It's literally 2 degrees, with custom fans (stock vs 2 different 3-fan setups, not a single result over 2c gap), according to an ocn thread that you posted in, so you probably read the OP
That's completely irrelevant chances are the mount and thermal paste amount and type the OP used accounts for >5c over optimal anyway. Being 17c above a 212 evo instead of 19c isn't the end of the world
if you want to be extravagant, i7>i5 rather than titan>650ti or 7770
I disagree i7 helps a lot for some stuff, but hyperthreading is worthless in all but a very, very numbered few games. Crazy good GPU can help you out in a ton of games, if you want to max settings and watch framerates fly
He has a titan, probably not worried about $20 on a heatsink deal, besides, it's a great, extremely powerful system, probably not optimal or most cost efficient, but it's damn good. There's little reason to go i7 unless you would actually use the Hyperthreading
Recently I've been getting huge FPS drops (from about 50 to 10) that last for many seconds, especially during combat. My system is above the recommended specs...any idea what it could be and how I could fix it? Thank you.
System Model: Alienware M17xR3 BIOS: InsydeH2O Version 1.0 A12 Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2670QM CPU @ 2.20GHz (8 CPUs), ~2.2GHz Memory: 4096MB RAM Available OS Memory: 4044MB RAM Radeom 6870m
About the NH-D14, you have no idea about the prizes in Norway. Also, there's no Deepcool Assassin in Europe. With Noctua, you're getting quality I'd hope, and you're supporting a business that does stuff like helping customers with mounting kits for new sockets free of charge.
How huge are huge fps drops? Single digits, teens would be a big problem, generally unexpected. If you get heavy drops now and didn't before, then we need to take care of what's recently causing the problem.
Significant drops are to be expected though. You're above "recommended" but that's kind of an arbitrary distinction. The fastest systems in the world can't maintain very smooth motion throughout all of the game.
Frankly, the CPU could be faster. Try going into the graphics settings and turning down the ones that have a heavy CPU impact like physics, to improve performance.
To check if things are working properly, monitor CPU clock speeds (CPU-Z or similar, laptop may come with some tools too) while gaming. If it's below 2.8 GHz, then that's a problem.
edit2: I think either I missed reading something or it was edited in later. Agreed with below post, especially if it's a recent issue. Check temps, but it's very most likely a temperature issue. Clean it out. That said, turning down some graphics settings will still help. You can keep shaders and other things at medium, high, or whatever they were.
edit:
On May 01 2013 23:01 Ropid wrote: About the NH-D14, you have no idea about the prizes in Norway. Also, there's no Deepcool Assassin in Europe. With Noctua, you're getting quality I'd hope, and you're supporting a business that does stuff like helping customers with mounting kits for new sockets free of charge.
btw Deepcool Assassin does exist in Europe under a different brand. It's the Alpenfohn K2. But certainly pricing is not going to be the same, so whatever somebody says about one market may not apply to another.
On May 01 2013 22:57 whiskeyguy) wrote: Recently I've been getting huge FPS drops (from about 50 to 10) that last for many seconds, especially during combat.
It's the cooling, the hardware is throttling because of overheating. The speed picks up again after temperature dropped enough. You need to research how to clean the intake from dust on your laptop.
The FPS drops are significant and started about 2 months ago, though they seem to be getting worse. I thought my old harddrive was ruined (computer would not start) so I purchased another harddrive, but the FPS issues remain. Generally the game holds steady at around 45 FPS but will drop to single digits every few minutes before relieving the bottleneck and getting back to the 45 range. This happens every couple minutes. Perhaps unrelated, I found that when my computer was plugged in and the battery was in, videos (YouTube, elsewhere) became scratchy and slow. I was able to fix that problem by keeping the computer plugged in without a battery.
I downloaded RealTemp 3.7, an application that reveals the CPU's temperature. After using mine for about 12 hours, the last two of which were playing SC2, the temps are in the low 80s Celsius.
It's literally 2 degrees, with custom fans (stock vs 2 different 3-fan setups, not a single result over 2c gap), according to an ocn thread that you posted in, so you probably read the OP
That's completely irrelevant chances are the mount and thermal paste amount and type the OP used accounts for >5c over optimal anyway. Being 17c above a 212 evo instead of 19c isn't the end of the world
If you are referring to Moparman's analysis, he ran a moderate overclock and low voltage (~60*C as a max temp is very low). Double the delta, more than double the difference in temps. Good review, but 2*C easily becomes 4-5*C on a high overclock. Thermal paste can be a bigger factor if comparing extreme TIM like CLU vs ceramique, but comparing modern ceramique vs modern ceramique, no, the difference in the coolers will be larger than the differences in TIM.
