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On February 01 2012 07:48 Shauni wrote:Show nested quote +On February 01 2012 07:25 chocopaw wrote:Dear CBRTians  Asking for a friend of mine, is this list decent, would you recommend it? http://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-133583Resolution 1920*1050, no overclocking planned. He will probably go for 8gb ram (why not?) and a bigger SSD (128gb). He has enough storage space, only Windows7 and some games have to be installed. Main questions: Is the mainboard good enough? Should he spend a few bucks more for a better (ASUS?) mb, if so, which one would you recommend? Is the Graphics Card too much/could he go with a cheaper NVIDIA card? If so, which one would you recommend? He'd like to play Battlefield3 on ultra. Any other tips on how to save a few bucks or get a better case/power supply are much appreciated as always. I wouldn't recommend that case. Except for seeming a bit expensive for what it is, cases with so many inside plastic switches and rubber for various things will often malfunction with time. But I haven't built in it and the german reviews seems positive so maybe I'm wrong.
It's a Lian Li. The tool-less card holders isn't plastic, they're metal and they actually work. You can just replace it if you don't like it.
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On February 01 2012 07:56 Myrmidon wrote:If you're talking about the expansion card retention system, I haven't used it either, but it should be metal switches (not plastic) on these Lancool K5x / K6x cases: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1206-page4.htmlA lot of plasticky tool-less systems are prone for failure though, that's for sure. The optical drive tool-less systems, if present, can usually just be replaced by traditional screws if you want though, and certainly to hold it on the reverse side. So that's not as big a deal.
Yeah, it could be a bit irrational fear. I've just had bad experiences building cases with lots of rubber vibrators and special tool-less functions. Not only do they break more easily, but it is also more difficult to replace or repair such cases. Some of the stuff on that case is indeed sturdy metal, like the switches and the PSU fastener, but there is rubber around both. HDD solution too with rubber. Plastic tabs for optional drive. After a year or so of intensive use, rubber things inside cases WILL decay and loosen up, rendered useless. I've always hated those rubber fan fasteners for this reason. But yeah, most of it seems to be able to mount normally too, so I'm just being needlessly harsh. But if you're just going to mount things normally with tools, I don't see what makes that case priceworthy among competition. Also, a lot of people complain about the front panel cords are way too short, meaning you can't even connect most of it with smaller atx boards.
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On February 01 2012 07:35 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On February 01 2012 07:25 chocopaw wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Dear CBRTians Asking for a friend of mine, is this list decent, would you recommend it? http://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-133583Resolution 1920*1050, no overclocking planned. He will probably go for 8gb ram (why not?) and a bigger SSD (128gb). He has enough storage space, only Windows7 and some games have to be installed. Main questions: Is the mainboard good enough? Should he spend a few bucks more for a better (ASUS?) mb, if so, which one would you recommend? Is the Graphics Card too much/could he go with a cheaper NVIDIA card? If so, which one would you recommend? He'd like to play Battlefield3 on ultra. Any other tips on how to save a few bucks or get a better case/power supply are much appreciated as always. Both the Z68 motherboard and 2500k is primarily for overclocking. If you have no intention of overclocking than get a regular core i5 2500 and a H67 motherboard. A Thermalright HR-02 is not necessary for non-overclockers. Get a Superflower Golden Green Pro 450 instead: http://geizhals.de/596382If you want 8gb of memory, get a 2x4gb kit instead of a 4x4gb kit.
As always the question: Which H67? Sorry, got no clue of mbs. A link to Hardwareversand or mindfactory would be great.
Graphics Card is fine? Any alternatives?
Would that setup be good for bf3?
Which case would you guys recommend?
