EPTComputer Build Resource Thread - Page 927
| Forum Index > Tech Support |
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
|
denkan112
Sweden15 Posts
| ||
|
Shauni
4077 Posts
On February 10 2012 11:46 MisterFred wrote: Rachnar... you might be screwed, especially since the computer wasn't starting up before you pulled your CPU out, but since it might help let me share with you my own similar story. I had an old Dell with an Athlon 64 x2. It was getting really loud, which is why I have my new computer (thanks everyone who helped me select components). I was trying to get access to the case fan (which blew directly on an otherwise passive CPU heatsink), but there was a plastic shroud in the way which directed the flow of the air and kept me from accessing anything. I unscrewed all the screws I could find attached to the shroud, but it still seemed stuck on something. I assumed it was some plastic clip I couldn't see where it connected to the case fan housing, so I gave the shroud a good sharp tug. *CRACK* out came the plastic shroud, the heatsink (unexpectedly screwed to the shroud in a way I couldn't see) and the CPU. (I dunno, the thermal paste was some sort of glue or something.) Well, of course I thought the computer was toast. But hell, it was night time and I didn't have anything else to do, so I took a look. Two of the CPU's pins were bent, and during unsuccessful attempts to re-seat the processor I bent four more pins. Nevertheless, I unlocked the CPU socket (as I would have taking out the CPU normally), rebent the damaged pins back into place with the thin tip of a swiss army knife, finally reseated the CPU/heatsink/shroud assembly, rescrewed the shroud onto the case, and locked the CPU socket with the little arm thingy. It worked. I couldn't believe it. Started up on the first try, just as if I'd never physically torn the CPU from the socket with brute force. Of course the computer still sounded like a jet engine, so I replaced it anyway. But I give credit to AMD for making a processor that's not totally fragile. Yeah, I've done the same thing, and it worked after I bent the pins back. It almost always works to bend the pins back on AMDs CPUs. It's a lot more difficult with the intel (motherboards) however... But to avoid it from happening again, always turn the heatsink around sideways instead of pulling it. If the computer has been hot, it usually sticks to the heatsink like glue. | ||
|
Rachnar
France1526 Posts
| ||
|
MisterFred
United States2033 Posts
| ||
|
Medrea
10003 Posts
| ||
|
Shauni
4077 Posts
On February 11 2012 00:37 Rachnar wrote: How's it possible to test a PSU without the rest of a computer? http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components | ||
|
semantics
10040 Posts
On February 11 2012 03:39 Shauni wrote: http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components If you're an EE person you might also just own a multimeter and can properly test it. http://www.devhardware.com/forums/power-supply-units-98/what-s-a-multimeter-how-to-use-it-to-test-75111.html | ||
|
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
This is not to mention the low load behavior of the power supply possibly being much different than the heavier load behavior. | ||
|
semantics
10040 Posts
On February 11 2012 05:22 Myrmidon wrote: "Properly test" is probably much too strong a wording for what you can do with a multimeter, particularly a cheaper one. It's not like those things have the bandwidth to measure ripple and noise. The DC measurements should be in the general vicinity of the correct value, but not too much more. This is not to mention the low load behavior of the power supply possibly being much different than the heavier load behavior. Well you get a bit more then just turning it on, just becuase you got the fan to spin doesn't give you much info. And i know alot more people with high end multimeters then the several thousands dollars worth of the appropriate equipment. | ||
|
Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
| ||
|
Ronanbarbie
United States14 Posts
Graphics card: HD 6850 $169.99 CPU: Core i5 2500k $179.99 (note, I don't plan on overclocking, but this seemed like a good deal. I could get an i5 2400 for 149.99, not sure if the 2500k is worth $30 more when i don't plan on overclocking) Motherboard: LGA 1155 H61 $54.99 ($44.99 MIR) RAM: 4GB DDR3 1333 $26.99 ($21.99 MIR) Hard Drive: Caviar 500GB 7,200RPM $77.99 PSU: TR2 series 500W ATX Thermaltake $44.99 ($34.99 MIR) Case: HAF912 Mid ATX $54.99 ($44.99 MIR) Total: $609.93 + tax = $648.05 With Rebates: $613.05 Please let me know of any glaring errors, and any suggestions you may have about this set up. I'd like not to spend much more than this, if possible. Also, I don't mind ordering from somewhere else, it's just that MicroCenter is relatively close (Boston) and they seem to have really great deals. I know there was a lengthy discussion about PSU's, and I didn't really understand any of it, so if what I've chosen is really poor, I will go with whatever I need to. Thank you! ETA: Sorry, I'm an idiot :/ forgot the DVD burner. DVD Burner $19.99 | ||
|
KneeDeeP
United States256 Posts
Budget- 1300 Resolution- 1920 by 1080 Uses- Pretty Much all gaming Mostly RPG and RTS Upgrade cycle- 2+ years When- Within the next month Overclocking - None Operating System - Will need new operating system No GPU for SLI or crossfire Parts- Best place I have for parts locally is Best Buy so I'm thinking I will use New Egg | ||
|
oo_xerox
United States852 Posts
On February 10 2012 18:41 Boblhead wrote: 75-120 depending if the monitor is decent. I......ladies and gentleman, sold it in FOUR HUNDRED BUCKS. Thank you very much | ||
|
