|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On February 25 2013 09:28 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 09:15 Cyro wrote:
I dont know about the motherboard or the SSD but i wouldnt be suprised if they were bad buys too Maximus V Formula is one of those kind of cost-no-objection competitive overclocking boards. Normal Asus ROG high prices. Corsair Force 3 is one of those 2nd-gen SandForce drives, with mediocre flash (below-average current-gen / last-gen reliability and performance). So pretty much, you're right.
wich MB and SDD will u recomend :o?
|
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On February 25 2013 11:58 Mathwel wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 09:15 Cyro wrote:
3770k instead of 3570k, 16gb RAM instead of 4/8 (depending on preference) at the same frequencies and timings, h60, PSU - you are overspending a ton for literally no gains, unless you have specific use for all of these things.
h60 is a really bad buy for any level of overclocking. At low levels its completely unneccesary - at high it's inadequate, noisy and a bitch in general, being a closed loop water cooler.
16gb RAM, well you have no performance gains from RAM unless you would run out of capacity. I never break 4-5gb or so running multiple games, browser, skype, etc. Why go over 8?
Hyperthreading from i5 to i7 "upgrade" does not change performance in games - i7 does not add anything else, its just wasted money.
850w PSU? You want a quality 450-500w unit, not 850w.
I dont know about the motherboard or the SSD but i wouldnt be suprised if they were bad buys too ups srry this is a repost, so i forget to say that the pc is for streaming too, and i also use sony vegas, rendering, etc. about the ssd, is for games and the os only, i got another 1TB HDD. well the cooler, mb the Corsair® WaterCooling Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance is a better option? well im still open to suggestions so plz keep them coming, i dont want to scew up this build :x
Get decent RAM, something like 1600mhz cl9 1.5v
Closed loop water coolers are bad in general - they dont outperform air, thats mostly misconception. h50/h60 etc dont compete with the NH-D14, h100i is hardly better but its not worth getting in most cases. What are your goals for overclocking?
Notes on PSU, SSD, Motherboard still stand. (better or lower priced available)
|
can you recomend any good MB, PSU, SSD?
and btw i want to oc it, but yeah i kinda need a good cooler, cuz where i live its really "hot" so even if i dont oc it, il still will be needing a good cooler.
and whats wrong with the ram i choose :o?
Thanks For the answers :D
|
United Kingdom20326 Posts
and whats wrong with the ram i choose :o?
Nothing, its actually pretty much perfect, exactly what i said (i forgot before that you already selected RAM)
Cooler, if you want best, Noctua NH-D14 with a decent case that has 2-6 fans and clearance for it. PSU, you want something like a quality 450-500w unit - im not the one to ask for model numbers, same for ssd/motherboard, someone else will help you out there
|
There are so many options for so many parts that it's hard to say without knowing what's available and for what prices.
|
On February 25 2013 13:43 Cyro wrote:Nothing, its actually pretty much perfect, exactly what i said (i forgot before that you already selected RAM) Cooler, if you want best, Noctua NH-D14 with a decent case that has 2-6 fans and clearance for it. PSU, you want something like a quality 450-500w unit - im not the one to ask for model numbers, same for ssd/motherboard, someone else will help you out there
hmmm about that cooler, i dont think i will be able to find it on my country...
what do u think about this one? http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001646
|
I've got my new PC up and running, but I can't make my U2713HM go above 1080 resolution in W7. I've got the latest drivers (7970 Ghz), the driver for the monitor itself, and a DVI-D dual-link cable. I've tried plugging it directly into the DVI port and into the display port (using an active DVI->Display Port adapter). I've also tried resetting the monitor to factory defaults.
Any ideas?
Figured it out. Had to change a switch on the video card and then use DVI on both ends.
|
On February 25 2013 06:33 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 06:29 xeo1 wrote:On February 25 2013 06:21 Craton wrote:On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be? What's your motherboard? asrock z77 pro-4 m, and an i5 3570k. replaced stock fan with xigmatek gaia sd1283. It's a memory related beep code, I believe, but since the RAM controller is on the CPU with modern Intel, the CPU unseat is still a distinct possibility. You can also try reseating RAM first though.
you got it right. I didn't plug the RAM all the way til it clicks. thanks^^
|
another thing. I've been reading about OCing and they recommend just going into BIOS and changing the multiplier from 34 to 42 on the i5 3570k. would this be safe to do? my mobo is asrock z77 pro4-m and a corsair CX 430W v2 btw. I would just want a stable clocking, nothing extreme.
|
On February 26 2013 02:52 xeo1 wrote:
another thing. I've been reading about OCing and they recommend just going into BIOS and changing the multiplier from 34 to 42 on the i5 3570k. would this be safe to do? my mobo is asrock z77 pro4-m and a corsair CX 430W v2 btw. I would just want a stable clocking, nothing extreme.