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On February 01 2012 08:24 Shauni wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On February 01 2012 07:56 Myrmidon wrote:If you're talking about the expansion card retention system, I haven't used it either, but it should be metal switches (not plastic) on these Lancool K5x / K6x cases: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1206-page4.htmlA lot of plasticky tool-less systems are prone for failure though, that's for sure. The optical drive tool-less systems, if present, can usually just be replaced by traditional screws if you want though, and certainly to hold it on the reverse side. So that's not as big a deal. Yeah, it could be a bit irrational fear. I've just had bad experiences building cases with lots of rubber vibrators and special tool-less functions. Not only do they break more easily, but it is also more difficult to replace or repair such cases. Some of the stuff on that case is indeed sturdy metal, like the switches and the PSU fastener, but there is rubber around both. HDD solution too with rubber. Plastic tabs for optional drive. After a year or so of intensive use, rubber things inside cases WILL decay and loosen up, rendered useless. I've always hated those rubber fan fasteners for this reason. But yeah, most of it seems to be able to mount normally too, so I'm just being needlessly harsh. But if you're just going to mount things normally with tools, I don't see what makes that case priceworthy among competition.
The optical drive lock is also metal fyi.
Rubber doesn't break down in a year inside a case. I think you're mistaking rubber for some other material.
The Lian Li tool-less locking systems can easily be removed as I already mentioned.
On February 01 2012 08:28 chocopaw wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On February 01 2012 07:35 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On February 01 2012 07:25 chocopaw wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Dear CBRTians Asking for a friend of mine, is this list decent, would you recommend it? http://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-133583Resolution 1920*1050, no overclocking planned. He will probably go for 8gb ram (why not?) and a bigger SSD (128gb). He has enough storage space, only Windows7 and some games have to be installed. Main questions: Is the mainboard good enough? Should he spend a few bucks more for a better (ASUS?) mb, if so, which one would you recommend? Is the Graphics Card too much/could he go with a cheaper NVIDIA card? If so, which one would you recommend? He'd like to play Battlefield3 on ultra. Any other tips on how to save a few bucks or get a better case/power supply are much appreciated as always. Both the Z68 motherboard and 2500k is primarily for overclocking. If you have no intention of overclocking than get a regular core i5 2500 and a H67 motherboard. A Thermalright HR-02 is not necessary for non-overclockers. Get a Superflower Golden Green Pro 450 instead: http://geizhals.de/596382If you want 8gb of memory, get a 2x4gb kit instead of a 4x4gb kit. As always the question: Which H67? Sorry, got no clue of mbs. A link to Hardwareversand or mindfactory would be great. Graphics Card is fine? Any alternatives? Would that setup be good for bf3? Which case would you guys recommend?
Any H67 is fine: http://geizhals.de/640402 http://geizhals.de/616617 etc
GTX 560 Ti, Radeon HD6950 1GB are your other alternatives.
Bitfenix Shinobi: http://geizhals.de/620861
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On February 01 2012 08:28 chocopaw wrote:Show nested quote +On February 01 2012 07:35 skyR wrote:On February 01 2012 07:25 chocopaw wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Dear CBRTians Asking for a friend of mine, is this list decent, would you recommend it? http://geizhals.de/?cat=WL-133583Resolution 1920*1050, no overclocking planned. He will probably go for 8gb ram (why not?) and a bigger SSD (128gb). He has enough storage space, only Windows7 and some games have to be installed. Main questions: Is the mainboard good enough? Should he spend a few bucks more for a better (ASUS?) mb, if so, which one would you recommend? Is the Graphics Card too much/could he go with a cheaper NVIDIA card? If so, which one would you recommend? He'd like to play Battlefield3 on ultra. Any other tips on how to save a few bucks or get a better case/power supply are much appreciated as always. Both the Z68 motherboard and 2500k is primarily for overclocking. If you have no intention of overclocking than get a regular core i5 2500 and a H67 motherboard. A Thermalright HR-02 is not necessary for non-overclockers. Get a Superflower Golden Green Pro 450 instead: http://geizhals.de/596382If you want 8gb of memory, get a 2x4gb kit instead of a 4x4gb kit. As always the question: Which H67? Sorry, got no clue of mbs. A link to Hardwareversand or mindfactory would be great. Graphics Card is fine? Any alternatives? Would that setup be good for bf3? Which case would you guys recommend?
