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Lakona
Canada110 Posts
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229364 How does it compare to this one? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227472 Main difference is the graphics card, first one says 2 GB, so I assume it's better. Tell me wat to buy TL | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
The second one is a considerably better deal, not priced too much higher than cost of components (including a ~$100 Windows OEM license, assuming you need one). There are multiple versions of GT 620, but they're all bad and roughly about half or a third as good as the HD 7770. The issue is that the second config may or may not really be suited to whatever needs you have, and you can get whatever parts you want assembled for a similar cost (or spend more or less to fit what you need) with some better parts warranties elsewhere, and the power supplies are not so reliable. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
The choices on the second PC seem to make sense. It'll be actually faster in practice, the CPU won't be slower and the graphics card is much better. | ||
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mav451
United States1596 Posts
On April 21 2013 00:25 Cyro wrote: Dual channel, you can support 4 modules. 212+ is good for 4.4, you don't want stock cooler Overclocking on lower end boards is a little sketchy, just make sure you can do what you want to do RAM is so god damn expensive now Haha you should look up how much we paid for 1GB kits of BH-5/TCCD back in the day  Lakona - I'd verify what power supply you get with that second PC. The "SL-400" power supply listed in the newegg picture has me somewhat concerned. Enough that I would budget a replacement PSU to install right away. | ||
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
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Lakona
Canada110 Posts
Huh, clearly there are more variables involved than I had anticipated. Would it be too vague to ask for a recommendation of the best possible performance desktop for the above purposes in the range of around $700-900? Without having to build anything myself. O_O | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Now, my chrome when maximized stays on top of the taskbar, and I can't make the taskbar stay on top! I'm not maximized, I've messed with f11 on/off, and I've deleted the contents of the c/windows/prefetch and ran ccleaner. Purpose - heavy gaming, streaming SC2 12+ hours per day. Huh, clearly there are more variables involved than I had anticipated. Would it be too vague to ask for a recommendation of the best possible performance desktop for the above purposes in the range of around $700-900? Without having to build anything myself. O_O Then you'll probably have to spend somewhere around $1200-3000, just for a very basic, simple computer. You could build a computer that could HD at $200-300 (that's really the bare minimum, but it'll play sc2 just fine and stream 720), but you'll really want to spend $500-700. Check out my build here, I spent $500 for a computer that can stream very high quality: http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=392709 I mean you really need to build your own computer, and overclock it, unless you want to spend a lot of money for mediocre performance. With how streaming and sc2 is, you just have to overclock, and you'll save a ton of money if you just build it yourself, which is really, really simple. You can google very simple guides on how to build a computer, I think you might want to rethink your approach once you realize how easy it is to build a computer. I was quite intimidated at first, too, i thought there was no way in hell I could build a computer. | ||
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waffling1
599 Posts
On April 21 2013 01:23 Lakona wrote: Hey guys. Is this a good deal? Specs seem pretty sick for the price, but I know nothing about these things. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229364 How does it compare to this one? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227472 Main difference is the graphics card, first one says 2 GB, so I assume it's better. Tell me wat to buy TL the 2GB card is not a good card. the second one, 7770 1GB is much better. Use this site to get a general feel for what cards are better, but don't try to separate cards by a few ten points. http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html I'm assuming you're gaming. If so, do not ever buy any graphics card that is worse than anything on that list. Also, the first one is windows 8 while the second is windows 7. You're trading graphics card performance for the newer OS. I don't dig windows 8. here is a good PSU, amazing cost effectiveness. There are better ones in terms of absolute performance and reliability, but this one takes the gold in terms of cost effectiveness in its price range. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7758074&CatId=4324 dual rail, one PCIe connector. It has a lot of protection features so it won't take your other components with it, if it ever dies. review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-VP450-Power-Supply-Review/1487/11 You will want a single rail if you're overclocking. If you're using a graphcs card that requires two PCIe connectors, you will either want to get a PSU that has two, or get a two-Molex-4pin-to-PCIe adapter http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=molex pcie adapter | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
