EPTOn September 20 2011 07:39 Kinetik_Inferno wrote:
What's the most reliable (and in your opinion, best) brand of monitors?
What's the most reliable (and in your opinion, best) brand of monitors?
Apple, Nec, Dell
Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 582
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Apple, Nec, Dell | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Because the panels pretty much come from one source, the quality isn't going to be significantly different (if at all). I'd stay away from Samsung's professional lineup because their PLS panels have god awful quality control and their cVA panels tend to have poorly applied overdrive. As for everyone else, who cares they're all the same. | ||
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Madoga
Netherlands471 Posts
On September 20 2011 02:53 Thorakh wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Thanks a lot for all of your help, my build looks like this now: Total cost: - 983,82 (All prices are in Euros) CPU: Intel Processor Core i5-2500, s1155 - 171,98 (or an i7-2600 for 254,98 if I have money to spare (and feel like wasting it)) GPU: Asus Radeon 6970 DCII,2GB - 315,98 RAM: Corsair Memory XMS3 DDR3,1333-8GB KIT - 40,98 SSD: Crucial Solid State Drive m4 - 128GB - 2.5inch - 163,98 HDD: Samsung Hard Disk Spinpoint EcoGreen F4 - 2TB - 62,98 Optical Drive: Samsung DVD-ROM 16X,SATA - 18,99 Motherboard: Asus P8H67 B3,s1155 - 107,98 PSU: Corsair CX 500WATT V2 - 53,98 Case: ? - <=70,00 for the case this is a decent That case has shitty availability at this retailer, sadly. Cases aren't that important, are they? I'll just pick an available one at the store.http://www.mycom.nl/Product/Componenten-Behuizing/Cooler-Master-HAF-912-PLUS/293860 As the total cost is 983,82, I still have plenty of money to spare for a copy of Windows 7 and any other component I forgot or want. The motherboard has integrated sound so you don't need a discrete card for it unless you know why you would need / want one. Ah, okay.You also can get away with the stock cooler since you aren't overclocking. Stock cooling? I was under the impression that fans and other cooling should be bought seperately.Please dont buy at mycom. They have such a limited sellection of parts + other shops are cheaper. i5 2500 Asrock h61m u3s3 Crucial m4 128 gb Dvd/RW Samsung ecogreen 2gb 8gb cl9 1333 mhz ram 6970 Huntkey jumper 550W Case (80-90 euro) ~960 euro at Zercom If you replace the PSU with an xfx core 550W its ~960 euro at Azerty, Alternate and a 100 other stores which are cheaper than mycom + have better service. | ||
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Kinetik_Inferno
United States1431 Posts
On September 20 2011 08:19 Womwomwom wrote: Professional monitors wise, I tend to lean towards HP and Apple (lol nope sorry Thunderbolt these days sorry PC scrubs) because they tend to add the bare minimum connections, thus making their input lag the least. They also offer better warranty service than Asus, LG, and Friends will. Because the panels pretty much come from one source, the quality isn't going to be significantly different (if at all). I'd stay away from Samsung's professional lineup because their PLS panels have god awful quality control and their cVA panels tend to have poorly applied overdrive. As for everyone else, who cares they're all the same. What does that mean? What should I look for in a monitor? I know what resolution I want to get but after that, and narrowing it down to the brands you and skyr posted, what else should I factor into my decision? | ||
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Shew
United States460 Posts
finally got my parts and everything, put it together, wired it properly etc, but it's not turning on.... any ideas ? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Is the power supply switch in the 1 position? Is the 24pin and 8pin connected to the motherboard? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:14 Shew wrote: so, finally got my parts and everything, put it together, wired it properly etc, but it's not turning on.... any ideas ? My idea would be posting some more information. Oh, and did you install motherboard standoffs? The little screws inside the case that you mount your motherboard on? And if so, are they only under screw holes in the motherboard? Are you sure you hooked up both the 24pin PSU cable to the motherboard, and the 4/8 CPU power by the CPU socket? Bah, ninjad. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 20 2011 09:59 Kinetik_Inferno wrote: What does that mean? What should I look for in a monitor? I know what resolution I want to get but after that, and narrowing it down to the brands you and skyr posted, what else should I factor into my decision? There isn't anything you look for in a monitor besides the size (pixel density), resolution, and the panel type. Once you've made your decision on these three, you either go to the store and look at them yourself and/or read reviews online (ex. www.tftcentral.co.uk - primarily professional displays that we're referring to when we say Apple, HP, Nec, and Dell). | ||
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Shew
United States460 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:15 JingleHell wrote: My idea would be posting some more information. Oh, and did you install motherboard standoffs? The little screws inside the case that you mount your motherboard on? And if so, are they only under screw holes in the motherboard? Are you sure you hooked up both the 24pin PSU cable to the motherboard, and the 4/8 CPU power by the CPU socket? Bah, ninjad. i didn't know what motherboard standoffs are :O Can those really be the case? they are those screws that look like u can put a screw in the top of them yes? and i put both the 4 pin cpu power and the 24 pin in | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:19 Shew wrote: i didn't know what motherboard standoffs are :O Can those really be the case? they are those screws that look like u can put a screw in the top of them yes? and i put both the 4 pin cpu power and the 24 pin in Yes, they're the screws you can put a screw in. That's what they're for. Keep the motherboard from shorting on the case. | ||
