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Cyro
United Kingdom20313 Posts
This is based on utter and complete misinformation. pCARS does NOT use GPU PhysX on Nvidia cards at all. It's all CPU PhysX for everyone. The reason AMD gets a boost on win10 is because their win7/8 DX11 CPU overhead is absolutely terrible compared to Nvidia's. | ||
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zerge
Germany162 Posts
i'm thinking about buying an external monitor for my laptop to play starcraft 2 on. However i'm worried about performance since most of the monitors have a native resolution of 1920x1080 pixels or more. At the moment i have a resolution of 1366x768 pixels and have set everything in the graphic setting to low. Any way to tell wether my laptop can handle the extra work? I'm using a hp pavillion g6-2009sg: Intel Core i5-3210M - 2.5 GHz AMD Radeon HD 7670M - 2 GB GDDR3 SDRAM 6 GB DDR3 SDRAM Also beeing able to watch movies on it would be nice but its not that important. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20313 Posts
IF you're GPU bound, 1920x1080 should be about twice as demanding as 1366x768. Sc2 becomes more and more CPU bound with more units though, so even weaker cards can run higher resolutions with the same FPS as stronger ones due to CPU limits dropping FPS in battles I don't know that GPU hardware very well though | ||
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
I would also like to know if it's possible to just replace the fan instead of having to buy a whole new PSU. I did build a couple of computers by myself but I have never touch the inside of a PSU and I wonder if I should try. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On May 19 2015 15:08 DPK wrote: Need some quick help, my PSU fan just broke because I'm an idiot. I would like to know, is it really risky to let my PC run without the fan? What kind of damage could happen? So far the PSU doesn't seem to be hot but I can't monitor the temperature with HWMonitor. I also guess that playing games without a PSU fan is a big no no? I really don't have a clue and I don't wanna risk frying my whole computer. I would also like to know if it's possible to just replace the fan instead of having to buy a whole new PSU. I did build a couple of computers by myself but I have never touch the inside of a PSU and I wonder if I should try. Which model do you have? What parts are you running in the computer? Heat is the number one enemy of electronics, and running power electronics intended for use with active cooling without it is asking for big trouble. Overheating parts can lead to explosions and/or hastened decay and maybe eventual degradation of output power quality, stressing the rest of the computer and causing some of those to die faster. Then again, many power supply models do have a temperature sensor or two; in the best case, you'd hope they shut down before conditions were too adverse, though if that happens while you're playing a game perhaps you might not be too pleased. But some models are overbuilt enough that with a light enough load they'll probably be fine. If you have to ask, my inclination is to say not to bother trying to open the thing up. Do you have experience soldering or splicing wires, looking and working with PCBs? A fan swap is relatively simple, and a power supply let to discharge shouldn't be dangerous (a model without bleeder resistors may store and retain a significant charge after being powered down and disconnected for a bit, enough to zap/kill you in the very worst case), but it might not be worth it. If you want, you could probably just strap a fan to the outside of the power supply and have it blow in (or pull out, depending on positioning). As long as you effectively get comparable airfflow, it's probably okay. (note that in this case, you'd probably want to keep the actual internal fan from spinning, somehow, just in case—the original fan motor being a potential unintentional generator, which you wouldn't want) | ||
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9450, EVGA Motherboard 132-CK-NF78-A1, OCZ 4GB DDR2, GTX 550Ti and my case is Antec nine hundred. I don't have any experience with soldering, splicing wires and looking/working with PCBs but I have a friend who do and could probably help me with replacing the fan. I did heard a thing or 2 about letting a PSU discharge but I'm not even sure how it's properly done. Yeah I thought about that but I don't have any spare fans right now and I'm not even sure how I could strap one on yet. You said that in that case, I should try to keep the actual internal fan from spinning, can I just open up the thing and deplug the fan safely? Or I need to make sure to discharge the PSU beforehand? Also, if I do somehow strap another fan on it, how to figure if the airflow is as effective as it was before? Finally, If I end up buying a new PSU, what wattage should I go for? My PSU was bought without much knowledge and because I wanted to try SLi so I clearly doesn't need another 700w PSU. What would you recommend? Something as cheap as possible, don't want to spend too much money on this old PC. Thanks a lot for the help btw. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20313 Posts
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
On May 20 2015 04:20 Cyro wrote: That PSU is actually only specced for 432w of 12v (which is used these days for most components that use a notable amount of power, including the CPU and graphics cards) split across 2 rails as well (which can be awkward as you can overlord one rail while drawing less power than the PSU could technically handle) ~ shouldn't be that hard to beat. It was probably pretty good 9 years ago when it was released ;p So I guess you recommend to change PSU? If so, which cheap one would you recommend for my rig? I guess I don't need anything higher than 400w? I don't have the money right now to change PSU and if I could just change the fan for now I'll be happy. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
The power supply model is not built to a very high standard and should be seriously considered for replacement after a service life this long, but if you say you can't afford to replace it now, then a fan replacement should be okay for now. Just find a model rated for something like 2000-2500 rpm (with a low enough startup voltage, which is unlikely to be a problem but does mean you're kind of flying blind as this is rarely specified and nobody knows what minimum voltage the GameXstream is actually outputting anyway). The original fan is rated for 2400 rpm but of course runs lower than that most of the time. A reasonable replacement would start in the $40-50 range, something like this: http://www.ncix.com/detail/evga-430w-80-plus-certified-18-92642-1028.htm That's again shooting for the low side of quality but not fishing in the flaming-pile-of-junk bin. | ||