Of course, the difference is minor. I'm simply saying the nh-d14, as the weakest high tier, dual tower cooler besides the junk frio extreme, is generally overpriced. It's optimized more to be quiet than to perform well though, with large gaps between fins and a relatively low amount of surface area, but getting better fans than the noctua NF-P12/P14s would do more for sound than heatsink FPI.
It's all about costs so yea, i'm sure he doesn't care about $20. But then, an extra $20 spent on the price he paid for his nh-d14 could have gotten him something like an H100, which will definitely yield you another 100mhz overclock, so that kinda sucks (less on the h100 being low priced, and more on the nh-d14 being overpriced).
About the NH-D14, you have no idea about the prizes in Norway. Also, there's no Deepcool Assassin in Europe. With Noctua, you're getting quality I'd hope, and you're supporting a business that does stuff like helping customers with mounting kits for new sockets free of charge.
It's called the Alpenfohn K2 in Europe, which actually has better fans than the logisys assassin (which is literally just a rebrand of the K2 with worse fans). It's also quite cheap in Europe, actually. Noctua is amazing support, believe me, I've raved many times about how they've sent me free support after showing them my ebay invoice and giving me an AM3 mount and then a week later sending me a 1155 mount when I upgraded, but Alpenfohn also has really good support.
For a gaming build, especially one focused on SC2, it's way better to get an i7 instead of i5, instead of a Titan over a 650TI, in terms of in-game performance, streaming, and not to mention your pockets. Not to say the i7 is much better than the i5, but how little the titan matters over a 650ti. Just go with a 7950, arguably the best value to performance card out there with like 3x more power than sc2 needs, and an i7 and just have an absurd stupid powerful build.
Of course, as we all know, an i5 and a 7770 is really the spot for 'max sc2 out, stream extremely well, spending more money is a waste', but it's silly to have a titan... and then only an i5, especially for an sc2 build.
His i5 system with a titan is going to be quite a bit slower than my i7 with 5ghz/2200mhz RAM with a gtx460 in sc2. Of course, not a huge difference, but depending on his i5 overclock, an considering he has 4x4 ram which you know isn't going to go far at all, it might even be enough to be a noticeable difference.
That's probably normal for a notebook. You also have to look at your graphics card temperature. RealTemp is for the CPU only.
"HWMonitor" is also a simple program. It shows all kinds of things, temperatures for CPU, GPU, hard disk, and also fan speeds. It shows the max value for everything in a table, so you can let it run in the background while you play a game and see what was happening at the worst point.
I don't know what the correct procedure to clean a notebook's fan intake is. I'd play around with a can of compressed air, but there's probably Youtube videos explaining and showing what to do exactly.
You should also take care where you use your gaming notebook. Don't use it on table cloth for example, and make sure the table around and under it is free. There's also laptop coolers. They are some kind of tiny pedestal with fans to put the notebook on. If you are interested, google "zalman laptop cooler" to see what that looks like.
It's usually not the intake that needs to be cleaned, but the fan itself and the heatsink stack (which is on the exhaust side). Ideally you probably want to hold down the fan before blowing any air at it, to stop it from spinning. With the computer turned off, obviously. Blow air into the fan with the fan held down, I think, to hopefully expel dust. Maybe somebody knows better. Well, actually there are two fans on the m17x r3. + Show Spoiler [image] +
Okay, I think some Asus ROG laptops have actual intake dust filters you can pop out, but that's rare.
you can take out the fan and even the heatsink stack, it's all very easy to do. Just make sure to set out 4 pieces of computer paper and set the screws as if on a 'map' so you know where they go. Always recall the order you took apart things. If you aren't a moron it's really easy to do, but every day I get multiple morons coming in who tried to do a very simple repair themselves and just fucked it up so hardcore.
Just be delicate, don't put pressure on the hinges, try not to remove cables, and if you have to, remove them from the base and if it takes pressure to remove then you are doing it wrong. There's also probably a youtube video of how to clean the fan or take out of the fan of your specific laptop.
