EPTBluescreen is, 99% of the time, just an automatic restart that will take you past bios (so you can jump in and fix settings) but you can set it to not automatically restart so you have to hit the power button after it bluescreens, i never bothered doing that (people do it when stress testing long term if they leave PC sometimes)
Simple Questions Simple Answers - Page 315
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Cyro
United Kingdom20275 Posts
Bluescreen is, 99% of the time, just an automatic restart that will take you past bios (so you can jump in and fix settings) but you can set it to not automatically restart so you have to hit the power button after it bluescreens, i never bothered doing that (people do it when stress testing long term if they leave PC sometimes) | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
On April 21 2013 18:26 waffling1 wrote: So i'm assessing two parameters at once, the turbo multiplier and the voltage. How do i increase them? a bit of one, a bit of the other? what is my safe zone to make a big step, and then start making smaller increases? I will look up a guide. Sometimes guides will tell you what to do without explaining the reasoning. I thought I would try to pick some of that up here before doing so. depends on the core, right? When you get a blue screen and you say "that's that", does that mean i i cannot boot anymore, and i have to use the backup bios? Just read the sin0822 guide i posted lol. Multiplier is how you set the frequency, basically. Increased voltage adds heat (frequency does too but not nearly as much). So you can't just go and set 5ghz@1.5v right away because that might be too hot, you have to take it a bit slow to get a feel for where your CPU and cooling lies, all CPUs sort of act different (what voltage they need for X frequency, how hot they get at X voltage). The first thing you should do when getting a new CPU is 'binning' it, judging how good it is. Boot it at something like 4.4ghz@1.3v (a very low overclock for the voltage), and then use a software program (the one that comes with your motherboard, intel xtreme tuning utility, gigabyte tweaklauncher, etc) and crank it up one multi at a time. If you can make it to 5ghz, 50, without freezing immediately then you got a good chip. If you freeze right when you set, like, 4.6ghz, 4.7ghz, then it's not so good. sin's got a very good and clear guide, but there are other good guides you can read too. Blue screen is a sign of instability, there's absolutely nothing wrong with crashing or getting a blue screen. You would rather crash when testing than during a big game or important file edit. There are millions of ways instability can manifest - prime95 might act funny, programs might close on you weirdly, the screen might flash, your computer might make an extremely loud buzzing noise at you. It's not really important how instability manifests so much that it does. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
In general though, once you are in the late/fine-tuning stage you should NEVER be seeing BSODs. That's something reserved for the initial/rough stage of testing. It comes down to tolerance for instability. IMO, a 24/7 overclock should never exhibit any hints of instability or BSODs if you have properly done your due diligence. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
you know i should really translate all this paper to digital lol. | ||
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waffling1
599 Posts
On April 22 2013 03:08 Belial88 wrote: Just read the sin0822 guide i posted lol. Multiplier is how you set the frequency, basically. Increased voltage adds heat (frequency does too but not nearly as much). So you can't just go and set 5ghz@1.5v right away because that might be too hot, you have to take it a bit slow to get a feel for where your CPU and cooling lies, all CPUs sort of act different (what voltage they need for X frequency, how hot they get at X voltage). The first thing you should do when getting a new CPU is 'binning' it, judging how good it is. Boot it at something like 4.4ghz@1.3v (a very low overclock for the voltage), and then use a software program (the one that comes with your motherboard, intel xtreme tuning utility, gigabyte tweaklauncher, etc) and crank it up one multi at a time. If you can make it to 5ghz, 50, without freezing immediately then you got a good chip. If you freeze right when you set, like, 4.6ghz, 4.7ghz, then it's not so good. sin's got a very good and clear guide, but there are other good guides you can read too. Blue screen is a sign of instability, there's absolutely nothing wrong with crashing or getting a blue screen. You would rather crash when testing than during a big game or important file edit. There are millions of ways instability can manifest - prime95 might act funny, programs might close on you weirdly, the screen might flash, your computer might make an extremely loud buzzing noise at you. It's not really important how instability manifests so much that it does. oh i'm sorry, you,cyro,ropid, and craton explained it very well already. I didn't read thoroughly enough before. ^^ Thanks guys! | ||
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waffling1
599 Posts
"Finally take the hammer and give it a few good solid whacks" lol lol yeah, u should use spreadsheets. i record all my purchasing options on them, calculating shipping and tax costs, build differences if i were to swap this or that, etc. | ||
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S_SienZ
1878 Posts
Thinking about getting her the Acer C7 Chromebook. Thoughts guys? Thus far it seems to be a great bargain. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
edit: Is there any droid app that lets you pull up your video recorder right away? | ||
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S_SienZ
1878 Posts
