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On May 13 2014 12:17 Coopfreak wrote:I just installed a new WD Green 3TB drive. Everything was fine and I was running a handbrake encode and then...ptssss. Now I can't even boot into the bios if it is plugged into the mobo (via SATA). Without it plugged in everything is fine. Any thoughts or ideas? (much appreciate) MY PC specs + Show Spoiler +CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit)
I had that when I tried installing my SSD. Unfortunately I can't remember how I fixed it (the usual do everything until something works routine).
I might start by looking at what mode the SATA ports thing is in, e.g. IDE vs AHCI. Make sure it's AHCI for the SSD. Um.. if everything works fine without the HDD plugged in, perhaps you could reformat the HDD using the windows tool (the one you get at the start of a windows install), by unplugging everything except the troublesome HDD, beginning to start a windows install, and then only going far enough to reformat that drive.
Not sure if that's feasible if you have important data on your HDD, but it was something along those lines that fixed it for me.
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On May 13 2014 12:17 Coopfreak wrote:I just installed a new WD Green 3TB drive. Everything was fine and I was running a handbrake encode and then...ptssss. Now I can't even boot into the bios if it is plugged into the mobo (via SATA). Without it plugged in everything is fine. Any thoughts or ideas? (much appreciate) MY PC specs + Show Spoiler +CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit)
I guess I should clarify. The SSD is my boot and the the other 2 are storage/media. They're all set AHCI.
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Why can I login on TL.net with Chrome but not with Firefox?
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On May 13 2014 13:52 Coopfreak wrote:Show nested quote +On May 13 2014 12:17 Coopfreak wrote:I just installed a new WD Green 3TB drive. Everything was fine and I was running a handbrake encode and then...ptssss. Now I can't even boot into the bios if it is plugged into the mobo (via SATA). Without it plugged in everything is fine. Any thoughts or ideas? (much appreciate) MY PC specs + Show Spoiler +CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit) I guess I should clarify. The SSD is my boot and the the other 2 are storage/media. They're all set AHCI.
Is the drive making any significant noise or even trying to spin? I would be a bit nervous about it if it was going fine and then there was a PTSSSSSS noise and now the drive is dead.
It does happen - and if all else fails, RMA.
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Any idea how much data watching 1 hour of twitch on 'mobile' quality uses? Gotta watch my data cap when watching streams on the way to work.
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@felisconcolori
It wouldn't do anything at all after the crash. But I don't know for sure cause I couldn't get past the load bios prompt or into the bios itself with the drive plugged in. I RMAed it. 
I just wanted to check if anyone thought there might be an issue with available power from the PSU or something worse before I tried again.?
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On May 15 2014 10:22 drew-chan wrote:
Any idea how much data watching 1 hour of twitch on 'mobile' quality uses? Gotta watch my data cap when watching streams on the way to work.
I'd ballpark around 256kbps for your typical stream.
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Will I be able to livestream with these kind of specifications?
CPU: i3-4130 3.4 x2
GPU: Intel HD 4400 (Later on I will add better!)
RAM: 4 GB
Resolution: 1024x768
Quality: 360p/480p
Bandwidth: 1000~2000
I still don't have this pc, but I want to buy it and use it to livestream
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United Kingdom20335 Posts
On May 16 2014 19:23 Magreidis wrote:
Will I be able to livestream with these kind of specifications?
CPU: i3-4130 3.4 x2
GPU: Intel HD 4400 (Later on I will add better!)
RAM: 4 GB
Resolution: 1024x768
Quality: 360p/480p
Bandwidth: 1000~2000
I still don't have this pc, but I want to buy it and use it to livestream
Yes, Haswell i3 @3.4-3.7ghz is very fast, not sure of exact exact numbers, but maybe even faster than all available AMD quad cores for encoding at stock speeds, even. Be very careful what you are buying though, because an i3 system with integrated graphics, 4gb RAM etc will probably just have a cheap motherboard, power supply etc. You need decent components for proper upgradability, sometimes even case size can be an issue
If you don't have windows updates installed, Windows 7 requires service pack 1 to enable some functions of the CPU which increases performance significantly for video encoding (streaming)
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On May 16 2014 22:08 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On May 16 2014 19:23 Magreidis wrote:
Will I be able to livestream with these kind of specifications?
