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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
will this work + i need cpu cooler. you spoke about clc but i dont know.. what are the benefits to air? is it more work? dust? noise? if its good plz recommend one to this build thx edit: seems my build is pretty much exactly what op has made i went ahead and added Noctua NH-U14S. any comments on this or could i just order away asap? | ||
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On December 25 2013 14:19 IMKR wrote: How do i make a desktop PC have wireless so i can connect to the internet with wifi? If your motherboard does not have wifi (not standard) then you need a wifi card Basically a small card that sits in a graphics card slot (pcie) that gives wifi. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
By the looks of things, my gpu is inhibiting me a bit when I get into high res textures. A few modded console ports like skyrim and i think gta4 are extremely hungry for VRAM (heard people complaining that 3gb isn't enough) but there's no game right now that will heavily limit you at 1080p with 2gb VRAM on a single card; 3/4gb is good for future but it's hard to justify buying on a 770 unless you have niche use like highly modded skyrim or maybe SLI but you don't want a 290/780 | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On December 25 2013 21:11 KapsyL wrote: http://www.inet.se/kundvagn/visa/4393444/2013-12-25 will this work + i need cpu cooler. you spoke about clc but i dont know.. what are the benefits to air? is it more work? dust? noise? if its good plz recommend one to this build thx edit: seems my build is pretty much exactly what op has made i went ahead and added Noctua NH-U14S. any comments on this or could i just order away asap? Air is quieter and cheaper, if you have something like a 240mm/280mm CLC mounted as intake with 2-4 good fans on it you can pull away notably in performance; short of that (with just like stock fans mounted as top exhaust) they're nothing special for performance and quite noisy, and the single-fan width (120/140mm) rads are bad performance, price and noise-wise, but somewhat usable for small cases etc Air is somewhat more reliant on case temperatures than a clc mounted as intake too (as that would take outside air, while a heatsink in the case has to work from case temperature air) so if you have a lot of gpu power (sli 770/280x, volted 780/290) or low airflow it will be inhibited more You have to clean dust from both (both use fans; just air uses fans on a heatsink and clc's use fans on a radiator that's full of liquid and pumped around to transfer heat) and it's not a major concern IMO (as long as you get it every ~6-12 months) Your PSU stands out, it's an 850w rated 80+ bronze PSU but your average power draw under a game that highly loads CPU and GPU will be in the leagues of like 350w (maybe a bit more) unless you bios mod the 780; you should target a ~500-550w unit with free choice if you want to sit good on efficiency curve, but could do fine with a good quality 450 | ||
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Rollin
Australia1552 Posts
On December 25 2013 21:11 KapsyL wrote: http://www.inet.se/kundvagn/visa/4393444/2013-12-25 will this work + i need cpu cooler. you spoke about clc but i dont know.. what are the benefits to air? is it more work? dust? noise? if its good plz recommend one to this build thx edit: seems my build is pretty much exactly what op has made i went ahead and added Noctua NH-U14S. any comments on this or could i just order away asap? I assume you're overclocking, if not you're wasting a lot of money. I assume you're using the computer for professional purposes other than gaming, otherwise you're wasting a lot of money on the RAM and 4770k. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
however im a lazy person and im thinking about getting inets own building thing for 50 euro or whatever it is. they have some requirements though. i meet all of them except the cpu cooler cant be heavier then 650g and only 1600mhz RAM for whatever reason. edit: after rereading your ram post i think ill downgrade to 2x4 1600mhz also since apparantly higher mhz is considered overclcok and gives more trouble which is bad for someone so nuuby like me.but now i need a less heavy cpu cooler. since its been brought up before, does clc coolers weigh less? if so that might be a option oh and yes im overclocking :D | ||
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
