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On April 06 2013 17:25 Rollin wrote:Show nested quote +On April 06 2013 16:55 waffling1 wrote:On April 05 2013 13:09 TheRabidDeer wrote:On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
If it boots with it in the mobo, but not with it plugged in, odds are not enough power. Google shows that it needs 35-40amps and a 500watt psu if you are using a higher end system. arg, I went with the 400W. People were saying it was enough for single card systems, even with overclock. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU12/414^ That shows 303 watts (from the wall) for a 5850, and 352 watts (from the wall) from a 5870, under a full gaming load on a hexacore (130W tdp) processor. For reference your cpu has a 77W tdp. The 5830 should be halfway between the two (believe me, it has more draw than a 5850), at say 325W. Note this is full system power draw. Also, the from the wall measure means that before efficiency comes into play you're looking at: 325*0.85 ~= 276W load power on the psu. If include the difference in cpu tdps (bad practice, but it'll do) we get 223 if your system is similar. Not to mention that model is capable of doing over 440w. In short your psu is not an issue unless it's defective. Ignore the idiots that post on the forums. EDIT: Clarity in first paragraph.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_hd_5830_review,11.html
"The monitoring device is reporting a maximum system wattage peak at roughly 325~350 Watts"
"So here's my power supply recommendation:
Radeon HD 5830
The card requires you to have a 500 Watt power supply unit at minimum if you use it in a high-end system. That power supply needs to have (in total accumulated) at least 35~40 Amps available on the +12 volts rails. "
350w + 77tdw for cpu = higher than 400w
Add in USB peripherals, audio, and anything else that draws power and 400w may not be enough (especially if it is a shitty psu, which is possibile with a +12v rail of only 30A). Since hes using a z77 system the mobo might not be bothering to use the gpu at all since it isnt receiving power and thus revers to the integrated gpu. I dont have experience with such a situation but I imagine that is what is happening and why it wont boot when the gpu is plugged in.
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very enlightening. So CMOS holds bios information only. and UEFI is still called BIOS colloquially (or at least as "colloquial" as tech terms will get, haha).
A fresh install requires activation again, right? For migrating doesn't require activation again and the downside is segmentation, right?
I too bought a windows 7 pro upgrade from an XP. I don't recall what my XP was, but as long as I bought the windows 7 pro key, the key i'm seeing on my windows info must be the windows 7 pro one that i'm inputting into the website.
The website is
https://support.microsoft.com/oas/default.aspx?gprid=14019&st=1&wfxredirect=1&sd=gn
1) professional 7 all languages
2) I use it for my own personal use
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On April 07 2013 09:48 TheRabidDeer wrote:Show nested quote +On April 06 2013 17:25 Rollin wrote:On April 06 2013 16:55 waffling1 wrote:On April 05 2013 13:09 TheRabidDeer wrote:On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
If it boots with it in the mobo, but not with it plugged in, odds are not enough power. Google shows that it needs 35-40amps and a 500watt psu if you are using a higher end system. arg, I went with the 400W. People were saying it was enough for single card systems, even with overclock. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU12/414^ That shows 303 watts (from the wall) for a 5850, and 352 watts (from the wall) from a 5870, under a full gaming load on a hexacore (130W tdp) processor. For reference your cpu has a 77W tdp. The 5830 should be halfway between the two (believe me, it has more draw than a 5850), at say 325W. Note this is full system power draw. Also, the from the wall measure means that before efficiency comes into play you're looking at: 325*0.85 ~= 276W load power on the psu. If include the difference in cpu tdps (bad practice, but it'll do) we get 223 if your system is similar. Not to mention that model is capable of doing over 440w. In short your psu is not an issue unless it's defective. Ignore the idiots that post on the forums. EDIT: Clarity in first paragraph. http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_hd_5830_review,11.html"The monitoring device is reporting a maximum system wattage peak at roughly 325~350 Watts" "So here's my power supply recommendation: Radeon HD 5830 The card requires you to have a 500 Watt power supply unit at minimum if you use it in a high-end system. That power supply needs to have (in total accumulated) at least 35~40 Amps available on the +12 volts rails. " 350w + 77tdw for cpu = higher than 400w Add in USB peripherals, audio, and anything else that draws power and 400w may not be enough (especially if it is a shitty psu, which is possibile with a +12v rail of only 30A). Since hes using a z77 system the mobo might not be bothering to use the gpu at all since it isnt receiving power and thus revers to the integrated gpu. I dont have experience with such a situation but I imagine that is what is happening and why it wont boot when the gpu is plugged in.
