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saltywaffles
United States91 Posts
On September 25 2012 16:38 iKill[ShocK] wrote: what you have linked is a rad 7850 btw. and if youre just gaming then the short answer is no. (hell it could be be the other way around) Haha oops. Ya I meant 7850. Using phone and I fat fingered the 7 lol. Thanks, an ya all I'll do is gaming. | ||
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Pusekatten
Norway234 Posts
On September 25 2012 11:39 Sovano wrote: Quick question. I keep my laptop on for several days straight sometimes purely so I can seed torrents to have a good seed/leech ratio. My laptop doesn't have any heating issues (even during games) and is plugged in the entire time. Is it particularly bad for the laptop if not that the battery in any way? Most laptops bypass the battery when its pluged in, so it wont use up the battery recharge cycles. Thats why laptops can be used when pluged in without having a battery in. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
Started over, d0 i7 950, very stable at 200x19 (3.8ghz) at 1.275 qpi/vtt voltage and 1.281vcore with HT on, but not ideal cooling. Temperature wise, while im barely touching the low 70's with x264, a minute or so with Intelburntest or a little while with prime95 will push temps into the 80's, and after a while longer, they level out at around 84-86c. I think with the right situations it could be pushed a few degrees higher, and its not summer, so those temps are kinda too high for comfort for me, but i dont come close to them in non stress test situations and it seems rock solid right now, though i cant lower vtt (notches are big), and with vcore 1 notch down stability is in question after heavy stress testing, so i appear to be stuck with those temps, or very close to them. 4 options in my head - 1. Stick with this, temps probably wont get too high (mid to high 70's AT MOST) during my normal usage, should be a good 3.8ghz with HT on. 2. Disable HT, giving more thermal headroom, can switch voltages around a few touches and push for a little higher clocks (perhaps 4ghz?) without HT. Temps seem a lot cooler without, but i dont have exact numbers, il update this post in like 10 minutes with a quick comparison. My 20x multiplier seems to be very unstable (i got 2 different bluescreens trying to boot into it) but 21x190 boots fine and should be stable with a little tweaking, id lose 5% of my RAM frequency, but hell, its RAM frequency. Id like this option for the higher performance in sc2/gw2 and a few other games, some seem to perform very slightly better with HT disabled, but the clock speed increase creates a performance gap between HT on and off in games when cooling is insufficient. Id take a performance hit for encoding (normal, and xsplit) but i should be more than fine anyways. ^Update. 15mins Prime95 and im at 77c without HT, thats an easy ~8-10c drop. Plenty of room for voltage bumps to push clock up that extra 5.5% from 3.8ghz, or ~11% from 3.6. 3. Dial down clocks a bit, go for ~3.6ghz with HT on, stable, but with lower voltage/s, and go for lower temps. 4. Another suggestion from somebody else. My standard usage would be gaming, gw2, sc2+xsplit (720p60@super/veryfast gives me plenty of cpu room), internet stuff and occasional random encoding of a fraps or xsplit video with x264, not much else. Opinions and thoughts? Thanks in advance (: | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20343 Posts
On September 25 2012 21:38 Womwomwom wrote: Just dial clocks down a little bit. 0.2ghz isn't going to make or break anything. Put quite a bit of time into overclocking anyway. 3.6ghz+HT vs 4.0 is quite the performance gap. | ||
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iET
Norway40 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Look, a scenario where video RAM made a difference! Only took 4x680 SLI with 4GB cards over 2GB cards to be hugely significant. The higher score FPS from the graphics tests: Graphics Test 1: 94.87 FPS Graphics Test 2: 95.95 FPS Graphics Test 3: 89.27 FPS Graphics Test 4: 56.33 FPS And the lower Graphics Test 1: 94.02 FPS Graphics Test 2: 92.93 FPS Graphics Test 3: 83.01 FPS Graphics Test 4: 51.49 FPS Note, these are the current highest two scores in the world for 3dMark11, ignoring the physics and combined results. This gives some nice solid, VISIBLE evidence for how little difference Video RAM makes. The GPU clocks are the same, both are 4way SLI. Tiny differences. | ||
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2v2TLRSimba
25 Posts
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Grobyc
Canada18410 Posts
i5-2450M 2.5GHz (turbo boost to 3.1GHz) GeForce GT 630M 1GB 6GB DDR3 Was I mistaken? When first launching D3 it told me to update GPU drivers for the detected GPU which was listed as the integrated HD 3000. My GPU drivers are all up to date, 100% sure. I literally don't even get 5 fps when walking in town or sitting in the menus. I know I don't have a sick gaming laptop, but I should be able to get "playable" fps on the lowest settings shouldn't I? I already checked my BIOS and the only setting there lets me switch between Integrated and Switchable. It was already on Switchable. | ||
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Grobyc
Canada18410 Posts
