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On October 28 2011 00:26 Cronosc2 wrote:Show nested quote +On October 27 2011 23:35 Puph wrote:On October 27 2011 16:13 Cronosc2 wrote:On October 27 2011 07:52 MisterFred wrote:
Should work fine. The only thing I'd think to note is that it only has 2 ram slots, so if for some bizarre reason you were thinking of doing 4x2gb ram in the future, that wouldn't work. so i should take 1 4gb stick ? :D:D 2x2gb is a bit outdated. Get a 1x4gb or 2x4gb. i'd go with 2x4gb, dirt cheap and will last you that much longer. May i suggest Mushkin or G.Skill? Won't cost you more than 60 bucks for enough ram to last you the rest of the decade lol so which way to go ? this http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=44319&agid=1192or http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=44321&agid=1193
first one (its the same one ive got :p)
you wont notice the difference between 1333 and 1600 so just save the money and get the cheaper one
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On October 28 2011 00:34 ThatGuy89 wrote:Show nested quote +On October 28 2011 00:26 Cronosc2 wrote:On October 27 2011 23:35 Puph wrote:On October 27 2011 16:13 Cronosc2 wrote:On October 27 2011 07:52 MisterFred wrote:
Should work fine. The only thing I'd think to note is that it only has 2 ram slots, so if for some bizarre reason you were thinking of doing 4x2gb ram in the future, that wouldn't work. so i should take 1 4gb stick ? :D:D 2x2gb is a bit outdated. Get a 1x4gb or 2x4gb. i'd go with 2x4gb, dirt cheap and will last you that much longer. May i suggest Mushkin or G.Skill? Won't cost you more than 60 bucks for enough ram to last you the rest of the decade lol so which way to go ? this http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=44319&agid=1192or http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=44321&agid=1193 first one (its the same one ive got :p) you wont notice the difference between 1333 and 1600 so just save the money and get the cheaper one
thanks :D
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Ok guys, this is my first time posting here. Anyways, this is the first time I have built a PC in a while. So here goes with the specifics.
Budget: $1,000 - $1,500
Resolution: I have a 21" Flat Panel Monitor, so maybe 1600 x 1200
Use: This would be for gaming, SC2, D3 whatever else I want.
Upgrade Cycle: 2+ years
Overclocking: Don't plan on overclocking
OS: Don't need an OS, will be using Windows 7
2 Graphics Cards: Don't plan on buying two unless its my best option
Place to Buy: I usually buy at NewEgg, but if there is a cheaper and better place I can buy from there.
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Just a quick question. One or two crossfire bridges for a dual 6870 setup? I've searched some forums but everyone's saying something different.
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I've been wondering this for a while, so what exactly would you guys say a small form factor (e.g. 5in x 10in x 12 in) PC tower would be worth in comparison to a standard-sized mid tower assuming the performance is perfectly equal?
Is it worth 50$, 100$, 200$, more? Is it worth nothing?
On October 28 2011 00:42 Avalanche-X wrote:
Ok guys, this is my first time posting here. Anyways, this is the first time I have built a PC in a while. So here goes with the specifics.
Budget: $1,000 - $1,500
Resolution: I have a 21" Flat Panel Monitor, so maybe 1600 x 1200
Use: This would be for gaming, SC2, D3 whatever else I want.
Upgrade Cycle: 2+ years
Overclocking: Don't plan on overclocking
OS: Don't need an OS, will be using Windows 7
2 Graphics Cards: Don't plan on buying two unless its my best option
Place to Buy: I usually buy at NewEgg, but if there is a cheaper and better place I can buy from there.
You're looking at a H61 mobo, i5 2400 or i3 2130(would fit this purpose great), 1333mhz ram either 4gb or 8gb, an affordable HDD(maybe even a 64 gb SSD and an external HD, only time I'll recommend this), cheapest DVD RW drive, and HD 6770, 6850, or 6870 depending on your quality requirements.
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On October 28 2011 01:50 Shikyo wrote:
I've been wondering this for a while, so what exactly would you guys say a small form factor (e.g. 5in x 10in x 12 in) PC tower would be worth in comparison to a standard-sized mid tower assuming the performance is perfectly equal?
Is it worth 50$, 100$, 200$, more? Is it worth nothing?
This is one of those subjective things, where the answer changes depending on who you ask. The answer depends on how valuable portability (and, I suppose, space) is to the person you ask. For me, probably around the range of $15. I don't go to LANs, but I suppose having the option could be used at some point. To someone wealthier than I who goes to LANs a lot, the answer may well be above $200, and actually the comparison to a laptop would be more important.
Unless you work for a company selling small form factor components, there's no real reason to ask that question.
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Can I get help selecting a new HDD for my build? The original one I was going to pick based on suggestions was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
Due to the flooding in Thailand, however, it seems newegg and ncix are having trouble replenishing stock in a timely fashion. Therefore, the HDD above is now out of stock. Comparable HDDs are costing as much as 100% more! Any suggestions on alternative ones to get? I was hoping to get a 1 TB drive with 7200 RPM, but I might be willing to go down (or even up) on storage capacity to get a better value for my money.
