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Yeah definitely means only left in stock.
http://www.amazon.fr/gp/offer-listing/B00B0AB0MQ/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1398170945&sr=8-1&keywords=true spirit 140&condition=used
^Damn that seems cheap. I've been taking a liking for Thermalright products as of late, they seem to have very cost-efficient and good quality products compared to noctua which is expensive, high quality.
It's getting pretty hard resisting buying this stuff. I don't need any of this but they're fairly good deals. Some bloke on a flight sim forum I go to is offering a GTX 660 Ti for £100 (no shipping), 6 months old, which is a pretty good deal last I checked.
E: Ah, the True Spirit 140 BW is too big for my case anyway. That's kind of a relief.
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United Kingdom20318 Posts
On April 22 2014 21:52 Incognoto wrote:Yeah definitely means only left in stock. http://www.amazon.fr/gp/offer-listing/B00B0AB0MQ/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1398170945&sr=8-1&keywords=true spirit 140&condition=used^Damn that seems cheap. I've been taking a liking for Thermalright products as of late, they seem to have very cost-efficient and good quality products compared to noctua which is expensive, high quality. It's getting pretty hard resisting buying this stuff. I don't need any of this but they're fairly good deals. Some bloke on a flight sim forum I go to is offering a GTX 660 Ti for £100 (no shipping), 6 months old, which is a pretty good deal last I checked.
660ti is pretty good. It has one extra SMX over a 760, but some ROP's disabled, IIRC. It has a bit less stock performance in many cases, but a bit more overclocking headroom too - £100 is a pretty good price if that's true. What do you have atm? I forgot
Also guys since i don't think i posted better pics of my stuff:
+ Show Spoiler +
My front-top AF140 is flipped to intake in front of the CPU cooler. I'm not sure if that's a good idea, but i don't really want to run 3 fans at front (120mm's) that are weaker at lower RPM, and have negative pressure whenever they're not spun up. Thoughts?
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Ah I understand what you did there.
Well it's a weird set up and I think on oc.net I read that it's not a good idea to do that unless you're ducting. I take most of what I see on oc.net with a grain of salt though, I don't see why blowing cool air right in front of the CPU cooler would be a problem, even if the adjacent fan is exhaust. The way I see it, you might have some turbulence right above the CPU cooler but it should affect performance since that air isn't actively cooling the case anyway.
Only temperatures will tell though, is what I'm guessing.
E: Oh yeah I have a 7970, which outperforms it easily. See, I don't NEED a gtx660ti but a bargain is a bargain isn't it?
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On April 22 2014 22:01 Incognoto wrote:
Ah I understand what you did there.
Well it's a weird set up and I think on oc.net I read that it's not a good idea to do that unless you're ducting. I take most of what I see on oc.net with a grain of salt though, I don't see why blowing cool air right in front of the CPU cooler would be a problem, even if the adjacent fan is exhaust. The way I see it, you might have some turbulence right above the CPU cooler but it should affect performance since that air isn't actively cooling the case anyway.
Only temperatures will tell though, is what I'm guessing.
E: Oh yeah I have a 7970, which outperforms it easily. See, I don't NEED a gtx660ti but a bargain is a bargain isn't it?
Well, i don't know what you'd do with it unless you sold the 7970 for £100+ and did a straight swap for a technology like g-sync or NVENC (or just better driver performance for games that don't support mantle)
Forgot to mention the true spirit 140 that you linked is just regular, not the new power edition
To be honest, i'm gonna have a powerful rear exhaust and ~1.5 powerful front intakes feeding straight through silver arrow. The air under my GPU is not really connected, and there will probably be a tunnel of airflow from the bottom ~1.5 front intakes past/underneath the GPU and out of the pci-e slots gap which will be an uncovered hole;
I don't have a clue what to do with top fans, and they're probably not playing a major part in airflow - 280mm top is there for radiator support though, i imagine, as this little beast can do 360+280mm rad's in the case AFAIK and i guess also externally mount one through the rear-top-exhaust slot
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On April 22 2014 22:09 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On April 22 2014 22:01 Incognoto wrote:
Ah I understand what you did there.