Anyone who has played with the MSI Z77A-G41, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130653 does the board BIOS allow you to set the voltage high enough for this RAM (2.6V - 2.75V)? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231047 Thanks Hey, I actually own an msi z77a-g41, and I've done a ton of benches and testing on it. I can tell you that the board is truly a piece of crap, it definitely lives up to the MSI brand name when it comes to motherboards. I bought it because it was $20 and for a client build. The RAM you chose there, it's not DDR3 lol. You need to use DDR3 ram (not DDR1, not DDR2). DDR3 RAM will always have voltage of 1.35v to 1.65v at the most (some of the very first DDR3 had voltages of around 1.7, 1.8, but basically you'll never see 2v on DDR3 is all you need to know). As for RAM voltage, the board is severely limited - it only lets you set voltage to 1.5v, 1.65v, and 1.85v, which is really odd because most people overclock their RAM to 1.7v, 1.75v. Even 1.8v would be tolerable for 24/7 ram overclocks but 1.85v is on the high side (personally, I'm not even comfortable with 1.85v for 24/7 ram overclocks but then again I'm using very old, very rare ram that's more sensitive to voltage).. The bios also prevents you from adding more a certain amount of voltage, so you basically can only do 1.25-1.35v depending on the stock voltage of your chip (since every chip varies). Which basically means you'll never be able to overclock further than 4.7ghz, even with a really good chip, and you'll be hard pressed to do even 4.5 on many chips. GEIL as a brand is pretty good, lifetime warranty. They are DEFINITELY not no name lol, they used to be the biggest ram company. They've been a bit overtaken by gskill and corsair but many of us still will say geil as one of the biggest ram companies. 'm going to do a mild easy overclock. The computer is for a friend. He has a 13 year old kid who plays some games, but probably not too too heavy. I'm also looking to future proof them in the next 5 years, so I think an overclock is good, or at least the ability to. I have a GTX 650 Ti so that should cover him just fine for most games. It doesn't really much matter whether you go for a mild or easy overclock, that's entirely on the binning of the chip, the motherboard, and cooling you got. If you end up with a golden chip, it'll be as simple as booting up 5ghz@1.3v and it passes 24 hours of prime95 and that's all there is to it and it's stays very cool on a half decent motherboard. You can't just say 'i want a mild easy overclock', i mean it's all luck. Now there's a general idea of how chips average and such - most ivies are 'bad' in the sense they only can do 4.5, maybe 4.6ghz, on reasonable voltage (under 1.45v), but mediocre chips and chips really need decent hardware. If you use a low quality motherboard like the msi z77a-g41, even if you have a very good chip and you want to do a very low overclock (which wouldnt make sense, but whatever), you are going to have a difficult time doing it - the board will overheat before the CPU will so you are going to have to constantly monitor the motherboard, it's riskier, a very low overclock on the msi z77a-g41 or even a pro3 is pushing the board so hard to it's limits that you can potentially damage it or shorten the lifespan of not just the board but of other components. Then, of course, a g1 sniper is complete overkill, that board could withstand voltages of 2v very easily (of course no one is going to do that to an ivy bridge, the cpu wont handle it, but the motherboard could), there's no reason for that much quality because you will never push an ivy that hard. So you buy parts to find a nice balance of 'good enough'. Price is a huge factor as well. You can accept a lower overclock and a more dificult overclocking experience, on, say, the msi z77a-g41 if it's only $20, maybe $30, but like at $60 it's not worth it. Right now the pro4 is $59 at microcenter, which is a pretty good price for it. It's a lower end board, but unless you get a good chip (which is less than 50%), the board will do an overclock fine. It won't be able to do much more than maybe 1.4v (and because of that, you likely won't be able to do much more than 4.7, 4.8ghz)... so you know, if you got a low end chip that's not a big deal. I mean the CPU, the motherboard, and the heatsink can all limit you. So if you have an awesome heatsink, awesome motherboard, but a CPU that can only do 4.5ghz@1.4v, well it doesnt matter how great your cooling or board is because your chip sucks. If you got a good chip like I do, that can do 5ghz, but it isn't golden, so it needs 1.5v to do it, well, I need a fairly high quality motherboard for that, and then I'll need a fairly high quality heatsink for it. My chip was very easy