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Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
December 31 2012 22:37 GMT
#5101
Np, still better than no replies, everyone doing stuff for new years and im just sitting here m - Um trying to play Starcraft
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-12-31 22:47:17
December 31 2012 22:46 GMT
#5102
On January 01 2013 06:06 Cyro wrote:
Long story short:

Second output on GPU not working correctly (gtx580) - worked fine before, just randomly booted once or was playing, and screen suddenly no longer displaying desktop

Screen works, recieves signal (tried 3 screens, all show "no signal" if i unplug, keep power on etc)

all power saving settings disabled

restarted a bunch, changed screens around, the one in second DVI out never displays anything but black, i can screenshot the desktop that they are supposed to be displaying and view it on the one screen that does work (first output)

second output was the one that showed boot and bios screens etc

somehow in troubleshooting this (probably random power offs when i had no display) i reset some CPU settings from overclock and now CPU is running at 18x133mhz (2.4ghz) instead of the stock 3.06, or overclocked 3.6 that i had comfortably before. Cant access bios, cant fix things. Cmos reset doesnt change the multiplier, which i had lowered because most overclocking with 900 series i7's is done with base clock (to ~200mhz)

Tried rolling back drivers from ~310 to ~306 before, no change.

Temps are fine, CPU in the 30's, GPU in the 50's.

Not sure what to do, any hints?

Show nested quote +
http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/f24/2nd-monitor-detected-but-stays-black-604178.html


^This pretty accurately describes issue too. Kinda difficult to replace a 580 though.

If i can get into bios using the other output and fix CPU il probably just stick with 1 screen for a while assuming everything still runs fine - but it sucks to have something like this happen on new year


Well, it's a 900 series CPU, a lot of X58 motherboards have multiple PCI-e slots. Does yours? I doubt it'll help at all, but if it does, try swapping it to a different one, could be some sort of weird physical fault developed on the motherboard that's causing screwy shorts.

Also, were you clearing CMOS via a button, or manually?

Also, note that I have next to no confidence this will help, but it sounds like desperation may be a good gesture.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-12-31 22:54:19
December 31 2012 22:51 GMT
#5103
Button on the back, ive used it before. It clearly didnt reset everything though.

It does have multiple slots, im kinda hesitant to get physical with it though right now (alcohol and inexperience)

Im kinda thinking right now more in the "get it working well enough and deal with it later" mindset, so looking at getting into BIOS to sort out settings. RAM is unset, CPU at 2.4ghz etcetc.

First output shows nothing until windows boots, second one shows nothing (but formerly showed boot screens, bios etc), is there an easy way to get those on the other output?
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
December 31 2012 22:53 GMT
#5104
On January 01 2013 07:51 Cyro wrote:
Button on the back, ive used it before. It clearly didnt reset everything though.

It does have multiple slots, im kinda hesitant to get physical with it though right now (alcohol and inexperience)


Yeah, those handy buttons are great at times, but I'd try doing it manually with the CMOS battery, and try the other PCIe slot. But that's just me, I'm always willing to try a million steps of workarounds when something goes screwy with my PC.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-12-31 23:51:20
December 31 2012 23:50 GMT
#5105
The output that is "dead" is the one closest to motherboard, which is aparantly ALWAYS primary, ive had no success getting around that in software/drivers etc
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
azngamer828
Profile Joined July 2008
United States137 Posts
January 01 2013 00:03 GMT
#5106
i was wondering if anyone knew where i could buy a zowie celeritas pretty cheap?
newegg had it for $100 but it was all sold out
amazon is pretty expensive with $120
sorry if this was a useless post, but hey, an asian can try :p
please and thanks
Pew Pew
azngamer828
Profile Joined July 2008
United States137 Posts
January 01 2013 00:14 GMT
#5107
also i would like to get a new graphics card but i dont know what would fit suitable for me
i only play starcraft 2 with pretty much low settings (texture is medium)
i mostly would want a graphics card to have a higher fps
i watch alot of videos and i would also really like it if i could watch it usually in 720p (i wouldnt mind the 1080p though :p)