Well it's a weird set up and I think on oc.net I read that it's not a good idea to do that unless you're ducting. I take most of what I see on oc.net with a grain of salt though, I don't see why blowing cool air right in front of the CPU cooler would be a problem, even if the adjacent fan is exhaust. The way I see it, you might have some turbulence right above the CPU cooler but it should affect performance since that air isn't actively cooling the case anyway.
Only temperatures will tell though, is what I'm guessing.
E: Oh yeah I have a 7970, which outperforms it easily. See, I don't NEED a gtx660ti but a bargain is a bargain isn't it? Well, i don't know what you'd do with it unless you sold the 7970 for £100+ and did a straight swap for a technology like g-sync or NVENC (or just better driver performance for games that don't support mantle) Forgot to mention the true spirit 140 that you linked is just regular, not the new power edition To be honest, i'm gonna have a powerful rear exhaust and ~1.5 powerful front intakes feeding straight through silver arrow. The air under my GPU is not really connected, and there will probably be a tunnel of airflow from the bottom ~1.5 front intakes past/underneath the GPU and out of the pci-e slots gap which will be an uncovered hole; I don't have a clue what to do with top fans, and they're probably not playing a major part in airflow - 280mm top is there for radiator support though, i imagine, as this little beast can do 360+280mm rad's in the case AFAIK and i guess also externally mount one through the rear-top-exhaust slot
If you try to do something strange like what's in your photo, I think you should simply give up in trying to understand what's happening and instead simply test it, then compare temperatures. Your board probably has a lot of sensors on VRM and whatnot in HWINFO, right? If you look at everything, it should paint a good picture of there being weird pockets of hot air or not.
You can feel pretty confident about understanding how something works if it's a set up like this here:
http://i.imgur.com/CppDnwd.png
Those large fans at the bottom blow air towards the top and that's it. 
A copy of that method with your case would be to fill the front with intake fans and nothing else. If those intake fans manage to do more work than the Silver Arrow's fans (pretty hard to accomplish?), and more work than the graphics card's fans, things should never heat up inside, right? I don't know what could go wrong.
I wonder how you'd best set it up if you use that PWM splitter method you probably heard of. You could tie some intake fans to your CPU cooler's PWM signal, some other intake fans to your GPU cooler's PWM signal. If you then have it set up so that the intake fans always move a bit more air than the fans on those coolers, you'd theoretically end up with something that's quiet when idle, but will never do something like slowly heat up the case over time while you're doing something. Those top fan mounts could be interesting for this so that you have more intake fans to play with the CPU PWM signal and GPU PWM signal.
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On April 22 2014 22:28 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On April 22 2014 22:09 Cyro wrote:On April 22 2014 22:01 Incognoto wrote:
Ah I understand what you did there.
Well it's a weird set up and I think on oc.net I read that it's not a good idea to do that unless you're ducting. I take most of what I see on oc.net with a grain of salt though, I don't see why blowing cool air right in front of the CPU cooler would be a problem, even if the adjacent fan is exhaust. The way I see it, you might have some turbulence right above the CPU cooler but it should affect performance since that air isn't actively cooling the case anyway.
Only temperatures will tell though, is what I'm guessing.
E: Oh yeah I have a 7970, which outperforms it easily. See, I don't NEED a gtx660ti but a bargain is a bargain isn't it? Well, i don't know what you'd do with it unless you sold the 7970 for £100+ and did a straight swap for a technology like g-sync or NVENC (or just better driver performance for games that don't support mantle) Forgot to mention the true spirit 140 that you linked is just regular, not the new power edition To be honest, i'm gonna have a powerful rear exhaust and ~1.5 powerful front intakes feeding straight through silver arrow. The air under my GPU is not really connected, and there will probably be a tunnel of airflow from the bottom ~1.5 front intakes past/underneath the GPU and out of the pci-e slots gap which will be an uncovered hole; I don't have a clue what to do with top fans, and they're probably not playing a major part in airflow - 280mm top is there for radiator support though, i imagine, as this little beast can do 360+280mm rad's in the case AFAIK and i guess also externally mount one through the rear-top-exhaust slot If you try to do something strange like what's in your photo, I think you should simply give up in trying to understand what's happening and instead simply test it, then compare temperatures. Your board probably has a lot of sensors on VRM and whatnot in HWINFO, right? If you look at everything, it should paint a good picture of there being weird pockets of hot air or not. You can feel pretty confident about understanding how something works if it's a set up like this here: http://i.imgur.com/CppDnwd.pngThose large fans at the bottom blow air towards the top and that's it. A copy of that method with your case would be to fill the front with intake fans and nothing else. If those intake fans manage to do more work than the Silver Arrow's fans (pretty hard to accomplish?), and more work than the graphics card's fans, things should never heat up inside, right? I don't know what could go wrong. I wonder how you'd best set it up if you use that PWM splitter method you probably heard of. You could tie some intake fans to your CPU cooler's PWM signal, some other intake fans to your GPU cooler's PWM signal. If you then have it set up so that the intake fans always move a bit more air than the fans on those coolers, you'd theoretically end up with something that's quiet when idle, but will never do something like slowly heat up the case over time while you're doing something. Those top fan mounts could be interesting for this so that you have more intake fans to play with the CPU PWM signal and GPU PWM signal.