*edit* oh nevermind i thought you asked "what's" h67.
As for case, for something more sturdy, NZXT H2 or Fractal Design R3 are good choices. But slightly more expensive too.
I would still choose Antec Three Hundred over that lancool case, but thats just my personal opinion.
On February 01 2012 08:37 skyR wrote:
Rubber doesn't break down in a year inside a case. I think you're mistaking rubber for some other material.
I don't think so. Rubber 'dries up' and loses the elastic touch after being exposed to longterm warmth. This might not be so visible for thick rubber, but things like rubber support for screws, fan fasteners and the likes definitely loosen up and fall off.
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I am on the verge of buying a new desktop after 4 years, after some googling and reading this thread I came up with this. I am however lacking a HDD and PSU, though I don't want to exceed my 1000e budget. Give me some tips mates what can I improve?
Case: Corsair Carbide 500R, noPSU, Black +119 euro
MB: GigaByte GA-Z68X-UD3H, S115, Z68, 4xDDR3, ATX +129 euro
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500, 3.30Ghz, 6MB, HD2000, S115 +195 euro
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 2 Rev.B +39 euro
SSD: Plextor M2P 128GB 2.5" SATA3 +189 euro
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 +48 euro
GFX: Club 3D Radeon HD 6870, 1024MB +174 euro
PSU: ?
HDD: ?
Total: 893e
Cheers Ziph.
edit: I do not plan on overclocking or anything, I just want it to be really stable, plan on using it to play TERA and school (MATLAB/CATIA).
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5930 Posts
I don't think so. Rubber 'dries up' and loses the elastic touch after being exposed to warmth. This might not be so visible for thick rubber, but things like rubber support for screws, fan fasteners and the likes definitely loosen up and fall off.
If you want to be terrified of everything, go ahead. The rest of us will just use rubber and enjoy the dampening benefits.
Edit:
Hard mounting hardware introduces vibrations to the case and proper gooey silicon is only encountered on the Antec Performance One series of cases. Everyone else uses rubber whether you like it or not.
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On February 01 2012 08:41 ZiphV5.0 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I am on the verge of buying a new desktop after 4 years, after some googling and reading this thread I came up with this. I am however lacking a HDD and PSU, though I don't want to exceed my 1000e budget. Give me some tips mates what can I improve?
Case: Corsair Carbide 500R, noPSU, Black +119 euro
MB: GigaByte GA-Z68X-UD3H, S115, Z68, 4xDDR3, ATX +129 euro
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500, 3.30Ghz, 6MB, HD2000, S115 +195 euro
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 2 Rev.B +39 euro
SSD: Plextor M2P 128GB 2.5" SATA3 +189 euro
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 +48 euro
GFX: Club 3D Radeon HD 6870, 1024MB +174 euro
PSU: ?
HDD: ?
Total: 893e
Cheers Ziph.
edit: I do not plan on overclocking or anything, I just want it to be really stable, plan on using it to play TERA and school (MATLAB/CATIA).
You do not need a Z68 motherboard if you are not overclocking. Get a H67 motherboard instead.
M2P is also an older model. Newer models such as the Crucial M4 and Plextor M3 will be faster and probably cheaper as well.
You do not need Corsair Vengeance memory or 1600MHz. Just get a 1333MHz cas9 kit.
You do not need a Scythe Mugen 2 if you are not overclocking. The Intel provided heatsink is fine.
Since you have a SSD, just get any Caviar Green or inexpensive HDD for storage.
A Super Flower Golden Green Pro 450 or similar is fine for this configuration.
On February 01 2012 08:40 Shauni wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On February 01 2012 08:37 skyR wrote:
Rubber doesn't break down in a year inside a case. I think you're mistaking rubber for some other material.