Tweaked a couple power options and it's at like 12 now... | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 28 2012 02:33 Grobyc wrote: I should easily be able to get playable fps on low, no?: http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GT-630M.63761.0.html Tweaked a couple power options and it's at like 12 now... If it's got a dedicated GPU, make sure that's running if it had you update the integrated. Try disabling Optimus, or whatever the GPU switching is called. Make sure it's using the right device, in other words. | ||
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Grobyc
Canada18410 Posts
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RebirthOfLeGenD
USA5860 Posts
Anyway, if I upgrade the to the core 2 quad it increases the wattage draw quite a bit. I have a 220w PSU in the computer and newegg PSU calc says i need a 300w but newegg always overshoots anyway so I checked this site http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and it says minimum 174, recommended 224 I have 2x2gb DDR2 sticks, 1 DVD drive 1 raid card PCI-E x1 1 5450 1 7200rpm HD And a Q8200 would be the new, a c2d 6200 is the old/current. Anyway, I wanted to know if this is a bad idea and if I am about to break something? I'd prefer not to invest in a new PSU because finding one for a mini tower is a pain and I'd rather not invest money into it anyway. If I remove the CD drive and minimize USB devices I can lower it by about 10-15 watts, but is that worth it? It says minimum is like 175 and recommended is 219-225. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
It really depends on the design and condition of the power supply. Do you have a very clear shot of the label or know what the exact model number is? If it's some kind of junker OEM build from eMachines / Acer / whatever, and the computer's been in use a while, you might possibly have some concerns (but I'd still go ahead with the upgrade and not bother changing the power supply). If it's some kind of business-class Dell / HP build or workstation with something like a Delta OEM PSU, I'm sure it will be way more than fine. | ||
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RebirthOfLeGenD
USA5860 Posts
On September 28 2012 06:11 Myrmidon wrote: Power draw would be far below 220W, below 174W easily. Removing the CD drive and USB devices is silly. Don't bother. It really depends on the design and condition of the power supply. Do you have a very clear shot of the label or know what the exact model number is? If it's some kind of junker OEM build from eMachines / Acer / whatever, and the computer's been in use a while, you might possibly have some concerns (but I'd still go ahead with the upgrade and not bother changing the power supply). If it's some kind of business-class Dell / HP build or workstation with something like a Delta OEM PSU, I'm sure it will be way more than fine. You caught it with the Acer lol. It's around 4-5 years old I'd say. Acer OEM PSU. What concerns might there be? I know I read the wear down a bit, but even the calculator like the one I linked to show it around 220 which I assumed was accounting for time and wear on the PSU. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
Like I said, I'd use it regardless. It's not like a $2000 new computer anyway. The increased load of a few dozen watts under max CPU load shouldn't be pushing a part beyond what it's rated to do. It's just some additional stress and heat on certain components that aren't particularly built to last many years, may be coated somewhat in dust, and so on. You're maybe increasing the likelihood of failure slightly. | ||
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joeschmo
United States167 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 28 2012 21:36 joeschmo wrote: I have two six pin connectors in my graphics card (gtx 560 ti). The wires combine into one six pin connector which is in my power supply (650w). Is this ok? I'm afraid the two six pin connectors combined into one six pin connector is overload of some sort, obviously i'm not sure. I've been trying to write my problem for search engines but to no avail. If this too is incomprehensible, I will rewrite it, if not an answer would be nice. This is confusing. You seem to be saying either that you're not running two cables to your PSU, or that both connectors from your PSU are on one cable and you're scared the wires can't handle the load. You need to have a 6pin PCIe plugged into each of the two on your GPU. If your PSU doesn't have two of them, use the adapter that came with the GPU for the other one. (Or should have come with it.) What PSU are you using, and which of those two scenarios are you trying to describe? | ||
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joeschmo
United States167 Posts
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PWFCU/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0JBGDKV7N7DJF99BW9J0&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846 Here is a picture of the cable. | ||
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Rannasha
Netherlands2398 Posts
On September 28 2012 22:47 joeschmo wrote: There is 2 six pin connectors plugged in my graphics card. There is one six pin connector plugged in my power supply. The cable itself combines the 12 wires into 1 six pin connector which is in my power box. My psu is Corsair and it is 650watt. The first scenerio best describes my issue. This is fine. Do you have an actual problem or were just not wanting to try this setup without asking about it? Your system should work fine with this setup. | ||
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