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When a program wants to change something on your computer, a Windows security mode turns on where the screen flickers, your desktop gets darkened and inaccessible, and you're shown a dialog box asking you if you want to allow that. In that dialog box, there's mentioned which entity signed the installation program. I'd only install that suspicious program if it's signed by Microsoft itself.
I mean this dialog box: http://www.neowin.net/images/uploaded/215509_uac-prompt.png
This one is suspicious: http://www.neowin.net/images/uploaded/215509_uac-unknown-publisher-prompt.png
Do you know if your Windows is activated? Right click on My Computer and select Properties. The window that appears shows what's up with the Windows Activation at the bottom. If it's not activated, there should be something to click in that area, and Windows will guide you through what to do next.
I don't know about OEM license and Windows 7, but I think it's not really tied to the PC. You simply have to go through the Windows activation process by phone if Windows decides too much hardware changed. It's simply not quite legal to use an OEM license with a new PC. There's nothing at Microsoft actively searching and pushing for resolving such issues (except for businesses not keeping to the license agreement on a lot of PCs), and you are not really using your Windows on a new PC anyways.
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On April 05 2013 01:23 Ropid wrote:
When a program wants to change something on your computer, a Windows security mode turns on where the screen flickers, your desktop gets darkened and inaccessible, and you're shown a dialog box asking you if you want to allow that. In that dialog box, there's mentioned which entity signed the installation program. I'd only install that suspicious program if it's signed by Microsoft itself.
I can decide those for msyelf. It's all good as long as it doesn't lock my windows OS and I can't use my PC anymore
403 forbidden on both of those.
Do you know if your Windows is activated? Right click on My Computer and select Properties. The window that appears shows what's up with the Windows Activation at the bottom. If it's not activated, there should be something to click in that area, and Windows will guide you through what to do next.
I don't know about OEM license and Windows 7, but I think it's not really tied to the PC. You simply have to go through the Windows activation process by phone if Windows decides too much hardware changed. It's simply not quite legal to use an OEM license with a new PC. There's nothing at Microsoft actively searching and pushing for resolving such issues (except for businesses not keeping to the license agreement on a lot of PCs), and you are not really using your Windows on a new PC anyways.
ah, so i do need to activate it. I heard OEM licences are tied to one machine and if the component it's attached to dies, then you're SOL. Before i press activate, I want to know what happens so I can decide whether to press it or not. So if too much hardware changed, Windows will allow me to use it after talking with them on the phone? That isn't for non OEM licenses?
and you are not really using your Windows on a new PC anyways.
Sorry, I didn't quite clear on what you meant. Do you mean that i'm not doing a new PC because it's my core and mobo that changed?
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So, I had a laptop recently that was a pretty beastly laptop for gaming... but it got stolen from my car so now I am laptopless for school. I dont necessarily need one until Fall since this semester is past halfway over. I think the next one I am going to get is not going to have a discreet gpu (I didnt play many games on it). So, on to the question:
Should I keep my eyes peeled for deals on current gen i7's or wait until the 4th generation comes out? Or should I go with an AMD?
I know I liked the lenovo that I had (though it had more plastic than I wouldve liked), and I hear good things about msi laptops, are there other brands I should look into? I know I am going to avoid acer/dell like the plague.
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I would definitely wait for Haswell laptops over the summer.
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On April 05 2013 05:59 waffling1 wrote:Show nested quote +On April 05 2013 01:23 Ropid wrote:
When a program wants to change something on your computer, a Windows security mode turns on where the screen flickers, your desktop gets darkened and inaccessible, and you're shown a dialog box asking you if you want to allow that. In that dialog box, there's mentioned which entity signed the installation program. I'd only install that suspicious program if it's signed by Microsoft itself. I can decide those for msyelf. It's all good as long as it doesn't lock my windows OS and I can't use my PC anymore 403 forbidden on both of those. Show nested quote +
Do you know if your Windows is activated? Right click on My Computer and select Properties. The window that appears shows what's up with the Windows Activation at the bottom. If it's not activated, there should be something to click in that area, and Windows will guide you through what to do next.
