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Thanks guys. That is basically the response I expected but wanted to know for sure, since I'm not really on the pulse of this stuff.
I am thinking a 1440 monitor might be the best thing to replace my samsung synchmaster. Basically just sit on the rig I have for the time being. Then when the skylake comes out, upgrade CPU, Mobo and memory.
I don't tend to play graphics intense games. Generally they are CPU bottlenecked. MMOs and source engine type stuff. Might upgrade the GPU anyway, after the monitor before the skylake CPUs.
Would I have to move up my PSU a little if I started overclocking? Or can that particular 450w handle it? I have to admit, PSUs confuse me quite a bit, knowing that the watts is a poor metric to judge by.
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On May 25 2014 06:09 Foxxan wrote:You mean those cards work WITH any heatsink, right? A typo from you?
Or did i misunderstand?
I will assume now if i put those big cards on part 2 and 4, it will work just fine. If iam wrong please say so.
If you're talking about RAM than yes. The heatsink will just block slot one (the one closest to the CPU socket) so you'll need low profile for that one slot, the rest can be any height.
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On May 25 2014 06:48 Brettatron wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Thanks guys. That is basically the response I expected but wanted to know for sure, since I'm not really on the pulse of this stuff.
I am thinking a 1440 monitor might be the best thing to replace my samsung synchmaster. Basically just sit on the rig I have for the time being. Then when the skylake comes out, upgrade CPU, Mobo and memory.
I don't tend to play graphics intense games. Generally they are CPU bottlenecked. MMOs and source engine type stuff. Might upgrade the GPU anyway, after the monitor before the skylake CPUs.
Would I have to move up my PSU a little if I started overclocking? Or can that particular 450w handle it? I have to admit, PSUs confuse me quite a bit, knowing that the watts is a poor metric to judge by.
Antec Neo Eco 450C is fine for light overclocking.
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Thanks for all the help tonight.
I will be back tho(soon). Terror you more!
Great thread to. I have read alot and will read more. Didnt knew a got damn thing about computers but now i already know alot more just for reading this.
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Hey guys, I have 2 hard drives in my desktop. The SSD is cool, but the HDD got corrupted apparently. I need to replace the HDD of course, but I was wondering, should I get a hybrid drive and a HDD or should I just get another HDD and not worry about a third drive. I was wondering because this time really made me think about what would happen if one of my hard drives corrupted, that I should probably have a place to have backups.
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Hybrid drives in most cases are a waste of money in a desktop environment.
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To answer the question I am currently running a 2 monitor setup using my Toshiba L4300 50" Widescreen tv @ 1080 and 120hz refresh as my primary display my secondary is a Samsung 27" synchmaster S27C350H with a 5ms response time.
I know that I am likely not going to fully push a pair of 780's or even a 295X underload and that the TV I am using as a primary display doesn't match up with the hardware driving it. I also plan on getting a 2nd 50" tv and going to a 3 display set up. Its hard to find a big display that I can wall mount to use as a monitor when I am sitting 6-8' away from it. A 27" and even a 32" monitor just isn't adequate; my PC is more then just a games machine at this point it is the hub for all media in the household, so I am bottlenecked by what they can display. Although I don't think a 50" 1080p tv with a 120hz refresh rate is that big of a bottleneck
***edit***
also going to state that I used to be an enthusiast for big aircoolers until my Scythe bent the pins on my motherboard while I was moving my computer literally 3 feet to pull it out to plug in a new keyboard. had to spend 45 minutes with a mechanical pencil slowly bending the pins back the right way. After that incident I converted over to closed loop water cooling solutions. Its something to consider for people going for big air. I had everything tightened correctly I cross torqued the screws to make sure equal pressure was on all around so it wasn't a mounting mistake just bad luck when I moved it. Big air is good at what it does but it add issues such as ram clearance; and making your system #dicey to move around.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
I've transported system by car and train across countries with silver arrow attached, while probably a bad idea, i'm not worried about stuff like that happening from moving a system three feet (maybe something with that particular mounting hardware? That sounds crazy..)
Does your 1080p tv take a native 120hz input, or does it just do frame interpolation etc? That's quite important. I'm curious for input lag figures too, but it's hard to measure that unless you wanted to take a camera, put your mouse hand and the screen in view and wave mouse around (for very approximate values)
Not that i'm telling you to buy an air cooler btw, just discussing and curious for setup. I've heard both nightmare stories and a lot of good stuff about both solutions, so i honestly buy for aesthetics* and performance. High end air and CLC's are pretty much just pick whatever you want for both right now, but CLC's can give better CPU temperatures (well, less worse) when mounted as intake if you have insufficient case airflow and lots of heat generation in the case (that's probably the main advantage)
*+ Show Spoiler +This looks pretty beautiful to me ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/67qK4u2l.jpg)
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What would you guys go for: gtx 660 OC or r9 280x?