specs im pretty sure that i have to give
memory ram is the integral = 2gb
intel core 2 duo 2.93 ghz
graphics card = old school :p = nvidia geforce 9500 gt
*if you need more details please ask, though i am a noob when it comes to computers, so please go easy :D haha
Pew Pew
Rollin
Profile Joined March 2011
Australia1552 Posts
January 01 2013 06:09 GMT
#5108
On January 01 2013 09:14 azngamer828 wrote:
also i would like to get a new graphics card but i dont know what would fit suitable for me
i only play starcraft 2 with pretty much low settings (texture is medium)
i mostly would want a graphics card to have a higher fps
i watch alot of videos and i would also really like it if i could watch it usually in 720p (i wouldnt mind the 1080p though :p)

specs im pretty sure that i have to give
memory ram is the integral = 2gb
intel core 2 duo 2.93 ghz
graphics card = old school :p = nvidia geforce 9500 gt
*if you need more details please ask, though i am a noob when it comes to computers, so please go easy :D haha

The 9500gt is pretty much good enough for absolute low settings, a new graphics card will allow some higher settings, but if your fps is fine at the beginning of the game, and the issue is ONLY when food counts start to raise, a new cpu/mobo/ram is your upgrade path, and it will be rather involved.
Throw off those chains of reason, and your prison disappears. | Check your posting frequency timeline: http://www.teamliquid.net/mytlnet/post_activity_img.php
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 13:16:02
January 01 2013 06:43 GMT
#5109
Cant change primary display port outside of bios, cant get into bios because primary display port doesnt work, frustrating.

Tried other PCI-E slots, same results there too, its just a semi-dead port. The monitor seems to recieve signal and backlight comes on etc, but just no display.

Is there any way to deal with this other than stealing someone elses GPU for a while?

It seems like a bad joke that a single DVI port failure can bring down an entire system for days.

You seriously cant even access BIOS without it, how is there not a failsafe for this?

The entire situation just seems so stupid to me, no display so hard power off which resets a ton of bios settings so CPU is running at 20% below stock speed and system unstable because of voltage settings and cant fix anything because of the issue in the first place preventing displays from working properly. Could probably reset cmos manually and get back to all stock settings, but that doesnt include RAM timings or voltage etc, and im not gonna attempt that for the first time without being sober, it just seems silly for such a massive mess to come out of a simple, single DVI port half-failing
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Belial88
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
United States5217 Posts
January 01 2013 19:08 GMT
#5110
Simple Question:

The cheapest 2x2GB RAM on newegg is the following:

1600 CL8 1.5v $8.99 (x2 = 17.98)
1866 CL9 1.5v $17.99

Which is better? I mean, can't you just underclock/overclock the 1600 CL8 to 1866 CL9? Aren't these 2 rams essentially the same?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611 600006050 600006061&IsNodeId=1&name=2GB&Order=PRICE

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611 600006050 600006066&IsNodeId=1&name=4GB (2 x 2GB)&Order=PRICE

I mean they look different, so maybe there's a little difference, but let's say this question is in general.
How to build a $500 i7-3770K Ultimate Computer:http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 ******** 100% Safe Razorless Delid Method! http://www.overclock.net/t/1376206/how-to-delid-your-ivy-bridge-cpu-with-out-a-razor-blade/0_100
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
January 01 2013 19:16 GMT
#5111
Realistically, odds are you can overclock the 1600 to 1866 without loosening your timings. The expensive kit has LEDs, the cheap kit has a stupidly tall heat spreader you'd have to rip off if you're using a giant air cooler. Not that you need heat spreaders on RAM.