Yeah, you could take the whole thing apart (and if you do that, could further remove thermal paste and reapply) and clean it the right way. But that's generally not necessary if you just want to do a quick and dirty job, for regular maintenance. You know, enough to stop the lappy from melting on you and more.
I find it easier to clean a laptop fan unit by taking it out, and you don't want to have to re-do the job because you didn't clean it thoroughly enough (which doesn't need to be much, and easy to quickly do if removing heatsink). Usually fan heatsinks are applied with thermal pads. Granted, every laptop is different, sometimes it's too much of a pain to remove the fan because you gotta take the heatsink out and maybe the heatsink is a pain to remove due to the wiring, but the alienware m17, it's very simple and easy to pull the fans out, and given their design it's better to pull them out, do a quick blow, and good to go:
Hi again, ive just installed the Noctua Nh-d14, and it works great! Ive used the AI Suite II Overclock program, it works really great(im a scrub) and I clocked the CPU to 4.312 Mhz from stock 3.6(i think). Ye, money doesnt really matter, so I went for the Titan(cus its awsome and overkill). Im streaming in 720p(dont know if my rig can handle 1080p). Im ofc playing some other games for fun as well =)
Sensorstats from Suite II
Vcore 1.216v 1.35 while playing sc2 +12 v CPU temp while playing sc2 35 celsius Motherboard 29.0c
I'd go as far as it goes. You bought good parts, nothing bad will happen from overclocking it as high as possible. If you like experimenting with the AI Suite thingy, you can use that. When you are done with experimenting and content with something like 4.6 GHz or whatever it turns out the limit will be, I'd take the values from AI Suite and translate them into BIOS settings so that you don't need to keep using the program.
Before you go ahead and experiment, you should read up on what "as high as possible" means exactly, what temperatures are safe and how to find out if the PC runs stable.
Try to avoid the AI suite overclock program. You should avoid software for overclocking anything but the GPU (and maybe RAM timings). The BIOS is just as easy to navigate these days as any program, anyways.
No, your rig won't handle 1080p@60fps (30fps though), although it could have if you bought an sb-e or bought haswell i7 instead of titan. It's still not too late. You could even get a haswell i7, and run a 1080@60fps stream with a slower preset so it would be a little more accessible (big problem with 1080@60fps is the bitrate is so high it hurts accessibility).
You say money doesn't matter, but it does. That's the problem. Even with a titan, the rest of your build is slightly worse, enough so that it actually hurts performance. My i7-3770k system with an h100, a UD5H, a gtx 460, and 2400mhz 4gb RAM, will outperform your system both in sc2 and even moreso in streaming, yet I spent half of just the price of the titan for my entire build. It's all choices with computer components, that's the problem, and diminishing returns on everything. My i7 would outperform your i5 (slightly), my faster ram will outperform your ram (slightly), a better heatsink would actually definitely outperform your system because it'd allow for an increased overclock... that's the problem with budget.
Even if you insist on spending $1500 when it isn't necessary due to diminishing returns, you could have gone for a custom water loop and gained an extra 100-200mhz overclock over an h100 or 200mhz over an nh-d14, high end ram for a 2800mhz RAM overclock (very insignificant, but at least it increases performance whereas titan does nothing to increase sc2 performance), and at least bought a better motherboard (the ud3h is a higher quality board than your asus p8z77-v - asus makes the best high end boards, but gigabyte makes the best mid-range). You gave up having the best EVERYTHING for a card that won't perform any better than some $60 crap card for your intended purpose of playing/streaming sc2 - triple widescreen 2560x1440 monitors, high quality surround sound with a huge subwoofer, an extremely power efficient psu and motherboard, etc.
And the titan actually underperforms the much cheaper 690, it's value comes in being single card, so titan only is worthwhile if you buy 4 of them for Quad-SLI, as the whole point of titan is that it's the best single-card solution (you can only use 2 690s at the same time).
And with a titan, if you are using a 1080 monitor, you are wasting money, you need a 1440 monitor really. There's a difference in 'unlimited money, go for marginal returns' and just wasting money. Titan is a waste of money for sc2, your Titan will not perform any better than my gtx 460 for sc2 or streaming, but my i7 will outperform your i5, my ram will outperform your ram, my motherboard is better than yours, my heatsink is better than yours.
Like I said, bin your chip by going to 4.5ghz@1.3v in BIOS. Then use your ai suite overclock program, and raise your frequency step by step, until your computer freezes/restarts/bsod/crashes/etc, to get an idea of how good your chip is.
