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Computer Build Resource Thread - Page 1008

Forum Index > Tech Support
Post a Reply
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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
iKill[ShocK]
Profile Blog Joined July 2008
Vietnam3530 Posts
April 01 2012 03:25 GMT
#20141
dude, man up.
<3 Kim Taeyeon
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-04-01 03:27:37
April 01 2012 03:26 GMT
#20142
On April 01 2012 12:22 xeo1 wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 01 2012 12:17 Myrmidon wrote:
Somehow if there was some really freak and catastrophic failure, the main capacitor on the primary side of the power supply could be connected to the chassis in some way that could discharge into you. It's really only stuff inside a power supply that could be dangerous to a person, assuming the power is turned off. Something around mains voltages or higher is dangerous--everything else is fairly low voltage electronics stuff and not really a concern for your safety.


lol now you scared me.. so what do you recommend


General wisdom is to unplug your PSU, then hit your PC's power button, THEN switch off the PSU. That discharges pretty much everything before you start dicking around with it. Then, as long as you touch something metal occasionally and don't wear wool socks doing it on carpet, you're good.

(Advanced method I don't suggest noobs try is actually just discharging the PSU that way but leaving it plugged in and switched off so it's still grounded, keep one hand on the PSU chassis to stay grounded, and you can sit on carpet and do whatever you need to inside the PC safely. Just don't shift around a lot. Requires lots of experience and a reasonable amount of manual dexterity, but can be a huge time saver.)

Given the subject matter and your name, I find this to be brilliantly ironic...

On April 01 2012 12:25 iKill[ShocK] wrote:
dude, man up.

Josh_rakoons
Profile Joined December 2011
United Kingdom1158 Posts
April 01 2012 03:35 GMT
#20143
Yeah what the hell man, just take the pain like a man..

/sarcasm
minitelemaster
Profile Joined May 2011
United States95 Posts
April 01 2012 03:47 GMT
#20144
Yea, I got shocked pretty bad when I built my first computer. It's part of the learning process, really. My hand is pretty much back to normal now though, so no worries!

Gruesome pictures from ER are in spoiler (not for the faint of heart).

+ Show Spoiler +
I'm joking, I'm joking
Bite my shiny metal @$$
Myrmidon
Profile Blog Joined December 2004
United States9452 Posts
April 01 2012 03:56 GMT
#20145
On April 01 2012 12:20 JingleHell wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 01 2012 12:17 Myrmidon wrote:
Somehow if there was some really freak and catastrophic failure, the main capacitor on the primary side of the power supply could be connected to the chassis in some way that could discharge into you. It's really only stuff inside a power supply that could be dangerous to a person, assuming the power is turned off. Something around mains voltages or higher is dangerous--everything else is fairly low voltage electronics stuff and not really a concern for your safety.


Yeah, but let's get technical here, if that was the case, the LAST thing you want is to have your body be a nice clean conduit to a good ground. So if that happened, you'd want to be wearing rubber shoes, not be using a static strap to ground yourself.

Yeah pretty much. I just meant to say that there's nothing much dangerous in a computer except maybe inside the power supply, which you're not going to get in contact with unless you actually open it up.

Then some general precautions against static electricity as described are probably enough with regards to static electricity harming the components. It's not really a big deal. There are lots of dumb people out there that build computers, so it's definitely not something to be much worried about.
xeo1
Profile Joined October 2011
United States429 Posts
April 01 2012 04:29 GMT
#20146
hm alright well before you guys responded I already unplugged all the cables, touched the metal pc case to discharge myself, and tested it by quickly touching the power supply with my finger LOL.. nothing happened. its good then?

and I read somewhere that the best way to replace it is to have the old psu cables plugged in, replace it with the new psu, and then one by one switch out the cables.
iKill[ShocK]
Profile Blog Joined July 2008
Vietnam3530 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-04-01 11:30:26
April 01 2012 11:29 GMT
#20147
+ Show Spoiler +
On April 01 2012 12:26 JingleHell wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 01 2012 12:22 xeo1 wrote:
On April 01 2012 12:17 Myrmidon wrote:
Somehow if there was some really freak and catastrophic failure, the main capacitor on the primary side of the power supply could be connected to the chassis in some way that could discharge into you. It's really only stuff inside a power supply that could be dangerous to a person, assuming the power is turned off. Something around mains voltages or higher is dangerous--everything else is fairly low voltage electronics stuff and not really a concern for your safety.


lol now you scared me.. so what do you recommend


General wisdom is to unplug your PSU, then hit your PC's power button, THEN switch off the PSU. That discharges pretty much everything before you start dicking around with it. Then, as long as you touch something metal occasionally and don't wear wool socks doing it on carpet, you're good.

