EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 584
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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Pwnographics
New Zealand1097 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4529/corsair-obsidian-650d-transmuting-graphite-to-obsidian/5 The HAF X fans are all running fairly slow and shouldn't be too loud, but there are a lot of them and the case is even more wide open, so it will do an even worse job of keeping noise of internal components trapped inside the case. Hard to say. Both are not good picks for low noise, but you can make just about anything work by choosing the right internal components and doing some extra fan speed control on the chassis fans or replacing those. It's not worth bothering in general though; may as well start from a different case to begin with. | ||
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Pwnographics
New Zealand1097 Posts
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
On September 20 2011 23:25 Pwnographics wrote: I was wondering which would be a quieter case, the Corsair 650D or the HAF X considering the Corsair 650D has variable fan speeds. This is a video review of Haf X and you can hear the cooling around 6min 4s -> Couldn't find a video for 650D stock cooling but you can probably find one on youtube if you search hard enough. Btw for a silent case in that price range you could try Lian Li PC-B10 | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
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Pwnographics
New Zealand1097 Posts
On September 21 2011 00:05 Myrmidon wrote: What's going in the case? How much do you care about noise? How important is cooling (you don't need that much unless you're going for hardcore overclocks)? Preferences on looks? Aesthetics: No preference on looks. Cooling: Cooling would be nice so that my GPU fan (ASUS 6970) doesn't start blasting away. Sound: Hopefully close to inaudible. What's going in? : -i5-2500K O.C 4.5Ghz -H80 or similar cooler (I've heard H80 is hella loud). -ASUS 6970. -Caivar Green -SSD. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
*edit: and I mean the pump is loud, so there's nothing you can do about it, unlike an air cooler, where you can use a different fan or different fan speed control. Maybe Gelid Tranquillo? I'm not sure. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426023 You should look at the Antec P183 (price has come down a bit) or maybe Fractal Design R3. The latter is cheaper in both senses, but it gives you the option of a few more fan vents if cooling at the stock config is not enough. For example, it might be better to move the front intake to the side panel, or get an extra fan for the side, to directly feed air to the HD 6970. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129174 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352004 | ||
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Shikyo
Finland33997 Posts
On September 21 2011 00:09 Pwnographics wrote: Aesthetics: No preference on looks. Cooling: Cooling would be nice so that my GPU fan (ASUS 6970) doesn't start blasting away. Sound: Hopefully close to inaudible. What's going in? : -i5-2500K O.C 4.5Ghz -H80 or similar cooler (I've heard H80 is hella loud). -ASUS 6970. -Caivar Green -SSD. Oh it's confusing that you mentioned the variable fan speeds as that doesn't matter at all when you can't hear any stock cooling over a 6970 and a CPU cooler. Try Lian Li PC-B10 as I said, it should be decently quiet in that price range. EDIT: Okay nevermind not that quiet until you get fan controls and stuff -_- | ||
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b_unnies
3579 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 21 2011 01:07 b_unnies wrote: how do i go about finding a reliable guide on assembling a computer online Youtube or any major tech website. This is probably the best visual one unless there's a newer one that I haven't come across: + Show Spoiler + | ||
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b_unnies
3579 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 21 2011 01:49 b_unnies wrote: thanks for that video. if this is my first build is it worth learning how to overclock or should i not worry about that yet Whether you should overclock or not should be / have been decided before the purchase of your components. An H61 / H67 motherboard does not allow for overclocking and a non-K suffix processor has a limited multiplier increase of four so this isn't really "real" overclocking. For overclocking, you need a P67 or Z68 motherboard along with a K suffix processor (ex. core i5 2500k). I'm assuming you have a Sandybridge of some sort or else you've made a somewhat poor decision to build on an outdated platform. | ||
