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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On May 13 2013 22:56 Flaiker wrote: My Install is pretty fresh. Install the drivers beforehand? You can't install anything beforehand as it will not want to. It needs to detect the hardware. | ||
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Rannasha
Netherlands2398 Posts
On May 13 2013 22:56 Flaiker wrote: My Install is pretty fresh. Install the drivers beforehand? Uninstall drivers for your old hardware first. There's also no garantuee that it'll work, I've done such a "mobo+CPU transplant" twice, the first time it worked perfectly without any problems, the second time I got BSODs after booting with the new hardware and had to reinstall. Be prepared to reinstall, but by all means give it a swing to try w/o reinstall. | ||
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On May 13 2013 19:58 Flaiker wrote: Do I need to reinstall my OS when changing mainboard and CPU? Backup anything you need, it might work but it also might not. | ||
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Epishade
United States2267 Posts
I just reset my computer back to factory settings. I usually do this every few months to clean up all my crap. Lets say I create a backup today. Tomorrow I get a virus. Can I reset it to the backup to get rid of the virus? Or would I have to do another factory reset to completely rid myself of it? I'm sure I catch most viruses with AVG, but a long time ago in the past (before I knew about making backup restore points) I had AVG and I was still getting popups like crazy and slow internet. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
It depends what you mean by a backup, really. A system restore isn't the same as a disk image. --- I'm looking for something that will ultimately get me from an HDMI to VGA port. I have an HDMI to DVI-D adapter, but no way to get from DVI-D to DVI-I/DVI-A that a VGA adapter could use. I have a cheapo TV that I'd like to hook up to my old laptop. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
You can change DVI-I/DVI-A to VGA because that's just running the analog VGA signal (more or less) through the DVI port. There's no provision like that for HDMI. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Unless you know you have some (relatively expensive) active electronics for the job, you're not going to find what you need. | ||
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TRaFFiC
Canada1448 Posts
I got cooler master extreme 2 power plus 625w atx 12v power supply 20/24 pin 120 mm fan. 1,100$ gaming gig. I can tell you what else is inside if it helps. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
I never felt like hardware dying on me was caused by letting a PC run 24/7. In the ancient past, it was said hard drives turning on and off a lot is worse than letting them run continuously. I don't know what's up with that today (probably fixed). CPU and GPU both have serious power saving modes nowadays, clock themselves down and stay pretty cold when you don't do anything taxing on the PC. There will still be fine dust building up inside the case even with some kind of filter on the air intakes, so you should occasionally look inside the case. Just do it when you remember and feel bored every few months. You'll probably be safe even if you only check once a year in the summer, but the dirtier it is the more annoying it'll be to clean. It's something you might have to find out for yourself as it's different depending on the particular room and case. | ||
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TRaFFiC
Canada1448 Posts
On May 15 2013 01:44 Ropid wrote: If you leave it running because you don't like what happens at shutdown, you might want to try out sleep mode and see if you like that. You can leave all programs open. It'll get back to the state you left it in within seconds of you sitting down and turning the PC on. I never felt like hardware dying on me was caused by letting a PC run 24/7. In the ancient past, it was said hard drives turning on and off a lot is worse than letting them run continuously. I don't know what's up with that today (probably fixed). CPU and GPU both have serious power saving modes nowadays, clock themselves down and stay pretty cold when you don't do anything taxing on the PC. There will still be fine dust building up inside the case even with some kind of filter on the air intakes, so you should occasionally look inside the case. Just do it when you remember and feel bored every few months. You'll probably be safe even if you only check once a year in the summer, but the dirtier it is the more annoying it'll be to clean. It's something you might have to find out for yourself as it's different depending on the particular room and case. Thx man. Much appreciated. | ||
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bode927
United States164 Posts
Ive got the 3570k processor, z77x-ud3h gigabyte motherboard, and the corsair h100i cooler. Right now I'm running the processor at 4.5 ghz up from 3.4, and it gets up to about 82 deg C while running prime95 at full load. It's been running for about an hour now with no errors, but is 75-82C a comfortable full load temp for my processor to be at or should I tone it down a bit for the long term? Thanks. Edit: 82C is actually the max tempurature that one of the cores hit. It averages between 70 and 80 depending on the core. How does this look? Note: I'm a total beginner to overclocking. I'm a little shocked that it's going as well as it is. ![[image loading]](http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/Chris_Bode/overclock/Overclock_zps8462fa78.png) | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
