EPTI am changing mice, and each has it's own drivers/sesitivity settings that are not interchangeable. I want to find a way to keep as close to the sensitivity of my old mouse as possible. Somebody has got to have made a program that can help to do this easily. But I can't find anything.
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GWBuffalo
United States234 Posts
I am changing mice, and each has it's own drivers/sesitivity settings that are not interchangeable. I want to find a way to keep as close to the sensitivity of my old mouse as possible. Somebody has got to have made a program that can help to do this easily. But I can't find anything. | ||
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Medrea
10003 Posts
Just check the DPI of the mouse. The DPI is the only thing you should be altering because windows sensitivity is broken on all settings except for 6/11 | ||
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GWBuffalo
United States234 Posts
On September 21 2012 08:44 Medrea wrote: Mice use DPI (a bit of a misnomer) which is a standard of sensitivity. Just check the DPI of the mouse. The DPI is the only thing you should be altering because windows sensitivity is broken on all settings except for 6/11 The problem is that one of the mice doesn't use just DPI settings. I'm trying to move from a death adder to a Mionix Naos 5000. The Naos uses pure DPI. The deathadder has a few discrete DPI settings, but it also has a sensitivity slider bar. If I put the Naos and death adder at 1800 DPI and 6/11, the Naos is way, way faster. | ||
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Medrea
10003 Posts
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
But whenever I put it on windowed I get huge fps drops. But I stream just fine with "Screen Region". I can even stream with "Screen 'Starcraft 2' in process 'sc2.exe' ". twitch.tv/belial88. am i missing something here? i mean if it isn't broke dont fix it i guess :X | ||
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Halure
Canada26 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
Any idea whats wrong? | ||
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Fragile51
Netherlands15767 Posts
On September 18 2012 16:56 SpaceFighting wrote: oh yeah i knew it'd be enough but the every single store i can find is out of stock or sell it for 100+ X_X if there's something similar quality for around that price id probably go for that or just have to wait for stock for the antec. Keep in mind that although it might be enough right now, it could still be worth it to invest a bit more into the PSU so you won't have to buy a new one when you buy new parts later down the line. It could save you a lot of money in the long run. My PC right now (i5 2500k, one 7200 RPM HDD and a MSI 560TI twin frozr) should only need a 400 watt PSU and be completely fine but i bought an antec PSU rated at 650 watts just in case. I mean the price difference wasn't that big anyway, and it gives me the assurance that when i add additional parts down the line i don't need to buy a new expensive PSU altogether. | ||
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Sated
England4983 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 21 2012 16:54 Cyro wrote: I have an i7 950 and Gigabyte X58A-UD3R and ive ran at 166-200 bclk before, but now when i set to etc 165 bclk, it reads as 150-155 in CPU-Z and is extremely unstable regardless of voltages. 170 will instant bluescreen as "loading windows" pops up. I have adjusted vtt and vcore as well as tried auto vtt and some other settings, but i didnt have to do any of that before. I was trying to set low multipliers, 165 base clock 16 multi etc, so not pushing clock speeds or anything aside from the base clock itself, and i made sure uncore/ram and all the basics were not messed up in any obvious way too. The CPU is stable and fine at 160x24 and 1.264vcore with a max temp in the low 70's with regular usage, but the bclk behaivour seemed really odd to me and didnt seem like a common issue on google. Any idea whats wrong? Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. | ||
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djcube
United States985 Posts
1) What is the best graphics card that I can get for ~$250 and how much will it improve gaming performance? I'm mainly looking to play on max settings (on 1920x1080) for CS:GO, Borderlands 2, the new Assassin's Creed when it comes out and any new games for the next couple of years. 2) Will my CPU bottleneck my system for future games? I don't play any SC2, which is compute-heavy. | ||
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TheToast
United States4808 Posts