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b_unnies
3579 Posts
i5 2500k asus p8p67 pro corsair 8gb ddr3 corsair tx650 v2 msi gtx 460 cooler master hyper 212+ fan (also bought an artic silver 5 thermal paste) costs $540.93 (gtx 460 i already own, everything else should arrive today) i already plan to overclock (i plan on 4.5ghz not sure how easy it is for someone with no OC knowledge), but i wanted to know if i should do it now or wait a few days to see if there are any problems with components before i start learning how to OC | ||
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HungrySC2
United States191 Posts
What is your budget? ~ $600. No mouse keyboard. Possibly a monitor however decent used monitors seem fairly easy to find. What is your resolution? I've only used a laptop for gaming so far. Resolution was 1280x720. On a 15.4". I would prefer to keep the monitor on the smaller side 17-21". Also I would like to switch from 16 : 9 to 4:3. 1280x960 or possibly 1600x1200 IF possible. What are you using it for? I would like to play sc2 and future expansions on lowish graphics, but stream at decent/good quality without negative affects on game-play etc. I will continue to use my laptop for other functions. What is your upgrade cycle? I would prefer this computer to last a few years. 2 years + would be nice? When do you plan on building it? ASAP Do you plan on overclocking? Only if necessary, but preferably not. Decent stream quality and smooth/responsive game-play (no lag, spikes, etc.) are the priorities. Game graphics settings aren't the priority. Do you need an Operating System? Most likely, but possibly not. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? The short answer No. However it might be nice to have the flexibility to do so later on. Or if the build we come up has 2 GPU etc. Where are you buying your parts from? Online? I'm in North Dakota. Not much out here as far as buying computer parts goes. | ||
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Kinetik_Inferno
United States1431 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:56 Womwomwom wrote: + Show Spoiler + Overdrive is basically supercharing a LCD panel so it gets better response times. You know those monitors that say that they have 2ms response times? They've been overdriven. Now overdrive requires circuitry to achieve its rated speeds, which will increase the input lag amongst other things. If you do it *correctly*, you will get a panel that doesn't ghost yet doesn't feel sluggish. If you overdrive too heavily, you can add a bit of input lag as well as reverse ghosting - reverse ghosting looks far worse than blur/ghosting, trust me on this. In the LCD world, there are a wide range of panel technologies to tackle different needs: IPS, TN, VA, and PLS are the most common. iMacs and iPads will have IPS panels, because of great viewing angles, while Sony Bravia TVs will be using VA panels, due to the best blacks amongst all LCD technologies. Samsung's professional lineup consists of two panel types: VA and PLS. VA panels have the deepest blacks and possibly the best image quality but they are the least responsive out of all of the technologies available. In fact, avoid all VA panels unless you need a monitor where you won't play games on. Samsung's overdrive for these VA monitors not only is insufficent, it also seems to introduce a large amount of input lag so don't get them if you are going to game on them; Samsung's PLS professional monitors seems to have awful backlight bleed and panel uniformity so basically some areas on the monitor will be brighter than others and blacks will appear grey. Other than avoid Samsung's rather rubbish professional lineup, it doesn't matter who you buy your monitor from. What is important is, in no real order: 1) Panel type. IPS is the most expensive while TN is the least. As Skyr says, go into a store and take a look at the IPS and TN monitors on display and see which one you prefer/like better. Reading reviews doesn't really help because everyone is different. For instance, I absolutely cannot stand the anti-glare coating on IPS panels yet I like the glossy vanity mirror on Apple computers. 2) Warranty services. This is important, especially if the monitor is extremely expensive. Do not overlook this, especially if you are buying an IPS monitor. Dell and HP business monitors have extremely generous warranty services so do not pick some LG or Asus IPS monitor even if it is cheaper by $50. 3) Application of major feature set. Viewsonic, for example, has a 1ms monitor but to achieve those speeds, it needs to apply heavy overdrive. This heavy overdrive is incorrectly applied and introduces a lot of reverse ghosting. 