to overclock to 5ghz, it didn't take more than a few days to figure out what exact voltage I needed for it on my z77x-ud5h. Meanwhile, my other chip, I struggled and spent 3 weeks to make just 4.4ghz work on 1.33v on the msi z77a-g41, because the cpu was crap, and the motherboard was crap - even when I had a semblance of an idea of what voltage and overclock I could do, I had to drastically reduce it because the motherboard was so terrible, that it was overheating to over 90*C when my CPU temps were only 60*C. Does that make sense? The msi z77a-g41 is so low quality that it's difficult to work with - at $20-30, it's okay, and losing, say, 300-400mhz (100mhz @ $20-30) on an overclock isn't too bad, especially when you have a crappy chip and you only lost out on 200mhz. However, for my good chip that can do 5ghz@1.5v, I would have lost out on about 700mhz on the true potential of the chip, and 700mhz at $20-30 per 100mhz, means I would 'lose' $140-210 in value by going with the g41! Right now, I'm currently just 'losing' $20-30, because my chip is likely capable of doing 5.1ghz@1.56v. My motherboard is high enough quality to do that easily, but my cooler is not - hence, why I'm currently in the market for a $60-70 high end heatsink, like an H100 ($60 - $40 for selling my nh-d14 = $20, for an extra 100mhz that's worth it, if I can sell my nh-d14 for more or buy an h100 for less, which definitely can happen, that'd be a great deal). RAM OC is, like with everything in overclocking, the more time and effort and knowledge you put into it, the more reward you get, but there are diminishing returns after time (ie cpu overclock is quick and very rewarding, gpu overclock is very quick and very rewarding, lowering voltage takes a little time and is a bit rewarding, ram speed is medium time and somewhat rewarding, ram timings can take as little or much time as you want and minimal reward). There is a tangible reward with RAM oc's but it's not very large unless you have a dramatic overclock. Which, if you know how to shop for RAM, you can actually do without spending anything extra. It just takes patience and a lot of knowledge. yeah 4.4 at most for 3570k. Even for 4.4 GHz, I should use a hyper 212+ at least, and not stock, right? what would make it worth the additional $35 for a better motherboard? It's not for insanely heavy gaming, or likely to be noticed by my friend's family. Performance gains are most noticed in the 4.4 overclock, which can be done with the G41 mobo. They'd definitely want to keep the $35, esp if I can't justify it either As for motherboard, depends on prices. Right now microcenter's best deal is the $59 pro4, although I'd rather recommend waiting a week or two until they have a better deal. Sign up for microcenter's emails, they offer insane motherboard deals every other week that are half of the already insane prices they have on their website. UD5H, a $200 motherboard for $79, the msi z77a-g41 for $20, the ud3h for 90, the lk for $59, etc. | ||
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Craton
United States17233 Posts
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waffling1
599 Posts
What i meant by mild overclock, i guess, would mean without heavy cooling, or extensive testing for seeking out the last 200MHz. so if i get lucky i get lucky. IC. i will avoid G41 then, since Pro3 is similar price. How is the Pro4? i've been signed up for a month or so now, and still haven't seen any insane deals. I got a motherboard email yesterday, but those were just ok. Pro4 for 60, D3h for 65. nothing like half off you mentioned. It's actually email period right now, prices lasting from Apr19-21. I'd have to wait 2 weeks? I can't wait that long for this build for my friend. Yeah I won't touch ram too much. Let me see if i have this right. So assuming heat is out of the eqn, it's the voltage that determines the clock speed. The multiplier is not a speed setter, but just an "unlimiter" The multiplier only raises the limit that tells the comp "do not perform past this freq." Is there a problem with just setting the multiplier to the max, adjust the voltage until you reach your maximum allowable temperature (around 90-95), and then take whatever speed your CPU was running at, and then reduce your multiplier to match it? | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
The default settings are the CPU running at a certain turbo multiplier, all power saving features are on and Windows is allowed to dial down MHz. The voltage fluctuates with load and MHz. The CPU messages the voltage it wants ("VID") and the board provides that ("VCore"). You can keep that behavior and use "offset" overclocking to make the board add something extra to the VCore. You can basically ignore the actual voltage that gets used and only look at the CPU's stability and temperature. You set the turbo multiplier to something like x44 to get 4.4 GHz and increase the offset voltage until you get it to boot Windows. Then you use a test program that runs comparatively fast like IntelBurnTest. In its default program settings, it takes only ten seconds for each repeat and only does ten repeats. You'll be done in two minutes. An offset where