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Transmission powers even on the routers are what, like 70 mW or thereabouts max? I know that amps don't have close to 100% efficiency, and you've got to power all sorts of other chips, but come on... USB2 can provide 2.5 W, as in 2500 mW. Is USB power really a limitation? Sometimes my intuition is way off and I end up eating crow, but I'm willing to bet that some person at MicroCenter is an idiot. A PCI adapter could be better in terms of reception and transmission quality, but it's not going to be because of the interface.
So laptops in the computer's room get much better reception than the Rosewill and Tenda?
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The Laptops never have less than full bars. I have a 2010 MacBook Pro and a Sony VAIO that is about a year old (I don't know if that really matters.) And the guy seemed knowledgeable about every question that I asked, Though he could've just been BSing me...
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ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be?
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[Most] of the guys at Microcenter have seemed to be competent in my experience.
I would at least give the USB-extender a try before going out and buying an internal card. Worst case you end up with a USB extension cable that might come in handy down the road.
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On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be?
Take the CPU out. It's actually one of the reasons spreading can be iffy. Check for bent or broken pins, and then reseat. Don't forget to re-clean, and re-paste again, properly and without spreading it while it's in the socket. (Which I'm guessing you did last time, causing it to unseat.)
That's why you just use the heat sink to spread it. (Among other reasons, the rest involving the issues of spreading anything that's too high of viscosity, and causing gaps. The stuff that doesn't have that problem doesn't need spreading anyways.)
Also, check the board around the CPU for spilled or overspread paste, if there is any, hope you were using non-conductive, and clean it.
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On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be?
What's your motherboard?
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On February 25 2013 06:21 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be? What's your motherboard?
asrock z77 pro-4 m, and an i5 3570k. replaced stock fan with xigmatek gaia sd1283.
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On February 25 2013 06:29 xeo1 wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 06:21 Craton wrote:On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be? What's your motherboard? asrock z77 pro-4 m, and an i5 3570k. replaced stock fan with xigmatek gaia sd1283.
It's a memory related beep code, I believe, but since the RAM controller is on the CPU with modern Intel, the CPU unseat is still a distinct possibility. You can also try reseating RAM first though.
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On February 25 2013 06:18 JingleHell wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be? Take the CPU out. It's actually one of the reasons spreading can be iffy. Check for bent or broken pins, and then reseat. Don't forget to re-clean, and re-paste again, properly and without spreading it while it's in the socket. (Which I'm guessing you did last time, causing it to unseat.) That's why you just use the heat sink to spread it. (Among other reasons, the rest involving the issues of spreading anything that's too high of viscosity, and causing gaps. The stuff that doesn't have that problem doesn't need spreading anyways.) Also, check the board around the CPU for spilled or overspread paste, if there is any, hope you were using non-conductive, and clean it.
yea the cpu was in the socket, I just removed the stock fan and cleaned the paste from the top and applied the new one, which kinda had visible gaps. I'm not sure if it was conductive, I used the paste that came with the heatsink.
btw, how does spreading the paste in the socket cause it to unseat?
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ALSO: I took out both rams when I installed the heat sink because it was in the way of screwing in the bolts. so maybe its the rams?
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On February 25 2013 06:37 xeo1 wrote:Show nested quote +On February 25 2013 06:18 JingleHell wrote:On February 25 2013 06:16 xeo1 wrote:
ok I cleaned off old thermal paste with 70% isopropyl alcohol and Qtips, then applied the new one evenly with a card and installed the heat sink, plugging in the fan to the CPU FAN_1. however, upon booting the PC, it beeps 4 times and shuts off a few seconds later even though everything is spinning normally. what could the problem be? Take the CPU out. It's actually one of the reasons spreading can be iffy. Check for bent or broken pins, and then reseat. Don't forget to re-clean, and re-paste again, properly and without spreading it while it's in the socket. (Which I'm guessing you did last time, causing it to unseat.) That's why you just use the heat sink to spread it. (Among other reasons, the rest involving the issues of spreading anything that's too high of viscosity, and causing gaps. The stuff that doesn't have that problem doesn't need spreading anyways.) Also, check the board around the CPU for spilled or overspread paste, if there is any, hope you were using non-conductive, and clean it. yea the cpu was in the socket, I just removed the stock fan and cleaned the paste from the top and applied the new one, which kinda had visible gaps. I'm not sure if it was conductive, I used the paste that came with the heatsink. btw, how does spreading the paste in the socket cause it to unseat?
Because of the way the CPU sits, with the springy pins. A minute shift side to side can unseat it.
I had my CPU lose track of a memory channel that way once from very gently changing fans on the CPU cooler while it was on there.
The visible gaps on the cooler just means you apply the paste slightly differently. There's a couple options for it. One way is to spread a minute amount of TIM into the gaps by the heatpipes before pasting the CPU and mounting the cooler.
The other is to spread a thin line perpendicular to the gaps in the heatpipes, with a slight "bulge" of paste by the gaps so that there's extra to spread in.
On February 25 2013 06:40 xeo1 wrote:
ALSO: I took out both rams when I installed the heat sink because it was in the way of screwing in the bolts. so maybe its the rams?
Like I said, also possible. Did you push it in until the retention clips on either side clicked into place? Make sure it's in the right slots?
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I will try another extender cable... hopefully that'll work, but worst case scenario i need a internal card... do you guys know anything about those??
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On February 25 2013 06:40 xeo1 wrote:
ALSO: I took out both rams when I installed the heat sink because it was in the way of screwing in the bolts. so maybe its the rams?