4) Feature set YOU want. If you do not need/want composite inputs, do not get a monitor with composite inputs. The more connections it has, the more input lag it is likely to have. A lot of monitors these days have a game mode to bypass a lot of the internal circuitry to decrease input lag so this isn't so important these days. 5) Price. I found this monitor, and it seems pretty good. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176141 The one thing that stands out, to me at least, is that it doesn't have HDMI. Is this a huge deal? I'm going to be streaming, playing, casting, and uploading games. I'm also going to be doing video and sound editing too. Am I going to need HDMI? Are there any glaring flaws with the monitor otherwise? Oh, I forgot to mention, it has most of the features I want. It doesn't appear to be heavily overdriven and I like the anti-glare on monitors. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 21 2011 02:06 HungrySC2 wrote:+ Show Spoiler + This is my first build... and I am not current... so try to help me out in that regard. What is your budget? ~ $600. No mouse keyboard. Possibly a monitor however decent used monitors seem fairly easy to find. What is your resolution? I've only used a laptop for gaming so far. Resolution was 1280x720. On a 15.4". I would prefer to keep the monitor on the smaller side 17-21". Also I would like to switch from 16 : 9 to 4:3. 1280x960 or possibly 1600x1200 IF possible. What are you using it for? I would like to play sc2 and future expansions on lowish graphics, but stream at decent/good quality without negative affects on game-play etc. I will continue to use my laptop for other functions. What is your upgrade cycle? I would prefer this computer to last a few years. 2 years + would be nice? When do you plan on building it? ASAP Do you plan on overclocking? Only if necessary, but preferably not. Decent stream quality and smooth/responsive game-play (no lag, spikes, etc.) are the priorities. Game graphics settings aren't the priority. Do you need an Operating System? Most likely, but possibly not. Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire? The short answer No. However it might be nice to have the flexibility to do so later on. Or if the build we come up has 2 GPU etc. Where are you buying your parts from? Online? I'm in North Dakota. Not much out here as far as buying computer parts goes. This configuration totals to $560 before mail in rebates and shipping. If you can get Windows elsewhere, that's about $90 off the total. And no there is no possible way you can have the possibility of adding a second GPU, that's simply out of your budget and makes no sense at all. A multi-GPU configuration isn't even recommended for higher budgets because of performance inconsistencies, power consumption, and heat. Intel Core i5 2400 & Windows 7 Home Premium x64 @ $277 http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723031 XFX GT 240 @ $55 ($30 after mail in rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150553 Asrock H61M-VS @ $55 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157241 GSkill 2x4GB 1333MHz @ $41 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231424 Xigmatek Asgard II @ $30 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811815005 Hitachi 500gb @ $40 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145299 Corsair CX430 V2 @ $45 ($35 after mail in rebate) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139026 DVD Burner @ $17 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238 On September 21 2011 02:02 b_unnies wrote:+ Show Spoiler + the build i bought is pretty much the same as i posted a couple weeks back with a couple revisions based on newegg pricing i5 2500k asus p8p67 pro corsair 8gb ddr3 corsair tx650 v2 msi gtx 460 cooler master hyper 212+ fan (also bought an artic silver 5 thermal paste) costs $540.93 (gtx 460 i already own, everything else should arrive today) i already plan to overclock (i plan on 4.5ghz not sure how easy it is for someone with no OC knowledge), but i wanted to know if i should do it now or wait a few days to see if there are any problems with components before i start learning how to OC This is up to you. Some people do it right away while others install everything, stress test it at stock, and leave it running for a couple days to see if any unexpected problems come up before doing so. Personally, I would wait a week or so before beginning to overclock. On September 21 2011 02:06 Kinetik_Inferno wrote:+ Show Spoiler + On September 20 2011 10:56 Womwomwom wrote: + Show Spoiler + Overdrive is basically supercharing a LCD panel so it gets better response times. You know those monitors that say that they have 2ms response times? They've been overdriven. Now overdrive requires circuitry to achieve its rated speeds, which will increase the input lag amongst other things. If you do it *correctly*, you