IntelBurnTest runs without errors and blue screens might look like "+0.035" for 4.4 GHz (just an example). Repeat this for different multipliers and make a table with multipliers and offsets. There should be a rather linear increase. Those two minute IntelBurnTest runs are not good proof for actual stability, but you can do things like use the offset for the x45 multiplier to run the CPU at x44 and skip a lot of testing. The temperature is what you look at to decide on the highest overclock you are comfortable with. If IntelBurnTest at the max memory setting heats a CPU core to something like 85 C, it'll probably never see more than 65 C in actual programs and games. You also basically can't murder the CPU with too much voltage with an air cooler while avoiding high temperatures, so you can literally ignore voltage and be fine. You should try to find an overclocking guide about the brand of the motherboard. Copy suggested BIOS settings out of that guide. There's for example a setting "Load Line Calibration" (LLC) which should be turned on but has multiple options, and suggestions differ between manufacturers. | ||
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Craton
United States17233 Posts
Whatever multiplier you set tells the PC to run at that speed during load. If your multiplier is 90, it will say 'try to run at 9000 Mhz when performing a task.' It will fail instantly. Working from too high down is the wrong approach. Instead you want to work your way up. You can take larger strides with shorter tests in the lower clocks because it's already well established that you can get pretty good OCs with Ivy CPUs. It's not until like 4.2+ that stock voltage ceases to be adequate (i.e. you must give it an offset boost to get it back stable). If you find during the course of raising your multiplier or voltage that the amount required is too taxing (too much voltage or too much temperature), then you go back to your last seemingly stable clock and run an extended stability test. If stable, you're done. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
What i meant by mild overclock, i guess, would mean without heavy cooling, or extensive testing for seeking out the last 200MHz. so if i get lucky i get lucky. well, you never really need to do extensive testing, you only do extensive testing if you are particular about getting within .05v of the absolute minimum voltage or want to make sure it's absolutely rock stable (24+ hours of custom blend prime95 with no WHEA errors). Otherwise it's about how lucky your chip is. With the way ivy bridge overclocks, a better cooler will always help because ivy bridge is entirely limited by heat, not voltage . basically, you'll never get anywhere near ivy's voltage limits with ambient cooling, even if you delid, which they've found a very safe way to do - by the way, as linked in my sig, there's a 100% safe way to delid now, and 'delidding' will give you a bigger temp drop than higher end cooling; the difference between a low end and high end heatsink will be ~20*C, but the average temp drop from delidding is ~25*C. With what you say about easy, no extensive testing, etc, I'm assuming you dont want to take the time to delid, but still, basically the better cooler you have, the further you can overclock (just that a bad chip might only do 4.6ghz without overheating on anything but a delidded chip with high end cooling). However something low end like a hyper 212+, even if you get a good chip, you won't really be able to push further than 4.6, maybe 4.7ghz. Going by the formula of 100mhz @ $20-30 per, then buying a high end cooler for an extra $20-40 is really worthwhile considering you'll get a good 100-200mhz extra over a hyper 212+ (unless it's a very bad chip, which happens). It's just a question of is the chip good enough to warrant more than mid-range cooling, which is really a coin-flip. But there are other benefits to higher end cooling - lower power consumption (yes, higher temps means you draw more power out the wall, by an exponential amount too), longer life, and even more stability at the same clocks so you need less voltage than otherwise. I mean it's all sort of a guessing game - the difference in a hyper 212+ and an nh-d14 can definitely be appreciated, but an ivy bridge chip really doesn't require a custom water loop unless you don't delid, and even if you don't, it's arguable whether a custom loop's power is really necessary. But a hyper 212+ is a bit too weak, so there's sort of a point with hardware where spending more money doesn't really get you any tangible benefit. IC. i will avoid G41 then, since Pro3 is similar price. How is the Pro4? It's a piece of crap, but at $59 it's amazing. Prices, prices, prices, it's all about the price. The pro4 is decent enough quality to barely do a moderate overclock and the cost is low enough that it's okay if you lose out on 100-200mhz. I mean there's more than just losing a good overclock if the chip is capable of it, if you got a bad chip then you'll have to settle for maybe 4.4 instead of 4.5 or 4.6, even with a low overclock the board will get hot and contribute a bit of heat to the CPU and system. Remember all of the people