Yes, that seems likely. It sounds like you don't have them seated correctly. Show us pictures.
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Hi, well im building this pc essentially for dota2 and hots, but i want it to run every game nowadays.. :O
this is my build, hope u guys could give me some insight.. if i should change something, etc
CPU: i7 3700k
Mb: Asus® M/B Intel Maximus V Formula A/V/L (1155)
Gfx: Sapphire® Video AMD Radeon HD7970 3072MB GDDR5 Dual-X OC
Hdd: Corsair® Unidad SSD 120GB Sata3 2,5" Force Series 3
Psu: Thermaltake® 850w / 14cm 80Plus Bronze Smart M850w
Ram: G.Skill® DDR3 16GB (4x 4GB) 1600Mhz PC3-12800 RipjawsZ
Cooler: Corsair® WaterCooling Hydro Series H60 High Performance
i accept suggestions :D, hmm will this pc be able to run everything right now?
will it last for 2 - 3 years?
hope u guys could help me
Bye !!
PD: srry my bad english.
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On February 25 2013 09:04 Mathwel wrote:
Hi, well im building this pc essentially for dota2 and hots, but i want it to run every game nowadays.. :O
this is my build, hope u guys could give me some insight.. if i should change something, etc
CPU: i7 3700k
Mb: Asus® M/B Intel Maximus V Formula A/V/L (1155)
Gfx: Sapphire® Video AMD Radeon HD7970 3072MB GDDR5 Dual-X OC
Hdd: Corsair® Unidad SSD 120GB Sata3 2,5" Force Series 3
Psu: Thermaltake® 850w / 14cm 80Plus Bronze Smart M850w
Ram: G.Skill® DDR3 16GB (4x 4GB) 1600Mhz PC3-12800 RipjawsZ
Cooler: Corsair® WaterCooling Hydro Series H60 High Performance
i accept suggestions :D, hmm will this pc be able to run everything right now?
will it last for 2 - 3 years?
hope u guys could help me
Bye !!
PD: srry my bad english.
Why I7 and why 16 gigs of ram? Also you don't have an actual storage hdd unless you're literally just putting a couple of games + os on this computer. I'm not sure of the quality of the PSU but i know it's more than just overkill.
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United Kingdom20321 Posts
3770k instead of 3570k, 16gb RAM instead of 4/8 (depending on preference) at the same frequencies and timings, h60, PSU - you are overspending a ton for literally no gains, unless you have specific use for all of these things.
h60 is a really bad buy for any level of overclocking. At low levels its completely unneccesary - at high it's inadequate, noisy and a bitch in general, being a closed loop water cooler.
16gb RAM, well you have no performance gains from RAM unless you would run out of capacity. I never break 4-5gb or so running multiple games, browser, skype, etc. Why go over 8?
Hyperthreading from i5 to i7 "upgrade" does not change performance in games - i7 does not add anything else, its just wasted money.
850w PSU? You want a quality 450-500w unit, not 850w.
I dont know about the motherboard or the SSD but i wouldnt be suprised if they were bad buys too
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Hey guys, thanks for the help before on choosing the parts. I finished building my computer and it works great. I recently moved my modem into my room and I found out that my on board LAN port does not work (my wireless card does). The lights are not on either. Did I do something wrong when I plugged all the cables in? I activated it in bios and I used the MSI live 5 to update all drives(I think that does the LAN chip?)
Thanks again.
Motherboard
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On February 25 2013 09:15 Cyro wrote:
I dont know about the motherboard or the SSD but i wouldnt be suprised if they were bad buys too
Maximus V Formula is one of those kind of cost-no-objection competitive overclocking boards. Normal Asus ROG high prices.
Corsair Force 3 is one of those 2nd-gen SandForce drives, with mediocre flash (below-average current-gen / last-gen reliability and performance).
So pretty much, you're right.
On February 25 2013 09:22 Beardedclam wrote:Hey guys, thanks for the help before on choosing the parts. I finished building my computer and it works great. I recently moved my modem into my room and I found out that my on board LAN port does not work (my wireless card does). The lights are not on either. Did I do something wrong when I plugged all the cables in? I activated it in bios and I used the MSI live 5 to update all drives(I think that does the LAN chip?) Thanks again. Motherboard
You used an MSI utility for a Gigabyte board? Or did you mean something else?
You got the Atheros LAN driver, for example from here?
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4153#ov
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Yea, that worked. Thanks a lot. I just needed the Atheros LAN driver.
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On February 25 2013 09:15 Cyro wrote:
3770k instead of 3570k, 16gb RAM instead of 4/8 (depending on preference) at the same frequencies and timings, h60, PSU - you are overspending a ton for literally no gains, unless you have specific use for all of these things.
h60 is a really bad buy for any level of overclocking. At low levels its completely unneccesary - at high it's inadequate, noisy and a bitch in general, being a closed loop water cooler.
16gb RAM, well you have no performance gains from RAM unless you would run out of capacity. I never break 4-5gb or so running multiple games, browser, skype, etc. Why go over 8?
Hyperthreading from i5 to i7 "upgrade" does not change performance in games - i7 does not add anything else, its just wasted money.
850w PSU? You want a quality 450-500w unit, not 850w.
I dont know about the motherboard or the SSD but i wouldnt be suprised if they were bad buys too
ups srry this is a repost, so i forget to say that the pc is for streaming too, and i also use sony vegas, rendering, etc.
about the ssd, is for games and the os only, i got another 1TB HDD.
well the cooler, mb the Corsair® WaterCooling Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance is a better option?
well im still open to suggestions so plz keep them coming, i dont want to scew up this build :x
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