TDP does not equate to power consumption.
350w is for the system so I don't understand why you are adding the CPU when its already part of the system... If you're running dual CPUs then of course you should have a higher wattage power supply -_-
USB peripherals don't draw power from the 12v rail so this is not relevant.
PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III is a rebranded S12II which is a quality unit.
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I will be buying these components soon:
i5 3570k
Hyper 212 Evo
Gigabyte Z77X-D3H
8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v
I already have these to go with them:
HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB
Samsung 840 SSD 250GB
Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB
My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years?
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On April 07 2013 09:48 TheRabidDeer wrote:Show nested quote +On April 06 2013 17:25 Rollin wrote:On April 06 2013 16:55 waffling1 wrote:On April 05 2013 13:09 TheRabidDeer wrote:On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
If it boots with it in the mobo, but not with it plugged in, odds are not enough power. Google shows that it needs 35-40amps and a 500watt psu if you are using a higher end system. arg, I went with the 400W. People were saying it was enough for single card systems, even with overclock. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU12/414^ That shows 303 watts (from the wall) for a 5850, and 352 watts (from the wall) from a 5870, under a full gaming load on a hexacore (130W tdp) processor. For reference your cpu has a 77W tdp. The 5830 should be halfway between the two (believe me, it has more draw than a 5850), at say 325W. Note this is full system power draw. Also, the from the wall measure means that before efficiency comes into play you're looking at: 325*0.85 ~= 276W load power on the psu. If include the difference in cpu tdps (bad practice, but it'll do) we get 223 if your system is similar. Not to mention that model is capable of doing over 440w. In short your psu is not an issue unless it's defective. Ignore the idiots that post on the forums. EDIT: Clarity in first paragraph. http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_hd_5830_review,11.html"The monitoring device is reporting a maximum system wattage peak at roughly 325~350 Watts" "So here's my power supply recommendation: Radeon HD 5830 The card requires you to have a 500 Watt power supply unit at minimum if you use it in a high-end system. That power supply needs to have (in total accumulated) at least 35~40 Amps available on the +12 volts rails. " 350w + 77tdw for cpu = higher than 400w Add in USB peripherals, audio, and anything else that draws power and 400w may not be enough (especially if it is a shitty psu, which is possibile with a +12v rail of only 30A). Since hes using a z77 system the mobo might not be bothering to use the gpu at all since it isnt receiving power and thus revers to the integrated gpu. I dont have experience with such a situation but I imagine that is what is happening and why it wont boot when the gpu is plugged in.
They only say you need a 500w psu to insulate themselves from people typing in the number they give and sorting by cheapest, for example a raidmax will probably only supply half that much and on occasion catch on fire, but most shit 500w psus can probably handle it, albeit barely.
For starters, they say their system draws 50-100w more than a typical one already. 176 watts is higher than a 650ti and i3-3220 at maximum load, so I don't know what the fuck they have in their system that draws that much idle, but it's goddamn inefficient. His idle would be less that 50w, excluding the gpu.
Secondly, as previously stated, his psu can do over 400w. Look up any decent psu review article and they'll test overloading results, which it does fine in.
Thirdly, that's the draw from the wall, after efficiency losses. As I said earlier, you need to multiply by the efficiency at your current wattage to get the power supplied by the powersupply, which is ~85% of it on a good psu.