saying how the 480 is terrible because it gets really hot? Well, the pro4 will do the same thing, it'll get 80*C+ on a moderate overclock and contribute temps. I mean it's not going to significantly overheat the CPU, but you'll have to run case fans at a higher speed and louder to push that heat out, just like with the 480 it has to run it's fan hotter or you need a better cooling on it to keep it cool. I mean you can wait a week or two for microcenter's next email special,they'll probably have a good quality motherboard next week or two for under $100 and that might be a better choice. Really, worst case scenario, just buy the pro4, and if within the month microcenter puts out a better motherboard special, you can always return your pro4 and exchange it. That's what I did - i bought my ud3h for $109, then the ud5h came on special for $79, and I exchanged it and got $30 for a motherboard worth almost $100 more. The UD5H is overkill though, the ud3h has even hit world overclock records, but being paid $30 for a better motherboard is a no brainer (i am bothered that the ud5h lacks a ps/2 port that the ud3h had though!). Let me see if i have this right. So assuming heat is out of the eqn, it's the voltage that determines the clock speed. The multiplier is not a speed setter, but just an "unlimiter" The multiplier only raises the limit that tells the comp "do not perform past this freq." Is there a problem with just setting the multiplier to the max, adjust the voltage until you reach your maximum allowable temperature (around 90-95), and then take whatever speed your CPU was running at, and then reduce your multiplier to match it? Voltage isn't out of the equation though - voltage is the number one contributor to heat. It's all related. I don't know what you are talking about the multiplier for. Multiplier is basically how you set the speed, 5ghz, 4.5ghz, whatever, etc. You can't set the multiplier to the max of 60 (6ghz) because your CPU will crash at 6ghz, lol, it won't be stable at 6ghz unless you use liquid nitrogen. So you set the multiplier to like 50, and set voltage to 1.3v. Oh, you get a blue screen, so now you raise voltage, maybe try 1.35v. Oh, you get a reset and only during a big battle ina game, you try 1.4v. Oh, you can't do that, because your temps go over 95*C, so then you gotta get better cooling or drop the voltage. But you aren't stable on a lower voltage at 5ghz (50 multiplier), so you gotta drop the multiplier so that you are at 4.9ghz. It's a whole process. It doesn't take long, but it can if you want it to and want to find the exact .0001 voltage it takes to be stable. There's tons of things you can play with when overclocking - you can drop PLL, VTT, IMC voltages, you can change the LLC, and that will drop temps, but drop them too much and you get unstable. So it's all up to you about how much effort you want to put into it. Dropping PLL, VTT, and IMC voltages all to very low might afford you about 5*C, so you can see that the results for a lot of work at very minimal. But maybe you are like me, and you are close to the limit of temps, so it's important to spend the time to drop pll, vtt, imc for the maximum overclock you could possibly do. Or, just live with 4.9ghz@1.45v and call it a day. I mean I knew within a day that I could pass 24 hours of prime at 4.8ghz@1.4v, but it took me a week to get 5ghz. Took me about a month to figure out that I can do 5ghz@1.499v, with turbo llc, with 2400mhz RAM with 8-12-8-28, instead of just being happy with 4.9ghz@1.45v with default VTT/IMC/PLL so the temps were the same as my 5ghz@1.5v, and 2000mhz CL7 ram (which I can tell you is a lot slower than 2400 CL8). I mean that's probably about 5-10FPS better when I stream on a slow preset, but it's not major by any means. But I enjoy this stuff. Like I said, your overclock is based on your motherboard, CPU, and heatsink. On my msi z77a-g41 system, which is a little lower in quality than the pro4, if I tried to do 5ghz@1.5v on my i7, which I can easily do with plenty of headroom on both my nh-d14 heatsink and ud5h motherboard, it would literally catch on fire, it would spark, it would be an immediate fire hazard. I am not exaggerating, I have seen plenty of boards do it. It would straight up catch on fire and blow out and spark. I couldn't do 4.6ghz@1.42v on my i5 that I validated on my ud3h because the board would overheat, degrade, and have long term damage and have coil whine and most likely blow out with a small spark, so I had to settle for 4.4ghz@1.33v, even though that's a little more voltage than I could do it on my ud3h. The NZXT Havik 140mm heatsink I had could handle 4.6ghz@1.42v, the CPU could handle it, but the msi z77a-g41 could not handle it, I had to settle for 4.4ghz on it, on a relatively high voltage. I couldn't even overclock the RAM on the board because it was limited in options and had no access to sub timings or a respectable ram voltage, and there was no vtt/imc control so I couldn't run 4 sticks of overclocked RAM. Here's the best ivy bridge overclock guide: http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48359-ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-extreme-ln2-section-guide-included.html | ||
