Simple Questions Simple Answers - Page 255
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Medrea
10003 Posts
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Blisse
Canada3710 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1325-page4.html http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_GTX_670_Direct_Cu_II/27.html | ||
Fruscainte
4596 Posts
On December 31 2012 07:23 Medrea wrote: Try not to go higher than 78C in the winter. Was actually about to ask this question myself. Currently got my front fan sucking in and my back fan pushing out. New Nvidia 560ti 448 Core is idling around 30-45C, and when playing Crysis 2 at HD Textures DX11 Ultra everything (1920x1080) it was getting over 90. I realized I didn't redownload a fan controller after my reformat so I got my fans up to 70% speed from 40% and it dropped down to around 78-84C during gameplay. I feel like I can get it lower if I pump up my fans to 85%, but that's just so damn loud and I want to know if it's really necessary. Always had a pretty cool card (aka ATI), so I'm not used to pushing it like this lol. A small problem I do have though is how my case is set up. One of my two fans (120mm) is set on the rear top of my case, pushing out. My video card has its fan facing the opposite direction, downward. My PSU fan has its fan facing upward, blowing hot air into my video card. So there's this like turbulent section in the middle of my case where my PSU and GPU are just blowing air into each other. That's kind of the reason I put the intake fan on the front, because I can set it lower so it can blow between the two, and hopefully up through my top cage and out through my back fan. Am I just worrying over nothing, or is this a massive failure in terms of how my case is set up? Pic related, best shot I can get without opening my case (already had to pull it out and walk it over to my bathroom to open it three times tonight, don't really want to again). My next purchase on the list, other than a new HDD, is a bigass fan to put on my top grill to push in air. + Show Spoiler [image] + ![]() | ||
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Power supply fans are intake, not exhaust. Hot air rises. Top fans should almost always be exhaust. An intake on top would actually be useless in your case since exhaust fans are situated at the top rear. The air taken in from the top would just go out the top rear, never coming into contact with your GPU. | ||
Fruscainte
4596 Posts
On December 31 2012 14:33 skyR wrote: 85c is on the hot side but it's fine, just be mindful of dust buildup. Power supply fans are intake, not exhaust. Hot air rises. Top fans should almost always be exhaust. An intake on top would actually be useless in your case since exhaust fans are situated at the top rear. The air taken in from the top would just go out the top rear, never coming into contact with your GPU. Had no idea PSU was intake, the more you know. Yeah I kind of thought that might be an issue. I feel like a second exhaust fan there would be extremely redundant. I just realized I have a vent on the left side of my case, that would be able to have a fan pushing air right into my video card near the bottom. I'd have to move my desktop out to the right by a foot or two to give it some air to even suck in, but that seems like it might be a bit more beneficial. | ||
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
That unpainted interior and top holes look like HAF 912. If you want and don't have the case sitting on carpet, you can rotate the power supply so the fan is facing downwards, getting intake from below the case. That way it's not disrupting the area around the graphics card and also not unnecessarily taking in hot air. Side intake may help, but beware of dust. A filter might be a good idea. Top exhaust could also help, bringing hot air from GPU area out. Depends on the GPU cooler. For a blower model that exhausts out back, you definitely want the side intake. For a more open-air cooler, I'm not sure. Anyway, chassis airflow generally won't have a huge impact on cooling, unless you're looking at a particularly restrictive case or have a really nonsensical setup. Check for any dust buildup in the GPU cooler. | ||
Doodsmack
United States7224 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147190 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148444 So basically the question is whether there's any reason I should avoid the above two in favor of the 840 pro 500gb or 830 500gb. Another question would be whether there might be a better 500gb option from another brand. | ||
Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On December 31 2012 07:09 kef wrote: Good point, I haven't cleaned out the inside of the case in a while. I should've thought of that. Also, what temperatures are normal/abnormal for a gpu? My 6870s hit 90C on a bad day (40C outside today) you wouldn't want to go over that. | ||