(Advanced method I don't suggest noobs try is actually just discharging the PSU that way but leaving it plugged in and switched off so it's still grounded, keep one hand on the PSU chassis to stay grounded, and you can sit on carpet and do whatever you need to inside the PC safely. Just don't shift around a lot. Requires lots of experience and a reasonable amount of manual dexterity, but can be a huge time saver.)

Given the subject matter and your name, I find this to be brilliantly ironic...

Show nested quote +
On April 01 2012 12:25 iKill[ShocK] wrote:
dude, man up.




hehe, old SC:BW clan tag, should've made something else tbh.
<3 Kim Taeyeon
HotCookies
Profile Joined January 2011
Greece149 Posts
April 01 2012 13:22 GMT
#20148
quick question, would it worth it to upgrade Q9550->i5 2500k ?
Alryk
Profile Blog Joined November 2011
United States2718 Posts
April 01 2012 14:30 GMT
#20149
On April 01 2012 22:22 HotCookies wrote:
quick question, would it worth it to upgrade Q9550->i5 2500k ?


Probably... If its the worst piece of hardware, and games don't run fast enough for you, that's the most reasonable CPU to choose. (Idk what your gpu is. ) if games are still fast enough for you, might as well wait. Could always overclock and see if that helps, it would be cheaper than buying a new part.
Team Liquid, IM, ViOlet!
alQahira
Profile Joined June 2011
United States511 Posts
April 01 2012 14:36 GMT
#20150
Depends on what your graphics card is. It is unlikely that your CPU is what's holding you back, unless you have a pretty fast graphics card. If all you care about is SC2, then it may be worth it, since SC2 is very CPU dependent. But at this point you're probably better off waiting for ivy bridge, or even the generation after.

Here is a benchmark comparison. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/50?vs=288 While the benchmarks look very different, if you scroll down to the games you can see that it doesn't have as big an impact.
Cozzak
Profile Joined August 2010
Canada54 Posts
April 01 2012 15:45 GMT
#20151
So I have a 2600k on a P8Z68-V Pro GEN3, 16GB RAM and 750w 80+ Bronze PSU. I also have the Noctua NH-D14 heatsink. When it comes to overclocking, my goal is to get up to 4.7GHz. I've done a little googling and found that quite a few people achieved this with a voltage around 1.38-1.42 (most with a 'worse' heatsink than mine). With this knowledge, can I just dive right in a overclock to 4.7GHz @ 1.4 right away? Or should I work my way up and find a safe voltage along the way?
TheMooseHeed
Profile Joined July 2010
United Kingdom535 Posts
April 01 2012 15:47 GMT
#20152
On April 01 2012 12:47 minitelemaster wrote:
Yea, I got shocked pretty bad when I built my first computer. It's part of the learning process, really. My hand is pretty much back to normal now though, so no worries!

Gruesome pictures from ER are in spoiler (not for the faint of heart).

+ Show Spoiler +
I'm joking, I'm joking


Ahahahaha very good
''Swarm hosts are the worst thing in the world, I mean terrorism is pretty bad but swarmhosts are worse'' IdrA on ZvZ
Ata
Profile Joined August 2011
Canada356 Posts
April 01 2012 16:08 GMT
#20153
On April 02 2012 00:45 Cozzak wrote:
So I have a 2600k on a P8Z68-V Pro GEN3, 16GB RAM and 750w 80+ Bronze PSU. I also have the Noctua NH-D14 heatsink. When it comes to overclocking, my goal is to get up to 4.7GHz. I've done a little googling and found that quite a few people achieved this with a voltage around 1.38-1.42 (most with a 'worse' heatsink than mine). With this knowledge, can I just dive right in a overclock to 4.7GHz @ 1.4 right away? Or should I work my way up and find a safe voltage along the way?


The amount of Voltage is more dependent on the specific CPU that you have, and 1.4 is pretty high if im not mistaking. I am not too informed but I wanted to leave this msg so u hold it off till someoeone else answers.
JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
April 01 2012 16:14 GMT
#20154
On April 02 2012 01:08 Ata wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 02 2012 00:45 Cozzak wrote:
So I have a 2600k on a P8Z68-V Pro GEN3, 16GB RAM and 750w 80+ Bronze PSU. I also have the Noctua NH-D14 heatsink. When it comes to overclocking, my goal is to get up to 4.7GHz. I've done a little googling and found that quite a few people achieved this with a voltage around 1.38-1.42 (most with a 'worse' heatsink than mine). With this knowledge, can I just dive right in a overclock to 4.7GHz @ 1.4 right away? Or should I work my way up and find a safe voltage along the way?