micronesia
United States24701 Posts
I see Newegg has some specials right now like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150705&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL051915&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL051915&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL051915-_-EMC-051915-Index-_-DesktopGraphicsCards-_-14150705-S1A3B ...but I am not following GPUs. | ||
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
On May 20 2015 09:08 Myrmidon wrote: Well, the GameXstream uses a standard 120x120x25 mm fan, but usually the connector used is smaller than the standard one used in motherboards and case/cooler fans for the DIY market. In other words, a fan you'd get would physically fit, but the wiring would make it not a drop-in replacement without splicing on the old connector or wires. The power supply model is not built to a very high standard and should be seriously considered for replacement after a service life this long, but if you say you can't afford to replace it now, then a fan replacement should be okay for now. Just find a model rated for something like 2000-2500 rpm (with a low enough startup voltage, which is unlikely to be a problem but does mean you're kind of flying blind as this is rarely specified and nobody knows what minimum voltage the GameXstream is actually outputting anyway). The original fan is rated for 2400 rpm but of course runs lower than that most of the time. A reasonable replacement would start in the $40-50 range, something like this: http://www.ncix.com/detail/evga-430w-80-plus-certified-18-92642-1028.htm That's again shooting for the low side of quality but not fishing in the flaming-pile-of-junk bin. Thanks a bunch, lots of useful infos, I really appreciate it. But I have another dilemma. Right now, I'm searching for a new fan in stores near me and most 120mm fans are about 10$+ but I found a random store that sells a bit of everything and they are selling a 550w power supply for like 20$. I don't know the brand yet but I will probably call them for more infos. Do you think it could be a good idea to just replace the whole power supply for twice the price of a fan? It's probably a shitty PSU since it's only 20$ but it's most likely brand new and I feel it would be a better idea to just replace it. What's the worst could happen with a 20$ PSU? I mean, most branded PC are using shitty PSU too and they pretty much all work well with it, so I shouldn't be worry I guess? Bear in mind that my PC is at least 7 years old and I'm not really sure I'd be willing to replace the PSU with a 50$ one even if I had the money. It just feel like a waste to me. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20313 Posts
What's the worst could happen with a 20$ PSU? Almost everything in your PC being ruined and a house fire. You really had to ask that question  ------------- I'm wondering what steps to take for diagnosing extremely high ping to a router (only sometimes, not always but fairly regularly) that i'm plugged into via ethernet. Done some googling but a lot of the results seem to be people discussing interference (which shouldn't apply to direct wired connection?) I'm kinda a network newbie~ + Show Spoiler + + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/3h8d93M.png) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/kSoCVoc.png) ^here in the second pic you see how it is miraculously fixed after restarting router (big red block at the bottom). The ping drops back to ~19 (which is so low on the ~0-1500 on the chart, you can't even see it) It does that all of the time, but the problem comes back a while after restarting - maybe after 10 seconds, maybe after 5 hours but i'm restarting it like 20 times a day, and it's very annoying when half of those 20 times come in the middle of raid time or when wanting to play something like sc2. I think it's a router issue and not ISP issue because it came up when switching router, seems fine after restarting it etc - but this is supposed to be a pretty good router and its range far exceeds the last cheap one Also, it says ~500 ping often with ~10-20% packet loss, but feels way worse than that. A 5MB file transfer will suddenly start taking ~30-60 seconds instead of 2 seconds, browsing and gameplay comes to a halt etc. If i had to guess, there are approx periods of time where there is no response at all to an input for 5+ seconds, when my ping is ~30 during times of good connectivity. There's no grey area here, it's either working amazingly or functionally useless edit: If this was power saving setting in the network driver i will be mad | ||
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
On May 21 2015 07:52 Cyro wrote: Almost everything in your PC being ruined and a house fire. You really had to ask that question To be fair, I fail to understand why and how. I had multiple PC with cheap PSU that run for years and that never happen once, never had a single PSU problem either. I've also never heard that something like that ever happen to someone. Like I said, most branded PC are using cheap PSU and they work perfectly for years. Why would it be any different in my PC? I just don't really understand how could a cheap PSU arm my computer. Aren't they built so that it doesn't happen? I should've probably start a whole new thread, sorry. | ||
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Craton
United States17253 Posts
It's not that you're particularly likely for it to go catastrophic, but it's still much more likely than would be the case on a better PSU (still, a small chance overall). Fires are pretty far on the extreme of things. Components being damaged or failing is a more likely scenario. | ||
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felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