Do you think that i should run both top intake, or what should i do with them? Just test like this? Like i said a few times, i worry about running three af140's 24/7 at like 1200rpm because i'd have negative pressure and i got enough dust out of silver arrow to kill someone after 8 months last time i did that :D
My rear exhaust is definitely way hotter than the rear-top exhaust under CPU load. I don't think it's being fed much, as airflow channel is strong front-to-back, even without front intakes
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Cyro, what's the case / layout / fans again?
Also think about automatic fan speed control so most fans are off or minimally active during idle.
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I drew you a picture of something that makes sense to me:
http://i.imgur.com/f87n595.png
But like I said, I feel you can't really know what's actually happening in practice. Things can backfire for no apparent reason. You might stumble upon something that works great if you simply test everything, and there might be something that's bad even though it looked like it should work well. Things can also be different with different fans.
@Myrmidon: it's that Corsair Air that's cube shaped and where the board has its own compartment that's super open.
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As long as front intakes are moving enough air relative to whatever is on the CPU cooler, I don't think the top intake makes too much sense. I guess on Air 540 the distance between top and motherboard is relatively large anyhow.
Open-air graphics card cooler too, right? Maybe some bottom intake and top-back exhaust. Other top slot open.
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On April 22 2014 23:54 Ropid wrote:I drew you a picture of something that makes sense to me: http://i.imgur.com/f87n595.pngBut like I said, I feel you can't really know what's actually happening in practice. Things can backfire for no apparent reason. You might stumble upon something that works great if you simply test everything, and there might be something that's bad even though it looked like it should work well. Things can also be different with different fans. @Myrmidon: it's that Corsair Air that's cube shaped and where the board has its own compartment that's super open.
Yea, that makes sense
On April 22 2014 23:45 Myrmidon wrote:
Cyro, what's the case / layout / fans again?
Also think about automatic fan speed control so most fans are off or minimally active during idle.
Air 540, small height and width (no drive bays etc) with 1x rear top 140mm, 2x top 140mm, 3x front 120mm
I don't think i can really use auto fan speed. PWM seems a pain to use - my average temperatures increase by as much as ~3c and peaks by 5c when using the most aggressive PWM settings, because the mobo detects CPU temperatures as lower than they actually are, and refuses to max out fans until at like 80c - and still then, they have to spin up. This also assumes that CPU is getting this hot - much of the case airflow PWM'd and relying on the CPU being hot to activate doesn't seem like a good idea.
Split using some PWM'd on CPU (maybe the fans in top half of case, but not the cpu fans themselves..) and some pwm on GPU would probably be perfect, but i'm not sure how to get several case fans PWM controlled from the GPU. It might be simplier to do something else;
A couple of those zalman fan thingies with 3-way splitters, one of them for rear exhaust+topfront intake, maybe 2 tops if i used a second one - and the other for 3x front intake. I thought of a different setup, but different fans and RPM ranges as well as probably startup voltages makes it questionable to mix/match vastly different fans
A guy from OCN said that i could power three using one, but some verification would be good
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Speedfan doesn't work on your mobo? You can always set temperatures based on lower values than you actually want (e.g. set to ramp up when the board thinks it's 50C when you really want it at 60C) if the board is underreporting.
At least figure out what the board actually supports out of each port: which do PWM and which do voltage control.
For Zalman Fan Mate 2 or fan controllers or any of those in general, check fan specs and controller specs. Three's not a magic number. It could be zero or dozens per channel usable, depending.
