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What difference does a 448 core model do?
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A 448 is a 570 that has been chopped down a bit and remarketed. It has nothing to do with 560 but thats no surprise. The price of one is pretty good though so let the performance speak for itself.
Performance is around a standard 570
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On February 01 2012 23:34 chocopaw wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Alright, new list: http://geizhals.de/eu/?cat=WL-215319We went back to the ASROCK because it supports USB3.0, or is there a better one with that in mind? What do you think of this case? My friend would spend more for noise dampening. Other than that, is he good to go? 
The list looks fine.
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medrea wait prebuild computer suck? why? I am also goin to be playing so high tense game too like mw3 and bf3 and other do you think my gpu can handle those game without crashing and lagging cause right now i am thinking changing gpu for GTX 560 ti.I heard those can run any game in high quality and can anyone reccomend me a new moniter too
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Prebuilts suck... shorter warranty, mystery parts, unoptimized. I'm not sure why he bought up prebuilts since you never mentioned purchasing a Dell or similar.
What the hell is high quality? A 6870 can also play most games on reasonably high settings. If you want a GTX 560 Ti than sure, go ahead and buy one.
For a new monitor, get a Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM.
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On February 02 2012 04:13 BlackkillerZzz wrote:
medrea wait prebuild computer suck? why? I am also goin to be playing so high tense game too like mw3 and bf3 and other do you think my gpu can handle those game without crashing and lagging cause right now i am thinking changing gpu for GTX 560 ti.I heard those can run any game in high quality and can anyone reccomend me a new moniter too
Honestly dude Im...
>.>
I am having a really hard time understanding what you are saying.
Prebuilt computers cut corners and overprice so we always recommending building your own computer which you seem to be interested in doing.
I dont even know what resolution you are running at, doubly so if you are looking for a new monitor. 560ti is affordable in your original budget of $1,000 but if you want a solid state drive and a monitor as well things will be tight.
On February 02 2012 04:25 skyR wrote:
Prebuilts suck... shorter warranty, mystery parts, unoptimized. I'm not sure why he bought up prebuilts since you never mentioned purchasing a Dell or similar.
What the hell is high quality? A 6870 can also play most games on reasonably high settings. If you want a GTX 560 Ti than sure, go ahead and buy one.
For a new monitor, get a Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM.
He linked a combo deal that was broken or something and then followed it up with "is this build better than what i got" so my mind went to boutique brand or something so i responded in kind. I dunno I can't. My head hurts lol.
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The combo was for a 2500k and Patriot 2x4gb memory. I have no clue why he linked it twice and than proceeded to ask a question that doesn't even make sense.
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Oh I guess they arent running that deal anymore then?
To be honest I figured as much from "combo deal" in the URL. Either way I only said 4 words that were completely true anyway.
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I have 2 questions, first, im kinda dumb apparently since i didnt quite understand what you guys were explaining about PSUs, so if i buy something like this:
MICRO I5 2500K , BOARD INTEL DZ68DB , Nvidia 560ti
What should i look for in PSU?
And the other question is if its OK to stick with the intel z68 or go for 30 bucks more with an Asus one.
Thanks for the help :3
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On February 02 2012 05:54 oo_xerox wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I have 2 questions, first, im kinda dumb apparently since i didnt quite understand what you guys were explaining about PSUs, so if i buy something like this:
MICRO I5 2500K , BOARD INTEL DZ68DB , Nvidia 560ti
What should i look for in PSU?
And the other question is if its OK to stick with the intel z68 or go for 30 bucks more with an Asus one.
Thanks for the help :3
A quality ~500w unit such as a Rosewill Capstone 450. Don't know what's available to you in Cuba...
Intel boards aren't made for overclocking so you want to avoid their P67 and Z68 motherboards as there are better options.
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I'm trying to build a completely silent/fanless computer and I was looking for some pointers as to what's needed. Seasonic has some really good fanless PSUs, so that's not a problem, although they are a bit expensive. I had something like SS-460FL in mind.
While looking at CPU coolers, the Nofan CR-95C/100A seems like the best choice. It can supposedly cool 95w/100w tdp sufficiently which means 2600k (well, you probably can't overclock too hard either way) if you're going for Sandy Bridge. Any one of you heard of this cooler? It seems quite big judging by pictures ...
![[image loading]](http://h12.abload.de/img/nofancr-95cicepipe95wfr743.jpg)
I haven't read up so much on VGA coolers except thermaltake and zalman has a few models. Not sure how far you can go though, it's probably not possible to cool the more high end cards passively? Powercolor apparently has a 6850 passive card, maybe the 7-series works for this especially since the architecture is shrunk?
And does the case matter at all here?
And won't the ambient temperature slowly rise if you have your computer at 100% load 24/7 for example? Is this a problem with passive cooling? do you absolutely need a chassis fan to get some airflow in the case?
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5930 Posts
Don't need that to cool a fanless computer. All you need is a high end CPU cooler along the lines of a Noctua U12P. I'm currently running my i5-750 in 40 degree Celsius temperatures with intake fans running at ~500RPM and exhaust fans running at 700RPM. No fans are strapped onto my CPU cooler.
There's no point running a completely fanless computer. Just run all of the fans at 500-700RPM and you'll still get a bit of airflow while not hearing it.
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It's Nofen (sic) btw.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/display/nofen-set-a40.html
Also there are plenty of other fanless coolers like Thermalright HR-02 (original), Xigmatek Thor's Hammer. Also pretty much any decent cooler can be used without a fan, so long as the CPU doesn't have huge power consumption in your intended usage.