Fourthly, the cpu is under some load for those tests, and probably is using as much as his will at high (not synthetic) load, given it's an old review with less efficent technology.
I've already given a better estimate on the last page, these generic reviews aren't actually very helpful at all.
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On April 07 2013 10:29 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On April 07 2013 09:48 TheRabidDeer wrote:On April 06 2013 17:25 Rollin wrote:On April 06 2013 16:55 waffling1 wrote:On April 05 2013 13:09 TheRabidDeer wrote:On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
If it boots with it in the mobo, but not with it plugged in, odds are not enough power. Google shows that it needs 35-40amps and a 500watt psu if you are using a higher end system. arg, I went with the 400W. People were saying it was enough for single card systems, even with overclock. http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU12/414^ That shows 303 watts (from the wall) for a 5850, and 352 watts (from the wall) from a 5870, under a full gaming load on a hexacore (130W tdp) processor. For reference your cpu has a 77W tdp. The 5830 should be halfway between the two (believe me, it has more draw than a 5850), at say 325W. Note this is full system power draw. Also, the from the wall measure means that before efficiency comes into play you're looking at: 325*0.85 ~= 276W load power on the psu. If include the difference in cpu tdps (bad practice, but it'll do) we get 223 if your system is similar. Not to mention that model is capable of doing over 440w. In short your psu is not an issue unless it's defective. Ignore the idiots that post on the forums. EDIT: Clarity in first paragraph. http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_hd_5830_review,11.html"The monitoring device is reporting a maximum system wattage peak at roughly 325~350 Watts" "So here's my power supply recommendation: Radeon HD 5830 The card requires you to have a 500 Watt power supply unit at minimum if you use it in a high-end system. That power supply needs to have (in total accumulated) at least 35~40 Amps available on the +12 volts rails. " 350w + 77tdw for cpu = higher than 400w Add in USB peripherals, audio, and anything else that draws power and 400w may not be enough (especially if it is a shitty psu, which is possibile with a +12v rail of only 30A). Since hes using a z77 system the mobo might not be bothering to use the gpu at all since it isnt receiving power and thus revers to the integrated gpu. I dont have experience with such a situation but I imagine that is what is happening and why it wont boot when the gpu is plugged in. TDP does not equate to power consumption. 350w is for the system so I don't understand why you are adding the CPU when its already part of the system... If you're running dual CPUs then of course you should have a higher wattage power supply -_- USB peripherals don't draw power from the 12v rail so this is not relevant. PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III is a rebranded S12II which is a quality unit.
"Mind you though that our test does not stress the processor, you need to add another 90~125W for a modern quad core processor (non overclocked)."
^ Also in the article. All I know is guru3d suggested a 500w PSU for a high end system of that era using this card, and it likely didnt include peripherals. It is also the only explanation that I can think of for why it works without it plugged in (using intel HD graphics) but not with it plugged in (and the GPU works fine in his other system, so it shouldnt be the GPU).
EDIT: I must misunderstand total wattage on PSU's
DVD drive will use some of that? Yes?
# of HDD's/SSD's?
Audio equipment/cards?
Case fans + LED's?
6 case fans + LED's, a BD-R, a DVD-R, audio card, 2-3HDD + SSD will draw more power from the PSU... right? Also, 6 USB's (keyboard/mouse/wireless card/headphones/controller/etc) will also use some of that power too, right? Or would something else stop working due to insufficient power first?
I still cant find a reason that the GPU would work in another system, but not this system when plugged in if not for insufficient power.
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Rabiddeer you are so off lol.
PSU companies arbitrarily pick values for wattage, and companies assume you are using a piece of crap dell OEM psu, not a high quality psu. Even though, say, a rosewill capstone 450w is only rated for 450w, it will be able to power way more than what a 700w Coolermaster PSU can do. One company will sell a set of components that make up a PSU as 400w, another will say it's 700w. It's a totally arbitrary value.