I don't know about OEM license and Windows 7, but I think it's not really tied to the PC. You simply have to go through the Windows activation process by phone if Windows decides too much hardware changed. It's simply not quite legal to use an OEM license with a new PC. There's nothing at Microsoft actively searching and pushing for resolving such issues (except for businesses not keeping to the license agreement on a lot of PCs), and you are not really using your Windows on a new PC anyways.
ah, so i do need to activate it. I heard OEM licences are tied to one machine and if the component it's attached to dies, then you're SOL. Before i press activate, I want to know what happens so I can decide whether to press it or not. So if too much hardware changed, Windows will allow me to use it after talking with them on the phone? That isn't for non OEM licenses? Sorry, I didn't quite clear on what you meant. Do you mean that i'm not doing a new PC because it's my core and mobo that changed?
I mean simply in theory, you could argue it's still your PC, you simply changed some parts. I really think that's all there is as a difference between the licenses: legal arguing, no difference in the actual software tying a product key to specific hardware. You should still make sure this is the case. I'm pretty sure it was different in the past on Windows XP or earlier. Wait for someone else to answer and try to find something convincing through Google. In any case: your Windows will flip out in time. You can't keep using it indefinitely without activating, I'm pretty sure. You don't really have a choice.
The activation process worked like this for me: Windows will tell you a phone number. On the phone, you'll find a robot, not a human. Your Windows will show you a bunch of numbers and you'll have to use the phone's number keys to get those codes to the robot. The robot will then read out a bunch of codes and you'll have to input those at your PC.
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I'm not entirely sure this is the right place to post but, I'd just like to know how well a laptop with these specs [look below] would run SC2, like what fps to expect at different settings and so on. thanks
Specs
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A10-4600M, 2.3 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2 x 4 GB)
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 7660G/7670M double GPU
(1 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
EDIT:
Or would this run better?
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i5-3210M, 2.5GHz
RAM: 6 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 4000
OS: Windows 8 64bit
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Suddenly as of when I started OC'ing, I'm getting random 1500-2000 ms ping to router spikes every 5-10 minutes. WIreless adapter is a PCI one. What could be the problem?
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On April 05 2013 11:23 WedRine wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm not entirely sure this is the right place to post but, I'd just like to know how well a laptop with these specs [look below] would run SC2, like what fps to expect at different settings and so on. thanks
Specs
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A10-4600M, 2.3 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2 x 4 GB)
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 7660G/7670M double GPU
(1 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
EDIT:
Or would this run better?
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i5-3210M, 2.5GHz
RAM: 6 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 4000
OS: Windows 8 64bit
Both not that great.
The first one would have lower min fps as the game wears on and you're trying to micro in large battles, but you could turn up some key graphics settings like shaders to medium or even high with little impact on frame rates. For the second, you'd be stuck with low settings, but you'd probably (unless the cooling is really pathetic and it can't maintain Turbo speeds) maintain better min fps than the first laptop could even on low.
Actual fps varies so much and depends on so many things in game that raw numbers are maybe not that useful anyway.
On April 05 2013 12:16 EtherealDeath wrote:
Suddenly as of when I started OC'ing, I'm getting random 1500-2000 ms ping to router spikes every 5-10 minutes. WIreless adapter is a PCI one. What could be the problem?
Bad drivers maybe. Try newer ones if available. Possibly if it's a spike that long, it's from trying to scan different channels for a different access point. (you can't take a peek around on other frequencies while continuing normal operation in the one you're currently using) Try to turn roaming settings to be less aggressive.
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My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
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On April 05 2013 12:21 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On April 05 2013 11:23 WedRine wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm not entirely sure this is the right place to post but, I'd just like to know how well a laptop with these specs [look below] would run SC2, like what fps to expect at different settings and so on. thanks
Specs
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A10-4600M, 2.3 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2 x 4 GB)
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 7660G/7670M double GPU
(1 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
EDIT:
Or would this run better?
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i5-3210M, 2.5GHz
RAM: 6 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 4000
OS: Windows 8 64bit Both not that great. The first one would have lower min fps as the game wears on and you're trying to micro in large battles, but you could turn up some key graphics settings like shaders to medium or even high with little impact on frame rates. For the second, you'd be stuck with low settings, but you'd probably (unless the cooling is really pathetic and it can't maintain Turbo speeds) maintain better min fps than the first laptop could even on low. Actual fps varies so much and depends on so many things in game that raw numbers are maybe not that useful anyway. Show nested quote +On April 05 2013 12:16 EtherealDeath wrote:
Suddenly as of when I started OC'ing, I'm getting random 1500-2000 ms ping to router spikes every 5-10 minutes. WIreless adapter is a PCI one. What could be the problem? Bad drivers maybe. Try newer ones if available. Possibly if it's a spike that long, it's from trying to scan different channels for a different access point. (you can't take a peek around on other frequencies while continuing normal operation in the one you're currently using) Try to turn roaming settings to be less aggressive.
