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On February 27 2013 01:23 upperbound wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 01:03 xeo1 wrote:
btw, how much will my electric bill be impacted now that I OC'd from 3.4ghz to 4.2ghz? and will my CPU's lifespan be affected in any significant way? :D because if the changes are radical maybe it's not even worth the moderate performance boost. Your CPU lifespan won't be affected in any significant way (i.e., it will almost certainly become obsolete before it dies) as long as you keep it a bit under 90c and under 1.3v. After there, longevity will decrease more rapidly. And your CPU is rated to use about 77W at load on stock speeds and voltages; because of the increased voltage it will likely run something like 90W at load. This is less than the equivalent of changing from a 40w to a 60w lightbulb at your computer desk -- it's not going to make a ton of difference unless you leave your computer on 24/7.
Got you. How do these numbers look? I've been testing for about an hour and a half.
http://imgur.com/RIqQDGe
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
^They are good, i'd suggest doing short term testing with intelburntest, unless you want to do a 24-hour 90%+ RAM max priority p95 custom blend
You have quite a bit of vdroop (1.16 max, 1.136 min) so the voltage set in bios might need to be a touch higher than what the CPU needs to stay stable (because it will be lower than set), but ignore that
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On February 27 2013 01:56 xeo1 wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 01:23 upperbound wrote:On February 27 2013 01:03 xeo1 wrote:
btw, how much will my electric bill be impacted now that I OC'd from 3.4ghz to 4.2ghz? and will my CPU's lifespan be affected in any significant way? :D because if the changes are radical maybe it's not even worth the moderate performance boost. Your CPU lifespan won't be affected in any significant way (i.e., it will almost certainly become obsolete before it dies) as long as you keep it a bit under 90c and under 1.3v. After there, longevity will decrease more rapidly. And your CPU is rated to use about 77W at load on stock speeds and voltages; because of the increased voltage it will likely run something like 90W at load. This is less than the equivalent of changing from a 40w to a 60w lightbulb at your computer desk -- it's not going to make a ton of difference unless you leave your computer on 24/7. Got you. How do these numbers look? I've been testing for about an hour and a half. http://imgur.com/RIqQDGe
Too much voltage.
Here is the automatic OC presets of the Z77 OC Formula that Nick Shih (Professional OCer) has worked out for this board. It should be used as a benchmark and starting point.
![[image loading]](http://images.anandtech.com/doci/6650/ASR%20Z77%20Auto%20OC_575px.png)
At 42x100 1.13v
Using a fast stability checker (such as IBT) you should try to keep lowering your voltage until it doesn't pass, then bump the voltage 1notch and test for longer periods (Prime95).
Also I used my 1100th post on this, hopefully I don't get ninja'd.
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On February 27 2013 02:05 Cyro wrote:
^They are good, i'd suggest doing short term testing with intelburntest, unless you want to do a 24-hour 90%+ RAM max priority p95 custom blend
You have quite a bit of vdroop (1.16 max, 1.136 min) so the voltage set in bios might need to be a touch higher than what the CPU needs to stay stable (because it will be lower than set), but ignore that
ok, started intelburnteste on very high and set to run 10 times, but stopped after 3 rounds cos temperatures seemed high.
http://i.imgur.com/CngcTMI.jpg
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United Kingdom20326 Posts
Indeed. You also have some kind of problem with your overclock or CPU - For reference my 3770k (ht off) at 4.4ghz benches 120gflops in Intelburntest.
Your results should be consistent (within a few % at most) and much much higher.
You have something wrong if you are getting temps >90c at 4.2ghz and that kind of vcore - It's off by as much as 25c+ for a Gaia.
I have better temps (significiantly) on a bundled "quiet" cooler that im not sure is even better than stock - the gaia completely outclasses it.
I dont think you can say, btw, that 1.15vcore is too much when even that picture shows 1.13.
0.02v is almost nothing - my CPU will do 4.4ghz on 1.13 bios but a friend went through two CPU's that would not do it at 1.23 - it varies too much CPU to CPU
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On February 27 2013 02:48 Cyro wrote:
Indeed. You also have some kind of problem with your overclock or CPU - For reference my 3770k (ht off) at 4.4ghz benches 120gflops in Intelburntest.
Your results should be consistent (within a few % at most) and much much higher.
You have something wrong if you are getting temps >90c at 4.2ghz and that kind of vcore - It's off by as much as 25c+ for a Gaia.
I have better temps (significiantly) on a bundled "quiet" cooler that im not sure is even better than stock - the gaia completely outclasses it.
I dont think you can say, btw, that 1.15vcore is too much when even that picture shows 1.13.
0.02v is almost nothing - my CPU will do 4.4ghz on 1.13 bios but a friend went through two CPU's that would not do it at 1.23 - it varies too much CPU to CPU
could thermal paste have anything to do with it?  I changed the fan yesterday.
also, my OC settings were as follows:
multiplier: 42
spread spectrum: disabled
additional turbo voltage: +.004
internal pll overvoltage: disabled
gt overclocking support: disabled
power saving mode: disabled
cpu core voltage: offset mode (+.005)
cpu load-line calibration: 50%
C1E: enabled
C3: disabled
C6: disabled
C state: disabled
anything out of place?
