EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 455
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
So far I've tried Chrome Remote Desktop & TeamViewer, both of which do not work headlessly (no monitor plugged in = black screen when remoting) and Hamachi for VPN + the Windows Remote Desktop Connection (RDC). While RDC works, Hamachi does not work unless someone is actively logged in (making it completely useless). Any ideas? | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20316 Posts
On April 14 2014 10:39 Craton wrote: I'm looking for a program that will allow controlling a headless machine remotely. So far I've tried Chrome Remote Desktop & TeamViewer, both of which do not work headlessly (no monitor plugged in = black screen when remoting) and Hamachi for VPN + the Windows Remote Desktop Connection (RDC). While RDC works, Hamachi does not work unless someone is actively logged in (making it completely useless). Any ideas? I know nothing of the subject, but; I've heard people sometimes use dummy plugs when mining etc. Any chance it might help here? | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
I think you can force the detection of a screen for any graphics card but I don't know how you'd do that for the very first screen (looks like this on my Win 8: http://i.imgur.com/CotKsAU.png). | ||
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Craton
United States17254 Posts
I guess I really just need a superior VPN client/server. | ||
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PardonYou
United States1360 Posts
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WellCrap
Sweden122 Posts
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On April 15 2014 06:44 WellCrap wrote: I'm in new york for the weekend, does anyone know if there's a store that has the Noctua NH-U14S? That you can buy it from and pick up, I don't really want to order it online and then have it arrive to the hotel/apartment when I'm back in sweden. You can try Microcennter or Tigerdirect. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Emnjay808
United States10660 Posts
I got new internet today, and I wanted to hard line my connection. The ethernet port lights up green on my computer and the modem, but it still shows this: ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/yc0vtFF.png) The wireless works, I tested a hardline connection to my mom's laptop, it works. Only thing that doesnt work is my ethernet connection. Wireless works fine on my computer too. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
Do you have your motherboard's LAN drivers installed? | ||
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Emnjay808
United States10660 Posts
As far as my mobo is concerned, idk if I have LAN drivers installed. | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Emnjay808
United States10660 Posts
How do I go about installing LAN drivers? | ||
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skyR
Canada13817 Posts
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Emnjay808
United States10660 Posts
On April 17 2014 08:14 skyR wrote: Go to your motherboard manufacturer's website (eg. ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, Asrock, etc), find your motherboard, and download the LAN driver. tyvm, ill do that | ||
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Zyro_Falcon
Singapore3 Posts
http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/c824/b4e7pmg160xa4ji6g.jpg As illustrated here, the Razer Arctosa of the 3 requires the longest key travel to register a key press. At least the first two, unlike the BlackWidow, registers a key release as soon as you relax your finger. According to Razer, their green switch keys do have a release point that is not the same as their 'press' point: http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/3ecb/wyk2cdbi8xw8d1u6g.jpg http://www.razerzone.com/razer-mechanical-switches I love being able to get my keys pressed as fast as possible; I also want to be able to release them equally fast the instant I want to. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20316 Posts
Why don't mechanical keyboards limit key travel to the point needed to register a press, to prevent bottoming out? It significantly changes the feel of the key. You don't usually press a mech switch down 4mm and hold it there. That's one thing that you just don't "get" at first, but it becomes natural after using the board for a day, week or month Release is very very close to the actuation point on browns, red and black AFAIK. Probably some other switches - you can actually actuate and release them more snappily than rubber domes, i think. Blues and greens have the weakness of the actuation point being significantly lower than the release point - it removes much of this snappiness and is part of why i wouldn't recommend them for a primarily gaming board | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
Look at a keyboard that's built like a laptop keyboard instead of a mechanical. The mechanicals intentionally want to recreate the feel of the good old keyboards from 1980 etc. and that's why they are designed this way. The keyboards are simply not for you. The better laptop keyboards use something called a "scissor switch" to make it so it still works right if you press it in a corner by mistake. It looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/3gDBhrA.png Just try a keyboard like that. You should find something good for like $20 or so though it won't have n-key-rollover stuff or anything else gaming. + Show Spoiler [There's actually one mechanical…] + There is a Cherry ML switch which is mechanical and might have a feel you want but there are no keyboards using those except strange ones: The switch (there's a force graph at the end): http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/ml.htm The only keyboards with the switches (there are a billion models with things like trackball and whatnot): http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/Keyboards/Industrial/4100/index.htm | ||
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Zyro_Falcon
Singapore3 Posts
 Yup, I am looking into scissor-switch keyboards too. Don't mind chiclets either. To reiterate, Razer's building their own switches for their mechanical keyboards, so they feel different compared to other keyboards. Their 'silent' orange switches actually have their reset point within 0.05mm of their press point, compared to the 'clicky' green ones (0.4mm). | ||
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