Can I just turn roaming / auto connecting off entirely?
Also, how do I even go about doing that. Can't seem to find out ~~
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Would a MSI Z77A-G41 support the onboard graphics capabilities of the i5-3570k processor?
I'm trying to build a computer for a friend who doesn't game. I thought I'd skip out on the cost of the GPU, but I need to make sure there is no limitations for displaying normal graphics.
I know the phase labeling convention goes
x+y+z
where x is phases for mobo,
y is phases for cpu
z is phases for processor graphics
if the MSI Z77A-G41 is 4+1 phases, does that mean there is no support at all for graphics?
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Yes, the board will support integrated graphics. Check the specifications page at an internet retailer to double-check the video outs the mobo includes. You might need an adapter if, for instance, you need either HDMI or DVI and the board comes with the other one.
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On April 05 2013 12:38 waffling1 wrote:
Would a MSI Z77A-G41 support the onboard graphics capabilities of the i5-3570k processor?
I'm trying to build a computer for a friend who doesn't game. I thought I'd skip out on the cost of the GPU, but I need to make sure there is no limitations for displaying normal graphics.
I know the phase labeling convention goes
x+y+z
where x is phases for mobo,
y is phases for cpu
z is phases for processor graphics
if the MSI Z77A-G41 is 4+1 phases, does that mean there is no support at all for graphics?
Uh x is for CPU, y is for IMC, and z is for IGP. All Z77 boards support IGP. Most manufacturers do not list IGP phases because its pointless or it's just the same as the phases for the IMC.
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On April 05 2013 12:42 MisterFred wrote:
Yes, the board will support integrated graphics. Check the specifications page at an internet retailer to double-check the video outs the mobo includes. You might need an adapter if, for instance, you need either HDMI or DVI and the board comes with the other one.
why do they omit the 3rd number?
Thanks SkyR
MF, do you know what's causing my booting problem with my GPU? (question 2 posts above the one you answered?) Thanks
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On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
If it boots with it in the mobo, but not with it plugged in, odds are not enough power. Google shows that it needs 35-40amps and a 500watt psu if you are using a higher end system.
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I have the new Samsung NP780z5e-s01ub laptop
Specs:
+ Show Spoiler +
1080p touchscreen
i7-3635QM (quad core + hyperthreading, 2.4Ghz max)
8Gb ram
Intel HD4000
ADM 8770m (with possible driver issues)
5400rpm 1Tb drive (this is definitely a slow drive...)
Possibly there are some known driver issues with the video card, but hard to confirm: details here. (tldr: not actually switching to dedicated card)
Problem:
I was under the impression things would run smoothly at lowest graphics and 720p, hopefully even in 4v4-s based on these benchmarks.
But SC2 lags heavily in late games, even in 1v1 and 2v2 late game is unplayable. At the start of the game FPS is around 50, then it drops to around 30-40 mid game. and can go down to single digits late game as low as 1 and 2 (when 4 max armies are clashing).
Also there are "random" lag spikes throughout the game from the beginning, at specific places even in the menu (like creating a game).
Temps are fine, everything under 60 Celsius according to HWInfo64, so probably no thermal throttling. Power savings settings I believe are also correctly set.
Questions:
a) should this hardware preform better (so should I hope for a driver fix)
b) would an SSD improve performance during games, I understand loadtimes would be much faster (i'm hoping of eliminating the frequent lag spikes, but would generally the FPS improve aswell)
c) any other tips for improving performance
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On April 05 2013 12:21 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On April 05 2013 11:23 WedRine wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm not entirely sure this is the right place to post but, I'd just like to know how well a laptop with these specs [look below] would run SC2, like what fps to expect at different settings and so on. thanks
Specs
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A10-4600M, 2.3 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2 x 4 GB)
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 7660G/7670M double GPU
(1 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
EDIT:
Or would this run better?
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i5-3210M, 2.5GHz
RAM: 6 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 4000
OS: Windows 8 64bit Both not that great. The first one would have lower min fps as the game wears on and you're trying to micro in large battles, but you could turn up some key graphics settings like shaders to medium or even high with little impact on frame rates. For the second, you'd be stuck with low settings, but you'd probably (unless the cooling is really pathetic and it can't maintain Turbo speeds) maintain better min fps than the first laptop could even on low. Actual fps varies so much and depends on so many things in game that raw numbers are maybe not that useful anyway.
