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On September 22 2012 12:11 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On September 22 2012 06:38 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 06:30 Cyro wrote:On September 21 2012 22:33 JingleHell wrote:On September 21 2012 16:54 Cyro wrote:
I have an i7 950 and Gigabyte X58A-UD3R and ive ran at 166-200 bclk before, but now when i set to etc 165 bclk, it reads as 150-155 in CPU-Z and is extremely unstable regardless of voltages. 170 will instant bluescreen as "loading windows" pops up. I have adjusted vtt and vcore as well as tried auto vtt and some other settings, but i didnt have to do any of that before. I was trying to set low multipliers, 165 base clock 16 multi etc, so not pushing clock speeds or anything aside from the base clock itself, and i made sure uncore/ram and all the basics were not messed up in any obvious way too. The CPU is stable and fine at 160x24 and 1.264vcore with a max temp in the low 70's with regular usage, but the bclk behaivour seemed really odd to me and didnt seem like a common issue on google.
Any idea whats wrong? Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. Done some more testing. Reset to stock etc, tried various multis, stability is not the issue as much as 165 base clock literally reports and runs as 150 in CPU-Z regardless of settings as far as i can see
First thing I'd do there is run a 3dmark physics test or similar at both 150 bclk and 165. See if it's just CPU-z or if it's something else being wonky. Are power management features disabled? They're known to cause a bit of screwy shit in first gen i7s OCed.
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
On September 22 2012 12:16 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On September 22 2012 12:11 Cyro wrote:On September 22 2012 06:38 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 06:30 Cyro wrote:On September 21 2012 22:33 JingleHell wrote:On September 21 2012 16:54 Cyro wrote:
I have an i7 950 and Gigabyte X58A-UD3R and ive ran at 166-200 bclk before, but now when i set to etc 165 bclk, it reads as 150-155 in CPU-Z and is extremely unstable regardless of voltages. 170 will instant bluescreen as "loading windows" pops up. I have adjusted vtt and vcore as well as tried auto vtt and some other settings, but i didnt have to do any of that before. I was trying to set low multipliers, 165 base clock 16 multi etc, so not pushing clock speeds or anything aside from the base clock itself, and i made sure uncore/ram and all the basics were not messed up in any obvious way too. The CPU is stable and fine at 160x24 and 1.264vcore with a max temp in the low 70's with regular usage, but the bclk behaivour seemed really odd to me and didnt seem like a common issue on google.
Any idea whats wrong? Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. Done some more testing. Reset to stock etc, tried various multis, stability is not the issue as much as 165 base clock literally reports and runs as 150 in CPU-Z regardless of settings as far as i can see First thing I'd do there is run a 3dmark physics test or similar at both 150 bclk and 165. See if it's just CPU-z or if it's something else being wonky. Are power management features disabled? They're known to cause a bit of screwy shit in first gen i7s OCed.
Yes, all power management disabled. It performs as if it were 150bclk, but is lucky to last 30 seconds, is extremely unstable if i boot like that
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On September 22 2012 12:57 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On September 22 2012 12:16 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 12:11 Cyro wrote:On September 22 2012 06:38 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 06:30 Cyro wrote:On September 21 2012 22:33 JingleHell wrote:On September 21 2012 16:54 Cyro wrote:
I have an i7 950 and Gigabyte X58A-UD3R and ive ran at 166-200 bclk before, but now when i set to etc 165 bclk, it reads as 150-155 in CPU-Z and is extremely unstable regardless of voltages. 170 will instant bluescreen as "loading windows" pops up. I have adjusted vtt and vcore as well as tried auto vtt and some other settings, but i didnt have to do any of that before. I was trying to set low multipliers, 165 base clock 16 multi etc, so not pushing clock speeds or anything aside from the base clock itself, and i made sure uncore/ram and all the basics were not messed up in any obvious way too. The CPU is stable and fine at 160x24 and 1.264vcore with a max temp in the low 70's with regular usage, but the bclk behaivour seemed really odd to me and didnt seem like a common issue on google.
Any idea whats wrong? Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. Done some more testing. Reset to stock etc, tried various multis, stability is not the issue as much as 165 base clock literally reports and runs as 150 in CPU-Z regardless of settings as far as i can see First thing I'd do there is run a 3dmark physics test or similar at both 150 bclk and 165. See if it's just CPU-z or if it's something else being wonky. Are power management features disabled? They're known to cause a bit of screwy shit in first gen i7s OCed. Yes, all power management disabled. It performs as if it were 150bclk, but is lucky to last 30 seconds, is extremely unstable if i boot like that
I'd be way less worried about performance and reported clock if the shit won't run... maybe my priorities suck. Possible you have or have had heat issues, could be a BIOS update needed, could be a bad PSU, could be a fucked mobo, could be RAM related...