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On April 23 2014 01:13 Myrmidon wrote:
Speedfan doesn't work on your mobo? You can always set temperatures based on lower values than you actually want (e.g. set to ramp up when the board thinks it's 50C when you really want it at 60C) if the board is underreporting.
At least figure out what the board actually supports out of each port: which do PWM and which do voltage control.
For Zalman Fan Mate 2 or fan controllers or any of those in general, check fan specs and controller specs. Three's not a magic number. It could be zero or dozens per channel usable, depending.
It might do, i'l check. Thanks
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Hey guys, I have a few questions I was hoping someone could help me out with before I begin my new build (as in actually putting it together).
1) I have canned air but was wondering if its okay to use a damp paper towel to clean off dust on my old CD/DVD drive and my old Hard Drive? I want to put them both into my new computer build but I don't want them bringing in any dust with them.
2) I have no static free bags but was curious if brown paper bags would an okay substitute to store my old GPU and RAM in for now? Of course I would put them in separate bags as well.
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1) Can't you just brush them or rub them without any water involved? A slightly damp towel probably won't do anything bad, but please let things dry well.
2) I've heard that paper bags are what the MSI brand's support department tells you to use if you RMA a graphics card with them but lost the original box and that bag the card came in. I wonder if that's just some placebo idea or if paper can actually do something real with regards to static charge.
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On April 23 2014 04:05 Ropid wrote:1) Can't you just brush them or rub them without any water involved? A slightly damp towel probably won't do anything bad, but please let things dry well. 2) I've heard that paper bags are what the MSI brand's support department tells you to use if you RMA a graphics card with them but lost the original box and that bag the card came in. I wonder if that's just some placebo idea or if paper can actually do something real with regards to static charge.
Hmm what do people brush this kind of stuff with? Would a tooth brush work or the bristles too hard?
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You people are soo paranoid. I've had my computer torn apart (with no anti-static snake oil) more times that I would like to admit and guess what, it all still works. AHH THE SKY IS FALLING!!! You really think that component manufacturers are manically laughing and saying "good thing the crux of our components is static electricity MUHAHAHAHA! the poor fools we're really raking in the money now!"
The only time you have to worry about static is if you happen to be building your computer inches away from a electrostatic generator.
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Working in a Faraday cage is probably overkill, but at least you can avoid putting parts on carpet while wearing wooly socks.
Paper seems to be a good enough insulator; its very useful to test components using the boxes they came in as support :v
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On April 23 2014 04:35 LimeNade wrote:Show nested quote +On April 23 2014 04:05 Ropid wrote:1) Can't you just brush them or rub them without any water involved? A slightly damp towel probably won't do anything bad, but please let things dry well. 2) I've heard that paper bags are what the MSI brand's support department tells you to use if you RMA a graphics card with them but lost the original box and that bag the card came in. I wonder if that's just some placebo idea or if paper can actually do something real with regards to static charge. Hmm what do people brush this kind of stuff with? Would a tooth brush work or the bristles too hard?
I just use some random brush like this (no idea if that's stupid for static):
+ Show Spoiler +
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United Kingdom20318 Posts
The only time you have to worry about static is if you happen to be building your computer inches away from a electrostatic generator.
Well, i've seen people doing things like resting bare CPU's (out of case etc) on carpet, ihs-up
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On April 23 2014 04:53 iTzSnypah wrote:
You people are soo paranoid. I've had my computer torn apart (with no anti-static snake oil) more times that I would like to admit and guess what, it all still works. AHH THE SKY IS FALLING!!! You really think that component manufacturers are manically laughing and saying "good thing the crux of our components is static electricity MUHAHAHAHA! the poor fools we're really raking in the money now!"
The only time you have to worry about static is if you happen to be building your computer inches away from a electrostatic generator.
I agree with you I am a bit paranoid. I've gone over my budget with my build so I can't afford to screw up anything even with new and old computer parts (that maybe still good) since this is my first build. Also since I trust the opinion of everyone who has helped me out so far in this thread I would rather ask/be paranoid than to be afraid of asking and screw something up.
However, I thank you as well for your advice/opinion as anything I can learn is knowledge that I will have for the future.
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/Yycf37Z.jpg)
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