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On December 31 2012 16:11 Doodsmack wrote: + Show Spoiler + I'm in the market for an SSD. Ideally I would want to be using it as my only drive, since I don't keep media files or anything like that that would require mass storage. However I currently use right around 250 gigs for games and programs, meaning I would probably want to get something larger than that in an SSD. So based on reading some past threads I get the impression that the best choices are Crucial M4 or Samsung 840/830. As for 500gb options, 840 pro 500gb and 830 500gb are both $500+. On the other hand, there are these two options for 500gb, each around $400: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147190 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148444 So basically the question is whether there's any reason I should avoid the above two in favor of the 840 pro 500gb or 830 500gb. Another question would be whether there might be a better 500gb option from another brand. B&H is selling the Samsung 840 500GB for $314, so if you really want an SSD that large, I'd take that: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?is=REG&Q=&A=details&O=productlist&sku=897033 If for whatever reason you've never heard of them, seller rating on Google is average 4.9/5 in 33,421 reviews. They're legit. 840 Pro is a bit faster, but no normal desktop user should be able to tell the difference. | ||
Doodsmack
United States7224 Posts
On December 31 2012 16:22 Myrmidon wrote: B&H is selling the Samsung 840 500GB for $314, so if you really want an SSD that large, I'd take that: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?is=REG&Q=&A=details&O=productlist&sku=897033 If for whatever reason you've never heard of them, seller rating on Google is average 4.9/5 in 33,421 reviews. They're legit. 840 Pro is a bit faster, but no normal desktop user should be able to tell the difference. Only potential problem with that drive is that its TLC rather than MLC. After reading up a bit on the difference I'm a bit scared about the longetivity of TLC. I don't know anything about this subject but does heavy gaming involve a lot of writing to the hard drive? Maybe the Crucial option is better if its MLC. | ||
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
How much raw writes do you think you're going to do per day, 200 GB? Yeah right. | ||
Doodsmack
United States7224 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Samsung's 840 uses its own TLC flash, so of course they have a head start on others for validating and testing it, being confident to release a product with it. Others may also balk at releasing a product or lineup where they're dependent on one supplier (Samsung, who's a large competitor, no less) for flash, if that's actually the case. A lot of the popular SSD controllers don't have TLC flash support too. Anyway, it's not extraordinarily cheaper to produce. But it's a matter of time before more follow suit. | ||
Doodsmack
United States7224 Posts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514 | ||
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
There are no concerns with compatibility. The SSD talks with the AMD SB950 chip on the motherboard. I'm just making comments about the internals that users shouldn't have to worry about. Sorry for the confusion. | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20275 Posts
Second output on GPU not working correctly (gtx580) - worked fine before, just randomly booted once or was playing, and screen suddenly no longer displaying desktop Screen works, recieves signal (tried 3 screens, all show "no signal" if i unplug, keep power on etc) all power saving settings disabled restarted a bunch, changed screens around, the one in second DVI out never displays anything but black, i can screenshot the desktop that they are supposed to be displaying and view it on the one screen that does work (first output) second output was the one that showed boot and bios screens etc somehow in troubleshooting this (probably random power offs when i had no display) i reset some CPU settings from overclock and now CPU is running at 18x133mhz (2.4ghz) instead of the stock 3.06, or overclocked 3.6 that i had comfortably before. Cant access bios, cant fix things. Cmos reset doesnt change the multiplier, which i had lowered because most overclocking with 900 series i7's is done with base clock (to ~200mhz) Tried rolling back drivers from ~310 to ~306 before, no change. Temps are fine, CPU in the 30's, GPU in the 50's. Not sure what to do, any hints? ^This pretty accurately describes issue too. Kinda difficult to replace a 580 though. If i can get into bios using the other output and fix CPU il probably just stick with 1 screen for a while assuming everything still runs fine - but it sucks to have something like this happen on new year | ||
Rachnar
France1526 Posts
Also unplug/replug the 6+2 pins connectors | ||
Cyro
United Kingdom20275 Posts
PSU is a decent quality 650w | ||
Rachnar
France1526 Posts
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