updated list. new cpu cooler which weighs less then 650 and 1600mhz ram. i have never seen this ram on inet before, is it quality and just diffrent color or wut added some arctic silver cos im out  is this thermalright macho 120 any good btw? lol | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On December 26 2013 00:47 KapsyL wrote: http://www.inet.se/kundvagn/visa/4395492/2013-12-25 updated list. new cpu cooler which weighs less then 650 and 1600mhz ram. i have never seen this ram on inet before, is it quality and just diffrent color or wut added some arctic silver cos im out is this thermalright macho 120 any good btw? lol It's not at the top but it is so good and so close that it won't ever make sense to upgrade to the top air cooler. I feel it's a weird choice for your build. You are throwing around a bunch of money and should probably buy CLC for this PC if you don't want the strongest air coolers. I'm thinking expensive cooler and cheaper i5 CPU would beat expensive i7 CPU and cheaper cooler, and that's what makes it feel weird to me. About your question of weight of a CLC cooler... overall they are heavy, but the radiator is getting screwed into the case, not the board. So if you look at the weight on the board's CPU socket, they are lighter than a large air cooler. That's what should make it possible to choose them for that 50 € deal you mentioned your shop has for assembling a PC. Look at the CLC coolers where you see two fans side-by-side on the picture and think about if you would like one of those. Examples are CM Seidon 240M, Corsair H110. The CLCs where the radiator is only a single square are not really that much better than an air cooler like NH-U14S, not good enough for their price I feel. Arctic Silver 5 is super old and not a good choice anymore! Check out new stuff like Arctic MX-4 or something, no burn in time like AS5. All brands sell something good so if you buy an expensive cooler, the paste will be alright, better than AS5. Noctua NT-H1 is great for example, Thermalright Chill Factor 3 is great, etc. | ||
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
also they only have these https://www.inet.se/kategori/144/kylpasta | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On December 26 2013 01:42 Incognoto wrote: Anyone have a good program for migrating shit from an HDD to an SSD? (Santa was really nice to me this year) I bet "MiniTool Partition Wizard" can do it. It can copy partitions (and shrink and stuff). I'd disconnect the HDD afterwards, and if the SSD does not want to boot, it can probably be fixed by using the Windows installation disc and searching online about what to do to fix boot sector and boot loader and stuff. MiniTool Partition Wizard has an "Align" option in its menus for aligning partitions on an SSD, so it hopefully knows what it's doing regarding things that are special about an SSD. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On December 26 2013 01:49 KapsyL wrote: what do you mean if i buy a expensive cooler the paste will be alright? also they only have these https://www.inet.se/kategori/144/kylpasta For example, if you buy a Noctua cooler, you get a syringe of Noctua NT-H1 paste. It's good paste, so you don't have to buy anything separately. If you buy a Thermalright cooler, you get Thermalright Chill Factor, also good paste. I assume it works like that for most brands. Some are a bit weird, for example Corsair seems to pre-apply a layer of paste on the cooler itself (it's good paste), so if there's mistakes when installing the cooler and you have to redo it, you'll probably still need to buy separate thermal paste like you want to do currently. I would choose Arctic MX-4 from that list. It's better than Arctic Silver 5 in tests. Arctic promises you won't need to reapply it for several years (no idea if that's true). The old Arctic Silver 5 would need a bunch of days before it worked best, and that's also fixed with MX-4. | ||
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IMKR
United States378 Posts
when I watched other peoples guides, they make a partition and then choose which one to put the OS in. what does this do? also, is it important? i didnt do this step | ||
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On December 26 2013 02:10 IMKR wrote: i just finished my bros build and installed the OS. when I watched other peoples guides, they make a partition and then choose which one to put the OS in. what does this do? also, is it important? i didnt do this step You did everything right. There's a bunch of weird, small partitions that Windows and the BIOS want to have nowadays, and the installation disc can't create those without empty drive. If you want to have additional partitions beside C:, you can just shrink C: afterwards in Windows' Disk Management or other partitions management programs. | ||
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KapsyL
Sweden704 Posts
http://www.inet.se/kundvagn/visa/4396075/2013-12-25 thanks for all the help with this i should be able to SLI, overclock and get to play games like bf4? ill probably be back to bother you guys a bit more later on since i dont plan on ordering until 2014xd | ||
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