|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
+ Show Spoiler +1. You have a huge budget. How do you value price/performance once you start getting to the point where you're paying 25% more for 8% more performance?
2. What games do you plan on playing?
EDIT: 3. Also, just to confirm, are you currently in the U.S. or Canada? Just for pricing purposes on newegg.com or newegg.ca if there's a difference. Also, Newegg will have new deals tomorrow night/Thursday morning, so wait until then at least for a build :D
Sorry I should have elaborated a bit more on the budget. I left it pretty open, but I was initially expecting to only spend 1400-1600 on everything. As far as the price/performance question goes, it's hard to say. I'd probably be okay with 25% for 8% trade in some cases, but I think I'd need some specific examples.
I play MMO's a lot, and Elder scrolls online definitely has my eye. I mostly just want the ability to be able to play games new and upcoming games at high or max settings.
I live in Canada.
|
On February 27 2013 14:50 Darkice89 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +1. You have a huge budget. How do you value price/performance once you start getting to the point where you're paying 25% more for 8% more performance?
2. What games do you plan on playing?
EDIT: 3. Also, just to confirm, are you currently in the U.S. or Canada? Just for pricing purposes on newegg.com or newegg.ca if there's a difference. Also, Newegg will have new deals tomorrow night/Thursday morning, so wait until then at least for a build :D Sorry I should have elaborated a bit more on the budget. I left it pretty open, but I was initially expecting to only spend 1400-1600 on everything. As far as the price/performance question goes, it's hard to say. I'd probably be okay with 25% for 8% trade in some cases, but I think I'd need some specific examples. I play MMO's a lot, and Elder scrolls online definitely has my eye. I mostly just want the ability to be able to play games new and upcoming games at high or max settings. I live in Canada.
Okay, that's helpful. ~$1500 is more reasonable; a $2000 build would probably include an upgrade to a 1440p or 1600p monitor because further upgrades probably wouldn't do you much otherwise.
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
On February 27 2013 04:56 Wabbit wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 00:04 Cyro wrote:
Ivy bridge outperforms SB-E in games by quite big margins - the 3820 does not overclock as easily or far as 1155 equivelants (limited to bclk, etc - its not unlocked) Um, that's not really true... the 3820 has a couple of increased BCLK options (with BCLK not tied to other components, so doesn't cause instability; dubbed "Gear Ratio" options are 1.25x and 1.66x IIRC). It's very common to go for the 1.25x setting (125MHz BCLK) with a 37x multiplier for a 4.625GHz overclock, or 38x 125 = 4.75GHz. EDIT: Also considering the max multiplier is 43, even with the 125 Gear Ratio, you could theoretically get 5.375GHz, though of course very few chips, motherboards, and traditional/mainstream cooling systems will be capable of that stably. Then there's also the 166 Gear Ratio option... seems to me like overclocking here is pretty unlimited theoretically. It may be Sandy, but that overclock is very respectable (and not too difficult to achieve) and it does have 10MB of L3 cache, so it's no slower by "big margins", more like, around 10% or so behind a 3770K, with the added benefit of 40 PCI-e 3.0 lanes... nice for multi-high-end-GPU configs for very high-resolution gaming.
I have been enlightened :D
Thanks
I didnt think it would be like that, because practically nobody actually buys LGA2011 for the 3820 (usually 3570k/3770k or 3930k)
|
Question. I currently have a z68 motherboard. Planning on either getting the i5-2500 or flashing bios and going i5-3570. Not overclocking obv. They are the same price, but not sure how well ivy bridge runs on the z68 chipset. Any recommendations?
|
On February 27 2013 13:37 upperbound wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 12:24 Ropid wrote:
Look at Asus P8Z77-V Pro and P8Z77-V Deluxe. Both should be equipped for good overclocking, at least compared to the cheap boards. The Deluxe should be better than the Pro for that. I remember a review where the Pro was commended for staying completely stable at up to 52 C heat for four days with their testing, which could be interesting for you as you mentioned it'll get very hot where you are living. Both are a lot cheaper than the Asus Rampage IV Formula you originally planned to buy. Even those are pretty overkill for a 3770k, unless you need the support (for example, if he/she knows that (s)he's going to SLI/Crossfire 7970s, the 2 PCIe 3.0 x16 lanes might matter). Plus, if it's going to get very hot where he/she is, then there's probably even less reason for the slightly better VRM, as he's probably going to be capped by ambient temperatures before supertight voltage regulation for aggressive overclocking matters. If you're looking for just a solid board that can do a decent overclock, without for sure planning on SLI/Crossfire (although these boards will support it if you decide you want to eventually) or needing extra USB 3.0 slots or onboard displayport or something else random, I'd consider these: Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H Asus P8Z77-LX or LK MSI Z77A-G45 or GD55 ASRock Pro3, Pro4 or Extreme4 (although you asked for alternatives to these NOTE: you basically want to choose the cheapest out of these, although the boards do get slightly better from left to right by brand if you find them for the same price or within $5, take the one to the right. If you're doing something like high-quality custom water cooling or better (some insane liquid nitrogen rig or something), then by all means, go buy that V-Pro or Sabertooth or Rampage IV or other nonsense, but for 99% of builders these are a complete waste of money. The ones above hit the sweet spot for all but the more extreme overclocker or the person needing the extra support for specifics reasons, which they should have in mind before they make the leap.