Make sure PLL Over Voltage is enabled, by the way. And set your Loadline Calibration to the 2nd highest setting. You have to do this in BIOS, this is another reason why software programs for overclocking are absolutely useless, not to mention they are more unstable, often dont actually get applied, and generally increase your voltage ridiculously high, often without you knowing or doing so.
Once you got an idea of your chip's ability (the max you can make it to is around the max overclock you can do on very high voltage, although your cooler likely isn't good enough to do that max so you'll need to step it down a bit) you can play around. If your chip could make it to 5ghz, try something like 4.9ghz@1.4v and raise voltage or lower frequency as necessary (based on how hot you get), or if you froze at 4.7ghz, then try something like 4.6ghz@1.35v and go from there.
And the titan actually underperforms the much cheaper 690, it's value comes in being single card, so titan only is worthwhile if you buy 4 of them for Quad-SLI
I disagree
Dont tell him
If your chip could make it to 5ghz, try something like 4.9ghz@1.4v and raise voltage or lower frequency as necessary
on an undelidded chip with no idea of binning or temps at a normal load
Ive used the AI Suite II Overclock program, it works really great(im a scrub) and I clocked the CPU to 4.312 Mhz from stock 3.6(i think).
Vcore 1.216v 1.35 while playing sc2 +12 v CPU temp while playing sc2 35 celsius
You should probably go over basics and/or get help
I've been using windows basic theme in windows 7 for a really long time, but i was messing around with themes earlier (windows themes, custom themes, options) and i noticed after playing with them, when dragging a window OR more fatally important, playing a game in windowed mode (not fullscreen), there's a lag on the mouse of a not only noticable but notable level, it feels like at least 10ms or something. I also noticed, when i drag windows, screen tearing does not occur, with windows basic theme on, if i snap a window 2.5k pixels between screens in a fraction of a second over my solid black or usually dark desktop background, i see it tear in like 5+ places, but that doesn't happen with an aero theme
Is there a way around this? It looks and feels like my mouse cursor and window drags are being vsynced or something. It's not possible for me to play Osu in windowed mode like this on the harder maps i am used to, because i am used to near instant response and even if i was used to it, it's enough to significantly handicap skill and completely destroy muscle memory switching between desktop and fullscreen games because it feels completely different to a performance sensitive person
It was my understanding that like 99% of people do not use windows basic themes, are they just all dealing with this and not noticing it because they did not experience better?
And the titan actually underperforms the much cheaper 690, it's value comes in being single card, so titan only is worthwhile if you buy 4 of them for Quad-SLI
Vcore 1.216v 1.35 while playing sc2 +12 v CPU temp while playing sc2 35 celsius
You should probably go over basics and/or get help
Just google 690 vs titan... pretty resounding how the titan is a terrible choice vs the 690 unless you want to get 4 x titans (as you can't do more than 2 x 690s). There are considerations for extreme resolutions, multi monitor setup, on the titan, maybe... but that's getting into a colossal waste of money for very little benefit if that's why you got the titan instead of a 690. If you want to get into power consumption, you really couldn't spend $100 more on a PSU but you could spend hundreds more on a gpu? That would make no sense.
on an undelidded chip with no idea of binning or temps at a normal load
I know exactly what his temps will be with a nh-d14, and I said after he binned his chip. I ran a review on the nh-d14 with noctua support... Non-delidded, nh-d14 stock will handle 1.4v, especially on an i5 instead of i7.
If you use framerate as your only benchmark metric it seems silly to get a titan. That's not real world though, frametime consistency will always be better with single GPU, power consumption and heat is far better, driver support is much less problematic, etc.
The framerate edge is large but not massive for the 690 over the titan; But it's the only edge it has.
I know exactly what his temps will be with a nh-d14, and I said after he binned his chip. I ran a review on the nh-d14 with noctua support... Non-delidded, nh-d14 stock will handle 1.4v, especially on an i5 instead of i7.
After some thinking, i guess so. It's edgy though - my only experience with the hr-02 macho showed temps in the low to mid 80's at 1.3v, and the nh-d14 stock is like, 5-6c better at best? I'm not sure. I think it's silly to try to leap to 5ghz on a non-delidded chip unless you can prime 4.5 on 1.05v like thom did
EPT![[image loading]](http://i44.tinypic.com/1zzm96s.jpg)