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
On September 22 2012 13:01 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On September 22 2012 12:57 Cyro wrote:On September 22 2012 12:16 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 12:11 Cyro wrote:On September 22 2012 06:38 JingleHell wrote:On September 22 2012 06:30 Cyro wrote:On September 21 2012 22:33 JingleHell wrote:On September 21 2012 16:54 Cyro wrote:
I have an i7 950 and Gigabyte X58A-UD3R and ive ran at 166-200 bclk before, but now when i set to etc 165 bclk, it reads as 150-155 in CPU-Z and is extremely unstable regardless of voltages. 170 will instant bluescreen as "loading windows" pops up. I have adjusted vtt and vcore as well as tried auto vtt and some other settings, but i didnt have to do any of that before. I was trying to set low multipliers, 165 base clock 16 multi etc, so not pushing clock speeds or anything aside from the base clock itself, and i made sure uncore/ram and all the basics were not messed up in any obvious way too. The CPU is stable and fine at 160x24 and 1.264vcore with a max temp in the low 70's with regular usage, but the bclk behaivour seemed really odd to me and didnt seem like a common issue on google.
Any idea whats wrong? Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. Done some more testing. Reset to stock etc, tried various multis, stability is not the issue as much as 165 base clock literally reports and runs as 150 in CPU-Z regardless of settings as far as i can see First thing I'd do there is run a 3dmark physics test or similar at both 150 bclk and 165. See if it's just CPU-z or if it's something else being wonky. Are power management features disabled? They're known to cause a bit of screwy shit in first gen i7s OCed. Yes, all power management disabled. It performs as if it were 150bclk, but is lucky to last 30 seconds, is extremely unstable if i boot like that I'd be way less worried about performance and reported clock if the shit won't run... maybe my priorities suck. Possible you have or have had heat issues, could be a BIOS update needed, could be a bad PSU, could be a fucked mobo, could be RAM related...
Its only unstable when the reported base clock isnt what i set in the bios though
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Will a ultrabook be able to play sc2 without any lagg in 1v1?
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I have two questions:
1) My BIOS has two different vcore settings, offset and fixed. From what I understand, offset allows the vcore and multiplier to change depending on the load on the CPU while fixed keeps a constant multiplier and vcore independent of the load. Will a fixed vcore shorten the CPU's lifespan? I'm more comfortable oc-ing with a fixed vcore because configuring the offset voltages confuses me. I found a guide that explains what to do for an offset vcore oc, but I'm still not sure how exactly it works. I plan on trying for 4.5GHz with 1.25v on a 3570k with an Asrock Z77 Extreme4 with a Coolermaster Hyper 212+. In terms of the settings in the BIOS, I'll be doing something like this.
2) Since this is my system's second motherboard, I know that I have to reinstall Windows. How do I format my SSD to do a fresh install of Windows? Will there be a prompt when I POST? Are there any good guides for reinstalling windows after I put a new motherboard?
thanks!
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Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows.
DBAN
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On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN
I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number.
Also, to add onto my original question, will a fixed vcore of 1.25 significantly shorten the lifespan of a 3570k? Typical temps on my 3570k before I had to scrap my old motherboard was 65-70C under load.
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On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number.
Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal.
Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing.
Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up.
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On September 23 2012 10:59 TheToast wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number. Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal. Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing. Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up.
Why should he not listen to me, when you just said the same things as I said?
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Not sure if anyone will be able to answer this.
Basically my old mouse died, I bought a g9x. Works great on my desk surface...
but doesnt work on my team liquid mousepad?! 
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On September 23 2012 11:15 Pusekatten wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 10:59 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number. Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal. Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing. Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up. Why should he not listen to me, when you just said the same things as I said?
You did not say the same thing as I did. You said he could either do a format from the Windows disc or from dban. They do not do the same thing, dban does a full wipe (w/ default options it even does several passes), whereas doing a "format" from the Windows 7 installer or a "quick format" from the XP installer only wipes out the partition tables from the MBR. Accomplishes the same thing (except without permantly making the data irrecoverable, which is uncessesary) without wasting a shit ton of read/writes.
Go read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partition_table
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_formatting
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On September 23 2012 11:25 TheToast wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 11:15 Pusekatten wrote:On September 23 2012 10:59 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number. Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal. Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing. Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up. Why should he not listen to me, when you just said the same things as I said? You did not say the same thing as I did. You said he could either do a format from the Windows disc or from dban. They do not do the same thing, dban does a full wipe (w/ default options it even does several passes), whereas doing a "format" from the Windows 7 installer or a "quick format" from the XP installer only wipes out the partition tables from the MBR. Accomplishes the same thing (except without permantly making the data irrecoverable, which is uncessesary) without wasting a shit ton of read/writes. Go read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partition_tablehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_formatting
I never said he could do a format from dban, I clearly said he could use it to wipe out his drive before doing a format.
The only reason I said he might want to do it is because some like to do it.