Thanks alot for ur advice..
just one more question.. since i cant find those u listed ( out of stock )
these are the options i can find:
-Gigabyte® M/B Intel Z77X-UD5H A/L/V (1155)
-Asus® M/B Intel P8Z77-V A/L/V (1155)
-MSI® M/B Intel Z77A-GD65 A/L/V (1155)
-Asus® M/B Intel P8Z77-M PRO A/L/V (1155)
about these mb that i listed.. how are them? comparing them to the one's u listed
and which one u recommend me?
Thanks again for ur answers.
Bye !
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
On February 27 2013 16:29 Chairman Ray wrote:
Question. I currently have a z68 motherboard. Planning on either getting the i5-2500 or flashing bios and going i5-3570. Not overclocking obv. They are the same price, but not sure how well ivy bridge runs on the z68 chipset. Any recommendations?
It doesnt really matter which you take - 3570 will be higher price and performance a bit.
I heard you had to have a sandy bridge CPU to update bios so that the boards would accept ivy's, but i didnt look into it myself
|
On February 27 2013 16:58 Mathwel wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 13:37 upperbound wrote:On February 27 2013 12:24 Ropid wrote:
Look at Asus P8Z77-V Pro and P8Z77-V Deluxe. Both should be equipped for good overclocking, at least compared to the cheap boards. The Deluxe should be better than the Pro for that. I remember a review where the Pro was commended for staying completely stable at up to 52 C heat for four days with their testing, which could be interesting for you as you mentioned it'll get very hot where you are living. Both are a lot cheaper than the Asus Rampage IV Formula you originally planned to buy. Even those are pretty overkill for a 3770k, unless you need the support (for example, if he/she knows that (s)he's going to SLI/Crossfire 7970s, the 2 PCIe 3.0 x16 lanes might matter). Plus, if it's going to get very hot where he/she is, then there's probably even less reason for the slightly better VRM, as he's probably going to be capped by ambient temperatures before supertight voltage regulation for aggressive overclocking matters. If you're looking for just a solid board that can do a decent overclock, without for sure planning on SLI/Crossfire (although these boards will support it if you decide you want to eventually) or needing extra USB 3.0 slots or onboard displayport or something else random, I'd consider these: Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H Asus P8Z77-LX or LK MSI Z77A-G45 or GD55 ASRock Pro3, Pro4 or Extreme4 (although you asked for alternatives to these NOTE: you basically want to choose the cheapest out of these, although the boards do get slightly better from left to right by brand if you find them for the same price or within $5, take the one to the right. If you're doing something like high-quality custom water cooling or better (some insane liquid nitrogen rig or something), then by all means, go buy that V-Pro or Sabertooth or Rampage IV or other nonsense, but for 99% of builders these are a complete waste of money. The ones above hit the sweet spot for all but the more extreme overclocker or the person needing the extra support for specifics reasons, which they should have in mind before they make the leap. Thanks alot for ur advice.. just one more question.. since i cant find those u listed ( out of stock ) these are the options i can find: -Gigabyte® M/B Intel Z77X-UD5H A/L/V (1155) -Asus® M/B Intel P8Z77-V A/L/V (1155) -MSI® M/B Intel Z77A-GD65 A/L/V (1155) -Asus® M/B Intel P8Z77-M PRO A/L/V (1155) about these mb that i listed.. how are them? comparing them to the one's u listed and which one u recommend me? Thanks again for ur answers. Bye !
Those are all more expensive and higher-end than every one listed. Any of those should be more than you need, so the cheapest of those is okay.