will get a panel that doesn't ghost yet doesn't feel sluggish. If you overdrive too heavily, you can add a bit of input lag as well as reverse ghosting - reverse ghosting looks far worse than blur/ghosting, trust me on this. In the LCD world, there are a wide range of panel technologies to tackle different needs: IPS, TN, VA, and PLS are the most common. iMacs and iPads will have IPS panels, because of great viewing angles, while Sony Bravia TVs will be using VA panels, due to the best blacks amongst all LCD technologies. Samsung's professional lineup consists of two panel types: VA and PLS. VA panels have the deepest blacks and possibly the best image quality but they are the least responsive out of all of the technologies available. In fact, avoid all VA panels unless you need a monitor where you won't play games on. Samsung's overdrive for these VA monitors not only is insufficent, it also seems to introduce a large amount of input lag so don't get them if you are going to game on them; Samsung's PLS professional monitors seems to have awful backlight bleed and panel uniformity so basically some areas on the monitor will be brighter than others and blacks will appear grey. Other than avoid Samsung's rather rubbish professional lineup, it doesn't matter who you buy your monitor from. What is important is, in no real order: 1) Panel type. IPS is the most expensive while TN is the least. As Skyr says, go into a store and take a look at the IPS and TN monitors on display and see which one you prefer/like better. Reading reviews doesn't really help because everyone is different. For instance, I absolutely cannot stand the anti-glare coating on IPS panels yet I like the glossy vanity mirror on Apple computers. 2) Warranty services. This is important, especially if the monitor is extremely expensive. Do not overlook this, especially if you are buying an IPS monitor. Dell and HP business monitors have extremely generous warranty services so do not pick some LG or Asus IPS monitor even if it is cheaper by $50. 3) Application of major feature set. Viewsonic, for example, has a 1ms monitor but to achieve those speeds, it needs to apply heavy overdrive. This heavy overdrive is incorrectly applied and introduces a lot of reverse ghosting. 4) Feature set YOU want. If you do not need/want composite inputs, do not get a monitor with composite inputs. The more connections it has, the more input lag it is likely to have. A lot of monitors these days have a game mode to bypass a lot of the internal circuitry to decrease input lag so this isn't so important these days. 5) Price. I found this monitor, and it seems pretty good. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176141 The one thing that stands out, to me at least, is that it doesn't have HDMI. Is this a huge deal? I'm going to be streaming, playing, casting, and uploading games. I'm also going to be doing video and sound editing too. Am I going to need HDMI? Are there any glaring flaws with the monitor otherwise? Oh, I forgot to mention, it has most of the features I want. It doesn't appear to be heavily overdriven and I like the anti-glare on monitors. Only you can answer whether you need an HDMI port or not. Keep in mind it's just DVI with sound. | ||
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Wabbit
United States1028 Posts
On September 21 2011 02:06 HungrySC2 wrote: I've only used a laptop for gaming so far. Resolution was 1280x720. On a 15.4". I would prefer to keep the monitor on the smaller side 17-21". Also I would like to switch from 16 : 9 to 4:3. 1280x960 or possibly 1600x1200 IF possible. Most things these days are optimized for 16 : 9, 16 : 10 can work too. If you're at all serious about SC2, you are pretty much forced to use 16 : 9 - otherwise you are putting yourself at a disadvantage, as the other aspect ratios pretty much just crop a 16 : 9 image: http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=112931#20 Additional Comment: skyR's choice of the GT 240 is a great bang-for-the-buck, especially at low graphics + low rez. If, however, you think you want to play at Medium and/or higher than 1366x768 or so, you probably want to step up a bit. This recertified GTS 450 is a great deal, not sure how you feel about buying a re-certified card though: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133403 Edit: this GTS 250 is a good in-between. | ||
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ensign_lee
United States1178 Posts
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371029 - cheaper, and no rebates required. {edit: ram sold out. nevermind on that} | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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ensign_lee
United States1178 Posts
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