OCing RAM is just like a CPU, there's never a guarantee what you can do with sane voltages or individual components.
Rollin
Profile Joined March 2011
Australia1552 Posts
January 01 2013 19:22 GMT
#5112
What would you be using the computer for that would notice the difference anyway? Physics simulations? Trying to game on IGP(lol)? Pointless benchmarks that are meaningless in real life?
Throw off those chains of reason, and your prison disappears. | Check your posting frequency timeline: http://www.teamliquid.net/mytlnet/post_activity_img.php
skyR
Profile Joined July 2009
Canada13817 Posts
January 01 2013 19:22 GMT
#5113
You realize the $8.99 kit is 1866MHz cas9 and the $17.99 kit is 1600MHz cas8 ...
Belial88
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
United States5217 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 19:27:22
January 01 2013 19:25 GMT
#5114
i mean the 'cheap' kit is just the 2x2gb for one penny less, it's not really cheap kit lol.

It is obnoxious the huge heat spreader, and the led's doesn't sound too appealing. If they were identical in performance, then I'd probably get the smaller ones (heatspreaders don't do shit and i usually have an intake fan cable tied up top anyways).

I understand OCing RAM is just as unreliable as anything else, but with the looser timings on the 1866, isn't that exactly the same thing?

I mean 1600mhz ram at cl8, if you just loosened it to cl9, im sure it'd run at 1866 ram just fine (i mean im sure both of the ram would do just fine to go above and beyond 1866 cl8 but, you know, within expectations, i suppose).

Ram rated at 1866 CL9, isn't that exactly the same thing as 1600 CL8? Just loosen the timing and speed up the bandwidth, it's not even really an overclock. I mean on certain systems I'm sure fasterspeed/more latency is better or worse. But it'd be like marketing an i5 2500 as 3.3ghz 1.1v, and then another for 3.5ghz 1.2v, when in reality it's exactly the same 'thing', even though one might be binned a lot better, or they could be like totally different CPUs (even different dies) but the 'worse' one overclocks better due to silicon lottery.

Aren't they fundamentally, the exact same thing, by rating. RAM sold at 1866mhz CL9 vs 1600mhz CL8. Obviously one might be different ICs and thus might be superior to the other, or the brand, or whatever.


You realize the $8.99 kit is 1866MHz cas9 and the $17.99 kit is 1600MHz cas8 ...


yes, i do. That's the entire basis of my question... 1866mhz cl9 ram is just 1600mhz cl8 ram that's loosened timng, faster bandwidth. it's not like it's 'better', right? If it was 1866 cl8, it would obviously be better.

am i just looking at this wrong or something? I've always overclocked ram like that, you could push the timings further but that would cause you to have to increase volts and/or back down on the speed, or you could push the speed but would have to back down the timings.
How to build a $500 i7-3770K Ultimate Computer:http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 ******** 100% Safe Razorless Delid Method! http://www.overclock.net/t/1376206/how-to-delid-your-ivy-bridge-cpu-with-out-a-razor-blade/0_100
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 19:29:06
January 01 2013 19:26 GMT
#5115
In the end its almost irrelevant, above 1600mhz cas9 you see like 5% performance gains for spending 5-10x more in synthetic benchmarks and pretty much nothing else

That's the entire basis of my question... 1866mhz cl9 ram is just 1600mhz cl8 ram that's loosened timng, faster bandwidth. it's not like it's 'better', right?


Pretty much the same thing, looser timings and higher clock speed pretty much the same as tighter timings and lower clock speed in terms of performance
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Belial88
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
United States5217 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 19:31:20
January 01 2013 19:28 GMT
#5116
What would you be using the computer for that would notice the difference anyway? Physics simulations? Trying to game on IGP(lol)? Pointless benchmarks that are meaningless in real life?


Totally true. But given that they are the exact same cost (excuse the 1 penny difference...), I'll go with the better performing RAM.