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Rollin
Australia1552 Posts
On April 21 2013 02:39 Lakona wrote: Purpose - heavy gaming, streaming SC2 12+ hours per day. Huh, clearly there are more variables involved than I had anticipated. Would it be too vague to ask for a recommendation of the best possible performance desktop for the above purposes in the range of around $700-900? Without having to build anything myself. O_O The second one is probably fine for your needs, the only way you're going to get better performance is to overclock, which you probably won't want to do if you can't even be bothered putting a basic computer together yourself. The only 'problem' with the 7770 pc is the psu is a little dodgey, but it's probably going to be ok. To be honest you're unlikely to find anything better prebuilt (for that price), but you could buy from ncix.ca and pay $50 for them to assemble it for you. Your decision. | ||
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Belial88
United States5217 Posts
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Craton
United States17233 Posts
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Cyro
United Kingdom20275 Posts
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waffling1
599 Posts
On April 21 2013 11:00 Ropid wrote: You misunderstood something about multipliers and limits and whatnot. It'll simply hang if you use a multiplier that's too high with not enough voltage. For example, it won't run at 4.5 GHz with its default voltage. You will get a blue screen and that's that. The default settings are the CPU running at a certain turbo multiplier, all power saving features are on and Windows is allowed to dial down MHz. The voltage fluctuates with load and MHz. The CPU messages the voltage it wants ("VID") and the board provides that ("VCore"). You can keep that behavior and use "offset" overclocking to make the board add something extra to the VCore. You can basically ignore the actual voltage that gets used and only look at the CPU's stability and temperature. You set the turbo multiplier to something like x44 to get 4.4 GHz and increase the offset voltage until you get it to boot Windows. Then you use a test program that runs comparatively fast like IntelBurnTest. In its default program settings, it takes only ten seconds for each repeat and only does ten repeats. You'll be done in two minutes. An offset where IntelBurnTest runs without errors and blue screens might look like "+0.035" for 4.4 GHz (just an example). Repeat this for different multipliers and make a table with multipliers and offsets. There should be a rather linear increase. Those two minute IntelBurnTest runs are not good proof for actual stability, but you can do things like use the offset for the x45 multiplier to run the CPU at x44 and skip a lot of testing. The temperature is what you look at to decide on the highest overclock you are comfortable with. If IntelBurnTest at the max memory setting heats a CPU core to something like 85 C, it'll probably never see more than 65 C in actual programs and games. You also basically can't murder the CPU with too much voltage with an air cooler while avoiding high temperatures, so you can literally ignore voltage and be fine. You should try to find an overclocking guide about the brand of the motherboard. Copy suggested BIOS settings out of that guide. There's for example a setting "Load Line Calibration" (LLC) which should be turned on but has multiple options, and suggestions differ between manufacturers. So i'm assessing two parameters at once, the turbo multiplier and the voltage. How do i increase them? a bit of one, a bit of the other? what is my safe zone to make a big step, and then start making smaller increases? I will look up a guide. Sometimes guides will tell you what to do without explaining the reasoning. I thought I would try to pick some of that up here before doing so. You also basically can't murder the CPU with too much voltage with an air cooler while avoiding high temperatures, so you can literally ignore voltage and be fine. depends on the core, right?When you get a blue screen and you say "that's that", does that mean i i cannot boot anymore, and i have to use the backup bios? | ||
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Blaec
Australia4289 Posts
On April 21 2013 18:26 waffling1 wrote: So i'm assessing two parameters at once, the turbo multiplier and the voltage. How do i increase them? a bit of one, a bit of the other? what is my safe zone to make a big step, and then start making smaller increases? I will look up a guide. Sometimes guides will tell you what to do without explaining the reasoning. I thought I would try to pick some of that up here before doing so. depends on the core, right? When you get a blue screen and you say "that's that", does that mean i i cannot boot anymore, and i have to use the backup bios? Look up a guide, it is basically turning up speed until it crashes and adding voltage to make it stable. Blue screen just means your overclock isn't at all stable, so you just restart and go back into bios and adjust. | ||
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