Personally i'm kinda favoring 660 just because it's nvidia, but friend swears to 280. dunno what to decide :/
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
280/280x is better. 280 is better value than 280x. 280/280x are very close in performance and not in the same performance tier as the 660 - they compete more than the 770, which has 8 SMX and 256 bit memory bus (as opposed to the 660 which has 5 SMX and 192 bit bus)
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Most, like 99% of televisions, do not take 120Hz input.
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On May 25 2014 09:55 Cyro wrote:I've transported system by car and train across countries with silver arrow attached, while probably a bad idea, i'm not worried about stuff like that happening from moving a system three feet (maybe something with that particular mounting hardware? That sounds crazy..) Does your 1080p tv take a native 120hz input, or does it just do frame interpolation etc? That's quite important. I'm curious for input lag figures too, but it's hard to measure that unless you wanted to take a camera, put your mouse hand and the screen in view and wave mouse around (for very approximate values) Not that i'm telling you to buy an air cooler btw, just discussing and curious for setup. I've heard both nightmare stories and a lot of good stuff about both solutions, so i honestly buy for aesthetics* and performance. High end air and CLC's are pretty much just pick whatever you want for both right now, but CLC's can give better CPU temperatures (well, less worse) when mounted as intake if you have insufficient case airflow and lots of heat generation in the case (that's probably the main advantage) * + Show Spoiler +This looks pretty beautiful to me
Not really sure Its hooked up via an HDMI cable, its a 1080p tv with 120hz refresh thats the extent of my knowledge on it. but really because of where my tv is located its not really an option to get a monitor over a tv. And the aircooler that did the damage was a scythe mugen v2.
http://tweakers.net/ext/f/CfqUzSRGe8mtYKhwo5solFFN/full.jpg
it was the biggest aircooler I've ever owned and it was the last one I ever owned after the incident. I'm not gonna bash big air coolers but once bitten... If I couldn't straighten the pins I basically wrecked a pricey motherboard at that time for a cooler that I got for less then 50$'s. I view big air as something you get when you know your not moving your computer at all and to be taken off if your moving your system anywhere.
I will say that when I was mounting it with the hardware provided it felt really sketchy given the weight on it and I was worried about the amount of pressure it would put on the processor and the board. It worked flawlessly though for about 2ish years then one day I go and move it and my motherboard is reading processor failed. At first I was freaking out cause I thought I wrecked the CPU. then when I took the cooler off and popped the processor out a few of the outside pins were bent noticeably. it was an easy fix with a .7mm mechanical pencil, it fits over the pins easily and with abit of finesse you can get everything lined up again. But after reinstalling the cpu and posting with the stock cooler I decided to buy an H80 and not have to worry about it again.
*edit*
Just checked on the catalyst control center and apparently my 6870's in crossfire are only driving my TV @ 1080p @60hz
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
Yea, most tv's just don't take 120hz inputs, even if advertized as 120hz or 600hz / whatever. They're often inflated numbers because of interpolation or the way the display works (for the "600hz" tv's)
If it does 120hz, it's probably through dual link dvi or displayport - I don't think HDMI has enough bandwidth for a 1080p120 input, at least not mainstream revisions of it
TV's in general often have a lot of input lag too - on my vg248qe i'm able to consistently get around 165ms on this test i just downloaded - http://www.draebenstedt.de/reaction/reaction.html - with a best run of 155ms - default settings, aside from mouse sensitivity changed, and the "only horizontal movement" checked. The person doing the test is a massive factor though, so you can't compare with just that - If you have multiple screens, it's probably worth checking how -YOU- perform on each one, because some screens, particularly tv's, have pretty ridiculous delays compared to some computer monitors
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On May 25 2014 12:29 Cyro wrote:Yea, most tv's just don't take 120hz inputs, even if advertized as 120hz or 600hz / whatever. They're often inflated numbers because of interpolation or the way the display works (for the "600hz" tv's) If it does 120hz, it's probably through dual link dvi or displayport - I don't think HDMI has enough bandwidth for a 1080p120 input, at least not mainstream revisions of it TV's in general often have a lot of input lag too - on my vg248qe i'm able to consistently get around 165ms on this test i just downloaded - http://www.draebenstedt.de/reaction/reaction.html - with a best run of 155ms - default settings, aside from mouse sensitivity changed, and the "only horizontal movement" checked. If you have multiple screens, it's probably worth checking how you perform on each one, because some screens, particularly tv's, have pretty ridiculous delays compared to a native 144hz input (or even good 60hz input) 1080p computer monitor
I'm getting a consistent 244ms with a best of 237ms not good all in all. my monitor didn't fair much better it claims a 5ms and I am instead sitting at 138ms. Its either that or my fine motorskill is absolutely crap tacular.