Overclocking is chip and system dependent. Increasing clock speeds increases the probability of errors and crashing (less stability). As for whether or not it will work on your system, you won't know unless you try and test it.
Very most likely, you could up the voltage some reasonable amount (I mean, under 0.1V, probably under) and get 4.2 GHz to work, so long as you're using better than stock cooling.
|
On February 26 2013 03:00 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On February 26 2013 02:52 xeo1 wrote:
another thing. I've been reading about OCing and they recommend just going into BIOS and changing the multiplier from 34 to 42 on the i5 3570k. would this be safe to do? my mobo is asrock z77 pro4-m and a corsair CX 430W v2 btw. I would just want a stable clocking, nothing extreme. Overclocking is chip and system dependent. Increasing clock speeds increases the probability of errors and crashing (less stability). As for whether or not it will work on your system, you won't know unless you try and test it. Very most likely, you could up the voltage some reasonable amount (I mean, under 0.1V, probably under) and get 4.2 GHz to work, so long as you're using better than stock cooling.
right now the voltage is at +0.005. should I change that?
|
United Kingdom20326 Posts
A really lucky chip could do 4.2ghz on 1.0v, you'd probably need like 1.15 or something.
Quick and easy basic OC - set 42 multi, manual voltage, 1.2vcore, run 20 runs high or very high on Intelburntest, if it passes, go down in vcore (1.2, 1.18, 1.16, 1.14) etc. If it fails, go up two of those steps and go 50 runs to confirm basic stability.
Little bit of vcore does not matter at that point and optimization doesnt really mean anything at low levels of heat, voltage, etc.
Of course, monitor temperatures with Realtemp. You shouldnt pass something like 80c under that load
|
i know the i5 3570k is quite a bit better for starcraft 2 than the FX-8350 but does anyone know what happens when you factor in streaming?
|
Then the i5 is even better then the FX-8350 then when compared to when simply gaming
|
On February 26 2013 05:06 Rachnar wrote:
Then the i5 is even better then the FX-8350 then when compared to when simply gaming
oh i misunderstood you
surely the extra cores can alleviate some of the stress on the CPU?
|
Unless you want to see what can get slightly better image quality / bitrate maxing out realtime encoding speed running a 15 fps stream, the FX-8350 is going to be worse off because it will have access to fewer source frames of animation and thus look choppier, reflecting what the streamer is seeing.
|
On February 26 2013 05:13 Slipspace wrote:Show nested quote +On February 26 2013 05:06 Rachnar wrote:
Then the i5 is even better then the FX-8350 then when compared to when simply gaming oh i misunderstood you surely the extra cores can alleviate some of the stress on the CPU?
The i5 already has enough cores for that, so the 8 core AMD can't beat it. SC2 only uses two cores fully, and a little bit of a third core.
|
On February 26 2013 03:46 Cyro wrote:
A really lucky chip could do 4.2ghz on 1.0v, you'd probably need like 1.15 or something.
Quick and easy basic OC - set 42 multi, manual voltage, 1.2vcore, run 20 runs high or very high on Intelburntest, if it passes, go down in vcore (1.2, 1.18, 1.16, 1.14) etc. If it fails, go up two of those steps and go 50 runs to confirm basic stability.
Little bit of vcore does not matter at that point and optimization doesnt really mean anything at low levels of heat, voltage, etc.
Of course, monitor temperatures with Realtemp. You shouldnt pass something like 80c under that load
so if my vcore is +1.00, I should put the offset as +.2 (default is .005)? since I have no option that changes the vcore altogether.
|
On February 26 2013 06:25 xeo1 wrote:Show nested quote +On February 26 2013 03:46 Cyro wrote:
A really lucky chip could do 4.2ghz on 1.0v, you'd probably need like 1.15 or something.