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On February 11 2012 15:33 Ronanbarbie wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hi, I was hoping to build a computer, and the realization came that I really have no idea what I'm doing. I've read this thread a bit, and have been surfin MicroCenter to look at parts. I want to keep the component part of it down to about 600-700 dollars, and I'm going to have to buy a monitor for it but I've budgeted that serparately. I plan to use this mostly just for gaming, and my upgrade cycle is probably long (2+ years). I don't need an OS. Here's what I've come up with so far. Graphics card: HD 6850 $169.99 CPU: Core i5 2500k $179.99 (note, I don't plan on overclocking, but this seemed like a good deal. I could get an i5 2400 for 149.99, not sure if the 2500k is worth $30 more when i don't plan on overclocking) Motherboard: LGA 1155 H61 $54.99 ($44.99 MIR) RAM: 4GB DDR3 1333 $26.99 ($21.99 MIR) Hard Drive: Caviar 500GB 7,200RPM $77.99 PSU: TR2 series 500W ATX Thermaltake $44.99 ($34.99 MIR) Case: HAF912 Mid ATX $54.99 ($44.99 MIR) Total: $609.93 + tax = $648.05 With Rebates: $613.05 Please let me know of any glaring errors, and any suggestions you may have about this set up. I'd like not to spend much more than this, if possible. Also, I don't mind ordering from somewhere else, it's just that MicroCenter is relatively close (Boston) and they seem to have really great deals. I know there was a lengthy discussion about PSU's, and I didn't really understand any of it, so if what I've chosen is really poor, I will go with whatever I need to. Thank you! ETA: Sorry, I'm an idiot :/ forgot the DVD burner. DVD Burner $19.99 Are you limited to buying from Microcenter? Microcenter is only known for having good pricing on processors. The pricing on the rest of the components aren't as good as you make them out to be. The 2400 is 300MHz slower so you can determine whether 300MHz is worth $40 to you. 4GB of memory can be had for $17 on Newegg. You're paying $26 + tax at Microcenter. Radeon HD6850 can be had for less than $140 on Newegg. You're paying $170 at tax... DVD burner can be had for $17 or less on Newegg.. You're paying $20 + tax... That Thermaltake unit isn't good. A 400w unit such as a Antec High Current Gamer or Antec Neo Eco, both are around $45 as well with higher build quality and provides more than enough power for a non-overclocked low-end configuration. The HDD you're getting is a refurbished enterprise drive... I'm not a big fan on refurbished products. I'd just pay $2 more for a brand new consumer HDD. | ||
|
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On February 11 2012 15:39 KneeDeeP wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hey guys was hoping you guys could help me with a good build, Budget- 1300 Resolution- 1920 by 1080 Uses- Pretty Much all gaming Mostly RPG and RTS Upgrade cycle- 2+ years When- Within the next month Overclocking - None Operating System - Will need new operating system No GPU for SLI or crossfire Parts- Best place I have for parts locally is Best Buy so I'm thinking I will use New Egg $939 Intel Core i5 2500 @ $195 (w/ promo code EMCNHNC39, ends 2/13) http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.818460 Asrock H61M U3S3 @ $70 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157236 G.Skill 2x4GB 1333MHz @ $37 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422 HIS Radeon HD6870 @ $155 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161389 Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 x64 @ $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986 Crucial M4 128gb @ $180 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148442 Antec High Current Gamer 620 @ $60 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371048 Coolermaster HAF 912 @ $50 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55583&promoid=1029 Seagate Barracuda 500GB @ $76 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=63468&promoid=1029 DVD Burner @ $16 http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=45244&promoid=1029 | ||
|
ForgottenOne
Romania236 Posts
> HDD SSD OCZ Vertex 2 2.5 SATA2 MLC > HDD SSD OCZ Agility 3 2.5 120GB SATA3 MLC > HDD SSD OCZ Vertex 3 2.5 120GB SATA 3 MLC Should I care for Sata 3? Should I care a lot about the brand or any cheaper will do? I'll be using it for OS, most used programs like browser, local database, local webserver and personal files with which I work a lot. Also I'll have my Dropbox folder on it. | ||
|
skyR
Canada13817 Posts
On February 11 2012 23:21 ForgottenOne wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hey, I need an SSD of 120 GB or 128 GB. Is any of these good? > HDD SSD OCZ Vertex 2 2.5 SATA2 MLC > HDD SSD OCZ Agility 3 2.5 120GB SATA3 MLC > HDD SSD OCZ Vertex 3 2.5 120GB SATA 3 MLC Should I care for Sata 3? Should I care a lot about the brand or any cheaper will do? I'll be using it for OS, most used programs like browser, local database, local webserver and personal files with which I work a lot. Also I'll have my Dropbox folder on it. Yes, you should care about SATA 3 if you are buying a Sandforce. First generation Sandforce (Vertex 2) was SATA 2 and they've had tons of issues. Second generation Sandforce (Agility 3, Vertex 3) is SATA 3 and they had BSOD issues that was fixed with a firmware but some are still experiencing the issue even with updated firmware and RST. Intel, Crucial, Plextor, and Samsung are the recommended brands for reliability. If you don't care than OCZ is fine. | ||
|
Skipvth
Netherlands180 Posts
Installing windows on another HDD right now. | ||
|
Eppa!
Sweden4641 Posts
| ||
|
fatfail
United States386 Posts
| ||
| ||