These are both literally the 2 cheapest kits on newegg right now. Even cheaper than any ram with no heatspreader on them. If there is any cheaper 2x2gb kits or 2gb single x 2 ram out there, i'd go for that instead.

I understand that ram is not very important, but the question is that 2 ram that are the cheapest possible ram, with identical prices, and 1.5v and at least cl9. which one do yo ugo for, 1600mhz CL8 or 1866 CL9.

I'd be overclocking the ram, and i know silicon lottery can make one ram worse/better than the other, and it's possible one of the RAM is simply better quality or overclocker, but going purely by RAM specs..

Isn't 1866 CL9 just increased bandwidth/loosened latency 1600mhz CL8, ie the exact same ram.
How to build a $500 i7-3770K Ultimate Computer:http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 ******** 100% Safe Razorless Delid Method! http://www.overclock.net/t/1376206/how-to-delid-your-ivy-bridge-cpu-with-out-a-razor-blade/0_100
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20343 Posts
January 01 2013 19:29 GMT
#5117
Its RAM, dont freak out over a few dollars anyhow
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Belial88
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
United States5217 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 19:32:53
January 01 2013 19:31 GMT
#5118
well i just want the best choice. if we dont know the answer here than ill look deeper. i feel like im trying to communicate something that isn't being understood, or i've misunderstood. i mean i overclock my ram, i could set it to ~1350mhz@CL7 or ~1600mhz CL9.

The ram is originally spec'd at 1333mhzCL9 1.5v, but there's like a give and take with speed, and timings.
How to build a $500 i7-3770K Ultimate Computer:http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 ******** 100% Safe Razorless Delid Method! http://www.overclock.net/t/1376206/how-to-delid-your-ivy-bridge-cpu-with-out-a-razor-blade/0_100
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
January 01 2013 19:32 GMT
#5119
You're paying more for the LEDs. The heat spreaders are most likely simple to remove.

http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?http://www.ocinside.de/html/workshop/howto_remove_ram_heatspreader.html

For a guy who said not to buy a -k unless you're willing to delid a CPU, I'd expect this not to be a problem.

And yes, generally speaking, 1600 C8 and 1866 C9 are interchangeable, especially since most of the time you can squeeze way more out of RAM than they're rated for, just like with anything else you can OC.
Belial88
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
United States5217 Posts
Last Edited: 2013-01-01 19:37:57
January 01 2013 19:34 GMT
#5120
^ In all the RAM I've ever bought, it was never that simple to remove. There was no convenient clamp on them. Like:

[image loading]

If you were to look at the top view, the heatspreaders are smoothly connected, it's not like a flat metal plate just stuck on top of the ic's. they dont come off.


You're paying more for the LEDs. The heat spreaders are most likely simple to remove.

http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?http://www.ocinside.de/html/workshop/howto_remove_ram_heatspreader.html

For a guy who said not to buy a -k unless you're willing to delid a CPU, I'd expect this not to be a problem.

And yes, generally speaking, 1600 C8 and 1866 C9 are interchangeable, especially since most of the time you can squeeze way more out of RAM than they're rated for, just like with anything else you can OC.


I did not say that, but you can keep misquoting and putting comments out of context if you'd like. It's more like I said sb is a better buy than ib if you aren't willing to delid (or more specifically, whichever one is cheaper, although sb should be cheaper but mc in my area currently doesnt have the sb while the ib is for $169 and they dont carry z68/p67), or a locked ib (especially if your strapped for cash and both 2500k/3570k are both right on the edge of your budget as it is and you cant get a decent gpu/ssd/everything else because of going 2500k/3570k).

I dont find the heatspreaders or LEDs a problem though, if that's what your getting at. Your just derailing my question, as it's more of a general question really.
How to build a $500 i7-3770K Ultimate Computer:http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 ******** 100% Safe Razorless Delid Method! http://www.overclock.net/t/1376206/how-to-delid-your-ivy-bridge-cpu-with-out-a-razor-blade/0_100
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