The issue with all these fanless solutions, especially if you want like a PowerColor fanless HD 6850 or similar, is that you still need decent airflow. You're responsible for managing the airflow yourself.
Fully fanless doesn't make sense unless the power consumption is pretty low. Low-speed fans really shouldn't be audible in general circumstances and help a lot for actually moving air through these heatsinks (otherwise you're pretty much just relying on convection and air pressure differences, which will lead to toasty computer pretty quickly, particularly in a chassis that is more closed-off. Why get a sound-dampening chassis? Hard drives still make a lot of noise, unless you're going fully solid state for storage. You definitely want something with hard drive dampening and hopefully a door to contain seek noises.
Check out the build here on SPCR for 18 dBA SPL at full load:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/fanless-psu-build-guide
There are plenty of fans there, just not in the power supply.
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Most other coolers, including those you listed were intended for fan usage though. The "nofen" one seems doable even without chassis fans, or are you saying the normal heatsinks from noctua and thermalright works just as fine even with a 100w tdp?
But lets say you need a chassis fan (because of the problematic graphics card heat generation), wouldn't it make sense to build in something like that silverstone chassis that only cools from the bottom and exhausts in the top to help all the heatsinks (I don't recall the exact name *edit* oh Fortress FT02). I was thinking about something inaudible though, possibly around 500rpm.
And to clarify, I'm not exactly looking for top efficiency, I'd just want to try to make a decent fanless build for the sake of it. The requirement isn't to keep it perfectly cool or anything, just not hot enough to crash. If the GPU runs at 90C under load that's fine for me.
And yeah, I wasn't planning on any mechanical drives so that's not a problem. I have a few SSDs laying around so that's not a problem.
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Yeah most of the large tower coolers should work fine at a decent load. Just don't expect to be overclocking a Phenom II X4 or something like that. What do you mean by 100W TDP though? If it's like i5-2500 (no overclock), CPU-only power draw is only about 60W. Most likely a larger tower cooler could readily handle an i5-2500k overclocked with no voltage increase, without a fan...at least with some airflow to help from other sources.
Multiple Silverstone cases have bottom-to-top airflow, but I don't think that's a relevant feature to consider here. Ones with the 180mm fans are probably not a good idea in this situation though. Whichever case you use, you can replace the fans or just run them at slower speeds. This may not work with some specialty fans like some of the wonky 180mm ones; anyway it's better to find something with standard fan sizes like 120mm and 140mm, so if you need to swap them, there are many alternatives.
How low is the ambient noise in your home, anyway?
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5930 Posts
I have a Silverstone FT02. Its not quiet. Its quiet if you have SLI/Crossfire but its pretty loud for a single GPU system. The whole stack cooling phenomena is bullshit. The reason why it works is because you have a clear path in and out, which is something the majority of cases do poorly.
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On February 02 2012 09:34 Myrmidon wrote:
Yeah most of the large tower coolers should work fine at a decent load. Just don't expect to be overclocking a Phenom II X4 or something like that. What do you mean by 100W TDP though? If it's like i5-2500 (no overclock), CPU-only power draw is only about 60W. Most likely a larger tower cooler could readily handle an i5-2500k overclocked with no voltage increase, without a fan...at least with some airflow to help from other sources.
Multiple Silverstone cases have bottom-to-top airflow, but I don't think that's a relevant feature to consider here. Ones with the 180mm fans are probably not a good idea in this situation though. Whichever case you use, you can replace the fans or just run them at slower speeds. This may not work with some specialty fans like some of the wonky 180mm ones; anyway it's better to find something with standard fan sizes like 120mm and 140mm, so if you need to swap them, there are many alternatives.
How low is the ambient noise in your home, anyway?
regarding the cpu power, i was looking at this chart for that nofen cooler. Dunno why there are double dots for 24/25/2600 Sandy Bridge though.
![[image loading]](http://www.nofencomputer.com/eng/images/products/CR-100A_component.gif)
I don't really have any instrument to measure ambient noise. But in either case, lets say I agree to use a couple of (basically) inaudible chassis fans. What fans and what chassis would be best for optimal airflow/noise reduction then?
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5930 Posts
Fans: Scythe Slipstreams or Nexus Real Silents. Real Silents probably won't start up at 500RPM however.
Chassis: Antec Solo II or Antec Performance One series of cases. For the Performance One cases, just block the top vent with an ice cream lid and dam the CPU cooler to the rear exhaust fan...like put a cardboard sheet between the fan and top of the CPU cooler. The Performance One series should be good enough that you probably don't even need to run a fully passive PSU.
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On February 02 2012 09:46 Womwomwom wrote:
Fans: Scythe Slipstreams or Nexus Real Silents. Real Silents probably won't start up at 500RPM however.
Chassis: Antec Solo II or Antec Performance One series of cases. For the Performance One cases, just block the top vent with an ice cream lid and dam the CPU cooler to the rear exhaust fan...like put a cardboard sheet between the fan and top of the CPU cooler. The Performance One series should be good enough that you probably don't even need to run a fully passive PSU.
I built an Antec P193 for my granddad a while ago and yeah, it was surprisingly silent even under load. But wouldnt it in this case make more sense to have a more open case for optimized airflow since you have nothing in the case that will make sound anyway?
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5930 Posts
Both need directed airflow to get some cooling performance. If you need directed airflow, you want a closed case to prevent noise leakage since you are using fans to direct airflow.
If you thought the P193 was quiet, then you'll definitely find the new Antec Solo II to be inaudible. Most OCD people would find the P193 to be insufferably loud.
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EPT