I don't think so. Rubber 'dries up' and loses the elastic touch after being exposed to longterm warmth. This might not be so visible for thick rubber, but things like rubber support for screws, fan fasteners and the likes definitely loosen up and fall off.
All the top manufacturers (Antec, Corsair, Lian Li, Silverstone) use rubber for mounting HDDs and I haven't experienced it nor seen anyone complain about rubber breaking down.
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On February 01 2012 08:56 Womwomwom wrote:Show nested quote +I don't think so. Rubber 'dries up' and loses the elastic touch after being exposed to warmth. This might not be so visible for thick rubber, but things like rubber support for screws, fan fasteners and the likes definitely loosen up and fall off. If you want to be terrified of everything, go ahead. The rest of us will just use rubber and enjoy the dampening benefits. Edit: Hard mounting hardware introduces vibrations to the case and proper gooey silicon is only encountered on the Antec Performance One series of cases. Everyone else uses rubber whether you like it or not.
Obviously rubber has its advantages for vibration and dampening but I was just saying it's generally not a good solution for long term usage. I've had two AC Freezer Pro for CPU cooling and both of them had the rubber fasteners fall off after a few years. I encountered the same thing for chassis fans with such mountings and rubber straps for HDD mounting in cases. Although heat isn't as big of a problem with HDD rubber, so maybe that's why it's not as problematic for most people. I refuse to believe it's just me with this issue however.
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5930 Posts
Yes a few years. A few years is a very long time. That is a solution for long term use.
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On February 01 2012 09:12 Womwomwom wrote:
Yes a few years. A few years is a very long time. That is a solution for long term use.
What do you mean exactly? Why not build a computer with parts to last more than a few years?
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A few years is more than one and less than infinity. Regardless, a case is going to last forever unless you do something stupid to it.
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5930 Posts
Lian Li gives you a billion hard drive grommits and screws. Most manufacturers do. If you do somehow run out, you contact the company and they give you new ones.
This is ignoring the fact that its very difficult to actually break the rubber grommits if you don't constantly move them in and out (there is no reason do anyway so...).
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OP please add the 7970 to the list!
Anyone have any experience overclocking it? I can't get a straight answer from OCN. MSI afterburner, trixx, ccc?? I'm running 1080/1575 but i want to push it more
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I'm looking for a cheap 2.0 or perhaps 2.1 speaker system for ~$30-$50. Portability is not a concern. I remember seeing a guide on an audio (or maybe pc building) forum about buying budget speaker systems but unfortunately I've been unable to find it again. Does anyone have any recommendations?
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600W is enough to run two and sometimes three of that system so I would consider dropping to a 450W CAPSTONE or whatever SkyR recommended. Stick with everything SkyR recommends.
Unless thats what I assume your brother said. If he actually said volts he is an idiot and you would be way better off ignoring his advice. No offense.
I dont, really see what processor you are using, the configuration in the top link is dead so I cant see it. I will take a few moments and try to dig it up what you are talking about.
I cant really make out the rest of your word salad.
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OK I went through your post history and I have a better picture on what is going on here.
SkyR recommended the capstone, his recommendation is spot on.
Solid State Drives makes things load faster.
You have a choice, do you want things to load faster? Or do you want more graphics power?
Since you only mentioned SC2, SkyR made the right call with 6870 as SC2 is really not GPU intensive at all.
That CPU is pretty much the best CPU ever made for video gaming so yeah if you arent fine with that CPU no one is fine with any CPU. not for $1000 anyway.
Never buy prebuilts. Ever.
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Alright, new list:
http://geizhals.de/eu/?cat=WL-215319
We went back to the ASROCK because it supports USB3.0, or is there a better one with that in mind?
What do you think of this case? My friend would spend more for noise dampening.
Other than that, is he good to go?
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EPT