If there are models like:
Gigabyte Z77MX-D3H, Z77X-D3H, Z77X-UD3H, Z77X-UD4H, Z77X-UP4, G1.Sniper M3
Asus P8Z77-M, P8Z77-V LE, P8Z77-V LE Plus
then those are between the ones listed previously and the ones you found.
|
Was wondering if you guys could help me review my pc i might build
these are the specs. if i am missing any parts please let me know
case: CM Storm Enforcer Mid Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case
***anyone recommend a very good case? i was thinking this or the HAF912***
process: i5-3570k
fan: Hyper 212 EVO
mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10
***memory comes with the motherboard thats why i was thinking of buying that***
graphics card: GTX 660
power supply: Builder Series CX600 600 Watt ATX 12V Power Supply
ssd: Samsung 840 250GB
the overall price for the parts would be about $850
i obviously need to get microsoft word, ppt, etc...but what else would i need?
this would be my first time building a pc so no harsh criticism would be appreciated thanks ^^
|
Then you need to buy a second stick of that RAM (the exact same stick). You need to populate row 1 and 3, or row 2 and 4 with two similar sticks. Otherwise, dual channel mode does not switch on, you'll only have half the memory bandwidth.
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
1600mhz cas10 1.5v with a massive heat spreader is not particularly good RAM, it's probably better to just buy a fresh new kit or to not get the bundle rather than paying for 16gb of suboptimal RAM
|
Quick question: I built my rig in 2010, so it's starting to get a bit old. I'm not unhappy with the performance yet, but I'm starting to think about freshening up. I currently have this mobo and this GPU. If I were to get a new GPU, would buying a PCI E 3.0 card make sense without upgrading any of the other components? I can get two PCI E 2.0 or 2.1 cards for ~the price of one similar memory size PCI E 3.0 card it seems, but I'm not sure which route would be wisest.
|
konadora
Singapore66071 Posts
Hey guys, I'm helping out a friend who wants to build his own comp. Would appreciate any suggestions/recommendations as to what parts to use!
Budget: USD1000
Resolution: 1980 x 1080
Using for: Gaming, Photoshop, Video editing
Upgrade cycle: 4-5 years
When to build: This weekend
OC: Not necessary but good to have?
OS: Already have one
Second GPU: Nope
Where to buy parts: Locally in Singapore
The only thing my friend is keeping is a medium-sized tower casing from his old comp, other than that he is doing a full refresh. Friend prefers Nvidia over ATI but is willing to compromise if it's more value-for-money.
|
On February 28 2013 03:06 Rho_ wrote:Quick question: I built my rig in 2010, so it's starting to get a bit old. I'm not unhappy with the performance yet, but I'm starting to think about freshening up. I currently have this mobo and this GPU. If I were to get a new GPU, would buying a PCI E 3.0 card make sense without upgrading any of the other components? I can get two PCI E 2.0 or 2.1 cards for ~the price of one similar memory size PCI E 3.0 card it seems, but I'm not sure which route would be wisest.
With SLI or CrossfireX, you're going to be dealing with microstuttering and profiles. And having two cards does not equate to having twice the amount of memory fyi.
PCI-E 2.0 does not bottleneck any modern single cards. Going single card route is almost always better.
|
On February 28 2013 04:57 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On February 28 2013 03:06 Rho_ wrote:Quick question: I built my rig in 2010, so it's starting to get a bit old. I'm not unhappy with the performance yet, but I'm starting to think about freshening up. I currently have this mobo and this GPU. If I were to get a new GPU, would buying a PCI E 3.0 card make sense without upgrading any of the other components? I can get two PCI E 2.0 or 2.1 cards for ~the price of one similar memory size PCI E 3.0 card it seems, but I'm not sure which route would be wisest. With SLI or CrossfireX, you're going to be dealing with microstuttering and profiles. And having two cards does not equate to having twice the amount of memory fyi. PCI-E 2.0 does not bottleneck any modern single cards. Going single card route is almost always better.
Thank you sir! So is Crossfire generally not a great option then? When I originally built the system I went for that option thinking it would be a good way to keep my options open when upgrading.
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
A lot of people think that, but it's really not very good.
|
Well then! The more you know. I am happy to hear that I can buy PCI e 3.0 cards and have them work in my mobo, however. Thanks for the help gentlemen!
|
|
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
Not really, no.
Do you really need that much voltage for 4ghz? Voltage affects temperatures a lot more than frequencies, and my 3770k can do 4.3ghz on that voltage (though its above average). You could probably get 4.2 or lower it notably
|
On February 28 2013 02:28 Cyro wrote:
1600mhz cas10 1.5v with a massive heat spreader is not particularly good RAM, it's probably better to just buy a fresh new kit or to not get the bundle rather than paying for 16gb of suboptimal RAM
I'd say the most annoying thing of my recent build was now I've got this kind of crappy RAM stick they stuck in the box that I have no use for. A minor annoyance, at least :p.
|
United Kingdom20275 Posts
I ended up with a bundle deal thing, 3770k, p8z77-v and some 1866mhz RAM, it was a lot of money off though.
It was cas10 and fails stress testing at the specs on the box, need to run it at 1600c10 or 1866c11 so its pretty much trash
Happy birthday :D
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