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On May 25 2014 12:42 B_Type13X2 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On May 25 2014 12:29 Cyro wrote:Yea, most tv's just don't take 120hz inputs, even if advertized as 120hz or 600hz / whatever. They're often inflated numbers because of interpolation or the way the display works (for the "600hz" tv's) If it does 120hz, it's probably through dual link dvi or displayport - I don't think HDMI has enough bandwidth for a 1080p120 input, at least not mainstream revisions of it TV's in general often have a lot of input lag too - on my vg248qe i'm able to consistently get around 165ms on this test i just downloaded - http://www.draebenstedt.de/reaction/reaction.html - with a best run of 155ms - default settings, aside from mouse sensitivity changed, and the "only horizontal movement" checked. If you have multiple screens, it's probably worth checking how you perform on each one, because some screens, particularly tv's, have pretty ridiculous delays compared to a native 144hz input (or even good 60hz input) 1080p computer monitor I'm getting a consistent 244ms with a best of 237ms not good all in all. my monitor didn't fair much better it claims a 5ms and I am instead sitting at 138ms. Its either that or my fine motorskill is absolutely crap tacular.
Response time and input lag are not the same thing. Response time is how fast a pixel changes from black to white or gray to gray, and there is no universal standard for measuring it. Many manufacturers inflate their numbers for marketing purposes obviously. Input lag is the delay between command input and display output, this number is not advertised by any manufacturer.
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On May 25 2014 12:42 B_Type13X2 wrote:Show nested quote +On May 25 2014 12:29 Cyro wrote:Yea, most tv's just don't take 120hz inputs, even if advertized as 120hz or 600hz / whatever. They're often inflated numbers because of interpolation or the way the display works (for the "600hz" tv's) If it does 120hz, it's probably through dual link dvi or displayport - I don't think HDMI has enough bandwidth for a 1080p120 input, at least not mainstream revisions of it TV's in general often have a lot of input lag too - on my vg248qe i'm able to consistently get around 165ms on this test i just downloaded - http://www.draebenstedt.de/reaction/reaction.html - with a best run of 155ms - default settings, aside from mouse sensitivity changed, and the "only horizontal movement" checked. If you have multiple screens, it's probably worth checking how you perform on each one, because some screens, particularly tv's, have pretty ridiculous delays compared to a native 144hz input (or even good 60hz input) 1080p computer monitor I'm getting a consistent 244ms with a best of 237ms not good all in all. my monitor didn't fair much better it claims a 5ms and I am instead sitting at 138ms. Its either that or my fine motorskill is absolutely crap tacular.
I don't see why you're comparing your reaction time as a person to the responsiveness of the monitor itself.
The program purports to test the former, not the latter.
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United Kingdom20345 Posts
^i meant for it to be used like, if one monitor is 30ms slower than the other it'll make a significant dent that's easily viewable if you run 5x test on each one and average results. I did 6 in a row and got all within +-5ms or so, if there is significant difference in the delay on multiple monitors it should show itself
Also, the amount that you are bothered by delay is probably proportional to how fast/slow you already are as a person
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On May 25 2014 15:41 Cyro wrote:
^i meant for it to be used like, if one monitor is 30ms slower than the other it'll make a significant dent that's easily viewable if you run 5x test on each one and average results. I did 6 in a row and got all within +-5ms or so, if there is significant difference in the delay on multiple monitors it should show itself
Also, the amount that you are bothered by delay is probably proportional to how fast/slow you already are as a person
my secondary display is more often then not used for watching netflix while I game on the TV, so it isn't of high importance to me. My main display I haven't really been bothered by the delay at all. It isn't or rather hasn't been detrimental to me for my purposes, I haven't felt the difference not even on system melters like the Crysis series. Then again I could be going blind I am a welder afterall...
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On May 25 2014 10:33 Cyro wrote:
280/280x is better. 280 is better value than 280x. 280/280x are very close in performance and not in the same performance tier as the 660 - they compete more than the 770, which has 8 SMX and 256 bit memory bus (as opposed to the 660 which has 5 SMX and 192 bit bus)
Cool. Thank you for the explanation.
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Does anyone have Dell E-series E2414H monitor? Thinking about getting one. Reviews ahve been mostly positive, but i want to hear more opinions. How are the colors? Is it sharp enough (one reviewer mentioned that pixels tend to bre grainy when working in word and since i'll be doing a lot of that i'm wondering if it's true)?
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