the first part there is harder and more hazardous to manage but it's the most efficient.
still, why would you want to discharge it in the first place?.
Forum Index > Tech Support |
xM(Z
Romania5281 Posts
May 22 2015 09:24 GMT
#10801
the first part there is harder and more hazardous to manage but it's the most efficient. still, why would you want to discharge it in the first place?. | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20315 Posts
May 22 2015 11:40 GMT
#10802
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xM(Z
Romania5281 Posts
May 22 2015 12:32 GMT
#10803
![]() in theory, those big Caps discharge over time through a couple resistors. worse case scenario - if you plug in a charged PSU you'll sometime get a soft restart on the source itself, on start up, even before it gets to bios and that's it. also, you can't electrocute yourself even if the PSU is charged (but sealed ofc) | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20315 Posts
May 22 2015 12:53 GMT
#10804
also, you can't electrocute yourself even if the PSU is charged (but sealed ofc) never underestimate the ability of somebody to do something wrong and kill themselves ![]() | ||
felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
May 22 2015 13:31 GMT
#10805
On May 22 2015 21:53 Cyro wrote: never underestimate the ability of somebody to do something wrong and kill themselves ![]() ... shorting across capacitors is never fully safe. I say this based on watching my high school electronics teacher cause a screwdriver to disappear (as in vaporize) by applying it across the terminals of a 400 mF capacitor. Of course, that was also when such a capacitor was roughly the size of a 12V flashlight battery. I understand they've gotten much smaller. In any case, much like mopping the floor, you want to put up a few "caution" signs just to reinforce that electricity can kill you. Probably won't 9 times out of 10. But safety first and all that. | ||
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DPK
Canada487 Posts
May 22 2015 17:51 GMT
#10806
On May 22 2015 18:24 xM(Z wrote: to discharge a PSU you short-circuit its primary capacitors(the 2 to 4 huge ones (usually)near the power fuse; needs an opened PSU)) or start it with a load on the 12v rail then unplug it while running. the first part there is harder and more hazardous to manage but it's the most efficient. still, why would you want to discharge it in the first place?. I wanna change my PSU fan and I've read that it's safer to discharge the PSU before opening it. Am I wrong again? | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20315 Posts
May 22 2015 18:38 GMT
#10807
-- @felis/etc~ connection started derping again and i tested more. The problem isn't specific to any LAN cable or port, but it seems the ONLY problem is PC to router connection over ethernet (all PC's, all ports). Two laptops across the house pinging 1-2ms to router and doing everything fine online but both PC's with direct wired connection to it getting horrible and inconsistent ping to router and everything requiring that connection grinding to a halt or disconnecting. I disabled and re-enabled the intel LAN on my PC and it did nothing, problem once again fixed everywhere just by restarting router. I'l have to google more (and/or maybe talk to Netgear? I'm not sure if there's really a help line for this stuff, and my ISP provides their own routers with poor range & features and expects everybody to use them) but if this helps narrow down the problem, more help is good :D In ~1.5 weeks i went from "shit's broke somewhere" to "problems connecting to router via LAN connections until restarted router, not PC/cable/port specific, wireless and internet work flawlessly" Maybe i should have made a new thread, this is anything but a simple problem ![]() | ||
![]()
DPK
Canada487 Posts
May 22 2015 20:01 GMT
#10808
On May 23 2015 03:38 Cyro wrote: No, but opening the PSU itself is one of if not the most dangerous thing you can do with a PC and not recommended to most users. Usually there's very little risk if you know what you're doing with PC parts - and that risk is pretty much to the hardware only, but with something like a PSU (including PSU's contained within monitors, especially CRT's) the risk is greater and extends being much more likely to harm you and not just the hardware, especially if you're not qualified to be messing with it. I would give the advice to anyone to just buy a quality PSU with a good warranty - if it has a problem in warranty, send it back~ if out of warranty, just replace it, because it'll be like 5 years old anyway. Normally I would've just buy a new quality PSU like you said but money is an issue right now and since you guys told me that buying a cheap PSU is a bad idea, my last option is open up the thing and replace the fan. I have a friend that knows this stuff a lot better than I do and he will most likely help me with it, that is, If I can finally contact him. | ||
xM(Z
Romania5281 Posts
May 22 2015 20:22 GMT
#10809