EDIT: defaulted the uefi. these are the numbers on stock.
http://i.imgur.com/8rGYFo2.jpg
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Was wondering if you guys could help me review my pc i might build
these are the specs. if i am missing any parts please let me know
case: CM Storm Enforcer Mid Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case
process: i5-3570k
fan: Hyper 212 EVO
mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10
graphics card: GTX 660
power supply: Builder Series CX600 600 Watt ATX 12V Power Supply
ssd: Samsung 840 120GB
the overall price for the parts would be about $850
i obviously need to get microsoft word, ppt, etc...but what else would i need?
this would be my first time building a pc so no harsh criticism would be appreciated thanks ^^
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You made a mistake with the memory. Google says "CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10" is one single 8 GB stick. You need a kit of two to get dual channel running, so something like a 2x4 GB kit, not 1x8 GB.
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On February 27 2013 03:16 azngamer828 wrote:
Was wondering if you guys could help me review my pc i might build
these are the specs. if i am missing any parts please let me know
case: CM Storm Enforcer Mid Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case
process: i5-3570k
fan: Hyper 212 EVO
mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10
graphics card: GTX 660
power supply: Builder Series CX600 600 Watt ATX 12V Power Supply
ssd: Samsung 840 120GB
the overall price for the parts would be about $850
i obviously need to get microsoft word, ppt, etc...but what else would i need?
this would be my first time building a pc so no harsh criticism would be appreciated thanks ^^
PSU is junk. the GTX 660 only has a 1 6pin power connector so a CX430 would work. The case is a bit overpriced and the Thermals are bad for its price bracket. I believe the Z77-V LK only has ALC887/892 audio codex, while others in it's price bracket have ALC898 (best), so I see no reason to pay for the name.
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I'd also try to save $ somewhere, cheap out on the case and psu, and buy the 250 GB Samsung 840 SSD instead of 120 GB.
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On February 27 2013 00:04 Cyro wrote:
Ivy bridge outperforms SB-E in games by quite big margins - the 3820 does not overclock as easily or far as 1155 equivelants (limited to bclk, etc - its not unlocked)
Um, that's not really true... the 3820 has a couple of increased BCLK options (with BCLK not tied to other components, so doesn't cause instability; dubbed "Gear Ratio" options are 1.25x and 1.66x IIRC). It's very common to go for the 1.25x setting (125MHz BCLK) with a 37x multiplier for a 4.625GHz overclock, or 38x 125 = 4.75GHz.
EDIT: Also considering the max multiplier is 43, even with the 125 Gear Ratio, you could theoretically get 5.375GHz, though of course very few chips, motherboards, and traditional/mainstream cooling systems will be capable of that stably. Then there's also the 166 Gear Ratio option... seems to me like overclocking here is pretty unlimited theoretically.
It may be Sandy, but that overclock is very respectable (and not too difficult to achieve) and it does have 10MB of L3 cache, so it's no slower by "big margins", more like, around 10% or so behind a 3770K, with the added benefit of 40 PCI-e 3.0 lanes... nice for multi-high-end-GPU configs for very high-resolution gaming.
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On February 27 2013 04:56 Wabbit wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 00:04 Cyro wrote:
Ivy bridge outperforms SB-E in games by quite big margins - the 3820 does not overclock as easily or far as 1155 equivelants (limited to bclk, etc - its not unlocked) Um, that's not really true... the 3820 has a couple of increased BCLK options (with BCLK not tied to other components, so doesn't cause instability; dubbed "Gear Ratio" options are 1.25x and 1.66x IIRC). It's very common to go for the 1.25x setting (125MHz BCLK) with a 37x multiplier for a 4.625GHz overclock, or 38x 125 = 4.75GHz. EDIT: Also considering the max multiplier is 43, even with the 125 Gear Ratio, you could theoretically get 5.375GHz, though of course very few chips, motherboards, and traditional/mainstream cooling systems will be capable of that stably. Then there's also the 166 Gear Ratio option... seems to me like overclocking here is pretty unlimited theoretically. It may be Sandy, but that overclock is very respectable (and not too difficult to achieve) and it does have 10MB of L3 cache, so it's no slower by "big margins", more like, around 10% or so behind a 3770K, with the added benefit of 40 PCI-e 3.0 lanes... nice for multi-high-end-GPU configs for very high-resolution gaming.
if i where going to buy another 7970 sooner or later.
which one should i buy.. the 3700k or the 3820 ?
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None of anything you're describing warrants i7-3820 / X79 over i7-3770k / Z77.
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My Laptop was getting up to 95C watching Netflix with vents unobstructed. Cleaned out a pretty small amount of dust from the heatsink fan and it dropped 35C. I'm surprised such a little bit of dust has such an effect on it.