The amount of Voltage is more dependent on the specific CPU that you have, and 1.4 is pretty high if im not mistaking. I am not too informed but I wanted to leave this msg so u hold it off till someoeone else answers.


Yeah, diving right in on an OC is kinda a bad idea. I generally suggest looking up specific info for your motherboard, rather than general settings. That way, when there's some wonky thing in your BIOS, it doesn't trip you up and fry your CPU, which has a tendency of happening to people who try to find generic OC advice.
Cozzak
Profile Joined August 2010
Canada54 Posts
April 01 2012 16:31 GMT
#20155
I found this video and seemed like he went over the details for the BIOS in pretty good detail, so I'd probably just follow it as a guideline for what settings to change/use. I know hes using a different CPU, but as for motherboard thats basically the exact one (mine just has an extra slot on the motherboard, same BIOS I'm quite sure).

JingleHell
Profile Blog Joined March 2011
United States11308 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-04-01 16:47:52
April 01 2012 16:47 GMT
#20156
On April 02 2012 01:31 Cozzak wrote:
I found this video and seemed like he went over the details for the BIOS in pretty good detail, so I'd probably just follow it as a guideline for what settings to change/use. I know hes using a different CPU, but as for motherboard thats basically the exact one (mine just has an extra slot on the motherboard, same BIOS I'm quite sure).
+ Show Spoiler +

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fxXB5iiVS0


Not neccesarily the same BIOS, but better research than most do. I'd personally suggest starting at a milder OC, like 4.3-4.4, something that can likely be done on stock or almost stock Vcore.

If your auto tells you what voltage it's using, use that as a baseline, OC, use a few passes of Intelburntest, and then work your way up slowly from there until you start crashing from insufficient Vcore. Monitor temps while doing this, of course. Once you start crashing, if you have thermal headroom, bump Vcore just a touch, and try again. When you're happy with your OC, run a longer stability test, and adjust as needed.
Alryk
Profile Blog Joined November 2011
United States2718 Posts
April 01 2012 16:52 GMT
#20157
Is the multiplier (47 that he used) = to the clock the processor will run at? (In his case, 4.7)?
Team Liquid, IM, ViOlet!
Shauni
Profile Blog Joined July 2004
4077 Posts
April 01 2012 16:55 GMT
#20158
On April 02 2012 01:52 Alryk wrote:
Is the multiplier (47 that he used) = to the clock the processor will run at? (In his case, 4.7)?


huh? isnt it the multiplier * fsb?
I'm taking whatever coverage I can get, because frankly, I'm busy working on this million dollar deal at my job. Early retirement is a good thing brotha man. - MessengerASL
skyR
Profile Joined July 2009
Canada13817 Posts
April 01 2012 16:56 GMT
#20159
The clock of the processor is determined by the base clock multiplied by the multiplier. So in this case of 100 x 47, yes it would be 4.7GHz.
Cozzak
Profile Joined August 2010
Canada54 Posts
Last Edited: 2012-04-01 17:08:20
April 01 2012 17:05 GMT
#20160
On April 02 2012 01:47 JingleHell wrote:
Show nested quote +
On April 02 2012 01:31 Cozzak wrote:
I found this video and seemed like he went over the details for the BIOS in pretty good detail, so I'd probably just follow it as a guideline for what settings to change/use. I know hes using a different CPU, but as for motherboard thats basically the exact one (mine just has an extra slot on the motherboard, same BIOS I'm quite sure).
+ Show Spoiler +

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fxXB5iiVS0


Not neccesarily the same BIOS, but better research than most do. I'd personally suggest starting at a milder OC, like 4.3-4.4, something that can likely be done on stock or almost stock Vcore.

If your auto tells you what voltage it's using, use that as a baseline, OC, use a few passes of Intelburntest, and then work your way up slowly from there until you start crashing from insufficient Vcore. Monitor temps while doing this, of course. Once you start crashing, if you have thermal headroom, bump Vcore just a touch, and try again. When you're happy with your OC, run a longer stability test, and adjust as needed.


Yeah this seemed like the best choice, thanks Jingle

EDIT: Oh and also, I'm new to overclocking so hold your facepalms if they apply, if the overclock fails (BSOD, or whatever else) I've read something about a CMOS battery thing on the motherboard you have to reset? Is that true? Or can I just reboot and adjust settings?
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