Thanks.
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You're either paying over $100 for a 1TB or around $70 for a 500GB. You don't really have a choice here... I would recommend picking up a SSD and dealing with the inconvenience in the meantime. Shouldn't be that big of a deal for a gamer...
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I just decided to go with a 2 TB, about 40 extra for double the storage when compared to 1 TB. Should last me awhile.
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Hey all I just wanted to know if all these parts would fit together in the case and of course with each other. I'm totally new here and just wanted to put together a rig for just under $700. I have a OS so thats not a problem, and with the core and motherboard I'm buying I wont be overclocking at all. The machine is probably only going to be used for gaming.
Part list permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/219y
Part price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/219y/by_merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Biostar H61MGC Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($56.97 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($22.99 @ NCIX US)
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.45 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1GB Video Card ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Corsair 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-222AB DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Hannspree HZ201DPB 20.0" Monitor ($108.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $620.34
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2011-10-27 18:01 EDT-0400)
Anything anyone wants to add feel free, and thank you.
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On October 28 2011 00:42 Avalanche-X wrote:
Ok guys, this is my first time posting here. Anyways, this is the first time I have built a PC in a while. So here goes with the specifics.
Budget: $1,000 - $1,500
Resolution: I have a 21" Flat Panel Monitor, so maybe 1600 x 1200
Use: This would be for gaming, SC2, D3 whatever else I want.
Upgrade Cycle: 2+ years
Overclocking: Don't plan on overclocking
OS: Don't need an OS, will be using Windows 7
2 Graphics Cards: Don't plan on buying two unless its my best option
Place to Buy: I usually buy at NewEgg, but if there is a cheaper and better place I can buy from there.
I'll take a stab at it. Keep in mind after reviewing my list of components that it is common for more expert posters to point out some error or deal I missed afterwards, so you probably want to wait for that  .
CPU: i5-2500 - $195 w/promo code EMCJKHE24
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
+ Show Spoiler +An i7 will bring you essentially no benefit. If you wanted to overclock, an i5-2500k http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072would cost $215. The i5-2500k overclocked is probably more bang for the buck. But it's also more buck, requiring a more expensive Mobo and after-market heatsink (~$30).
Mobo: ASRock H61M/U3S3 - $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236
+ Show Spoiler +
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 560 Ti - $220
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125401
This card also comes with a coupon for the new Batman game, if you were looking forward to that.
+ Show Spoiler +This should be able to current-gen games at max on your resolution. If you were to upgrade to a 1920x1080 monitor, it should run games at high-to-max settings depending on the game. If you double check your resolution to make sure it's under 1920x1080 you could probably save some money and near-max stuff with a Radeon 6870 ($170 w/promo code SAP687CT11): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102948.
RAM: G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) - $35
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422
+ Show Spoiler +
PSU: Antec NEO ECO 520C - $55
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371030
+ Show Spoiler +
DVD: ASUS DVD Writer - $18
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=49597&vpn=DRW-24B1ST Bulk&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1316
+ Show Spoiler +A tad cheaper than on newegg, and you may as well order from two websites, since the storage prices on us.NCIX seem to be cheaper right now.
SSD: Kingston HyperX 120GB - $180
http://us.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=63090&promoid=1316
+ Show Spoiler +SSDs improve hard drive access time, which cuts down on things like windows startup time and loading screens for new levels, maps, etc in games (more useful for single player). In general, you put your most used programs & windows on the SSD, and the rest of your stuff (other programs, MP3s, porn collection) on a regular hard drive. Mostly, this forum has recommended Crucial SSDs for reliability, but Sandforce (the type above) is supposed to have fixed the bug that was plaguing them. Make sure to update to the latest firmware. A smaller drive might also be sufficient (speedy 64gb @ $120): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148447 . If you got the Kingston linked outside the spoiler, you'd need a SATA cable to connect it (mobo comes with 2, used by DVD drive and hard drive) ($2): http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=28881&vpn=SC3-18-BL&manufacture=Mod/Smart
Hard Drive: Western Digital 2TB Caviar Green - $90
http://us.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=62047
+ Show Spoiler +No, you probably don't need 2TB of storage. But this is actually cheaper than any other 1TB or greater hard drive right now, so why not? You could save roughly $20 by looking for a 500gb hard drive if you wanted to. If you decide not to get an SSD, you would want a different hard drive (one with 7200 RPM, so it's a bit faster access times than this 5400 RPM drive.)
Case: Coolermaster Haf 912 - $56
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55583&vpn=RC-912-KKN1&manufacture=COOLERMASTER
+ Show Spoiler +An inexpensive case that doesn't suck. Feel free to look around for a different one you prefer for looks or whatever reason.
Total cost (non-overclocking) recommended build: ~ $935 Without giant monitors, overclocking, or looking into peripherals, I don't see much reason to spend more. There's also some places to shave a few $ if you wanted to (smaller SSD, etc).