On April 22 2013 07:40 Belial88 wrote: Why not go for some cheap one off ebay/craigslist, then change the hdd to an ssd? edit: Is there any droid app that lets you pull up your video recorder right away? Ebay / Craigslist in Malaysia is pretty shady, especially the latter. I also don't really see the point of her using any other OS. Acer C7 is only $200, can't find anything near that price point that isn't garbage. | ||
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evilfatsh1t
Australia8606 Posts
so im trying to dl something on tpb, and as we know they only have magnet links. im using utorrent, but it seems that for some reason my utorrent just refuses to use magnet links or something. dht is waiting to log in, the status is "connecting to peers", udp trackers time out and overall the download never even starts. suggestions? | ||
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waffling1
599 Posts
On April 22 2013 09:57 evilfatsh1t wrote: i have a question regarding torrents so im trying to dl something on tpb, and as we know they only have magnet links. im using utorrent, but it seems that for some reason my utorrent just refuses to use magnet links or something. dht is waiting to log in, the status is "connecting to peers", udp trackers time out and overall the download never even starts. suggestions? I had the same problem. utorrent needs to fix this, and t hey haven't yet. Your torrent actually does download, but it will only show after it is complete. Soo.. it's technically functional, but a deal breaker for me. So i did some research and found Tixati. It's pretty good. I recommend it. | ||
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evilfatsh1t
Australia8606 Posts
On April 22 2013 10:20 waffling1 wrote: I had the same problem. utorrent needs to fix this, and t hey haven't yet. Your torrent actually does download, but it will only show after it is complete. Soo.. it's technically functional, but a deal breaker for me. So i did some research and found Tixati. It's pretty good. I recommend it. what you mean it actually does download. am i supposed to sit here for god knows how long until utorrent randomly gives me a notification saying torrent downloads have completed? this is ridiculous | ||
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waffling1
599 Posts
On April 22 2013 10:22 evilfatsh1t wrote: what you mean it actually does download. am i supposed to sit here for god knows how long until utorrent randomly gives me a notification saying torrent downloads have completed? this is ridiculous yup lol. I tested it. It's easy to do, and easy to talk through doing it if you don't understand or want help Bluescreen is, 99% of the time, just an automatic restart that will take you past bios (so you can jump in and fix settings) but you can set it to not automatically restart so you have to hit the power button after it bluescreens, i never bothered doing that (people do it when stress testing long term if they leave PC sometimes) Thanks, Cyro. I will def try it with the guides and what everyone has written so excellently so far. I definitely appreciate your offer. I'll ask for help if I get stuck doing it myself. | ||
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Yorke
England881 Posts
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waffling1
599 Posts
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dae
Canada1600 Posts
Recently my computer system fan (The one that creates airflow throughout the case, not cpu/gpu fan) has been very noisy, and I get the feeling it might be rubbing against its housing, or worn down from doing so to the point where just running is very noisy. I had my computer built for me so I really don;t exactly what type of fan it might be, but there are no wires anywhere near it so its really just a noise issue. How easy would it be to fix the problem on my own or should I bring it in to the place where I bought it and have them fix it (probably for pretty cheap). | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
http://www.overclockers.com/em-spinning-lubricate-pc-fans/ Or just replace the fan. You'd just need to unplug it, unscrew it or otherwise detach it, attach a replacement, and plug that back in. These are in the range of ~$5-25 depending on quality, with the higher half of that range most likely being overkill for your purposes. Check the fan dimensions. Common lengths are 80 mm, 92 mm, 120 mm, and 140 mm (usually square, so width is the same as length), with a depth of 25 mm. What matters is the spacing of the mounting holes (and if it actually fits in the space available), but those are generally just the same for all models of the same dimensions except some 140mm models using standard 120mm fan hole spacings. | ||
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dae
Canada1600 Posts
On April 23 2013 04:35 Myrmidon wrote: Probably the (very most likely a sleeve, or similar) bearing needs some lubrication. You could peel off the label and cap and add a bit of oil. http://www.overclockers.com/em-spinning-lubricate-pc-fans/ Or just replace the fan. You'd just need to unplug it, unscrew it or otherwise detach it, attach a replacement, and plug that back in. These are in the range of ~$5-25 depending on quality, with the higher half of that range most likely being overkill for your purposes. Check the fan dimensions. Common lengths are 80 mm, 92 mm, 120 mm, and 140 mm (square), with a depth of 25 mm. Thanks! | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
When you have the fan before you, there's a sticker on one side. If you remove that sticker, you'll see its electronics and the axle. It will have a plastic ring as a stopper on its axle. That ring is all that keeps its two parts together. You pry off that ring with some violence, and then you can take the fan apart and oil it. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
It'd help if you told us exactly what model your fan was (the sticker should say). If you took pictures, or even showed us exactly what model case you have, what components you have, we could help you even more. | ||
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