Since the 2 laptops i asked about earlier sounded somewhat disappointing I tried to look a bit further and I stumbled upon this one [look below] It's a bit more expensive, but I would like to know if it's worth the extra cost. Would it run better than the others? I'd really like to know what fps I could expect, just a rough estimate would be nice, because I really have no clue at all.
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i7-3632QM, 2.2GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GT 645
(2 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
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On April 05 2013 13:28 WedRine wrote:Show nested quote +On April 05 2013 12:21 Myrmidon wrote:On April 05 2013 11:23 WedRine wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm not entirely sure this is the right place to post but, I'd just like to know how well a laptop with these specs [look below] would run SC2, like what fps to expect at different settings and so on. thanks
Specs
Processor: AMD Quad-Core A10-4600M, 2.3 GHz
RAM: 8 GB DDR3 (2 x 4 GB)
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 7660G/7670M double GPU
(1 GB DDR3 dedicated)
OS: Windows 8 64bit
EDIT:
Or would this run better?
Specs
Processor: Intel Core i5-3210M, 2.5GHz
RAM: 6 GB DDR3
HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA
Resolution: 1366 x 768
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 4000
OS: Windows 8 64bit Both not that great. The first one would have lower min fps as the game wears on and you're trying to micro in large battles, but you could turn up some key graphics settings like shaders to medium or even high with little impact on frame rates. For the second, you'd be stuck with low settings, but you'd probably (unless the cooling is really pathetic and it can't maintain Turbo speeds) maintain better min fps than the first laptop could even on low. Actual fps varies so much and depends on so many things in game that raw numbers are maybe not that useful anyway. Since the 2 laptops i asked about earlier sounded somewhat disappointing I tried to look a bit further and I stumbled upon this one [look below] It's a bit more expensive, but I would like to know if it's worth the extra cost. Would it run better than the others? I'd really like to know what fps I could expect, just a rough estimate would be nice, because I really have no clue at all. SpecsProcessor: Intel Core i7-3632QM, 2.2GHz RAM: 8 GB DDR3 HD: 1 TB 5400 rpm. SATA Resolution: 1366 x 768 Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GT 645 (2 GB DDR3 dedicated) OS: Windows 8 64bit
Exact FPS I cant really say, but it should be way way way better than the others for SC2. imo with laptops it is i7 or dont bother going for a gaming idea for modern games. From what I can tell that cpu is like twice as powerful as the i5 you were looking at and it also has a dedicated GPU which is midrange.
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On April 05 2013 12:22 waffling1 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +
My computer won't boot if I plug in my graphics card.
I bought a new CPU and mobo and PSU
i5-3570k
Gigabte Z77X-UD3H
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 400W
I'm running on this system right now so the mobo and cpu are fine.
My old GPU is Radeon 5830, which I've tested to work fine on my other computer.
When I plug in my graphics card without power cables, relying only on the mobo's power for the GPU, the system boots with the GPU fans running at max constantly.
When I plug in my graphics card with the power cables into the PSU, the PC won't boot.
What should I do to fix it and why is it doing this?
I think I have the drivers correct. (I can't use my windows driver finder because my OEM windows 7 is messed up due to new mobo and resetting CMOS)
I heard unplugging everything including CPU, resetting CMOS and plugging everything back in could work. Why? Is this likely?
Is my PSU wattage too low? It's 30 amps on the single 12V rail. This doesn't seem likely.
Thank you in advance.
Try resetting the CMOS. If that does not work, it could still be the BIOS' fault. As you mention your PC boots with integrated graphics, you might try to flash a different BIOS version. This post has all versions that exist (a letter at the end means beta version): http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/28441-gigabyte-latest-beta-bios-11.html#post274647
You could also try the second BIOS your Gigabyte board has. This is what I'd do first, even before trying to reset the CMOS. The BIOS can hang in such a way that it does not automatically activate the second BIOS chip. You can force the second BIOS chip to be used like this, which is not described in the manual:
1. Turn the PC on
2. Turn the PC off. You might have to keep the power button pressed for four seconds for the PC to turn off. Do not use the switch on the PSU or pull the cable.
3. With the PC now off, hold down the power button and do not let go. Keep the button pressed until the PC is done booting.
The second BIOS chip will take over and present a screen asking how to proceed. Choose the option to overwrite the first BIOS chip.
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EPT