How many times does it have to be repeated, Quality >>>>>>>>>>>>> Quantity. Guru3d also assumes you are using a dud psu, instead of assuming everyone is using seasonic or superflower based power supplies.
Any single GPU systes will use less than 300w, as in a 350w or 400w PSU is overkill even if it's heavily overclocked cpu+gpu, tons of fans and peripherals (slight exception maybe for something like bulldozer+fermi). 400w is enough for SLI/Crossfire for most cards these days.
It's entirely possible the guy has a derated/faulty PSU or a faulty GPU, but a quality PSU working as intended will handle any single GPU system. You should never look for the wattage of the PSU, you should always be looking at the quality of the unit (ie so quad-sli requires extremely high quality psu).
For example, cx430 & cx500 are exactly the same, xfx pro450, 550, pc&p silencer mk3 400w and 500w, they are all the exact same power supplies just with different extensions. Nothing makes the silencer mk3 500w better than the 400w, they just throw in one less modular pci-e cable in the box.
EDIT: I must misunderstand total wattage on PSU's
DVD drive will use some of that? Yes?
# of HDD's/SSD's?
Audio equipment/cards?
Case fans + LED's?
6 case fans + LED's, a BD-R, a DVD-R, audio card, 2-3HDD + SSD will draw more power from the PSU... right? Also, 6 USB's (keyboard/mouse/wireless card/headphones/controller/etc) will also use some of that power too, right? Or would something else stop working due to insufficient power first?
I still cant find a reason that the GPU would work in another system, but not this system when plugged in if not for insufficient power.
DVD uses a very small amount of power (is he even using one? and it's not 'on' 24/7 anyways), hdd/ssd i believe runs more off other rails, i don't know what you mean by audio equipment, that's part of the motherboard and that's consuming a fraction of an amp, case fans and led's generally consume less than 4w (the exception being an extremely high quality, high power fan like a delta which is like a jet engine and is like $100?).
6 usb devices consume barely any power at all. All the stuff you mention all together would be hard pressed to consume more than 40w with all of them maxed out completely.
If the issue was the power supply was too weak, then it wouldn't simply be that the system won't turn on with the GPU plugged in (gee, you add a GPU and system doesn't work, what could it be.... what could be the most obvious answer?). The system would boot up but you'd have instability on heavy loads. And for a single GPU system, especially an intel based system like he said, he'd be hard pressed to go above 300w ever (and idle/low load/boot power consumption is wayyyyyyyy lower than full load on everything, even gaming you won't push full load on everything). Not to mentoin he has a pc power and cooling silencer which should be good to power much more than just 400w.
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On April 07 2013 10:34 thom wrote:I will be buying these components soon: i5 3570k Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte Z77X-D3H 8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v I already have these to go with them: HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB Samsung 840 SSD 250GB Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years?
Hyper 212 evo is a rip-off. If you insist on going with a piece of crap cooler for an extremely nice set-up (why are you spending only $20 on a cooler yet $200 on your cpu? makes no sense) than go with the Hyper 212+ instead. The EVO is just a lapped 212+ with a much louder, powerful, and obnoxious fan - that ~$9+ price difference is much better spent on a 2nd or better fan and/or high performance thermal paste. So for example, a Hyper 212+ with PK-3 (which is $3), will outperform the Hyper 212 EVO significantly, by a larger margin than what the EVO outperforms the 212+ at stock.
what ram exactly are you going with?
Modstream is not a good psu but it's not bad. I would recommend you just keep it. Or, if you are up for the 'trouble', sell it and use the cash to buy a new psu. Personally that's what I'd do, but I sell and replace everything in my system every 2 months and make a bit of profit. If you aren't as inclined like I am to test things out and don't find it an inconvenience, just stick with your modstream.
Probably a higher chance you buy a new psu and it's faulty than your current one being inadequate for the next few years. Your PSU isn't so bad that I'd worry.
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Simple Question:
I have razer synapse. When I restart my computer, it no longer starts up. I added some ram, made a partition, did some stuff and i dont know why but synapse no longer starts up. If I add it to start-up, what happens is the whole thing opens up.