On September 21 2012 13:14 skyR wrote: Yes to every question. I think you missed some questions. On September 21 2012 13:13 Halure wrote: If I install a new motherboard that is completely different from my old motherboard into my system, will I have to reinstall windows and all of my drivers? If I have to reinstall windows, will I only have to format my boot drive (SSD) or will I have to reformat my data drive as well? If I don't have to reformat the data drive, could I just plug it back in after a fresh windows install with all of my previous data available? You don't have to, but you really should. You could use something like sysprep with a /generalize flag which is supposed to uninstall all installed system drivers, you could also uninstall them manually. But a fresh install of windows is the best answer for the best stability. You don't have to reformat the boot drive to reinstall windows. In fact you can install Windows over an existing install, but doing so screws up a lot of crap including IE. Basically don't do it. There is no reason at all to reformat your data drive. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 22 2012 05:07 TheToast wrote: I think you missed some questions. You don't have to, but you really should. You could use something like sysprep with a /generalize flag which is supposed to uninstall all installed system drivers, you could also uninstall them manually. But a fresh install of windows is the best answer for the best stability. You don't have to reformat the boot drive to reinstall windows. In fact you can install Windows over an existing install, but doing so screws up a lot of crap including IE. Basically don't do it. There is no reason at all to reformat your data drive. Well, technically, if you don't either reformat or re-index your secondary drive, depending on what's on there, you can cause BSODs on a fresh install of the same OS with even the same hardware. At least, going by the implied use of "data drive", where the alternative is the "boot drive", which implies some software installed on the "data drive". Although, frankly, I think we may both be a bit into tangent land for the average user's concerns. <3 Where you been hiding? Sign up for Doctor Who? Mafia. | ||
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TheToast
United States4808 Posts
On September 22 2012 05:14 JingleHell wrote: Well, technically, if you don't either reformat or re-index your secondary drive, depending on what's on there, you can cause BSODs on a fresh install of the same OS with even the same hardware. At least, going by the implied use of "data drive", where the alternative is the "boot drive", which implies some software installed on the "data drive". Although, frankly, I think we may both be a bit into tangent land for the average user's concerns. <3 Where you been hiding? Sign up for Doctor Who? Mafia. I've been really busy, job has been sucking up my life. The only reason I'm posting now is because I'm waiting on ghost to finish an image... Anyway, your correct if he's got software installed on that drive then he should reformat. I took "data drive" to mean a drive where he just keeps his crap (aka data). In which case nothing would need to be done with it. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 22 2012 05:29 TheToast wrote: I've been really busy, job has been sucking up my life. The only reason I'm posting now is because I'm waiting on ghost to finish an image... Anyway, your correct if he's got software installed on that drive then he should reformat. I took "data drive" to mean a drive where he just keeps his crap (aka data). In which case nothing would need to be done with it. Yeah, I'm kind of assuming that he actually just means secondary. I call my secondary a storage drive, even though it's got the majority of my software, just because I'm lazy, and storage is easier to type than secondary. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On September 21 2012 22:33 JingleHell wrote: Anecdotally, you should be running an odd multi, I've never found any "solid" confirmation, but I've seen tons and tons of rumors that odd multi is easier to run. Frankly, if you're just trying to jump to a setting, and it's not working, you should reset to stock, and work your way up, and see what's wrong. I'm sure there's people who could tell you what's probably wrong if you listed the specific bluescreen (I know there's lists out there, but it's been a while since I mucked with mine.) Long story short, shortcut on OC isn't working, do it properly. Try disabling HT and running the same settings. Try different clock/multi combos for same OC. Try the usual plethora of shit you'd try if you just got the chip, and ignore what you know or think you remember it running at before. I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 22 2012 06:30 Cyro wrote: I was running at only 2.64ghz with the 165 base clock, and everything else was down too, do you think having vcore at ~1.26 would cause instability like that? IIRC base clock and vcore was all i had over stock Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646 I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On September 22 2012 06:38 JingleHell wrote: Depends on the chip, depends on HT, depends on a lot of shit. http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=27646 I don't remember my BIOS settings off the top of my head, but you can check the relevant shit on my modsrigs there. But, that's all my rig, your results may vary. Like I said, according to lots of anecdotal evidence, odd number multis are easier to stabilize. But really, your best bet if you can't make it work on your old settings is to take it up from stock again. I know that's a pain in the ass, but unless you want to look up BSOD codes and do trial and error based off of other people's assessments of those, it's your best bet. Done some more testing. Reset to stock etc, tried various multis, stability is not the issue as much as 165 base clock literally reports and runs as 150 in CPU-Z regardless of settings as far as i can see | ||
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