback on my planned build:

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/p/9CcwXL

I am particularly interested in your opinions on the PSU. Also, I might toss out the Optical Drive.

What is your budget?
1400€ max.

What is your monitor's native resolution?
1080p

What games do you intend to play on this computer? What settings?
Newer games like Shadows of Mordor, high settings if possible

What do you intend to use the computer for besides gaming?
Nothing relevant

Do you intend to overclock?
Not sure yet

Do you intend to do SLI / Crossfire?
No

Do you need an operating system?
Yes

Do you need a monitor or any other peripherals and is this part of your budget?
No and no

If you have any requirements or brand preferences, please specify.
I'd like to go with the GeForce 970 and yes, I'm aware of the recent uproar about the 4gb/3.5gb video memory thing.

What country will you be buying your parts in?
Germany

If you have any retailer preferences, please specify.
No

Edit: Forgot to mention, I'd like a quiet system. I know it's always a tradeoff, but I'd be willing to spend a little more on components if they are silent.
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
April 27 2015 20:25 GMT
#9660
If you're willing to spend up to the Core i5-4590k level, get an aftermarket CPU cooler for lower noise, and go for a motherboard that isn't among the cheapest available, you may as well just get a Z97 motherboard model so you have the (official) option to overclock if you want. H97 motherboards artificially don't let you overclock (at least not officially) and many don't really have the hardware or feature support for it anyway.

The Enermax cooler is not very good for the price, though. For just a little more you can get a Thermalrigth HR-02 Macho; better options that are cheaper are also available. Double check height and clearance with the case once you decide on a case.

The WD Purple hard drives are optimized for a very specific type of workload and probably aren't as good for consumer use. I think the Red (which has some features useful for NAS but is fine for general storage usage) or Green (general storage) models may be quieter too, though maybe not. In any case, the Purple is an unconventional and maybe inappropriate choice.

That's not really a good price on a Corsair 200R and you probably want a case with less direct holes and paths for noise to escape. Even if you don't spend up to say the Fractal Design Define level, there are some alternatives. Actually, if you're not interested in an optical drive, the very new Define S is a bit cheaper. From Corsair, the cheapest reasonable option may be the 330R.

The power supply is somewhere you can save money because you can find actively cooled options that are sufficiently quiet enough for the power draws you're looking at. Once you hit the CPU and GPU hard enough, their fans (or even a hard drive spinning) may make more noise than the quieter actively cooled power supplies, sometimes by a lot. That said, the 970 Strix is a lot quieter than many other cards. You could use the Cooler Master VS series or if you want to skimp, maybe one of the lower-end Be Quiet models.
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