On May 23 2015 02:51 DPK wrote: Show nested quote + On May 22 2015 18:24 xM(Z wrote: to discharge a PSU you short-circuit its primary capacitors(the 2 to 4 huge ones (usually)near the power fuse; needs an opened PSU)) or start it with a load on the 12v rail then unplug it while running. the first part there is harder and more hazardous to manage but it's the most efficient. still, why would you want to discharge it in the first place?. I wanna change my PSU fan and I've read that it's safer to discharge the PSU before opening it. Am I wrong again? depends: -if you can change the fan only by opening the metallic lid, there's no need to discharge it. -if you need to unscrew the PCB inside, to get to the fan, then you have to discharge it. mostly it depends on the ease with which the fan can be replaced. if it has a plug and you can just unplug the old one then plug in the new fan, then that's just ezpz for you but if the fan wires are soldered on to the PCB, i recommend you just cut the wires clean, then use some electrical/insulation tape to connect the new one. how to jump start your PSU + Show Spoiler + ![]() to discharge it: - the black wires are always the ground - the yellow ones are of +12v - the red ones are of +5V - the orange ones are of +3.3V those are your main power lines (there is a rail for -5V, another one for -12V and in rare cases one for ~1.8V but those are not your concern). to discharge it, add a load (a 12v to 24v lightbulb/halogen lamp/power LED - mind the polarity there) to the +12V rail (between a black wire and a yellow wire from your PSU. i don't recommend a discharge. just cut the wires, deisolate? them, spin them together, insulate them, mind their coloring(it matters), mind the spin of the fan(you need to know if the old fan was pushing air in or sucking the air out) and GG. Note: always work with the PSU unplugged from the wall. | ||
felisconcolori
United States6168 Posts
May 22 2015 20:28 GMT
#10810
On May 23 2015 03:38 Cyro wrote: No, but opening the PSU itself is one of if not the most dangerous thing you can do with a PC and not recommended to most users. Usually there's very little risk if you know what you're doing with PC parts - and that risk is pretty much to the hardware only, but with something like a PSU (including PSU's contained within monitors, especially CRT's) the risk is greater and extends being much more likely to harm you and not just the hardware, especially if you're not qualified to be messing with it. I would give the advice to anyone to just buy a quality PSU with a good warranty - if it has a problem in warranty, send it back~ if out of warranty, just replace it, because it'll be like 5 years old anyway. -- @felis/etc~ connection started derping again and i tested more. The problem isn't specific to any LAN cable or port, but it seems the ONLY problem is PC to router connection over ethernet (all PC's, all ports). Two laptops across the house pinging 1-2ms to router and doing everything fine online but both PC's with direct wired connection to it getting horrible and inconsistent ping to router and everything requiring that connection grinding to a halt or disconnecting. I disabled and re-enabled the intel LAN on my PC and it did nothing, problem once again fixed everywhere just by restarting router. I'l have to google more (and/or maybe talk to Netgear? I'm not sure if there's really a help line for this stuff, and my ISP provides their own routers with poor range & features and expects everybody to use them) but if this helps narrow down the problem, more help is good :D In ~1.5 weeks i went from "shit's broke somewhere" to "problems connecting to router via LAN connections until restarted router, not PC/cable/port specific, wireless and internet work flawlessly" Maybe i should have made a new thread, this is anything but a simple problem ![]() Based on my google search, it sounds like you may want to get into touch with Netgear. I recall seeing posts for that specific router that suggested sporadic issues similar to what you're describing. The firmware update may help, but if it doesn't... RMA and such. | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20315 Posts
May 22 2015 21:31 GMT
#10811
thanks | ||
domane
Canada1606 Posts
May 23 2015 15:41 GMT
#10812
Is it enough? | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
May 23 2015 16:14 GMT
#10813
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Incognoto
France10239 Posts
May 23 2015 17:12 GMT
#10814
i read manga exclusively with firefox because i keep getting bad things without noscript | ||
Craton
United States17253 Posts
May 23 2015 18:04 GMT
#10815
It effectively perempts the DNS by saying "this domain the site wants to reach is really 127.0.0.1 (i.e. your local computer)." Since it obviously isn't, those requests 404. The site I linked regularly adds malware and ad providers to the list. | ||
HyDrA_solic
Portugal491 Posts
May 25 2015 04:08 GMT
#10816
![]() Any tips? It seems that only occurs when I'm playing Heroes. I've made no recent hardware changes at all. | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20315 Posts
May 25 2015 05:08 GMT
#10817
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HyDrA_solic
Portugal491 Posts
May 26 2015 00:53 GMT
#10818
On May 25 2015 14:08 Cyro wrote: ^GPU drivers (or maybe even too high overclocks, if all of the software is fine) Now it shows this: Image 1 Image 2 | ||
Craton
United States17253 Posts
May 26 2015 01:23 GMT
#10819
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HyDrA_solic
Portugal491 Posts
May 26 2015 02:20 GMT
#10820
On May 26 2015 10:23 Craton wrote: That makes me think it's a hardware failure. Does this help? Image1 Image2 | ||
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