I don't want that, I want what synapse was doing, it was starting up on start-up and minimizng and being very unnoticeable. I don't want to have to start up synapse manually, i dont want to have to minimize it on start-up either.
And I need synapse, the driver by itself won't let me change hotkeys.
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On April 07 2013 10:34 thom wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I will be buying these components soon: i5 3570k Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte Z77X-D3H 8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v I already have these to go with them: HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB Samsung 840 SSD 250GB Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years?
As mentioned before, MXS Pro 500W is okay, not great. You can keep it.
If you're already tearing apart your build, that's as good a time as any to get a new power supply, but it's hardly necessary. You could sell the OCZ (though I don't think you'd get much for it, really) or keep it as a spare.
And as mentioned, I don't think Hyper 212 EVO is worth like $17 over Hyper 212 Plus or Xigmatek Gaia. I don't have a problem with a $20 cooler on a $200 CPU though. Depends what your usage and expectations are; $20 is enough for a basic 120mm fan tower cooler, and those are decent enough for basic and moderate overclocks.
don't know why I quoted usd prices, was confused
On April 07 2013 11:21 Belial88 wrote:
For example, cx430 & cx500 are exactly the same, xfx pro450, 550, pc&p silencer mk3 400w and 500w, they are all the exact same power supplies just with different extensions. Nothing makes the silencer mk3 500w better than the 400w, they just throw in one less modular pci-e cable in the box.
Just in case somebody reads this and misinterprets it by taking it literally, there are more changes than just the cables, but not really serious ones.
As is common practice, multiple models from the same line use the same design and even the same PCB, so the 400W / 500W / 600W are all very similar. (but note: not the 750W+, which are also Silencer Mk III but substantially different) The higher-wattage models get part upgrades here and there like larger bulk capacitor, maybe an extra switching or rectifying transistor or higher-spec part—that's what allows for the higher power draw. Fan speed curve, OCP / OPP trip points and so on, and some other small details could be changed as well. So the higher-wattage version is not really any higher quality by any substantial amount, and it certainly doesn't cost much more for them to make, but it can legitimately handle more power and it is better to have if that extra capability is actually useful for you.
On April 07 2013 11:43 Belial88 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Simple Question:
I have razer synapse. When I restart my computer, it no longer starts up. I added some ram, made a partition, did some stuff and i dont know why but synapse no longer starts up. If I add it to start-up, what happens is the whole thing opens up.
I don't want that, I want what synapse was doing, it was starting up on start-up and minimizng and being very unnoticeable. I don't want to have to start up synapse manually, i dont want to have to minimize it on start-up either.
And I need synapse, the driver by itself won't let me change hotkeys.
Put it on startup and change the setting to minimize on startup? Or does minimize not work because the behavior you want is to go to tray / notification area and it doesn't do that on minimize?
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On April 07 2013 10:34 thom wrote:I will be buying these components soon: i5 3570k Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte Z77X-D3H 8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v I already have these to go with them: HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB Samsung 840 SSD 250GB Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years?
I'm not an expert, but I used a modxstream 700W for 5 years and it blew up on me a few weeks ago. It took my motherboard out with it. Of course, this is just one data point, and one must keep in mind manufacturing quality and wear from usage varies.
If your mobo doesn't have some sort of surge protection, i'd swap the PSU out. Modxstreams have 3 year warranty, so there is the benefit of having being covered by warranty if you go with a new PSU.
How much could you sell it for? I'm guessing you could easily get at least $30. paying $20 net for a new one. Well worth it imo.You can get a solid psu for around less than $50 after tax and shipping if you find the right deal.