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On October 28 2011 07:09 attackthisBOOM wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hey all I just wanted to know if all these parts would fit together in the case and of course with each other. I'm totally new here and just wanted to put together a rig for just under $700. I have a OS so thats not a problem, and with the core and motherboard I'm buying I wont be overclocking at all. The machine is probably only going to be used for gaming. Part list permalink: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/219yPart price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/219y/by_merchantCPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter) Motherboard: Biostar H61MGC Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($56.97 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($22.99 @ NCIX US) Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($43.45 @ NCIX US) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1GB Video Card ($124.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Microcenter) Power Supply: Corsair 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Samsung SH-222AB DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Hannspree HZ201DPB 20.0" Monitor ($108.98 @ Newegg) Total: $620.34 (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) (Generated 2011-10-27 18:01 EDT-0400) Anything anyone wants to add feel free, and thank you.
HDD is out of stock so you'll need to pick a new one.
XFX Core Edition 450 for $30 is a better purchase than the CX500 since it provides the same amount of power on the 12v rail, it's slightly higher in quality, comes with a longer warranty, not to mention it's less expensive since you're factoring in money you don't have: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63238&promoid=1316
DVD burner is a dollar less expensive and free shipping at NCIX: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60344&&promoid=1316
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5930 Posts
On October 28 2011 01:50 Shikyo wrote:
I've been wondering this for a while, so what exactly would you guys say a small form factor (e.g. 5in x 10in x 12 in) PC tower would be worth in comparison to a standard-sized mid tower assuming the performance is perfectly equal?
Is it worth 50$, 100$, 200$, more? Is it worth nothing?
Same price for raw hardware + how much the case/power supply/CPU cooler you want to use costs. So you have the typical hardware costs and add around $~200. Why $200? Because most good mITX cases are $100, most good mITX CPU coolers are like $60-100, and most good PSUs need to be of a smaller form factor than typical ATX spec or modular.
This is assuming you're going mITX and not mATX. If mATX, there shouldn't be any price difference whatsoever, everyone should be getting mATX motherboards anyway.
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An upgrade-build for my grandparents pc:
Usage: Basic video editing(Moviemaker) and internetbrowsing.
Budget: 500Euro.
Upgradecycle: As long as possible. Q1
Current parts:
Case: MicroATX case
PSU: 400W Q2
PCU: Athlon XP
RAM: 2x1GB Ram,
HDD: 200GB IDE
GPU: Raedon 9000series
MOBO: Mindfuck hybrid thingy that supports Intel and AMD (2 PCU slots, 2 sets of RAMslots)
OS:Win XP
Planning to buy:
MOBO: Asus P8H67-M Pro Rev 3.0(B3) Sockel 1155
Reasoning:
Intel -> onboard(in-cpu) gpu is industry standard(biggest market share), driversupport will last longer, less powerconsumption/heat developement
SATA3/SATA2 and IDE support -> no need to migrate Data from old 200GB IDE
4 ram slots -> upgrade ram when software to come demands more
Price: 77,31€ with tax 92,00€ Q3
RAM: Kingston KVR1333D3S9/8G CL9 204pin (2x4GB)
Reasoning:
Dualchannel -> profits Videoediting
Not 2x2GB -> reduce max RAM by 4GB, cheap atm
Price: ?? with tax 58,00€ Q3
CPU/GPU: Intel I5-2500(K)
Reasoning:
(K)-model -> includes HD3000 instead of HD2000
Price: 176,47€ with tax 210,00€ Q3
SSD: OCZ Vertex 3 Series VTX3-25SAT3-60GB SATA3
Reasoning:
only for win7, Thai
Price: 98,32€ with tax 117€ Q3
OS: Win7 Home Premium 64bit
Reasoning:
Grandpa -> buys hardware gadgets often, don't want to waste MY lifetime by figuring out how to run them under Linux
Price: 80,67€ with tax 96€ Q3
Price with taxes 573€ Q4
Q5
Q1: Is it realistic to assume that this will last for 10 years?
Q2: Will 400W be sufficient?
Q3: Are the prices reasonable or should I look for another Retailer, or try to bargain?
Q4: Where could I make cuts?
Q5: Please share if you got information that suggest different reasoning, see flaws in reasoning.
edit: switched HDD with SDD due to Thai
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The parts will probably fail individually at certain points within that 10 year span, and it will be ungodly slow by then. I think it's fairly unrealistic to assume it will last for 10 years and have decent utility. Sure, there are computers still working now from 2001, but they are abysmal by today's standards and shouldn't be anyone's "main" computer, imo, even if it's only for basic needs. Not to mention hard drives back then barely could store any data by today's standards and file sizes.
The SSD will almost certainly fail given many are having issues already, and I don't believe their life expectancy is anywhere near 10 years.
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On October 28 2011 10:33 xmxm2009 wrote:
why would you quote him
why arnt you banned?
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Why are you quoting to help him advertise?
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EPT