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Shew
United States460 Posts
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:20 Shew wrote: if i didn't use the standoffs that were given me by the case did i possibly short circuit my mobo? It's shorted, but it usually doesn't cause any harm. Just refuses to start. At least, last time I did that, it was the case. Don't build PC's drunk at 2AM. Just take the mobo out and mount it on standoffs. And only put standoffs under screw holes in the mobo. | ||
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Shew
United States460 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:20 JingleHell wrote: It's shorted, but it usually doesn't cause any harm. Just refuses to start. At least, last time I did that, it was the case. Don't build PC's drunk at 2AM. Just take the mobo out and mount it on standoffs. And only put standoffs under screw holes in the mobo. So do i have to go buy a new one now? | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
Not usually. Just remove it, put in the standoffs, and put it back in and try again. | ||
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Kinetik_Inferno
United States1431 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:18 skyR wrote: There isn't anything you look for in a monitor besides the size (pixel density), resolution, and the panel type. Once you've made your decision on these three, you either go to the store and look at them yourself and/or read reviews online (ex. www.tftcentral.co.uk - primarily professional displays that we're referring to when we say Apple, HP, Nec, and Dell). What are the three highest monitor resolutions currently available for monitors? Pixel density is measured in PPI, right? Does panel type mean that it's an anti-glare panel, glossy screen, polarized, etc? | ||
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Shew
United States460 Posts
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rv238
United States24 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On September 20 2011 10:52 rv238 wrote: hey guy will 6950 and i5 2500k be powered by 620w seasonic psu with some overclocking room Yes, easily. | ||
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Legatus Lanius
2135 Posts
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On September 20 2011 09:59 Kinetik_Inferno wrote: What does that mean? What should I look for in a monitor? I know what resolution I want to get but after that, and narrowing it down to the brands you and skyr posted, what else should I factor into my decision? Overdrive is basically supercharing a LCD panel so it gets better response times. You know those monitors that say that they have 2ms response times? They've been overdriven. Now overdrive requires circuitry to achieve its rated speeds, which will increase the input lag amongst other things. If you do it *correctly*, you will get a panel that doesn't ghost yet doesn't feel sluggish. If you overdrive too heavily, you can add a bit of input lag as well as reverse ghosting - reverse ghosting looks far worse than blur/ghosting, trust me on this. In the LCD world, there are a wide range of panel technologies to tackle different needs: IPS, TN, VA, and PLS are the most common. iMacs and iPads will have IPS panels, because of great viewing angles, while Sony Bravia TVs will be using VA panels, due to the best blacks amongst all LCD technologies. Samsung's professional lineup consists of two panel types: VA and PLS. VA panels have the deepest blacks and possibly the best image quality but they are the least responsive out of all of the technologies available. In fact, avoid all VA panels unless you need a monitor where you won't play games on. Samsung's overdrive for these VA monitors not only is insufficent, it also seems to introduce a large amount of input lag so don't get them if you are going to game on them; Samsung's PLS professional monitors seems to have awful backlight bleed and panel uniformity so basically some areas on the monitor will be brighter than others and blacks will appear grey. Other than avoid Samsung's rather rubbish professional lineup, it doesn't matter who you buy your monitor from. What is important is, in no real order: 1) Panel type. IPS is the most expensive while TN is the least. As Skyr says, go into a store and take a look at the IPS and TN monitors on display and see which one you prefer/like better. Reading reviews doesn't really help because everyone is different. For instance, I absolutely cannot stand the anti-glare coating on IPS panels yet I like the glossy vanity mirror on Apple computers. 2) Warranty services. This is important, especially if the monitor is extremely expensive. Do not overlook this, especially if you are buying an IPS monitor. Dell and HP business monitors have extremely generous warranty services so do not pick some LG or Asus IPS monitor even if it is cheaper by $50. 3) Application of major feature set. Viewsonic, for example, has a 1ms monitor but to achieve those speeds, it needs to apply heavy overdrive. This heavy overdrive is incorrectly applied and introduces a lot of reverse ghosting. 4) Feature set YOU want. If you do not need/want composite inputs, do not get a monitor with composite inputs. The more connections it has, the more input lag it is likely to have. A lot of monitors these days have a game mode to bypass a lot of the internal circuitry to decrease input lag so this isn't so important these days. 5) Price. | ||
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