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On April 07 2013 11:28 Belial88 wrote:Show nested quote +On April 07 2013 10:34 thom wrote:I will be buying these components soon: i5 3570k Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte Z77X-D3H 8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v I already have these to go with them: HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB Samsung 840 SSD 250GB Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years? Hyper 212 evo is a rip-off. If you insist on going with a piece of crap cooler for an extremely nice set-up (why are you spending only $20 on a cooler yet $200 on your cpu? makes no sense) than go with the Hyper 212+ instead. The EVO is just a lapped 212+ with a much louder, powerful, and obnoxious fan - that ~$9+ price difference is much better spent on a 2nd or better fan and/or high performance thermal paste. So for example, a Hyper 212+ with PK-3 (which is $3), will outperform the Hyper 212 EVO significantly, by a larger margin than what the EVO outperforms the 212+ at stock. what ram exactly are you going with? Modstream is not a good psu but it's not bad. I would recommend you just keep it. Or, if you are up for the 'trouble', sell it and use the cash to buy a new psu. Personally that's what I'd do, but I sell and replace everything in my system every 2 months and make a bit of profit. If you aren't as inclined like I am to test things out and don't find it an inconvenience, just stick with your modstream. Probably a higher chance you buy a new psu and it's faulty than your current one being inadequate for the next few years. Your PSU isn't so bad that I'd worry.
The 212+ isn't cheaper than the Evo in the EU and generally not sold anymore. The 212+ you can still find are sold for too much, while the Evo's price is influenced by competition as it's CM's current design and sold everywhere.
@thom: Look into Thermalright at amazon.co.uk. The products are generally sold at a very competitive price, and the brand doesn't do fancy marketing. You can get the True Spirit 120 Rev.A for a similar price to the CM 212 Evo, but it's not much better (if at all).
If you want to listen to Belial and go up a little with the price, the True Spirit 140 would be neat if its 170mm height fits in the case. The Macho HR-02 is a similar price, probably a good bit stronger, but even larger and heavier. Amazon.co.uk seems to have a reduced price for the Silver Arrow at the moment, so that could be neat. The TY-140 fan on the £40 coolers has some motor noise at higher RPM. The Silver Arrow SB-E is sold with a TY-141 fan which supposedly fixes some of that, but it has a second TY-150 fan, so who knows how it ends up overall.
EDIT: Browsing Amazon.co.uk at this moment: Noctua NH-D14 at £65, Zalman CNPS12X at £61. The Silver Arrow SB-E has that neat special £50 price at this point in time. Your PC's other parts are all pretty excellent, and those would extend that to the cpu cooler.
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On April 07 2013 12:26 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On April 07 2013 11:28 Belial88 wrote:On April 07 2013 10:34 thom wrote:I will be buying these components soon: i5 3570k Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte Z77X-D3H 8GB (2x4) Memory 1600mhz 1.5v I already have these to go with them: HIS Radeon HD 7950 3GB Samsung 840 SSD 250GB Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB My question regards my PSU. I have an OCZ ModXStream Pro Series 500W that I have used since February 2010. So my worry is its age, and whether it will be reliable enough to use with my new configuration. I know how important a good quality / reliable PSU is, I have had one blow up on me before - so should I buy a new one despite this one working perfectly for 3 years? Hyper 212 evo is a rip-off. If you insist on going with a piece of crap cooler for an extremely nice set-up (why are you spending only $20 on a cooler yet $200 on your cpu? makes no sense) than go with the Hyper 212+ instead. The EVO is just a lapped 212+ with a much louder, powerful, and obnoxious fan - that ~$9+ price difference is much better spent on a 2nd or better fan and/or high performance thermal paste. So for example, a Hyper 212+ with PK-3 (which is $3), will outperform the Hyper 212 EVO significantly, by a larger margin than what the EVO outperforms the 212+ at stock. what ram exactly are you going with? Modstream is not a good psu but it's not bad. I would recommend you just keep it. Or, if you are up for the 'trouble', sell it and use the cash to buy a new psu. Personally that's what I'd do, but I sell and replace everything in my system every 2 months and make a bit of profit. If you aren't as inclined like I am to test things out and don't find it an inconvenience, just stick with your modstream. Probably a higher chance you buy a new psu and it's faulty than your current one being inadequate for the next few years. Your PSU isn't so bad that I'd worry. The 212+ isn't cheaper than the Evo in the EU and generally not sold anymore. The 212+ you can still find are sold for too much, while the Evo's price is influenced by competition as it's CM's current design and sold everywhere. @thom: Look into Thermalright at amazon.co.uk. The products are generally sold at a very competitive price, and the brand doesn't do fancy marketing. You can get the True Spirit 120 Rev.A for a similar price to the CM 212 Evo, but it's not much better (if at all). If you want to listen to Belial and go up a little with the price, the True Spirit 140 would be neat if its 170mm height fits in the case. The Macho HR-02 is a similar price, probably a good bit stronger, but even larger and heavier. Amazon.co.uk seems to have a reduced price for the Silver Arrow at the moment, so that could be neat. The TY-140 fan on the £40 coolers has some motor noise at higher RPM. The Silver Arrow SB-E is sold with a TY-141 fan which supposedly fixes some of that, but it has a second TY-150 fan, so who knows how it ends up overall.