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On September 23 2012 11:39 Pusekatten wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 11:25 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 11:15 Pusekatten wrote:On September 23 2012 10:59 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number. Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal. Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing. Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up. Why should he not listen to me, when you just said the same things as I said? You did not say the same thing as I did. You said he could either do a format from the Windows disc or from dban. They do not do the same thing, dban does a full wipe (w/ default options it even does several passes), whereas doing a "format" from the Windows 7 installer or a "quick format" from the XP installer only wipes out the partition tables from the MBR. Accomplishes the same thing (except without permantly making the data irrecoverable, which is uncessesary) without wasting a shit ton of read/writes. Go read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partition_tablehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_formatting I never said he could do a format from dban, I clearly said he could use it to wipe out his drive before doing a format. The only reason I said he might want to do it is because some like to do it.
Yes, but that's just wasting a shit ton of read/writes on his SSD. Especially if he uses the default full wipe options that run like 5 passes. It's totally pointless.
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On September 23 2012 11:44 TheToast wrote:Show nested quote +On September 23 2012 11:39 Pusekatten wrote:On September 23 2012 11:25 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 11:15 Pusekatten wrote:On September 23 2012 10:59 TheToast wrote:On September 23 2012 10:39 Halure wrote:On September 23 2012 04:03 Pusekatten wrote:Halure, to answer your 2nd question. Boot from your windows CD, or the usb stick with the windows installation files on it. When you get to where you choose what drive you want the OS on, formate your SSD there. Or you could do a complete wipe the ssd using dban, then reinstall windows. DBAN I have heard that OEM copies of win7 have some sort of limitations to reinstalling with the same serial number... Something about having to call an automated Microsoft hotline to allow a reinstall with the same serial number. Um, no? The only question is whether your disc checks the hardware to see if it's genuine HP/Dell/etc. Then you might run into issues. I should also point out that running an OEM install on non-geniune HP/Dell/whatever hardware is technically illegal. Also, do not listen to Pusekatten. You do not need to dban the disc and should not since it's an SSD. You'd be wasting writes, and doing a full format offers no benefits unless you're trying to permanently destroy sensitive data.. If it's Windows 7, fter booting the Windows Install disc, choose Custom for the install options. Delete the existing partitions and then choose "format" and accept the new settings. This basically wipes out the existing partition table and creates a new one. Makes all the old data unreadable to windows and makes the OS think the disc is comepletely empty. As it writes new data it will wipe out the old. If the install is XP, choose the "quick format" option, does basically the same thing. Doing a full format is entirely pointless, using dban to wipe out the disc is even more pointless. SSD have limited read/writes on each bit, dbaning the disc is just using those up. Why should he not listen to me, when you just said the same things as I said? You did not say the same thing as I did. You said he could either do a format from the Windows disc or from dban. They do not do the same thing, dban does a full wipe (w/ default options it even does several passes), whereas doing a "format" from the Windows 7 installer or a "quick format" from the XP installer only wipes out the partition tables from the MBR. Accomplishes the same thing (except without permantly making the data irrecoverable, which is uncessesary) without wasting a shit ton of read/writes. Go read: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partition_tablehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_formatting I never said he could do a format from dban, I clearly said he could use it to wipe out his drive before doing a format. The only reason I said he might want to do it is because some like to do it. Yes, but that's just wasting a shit ton of read/writes on his SSD. Especially if he uses the default full wipe options that run like 5 passes. It's totally pointless.
Having a freshly fully wiped ssd could be nice, you wouldn't have to wait for TRIM to sort it all out initially ^.^
But yes, just a default normal format (not quick) is more than enough for a complete wipe, no need to be excessive with dban, it's pointless...
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Weird issue my parents have been having on their computer recently. Sometimes when you open up a new web browser window (this happens on both FireFox and IE) it just... doesn't open. It will usually open up on the 2nd or 3rd try just fine though.
When it does open up, there's nothing wrong. It just seems like periodically when you try to open a new window the process just kill itself immediately. I've had task manager open and the process literally disappears after a second or two and nothing happens when it occurs. Any ideas?
I replaced the PSU on this computer a few months ago, and it plays SC2 fine (albeit on low); I don't think it's a power issue. Some kind of malware maybe? I've also tried reinstalling the web browsers and nothing changes.
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Quick question. I keep my laptop on for several days straight sometimes purely so I can seed torrents to have a good seed/leech ratio. My laptop doesn't have any heating issues (even during games) and is plugged in the entire time. Is it particularly bad for the laptop if not that the battery in any way?
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On September 25 2012 11:39 Sovano wrote:
Quick question. I keep my laptop on for several days straight sometimes purely so I can seed torrents to have a good seed/leech ratio. My laptop doesn't have any heating issues (even during games) and is plugged in the entire time. Is it particularly bad for the laptop if not that the battery in any way?
No.
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what you have linked is a rad 7850 btw. and if youre just gaming then the short answer is no. (hell it could be be the other way around)
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EPT