What voltage is that at? Do you really need all that much for 4.5 GHz on your chip? (I think that'd be pretty disappointing if that were optimal, considering that you're running a H100i.) edit: wait yeah, 1.38V explains the temperature you're getting. Does it not run stable on anything lower? | ||
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bode927
United States164 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
I also think the temperature is fine at the moment. This means you now know that 1.38 V is fine regarding temperature. You could set similar voltage manually, then find the highest multiplier where the CPU still runs stable. Another stress test program is "IntelBurnTest". I'd use that one as it spits out results faster. It produces more stress and higher temperature, but it actually seems to be a worse indicator for stability than prime95, so it's more of a quick test. It'll be done in a minute or two on its default settings. Using it, you'll find the highest multiplier you can use pretty fast. To reproduce the voltage from your screenshot manually, make sure you set "Load Line Calibration (LLC)" in the BIOS to High or Turbo. By default, voltage drops from the value you've set it to as load increases. That LLC setting keeps it constant. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
On May 14 2013 12:31 Myrmidon wrote: I mean that if you connected HDMI through to DVI-D to DVI-A to VGA (or whatever), that wouldn't work. You got that part, right? No amount of passive adapters is going to work. You need an actual chip to process some digital video input and output the VGA signal. Unless you know you have some (relatively expensive) active electronics for the job, you're not going to find what you need. Yes, I already knew that part. | ||
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Cirqueenflex
499 Posts
I'm running a Samsung Hawk R-580 with an i3 @2.13 + 2.13 GHz and Nvidia M330 graphics card; 4 GB RAM (2.99 usable), Windows 7 so far it has served me very well, but SC2 is often times pretty frustrating because it starts lagging so hard that I literally cannot do anything but wait to die. I run it on lowest setting (even violance reduction lol) and 1280x720. I also noticed that I have the least problems when running it after a clean reboot, and the worst when listening to a stream (even on low resolution) while playing or having done something intensive (running some other stuff like a virtual machine with debian or another windows 7, having played a different game before or used a bigger program/did some browsing in firefox, which seems to require so many ressources). Since I am a somewhat poor student I do not wish to upgrade to a better computer yet, given all the important tools I need for my studies run without a problem (stuff like ANSYS, Quartus suite, Mathlab, PSpice etc etc), so the only thing I really would get would be the ability to run SC2 on higher settings (and lag-free) and play stuff like Planetside 2, which was just a dia show when I tried it on this computer :D Which to be honest would not be enough for me to pay ~500-1k € right now. Here are my questions: - is there something I can do to play SC2 on this computer completely lag-free? Or are the specs just too low? I would be totally satisfied with being able to at least play 1v1 on lowest settings possible without any problems (as long as no one uses mass overlords to drop creep :p). If you tell me this will never happen (although sometimes there are games where I have no lag at all, especially after a restart, so it appears possible to me) I am fine with that as well and will quit playing SC2 for good. - I have tried to open my laptop once to clean it, but failed (did not want to break anything), so I was somewhat satisfied with vacuum cleaning it from the outside and keeping the vent openings clean. I also fear that some of the lag might be because of overheat (and there might be too much dust inside, I don't know), so sometimes I put my computer on two wooden bars to give it more fresh air from below (usually it is just sitting flat on my desk). What would be the best course of action in cleaning the laptop on the inside? Since this is simple questions simple answers: TL; DR: Is my laptop too bad to run SC2 ever completely lag free? What can be done? How can I properly clean it? Thank you very much for your help =) | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
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leo23
United States3075 Posts
BTW the idle cpu temp is like 35c and at a 40% load it goes up to 55C and I haven't tested it yet at high loads (anyone know any good programs to do this) all monitored with RealTemp | ||
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Infernal_dream
United States2359 Posts
On May 15 2013 14:09 leo23 wrote: Ok guys so I just finished setting up my new build (I'm a retard it took me like 16 hours) but I am having a problem. I bought a coolmaster evo 212 and everytime I placed it (w/ thermal paste) and tried to turn the rig on it would turn on for like 4 seconds and then back off and then back on. So I just put the stock fan on my CPU (i5 3570k) and then it did the same but I changed the RAM sticks from places and now the build works.. It's such a pain in the ass to install the coolmaster on my shitty mobo so I was wondering if I should go ahead and try and do it again and change the heatsink and stock fan once again and try to fix it or does anyone else have better ideas? BTW the idle cpu temp is like 35c and at a 40% load it goes up to 55C and I haven't tested it yet at high loads (anyone know any good programs to do this) all monitored with RealTemp The stock fan will be fine as long as you don't overclock it. However you do have a k suffix processor so I assume you'd like to OC at some point in time. The second you attempt that you'll need the aftermarket heatsink. The 3750 isn't the coolest processor Intel has ever put out. | ||
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