EPTMechanical Keyboard Guide - Page 329
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Dyscreet
United States10 Posts
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ETisME
12740 Posts
On November 14 2013 02:21 Bisu-Fan wrote: So I'm planning on buying a mechanical keyboard... I have a few questions~ 1) Should I wait for Black Friday to get my keyboard 2) Ducky Shine 3 or Leopold TKL keyboard? 3) Does anyone know how long the Ducky LEDs last? 4) Blues or Browns? I want tactile feedback, but I'm afraid to be too loud... my ducky 2 LED is still working after 2 years :D | ||
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blazekun
8 Posts
I've had the Das Keyboard for a very long time, since back then when it was the hot shit. What would I get out of an upgrade and would you consider it worth? | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20338 Posts
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DERPDERP
Kyrgyzstan189 Posts
On November 17 2013 07:04 Cyro wrote: Is worth it when you get something that you want from upgrading. A keyboard is a keyboard and if you've got something nice like a das then i don't see much benefit from a new board unless you wanted one for the sake of a new switch type or some feature This, and testing new switch types or layouts is a slippery slope into spending thousands of dollar$ into keyboards. Next thing you're buying vintage kboards you can't even use. | ||
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crappen
Norway1546 Posts
On November 12 2013 06:03 TwilightRain wrote: The only one which is somewhat easy to find is Cherry MX-board 3.0: http://www.cherry.de/cid/keyboards_CHERRY_MX-Board_30.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=en&WT.mc_id=# There are some older flat cherry boards with Cherry ML switches, but those are harder to find. Thanks! My shop in Norway, has these keyboards from Cherry http://www.maxfps.no/tastatur#aj=174 Im not quite sure whats different from these picks that the shop provide: Cherry - Initial - Stream-XT - Easyhub - Strait It says that Cherry-initial has LPK-switches. Not sure what it really means. Not sure what Cherry ML switches are and compare to LPK. Then we have Stream-XT, which has SX-switches. Again this does not tell me much, I have no experience. I didn't really find anything on the Straith(JK-0300) keyboard on what switches it used. Any input on these keyboards? | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
Those keyboards you linked are all alright quality, normal keyboards, but they are not mechanical. Some of them should have some sort of scissor switch to get the keys to work more reliable, but I don't know how to find that out. You might want to Google Image Search "scissor switch" to see what that's about. It's the technology used for good laptop keyboards. Basically, you pretty much can forget about mechanical if you want something flat like a laptop keyboard. You have to research about good, normal keyboards instead. | ||
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badugib
United States80 Posts
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Bisu-Fan
Russian Federation3339 Posts
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DERPDERP
Kyrgyzstan189 Posts
On November 21 2013 06:04 Bisu-Fan wrote: Is there any real difference between the ducky shine 2 and 3? It's not like you could compare the specs somehow | ||
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Firkraag8
Sweden1006 Posts
On November 21 2013 06:04 Bisu-Fan wrote: Is there any real difference between the ducky shine 2 and 3? Some key repeater options and additional lightning schemes but that's about it I think. | ||
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Sovano
United States1503 Posts
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
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Disregard
China10252 Posts
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WeddingEpisode
United States356 Posts
I don't mean larger keys, but proportionally larger layouts: wider entire frame, more space between keys, and taller, etc... | ||
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Ethelis
United States2400 Posts
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Ichabod
United States1659 Posts
On November 23 2013 07:47 Ethelis wrote: What switch should i look for if i don't mind the force needed to press down on old school membrane keyboards but hate the bottom out feeling. I tried Blues and i didn't like them at all, the midway actuation point drove me crazy. All cherry switches actuate mid-way during the press of the key (prior to bottoming out) after about 2 mm of travel of the total 4 mm. (See Overclock.net's guide for specifics on each switch type) Some companies sell little rubber spacers (gaskets) you can put on the stems of your switches to give a different travel distance and bottom-out feeling. WASD Keyboards has a sampler kit if you want a feel for the popular switches and the spacers they sell. (and the keycaps that come with the sampler can be used on your new board for uniqueness) | ||
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Ethelis
United States2400 Posts
On November 23 2013 08:49 Ichabod wrote: All cherry switches actuate mid-way during the press of the key (prior to bottoming out) after about 2 mm of travel of the total 4 mm. (See Overclock.net's guide for specifics on each switch type) Some companies sell little rubber spacers (gaskets) you can put on the stems of your switches to give a different travel distance and bottom-out feeling. WASD Keyboards has a sampler kit if you want a feel for the popular switches and the spacers they sell. (and the keycaps that come with the sampler can be used on your new board for uniqueness) What's similar in terms of force? i'd like it a little lighter but idk i just hated blues. | ||
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Firkraag8
Sweden1006 Posts
On November 23 2013 09:30 Ethelis wrote: What's similar in terms of force? i'd like it a little lighter but idk i just hated blues. The reds are lighter and very unlike blues, I'd give those a try. | ||
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DusTerr
2520 Posts
On November 19 2013 11:03 badugib wrote: you can try o-rings for less travel to mimic laptop scissor switches. I need to try that! | ||
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