everywhere i've seen, the plus is $10 cheaper than the evo, although the nominal price are the same. Microcenter restocked on pluses. last time i checked, one out of the three retailers newegg, Tigerdirect, or amazon had a $10 rebate as well. if he's talking about EU, then ignore me.
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I think i have to buy an SPDIF cable to connect my optical drive to my GB Z77X-UD3H, since it seems this mobo doesn't have an ATA header. Are ATA headers now being phased out?
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Put it on startup and change the setting to minimize on startup? Or does minimize not work because the behavior you want is to go to tray / notification area and it doesn't do that on minimize?
How would I set it to minimize on startup?
EDIT: Browsing Amazon.co.uk at this moment: Noctua NH-D14 at £65, Zalman CNPS12X at £61. The Silver Arrow SB-E has that neat special £50 price at this point in time. Your PC's other parts are all pretty excellent, and those would extend that to the cpu cooler.
If evo is same price as evo then go for it. Not sure on euro prices but I'd only pay maybe $3-5 USD more for it, so that's like 2-3 euros. I know in europe the HR-02 Macho is really low priced, if that' similarly priced at all, then get that. It's basically a lower level high end heatsink. It's more comparable to an h100 than a hyper212.
Nh-D14 at 65 is a bit expensive. That silver arrow SB-E at 50 is a great price, it's basically an nh-d14 that comes with better fans so definitely worth it if it's cheaper. SB-E means it's mount is only for LGA2011. I happen to know that Thermalright also will NOT give you a free mount (ie if you were to ask for an lga1155 mount), so you'll have to pay ~$9 for a LGA1155 mount but definitely worth it if it's 50 for the silver arrow sb-e.
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Put shortcut in startup, right click -> Properties, Shortcut tab, Run: select Minimized from drop-down menu.
Does that work?
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It won't work, as you suggested (because it won't minimize to tray, it didn't minimize at all).
I'll worry about this later, doing ram overclocks with 2 different sets of ram so that may be part of it. having a few other funny issues as well.
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On April 07 2013 12:33 waffling1 wrote:
I think i have to buy an SPDIF cable to connect my optical drive to my GB Z77X-UD3H, since it seems this mobo doesn't have an ATA header. Are ATA headers now being phased out?
Yes. Nobody wants huge ribbon cables everywhere.
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About the Silver Arrow SB-E, that's not true about LGA2011. It's sold with some kind of universal mounting kit which fits on literally every socket that exists at the moment. I don't know why they chose to add that "SB-E" that looks like "sandy bridge-e". It's also sold for AMD sockets for example. There was a "Silver Arrow" in the past that had less but thicker heat-pipes than the current "SB-E". It looked very different, had a pretty different shape and only four heat-pipes instead of eight.
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S/PDIF is the optical / coax digital audio interface. You probably mean SATA.
Or rather, a new SATA optical drive is like $15-20 anyway. Forget about adapters or using the old drive.
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EPT