On May 21 2015 07:52 Cyro wrote: Almost everything in your PC being ruined and a house fire. You really had to ask that question ------------- I'm wondering what steps to take for diagnosing extremely high ping to a router (only sometimes, not always but fairly regularly) that i'm plugged into via ethernet. Done some googling but a lot of the results seem to be people discussing interference (which shouldn't apply to direct wired connection?) I'm kinda a network newbie~ + Show Spoiler + + Show Spoiler + ^here in the second pic you see how it is miraculously fixed after restarting router (big red block at the bottom). The ping drops back to ~19 (which is so low on the ~0-1500 on the chart, you can't even see it) It does that all of the time, but the problem comes back a while after restarting - maybe after 10 seconds, maybe after 5 hours but i'm restarting it like 20 times a day, and it's very annoying when half of those 20 times come in the middle of raid time or when wanting to play something like sc2. I think it's a router issue and not ISP issue because it came up when switching router, seems fine after restarting it etc - but this is supposed to be a pretty good router and its range far exceeds the last cheap one Also, it says ~500 ping often with ~10-20% packet loss, but feels way worse than that. A 5MB file transfer will suddenly start taking ~30-60 seconds instead of 2 seconds, browsing and gameplay comes to a halt etc. If i had to guess, there are approx periods of time where there is no response at all to an input for 5+ seconds, when my ping is ~30 during times of good connectivity. There's no grey area here, it's either working amazingly or functionally useless edit: If this was power saving setting in the network driver i will be mad Step 1: Look to see if there are updated drivers for the NIC. Step 2: Use a different wire for the connection. Step 3: Use a different port on the router. Step 4: Check to see if there's a firmware update for your router. Step 5: Factory reset the router. Step 6: Take the router and a gun out into your back yard and put it out of its misery... What kind of router is it? And how exactly is your connection wired? (direct to router, through wall jack with wiring in the walls) Any neighbors recently take up amateur radio? (Yes, radio can screw with wired connections. My first three years of college, I lived underneath the radio antenna and transmitter for the school's station. Even with heavy shielding across the roof, my (unpowered, disconnected) speakers were putting out the soft jazz the station played.) | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20313 Posts
Like I said, most branded PC are using cheap PSU and they work perfectly for years. Cheap PSU's are actually one of the biggest points of failure for OEM PC's, and one of the best parts of custom building is being able to choose good, reliable PSU and mobo and a case that's good for what you want (with appropriate airflow etc). OEM's don't care enough about those two components, if it dies 1 day outside of warranty period it's your problem. Step 1: Look to see if there are updated drivers for the NIC. Done and i turned a power saving setting off. It might have been that. TBH i never actually did proper testing from another system (though they're all on wireless aside from me) mainly because everyone likes to keep their own shit, but i should have done that a long time ago. I didn't actually notice it was the ping to the router that was bad until today, so i was unsure if it was an ISP problem. Step 2: Use a different wire for the connection. Step 3: Use a different port on the router. can try these if problem pops up again Step 4: Check to see if there's a firmware update for your router. I checked earlier, but in the update notes there was only 2 bug fixes and it seemed nothing relevant. Maybe worth downloading anyway It's a netgear nighthawk r7000 (i didn't buy it but it seems at least good from quick checks on google) and just a shortish ethernet cable because it's 6 feet away from my PC Nothing radio here as far as i know~ Thanks, i'l see if it actually happens again since i did network driver update and intel power saving setting off on the network device config (accessed through device manager) ~ i actually kinda forgot about that being a thing. Had OS for 2 years and still finding stuff like that messing with day to day activities in the name of saving 1 watt of power. edit: Nop, so it's not network driver or network power saving setting + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/I3aMzgN.png) i'l run through different stuff on the list and google some more | ||
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felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
Something else to consider is power supply for the router, and if it's overheating. Although that really should affect everyone. Oh, and you can always perform the hard factory reset and see if that helps. Google also tells me it will run DD-WRT. | ||
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Mindcrime
United States6899 Posts
On May 21 2015 09:05 DPK wrote: To be fair, I fail to understand why and how. I had multiple PC with cheap PSU that run for years and that never happen once, never had a single PSU problem either. I've also never heard that something like that ever happen to someone. Like I said, most branded PC are using cheap PSU and they work perfectly for years. Why would it be any different in my PC? I just don't really understand how could a cheap PSU arm my computer. Aren't they built so that it doesn't happen? I should've probably start a whole new thread, sorry. I just saw this and thought it relevant:  Also, my parents once had a psu that started to sound like a lawnmower and it pretty quickly took the mobo and gpu down with it. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
On May 22 2015 10:50 Myrmidon wrote: If by "branded" you mean someone like Dell, HP, Lenovo, Asus, etc., for low-end home desktop computers they're using relatively cheap but decent enough power supplies, definitely better than the ~$20 junk you can find at retail. High-end workstations are running overspec'd 80 plus platinum models from the top manufacturers. Ok wow I didn't knew that. Every branded PC I've opened always seemed to had pretty crappy PSU. Guess they are better than they look lol. Ok well, I want to thank everyone for helping me out and feeding me some information/experience on the subject. I've learn a lot in the last couple of days and I guess the best decision for now would be to replace the fan until I have enough money to buy a decent new PSU. Now time to search how to properly discharge my PSU and I should be good. Again, thanks guys! Really appreciated. | ||
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