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On February 27 2013 03:22 iTzSnypah wrote:Show nested quote +On February 27 2013 03:16 azngamer828 wrote:
Was wondering if you guys could help me review my pc i might build
these are the specs. if i am missing any parts please let me know
case: CM Storm Enforcer Mid Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case
process: i5-3570k
fan: Hyper 212 EVO
mobo: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10
graphics card: GTX 660
power supply: Builder Series CX600 600 Watt ATX 12V Power Supply
ssd: Samsung 840 120GB
the overall price for the parts would be about $850
i obviously need to get microsoft word, ppt, etc...but what else would i need?
this would be my first time building a pc so no harsh criticism would be appreciated thanks ^^ PSU is junk. the GTX 660 only has a 1 6pin power connector so a CX430 would work. The case is a bit overpriced and the Thermals are bad for its price bracket. I believe the Z77-V LK only has ALC887/892 audio codex, while others in it's price bracket have ALC898 (best), so I see no reason to pay for the name.
i wasnt sure if the cx430 had enough power for it, so ill look into that
for the case i was thinking about either that case or the HAF 912
so whats your recommendation for the mobo and the case?
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i dont know which mb to get for an i7 3700k :/
i mean a mb that can be oc, but that is not overpriced like the rogs
anyone can recommend me one? plz besides asrock
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Look at Asus P8Z77-V Pro and P8Z77-V Deluxe. Both should be equipped for good overclocking, at least compared to the cheap boards. The Deluxe should be better than the Pro for that. I remember a review where the Pro was commended for staying completely stable at up to 52 C heat for four days with their testing, which could be interesting for you as you mentioned it'll get very hot where you are living. Both are a lot cheaper than the Asus Rampage IV Formula you originally planned to buy.
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On February 27 2013 12:24 Ropid wrote:
Look at Asus P8Z77-V Pro and P8Z77-V Deluxe. Both should be equipped for good overclocking, at least compared to the cheap boards. The Deluxe should be better than the Pro for that. I remember a review where the Pro was commended for staying completely stable at up to 52 C heat for four days with their testing, which could be interesting for you as you mentioned it'll get very hot where you are living. Both are a lot cheaper than the Asus Rampage IV Formula you originally planned to buy.
Even those are pretty overkill for a 3770k, unless you need the support (for example, if he/she knows that (s)he's going to SLI/Crossfire 7970s, the 2 PCIe 3.0 x16 lanes might matter). Plus, if it's going to get very hot where he/she is, then there's probably even less reason for the slightly better VRM, as he's probably going to be capped by ambient temperatures before supertight voltage regulation for aggressive overclocking matters.
If you're looking for just a solid board that can do a decent overclock, without for sure planning on SLI/Crossfire (although these boards will support it if you decide you want to eventually) or needing extra USB 3.0 slots or onboard displayport or something else random, I'd consider these:
Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H
Asus P8Z77-LX or LK
MSI Z77A-G45 or GD55
ASRock Pro3, Pro4 or Extreme4 (although you asked for alternatives to these
NOTE: you basically want to choose the cheapest out of these, although the boards do get slightly better from left to right by brand if you find them for the same price or within $5, take the one to the right.
If you're doing something like high-quality custom water cooling or better (some insane liquid nitrogen rig or something), then by all means, go buy that V-Pro or Sabertooth or Rampage IV or other nonsense, but for 99% of builders these are a complete waste of money. The ones above hit the sweet spot for all but the more extreme overclocker or the person needing the extra support for specifics reasons, which they should have in mind before they make the leap.
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Hey all, I'm looking to build a PC and could use some help.
Budget is $2000
Resolution is 1920x1200
I will be gaming a lot on it, and would like to be able to play games with max settings. I will also be dabbling in photoshop and would like to try out streaming at one point.
Upgrade cycle will be every 2+ years I imagine
Would like to build ASAP
I don't know enough about overclocking atm to say that I will do it, but I might like to in the future.
I imagine for an OS I will be choosing between either windows 7 or 8 which will be included in the budget.
much like overclocking I don't really know a whole lot about SLI and crossfire. I'm pretty open to it, but can do without it I'm sure.
Will probably get everything off Newegg
Thanks in advance for any help!
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On February 27 2013 13:44 Darkice89 wrote:
Hey all, I'm looking to build a PC and could use some help.
Budget is $2000
Resolution is 1920x1200
I will be gaming a lot on it, and would like to be able to play games with max settings. I will also be dabbling in photoshop and would like to try out streaming at one point.
Upgrade cycle will be every 2+ years I imagine
Would like to build ASAP
I don't know enough about overclocking atm to say that I will do it, but I might like to in the future.
I imagine for an OS I will be choosing between either windows 7 or 8 which will be included in the budget.
much like overclocking I don't really know a whole lot about SLI and crossfire. I'm pretty open to it, but can do without it I'm sure.
Will probably get everything off Newegg
Thanks in advance for any help!
1. You have a huge budget. How do you value price/performance once you start getting to the point where you're paying 25% more for 8% more performance?
2. What games do you plan on playing?
EDIT: 3. Also, just to confirm, are you currently in the U.S. or Canada? Just for pricing purposes on newegg.com or newegg.ca if there's a difference. Also, Newegg will have new deals tomorrow night/Thursday morning, so wait until then at least for a build :D
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EPT