Quick and easy basic OC - set 42 multi, manual voltage, 1.2vcore, run 20 runs high or very high on Intelburntest, if it passes, go down in vcore (1.2, 1.18, 1.16, 1.14) etc. If it fails, go up two of those steps and go 50 runs to confirm basic stability.
Little bit of vcore does not matter at that point and optimization doesnt really mean anything at low levels of heat, voltage, etc.
Of course, monitor temperatures with Realtemp. You shouldnt pass something like 80c under that load so if my vcore is +1.00, I should put the offset as +.2 (default is .005)? since I have no option that changes the vcore altogether.
I have the same board and CPU as you, and just now went into the BIOS to look up my settings. I use the latest BIOS version, 1.80. These are the results of my experiments with overclocking the last two months:
4.3 GHz: Offset Voltage -0.010 V
4.4 GHz: Offset Voltage +0.045 V
4.5 GHz: Offset Voltage +0.105 V
What the actual voltages will be, you'll see with CPU-Z while running IntelBurnTest. The board has no settings to directly set those. With the -0.010 V Offset Voltage at multiplier 43, I see the Core Voltage in CPU-Z change between 1.080 V and 1.104 V while running IntelBurnTest. I have no idea how that offset setting relates to the actual voltage.
About the other BIOS settings: at the top of the screen, set "Advanced Turbo 30" to Disabled. This is important, leaving it on would make the board use some automatic rules resulting in higher voltages and temperature. Do not load any of the overclocking presets. Set "CPU Ratio" to All Core. At the bottom of the screen at the Voltage Configuration, set "Power Saving Mode" to Disabled, set "CPU Voltage" to Offset Mode. The rest of the settings, leave/put them on Auto.
I tested with IntelBurnTest using 4 GB memory, and perhaps 12 hours of Prime95 running in "blend" setting, also ran MemTest up to over 200 % coverage. Room temperature was generally about 21 degrees C, but probably a lot colder at the ground where the PC gets its air from, as the outside weather was generally freezing, so I have no idea how it'll fare in warmer weather.
|
On February 26 2013 06:31 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On February 26 2013 06:25 xeo1 wrote:On February 26 2013 03:46 Cyro wrote:
A really lucky chip could do 4.2ghz on 1.0v, you'd probably need like 1.15 or something.
Quick and easy basic OC - set 42 multi, manual voltage, 1.2vcore, run 20 runs high or very high on Intelburntest, if it passes, go down in vcore (1.2, 1.18, 1.16, 1.14) etc. If it fails, go up two of those steps and go 50 runs to confirm basic stability.
Little bit of vcore does not matter at that point and optimization doesnt really mean anything at low levels of heat, voltage, etc.
Of course, monitor temperatures with Realtemp. You shouldnt pass something like 80c under that load so if my vcore is +1.00, I should put the offset as +.2 (default is .005)? since I have no option that changes the vcore altogether. I have the same board and CPU as you, and just now went into the BIOS to look up my settings. I use the latest BIOS version, 1.80. These are the results of my experiments with overclocking the last two months: 4.3 GHz: Offset Voltage -0.010 V 4.4 GHz: Offset Voltage +0.045 V 4.5 GHz: Offset Voltage +0.105 V What the actual voltages will be, you'll see with CPU-Z while running IntelBurnTest. The board has no settings to directly set those. With the -0.010 V Offset Voltage at multiplier 43, I see the Core Voltage in CPU-Z change between 1.080 V and 1.104 V while running IntelBurnTest. I have no idea how that offset setting relates to the actual voltage. About the other BIOS settings: at the top of the screen, set "Advanced Turbo 30" to Disabled. This is important, leaving it on would make the board use some automatic rules resulting in higher voltages and temperature. Do not load any of the overclocking presets. Set "CPU Ratio" to All Core. At the bottom of the screen at the Voltage Configuration, set "Power Saving Mode" to Disabled, set "CPU Voltage" to Offset Mode. The rest of the settings, leave/put them on Auto. I tested with IntelBurnTest using 4 GB memory, and perhaps 12 hours of Prime95 running in "blend" setting, also ran MemTest up to over 200 % coverage. Room temperature was generally about 21 degrees C, but probably a lot colder at the ground where the PC gets its air from, as the outside weather was generally freezing, so I have no idea how it'll fare in warmer weather.
thanks for the detailed response. what would you recommend as the offset then at 4.2 ghz though? leave it on default? I'd rather not go higher just yet
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