CPU: i3-4130 3.4 x2
GPU: Intel HD 4400 (Later on I will add better!)
RAM: 4 GB
Resolution: 1024x768
Quality: 360p/480p
Bandwidth: 1000~2000
I still don't have this pc, but I want to buy it and use it to livestream Yes, Haswell i3 @3.4-3.7ghz is very fast, not sure of exact exact numbers, but maybe even faster than all available AMD quad cores for encoding at stock speeds, even. Be very careful what you are buying though, because an i3 system with integrated graphics, 4gb RAM etc will probably just have a cheap motherboard, power supply etc. You need decent components for proper upgradability, sometimes even case size can be an issue If you don't have windows updates installed, Windows 7 requires service pack 1 to enable some functions of the CPU which increases performance significantly for video encoding (streaming)
Thanks, yeah, the PSU is going to be 400W, later on I will add +4GB RAM and some kind of medium video card, it's sad that when I want to dissasemble the pc the warranty goes off... (
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United Kingdom20335 Posts
Thanks, yeah, the PSU is going to be 400W
The quality of the PSU is far far more important that how many watts they say it can push. Many 500w power supplies are unsuitable for a normal 300w load, for example. If you're confident with PC parts, you should probably just build yourself. If you're not, you should consider becoming confident with them :D
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On May 16 2014 23:31 Cyro wrote:The quality of the PSU is far far more important that how many watts they say it can push. Many 500w power supplies are unsuitable for a normal 300w load, for example. If you're confident with PC parts, you should probably just build yourself. If you're not, you should consider becoming confident with them :D
I am scared to risk to build it by myself. :D I don't want to waste my money to something broken or something like that, that's why I buy a prebuilt, later on I can just upgrade it :D
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United Kingdom20335 Posts
Eh, it's pretty foolproof - everything is warrantied, anyway. I'd be much more scared to have parts of questionable value and quality for critically important stuff like motherboard and power supply 
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Yeah, I feel like you have to be pretty damn reckless to damage parts nowadays. I straight up dropped a 280X from 3-4 feet a few months ago and it's still working 100% fine :D (it's part of a mining rig without a case or power button so I use a screwdriver to short the power switch, which I often miss and accidentally poke all kinds of shit I probably shouldn't be poking with a screwdriver).
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From this thread it seems the most common failure has been people attempting to use their mobo without putting standoffs on the case.
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So, I got my Asus R9 280X DCII TOP card back from ASUS. I have no idea what if anything they did to it during the RMA repair, but (knock on wood) it isn't twitching like it was.
Something strange, though - I wiped out drivers, Catalyst Control Center, etc, before I reinstalled the card. Rebooted, then shut down. Reinstalled the card, pulled out the ethernet cable so nothing could get downloaded, and booted up. And it started up fine, it tells me the AMD card has the current drivers under GPU-Z, and I'm confused now. Should I bother reinstalling GPU-Tweak or the Catalyst Control Center? It appears to be working, and I haven't tweaked my GPU run speeds manually so far.
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If you don't have issues leave well enough alone.
If you really want to clear out the leftover drivers, get one of the removal tools that run it in safe mode.
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On May 17 2014 14:10 Craton wrote:
If you don't have issues leave well enough alone.
If you really want to clear out the leftover drivers, get one of the removal tools that run it in safe mode.
I've used ATI driver nuke in the past. It killed my keyboard and mouse, because USB. Got it back - but it was a tense little bit and I fortunately had a PS2 keyboard.
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EPT
