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On October 26 2011 07:45 gonzo056 wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Hey guys so Im building my first computer and was trying to keep it under the $1000 mark. I dont have a OS or monitor so I was trying to include that in the $1000. I was looking to have 1600x900 resolution. I will manily be using the computer for gaming and would like to multitask while playing. Like run skype and pandora. I would like this computer to last 2-3 years and am planning on building it asap. I was planning on overclocking it and am still not sure about multiple video cards. I would like to start with one and maybe on day in the future add a second. I have been looking for parts on newegg and this is what I have come up with. Thanks for all the advice.
Intel I5-2500K ($214.99) ASUS P8Z68-V LE ($129.99) G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB(2x4GB) ($49.99) Samsung CD/DVD Burner ($17.99) Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s ($64.99) XFX Radeon HD 6870 1GB (159.99 after mail-in rebate) Rosewill Challenger Black Gaming ATX and Rosewill HIVE-650w ($114.98 combo deal)
Total: $752.92
us.ncix.com usually has better pricing on some components. ex: core i5 2500k is $190 this week. A new sale starts every week during the evening of Wednesday so if you aren't purchasing tonight or tomorrow, I'd check back tomorrow for the sales.
The benefits of 1600MHz memory over 1333MHz is quite negligible:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/memory/display/sandy-bridge-ddr3.html http://www.anandtech.com/show/4503/sandy-bridge-memory-scaling-choosing-the-best-ddr3 http://techreport.com/articles.x/20377
There's many 1333MHz kits available for sub $40:
GSkill Snipers for $39: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231417 GSkill Value for $35: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231422
I don't believe in paying a premium for memory when you can easily purchase the Sniper kit and run them at 1600MHz if you wanted to.
The P8Z68-V LE isn't a great option for a multi-GPU configuration since it runs at x16 x4. Ideally you'll want a x8 x8 board such as one from the MSI P67 / Z68 G series or Asrock P67 / Z68 Extreme series.
You'll also want an aftermarket heatsink to overclock the 2500k, something like the Coolermaster Hyper 212+: http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=41337&promoid=1208
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Lol skyR do you have those 3 links hotkeyed?
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On October 26 2011 07:50 Medrea wrote:Show nested quote +On October 26 2011 07:42 Myrmidon wrote:Wow we both typo'd lol. I somehow did AC'97 -> ALC because I was thinking of Realtek audio codecs I guess, and you did ALC -> AC. Probably to correct me subconsciously.  I wonder if there's an old driver version you can install, or was it removed that far back? How often do you change EQ settings? If you can really tweak it still through the registry, you could save a couple of "presets", one in each .reg file. Then just run the .reg file you want to change the preset. Oh shit your right. I only want to lower the midrange and increase the low's and high's. It produces more natural sound than flat-everything. And I have no idea how to edit the registry numbers. Im sure everything is translated into hex.
You can use regedit.exe to browse registry. You can edit values from there with minimal effort.
btw .reg files are just text, like the below, generated with regedit.exe.
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Intel\Wireless\PAN] "Window Pos X"=dword:000001d4 "Window Pos Y"=dword:000000d6 "Window Height"=dword:0000023d "Window Width"=dword:000002e7
The issue is just finding out what the variable name is, the location, and how the raw value is translated to some EQ setting in dB. Hopefully that's listed somewhere online, or you can ask somebody with a Realtek ALC and EQ settings to change them and see what the change is in the registry value.
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On October 26 2011 09:07 Myrmidon wrote:Show nested quote +On October 26 2011 07:50 Medrea wrote:On October 26 2011 07:42 Myrmidon wrote:Wow we both typo'd lol. I somehow did AC'97 -> ALC because I was thinking of Realtek audio codecs I guess, and you did ALC -> AC. Probably to correct me subconsciously.  I wonder if there's an old driver version you can install, or was it removed that far back? How often do you change EQ settings? If you can really tweak it still through the registry, you could save a couple of "presets", one in each .reg file. Then just run the .reg file you want to change the preset. Oh shit your right. I only want to lower the midrange and increase the low's and high's. It produces more natural sound than flat-everything. And I have no idea how to edit the registry numbers. Im sure everything is translated into hex. You can use regedit.exe to browse registry. You can edit values from there with minimal effort. btw .reg files are just text, like the below, generated with regedit.exe. Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Intel\Wireless\PAN] "Window Pos X"=dword:000001d4 "Window Pos Y"=dword:000000d6 "Window Height"=dword:0000023d "Window Width"=dword:000002e7 The issue is just finding out what the variable name is, the location, and how the raw value is translated to some EQ setting in dB. Hopefully that's listed somewhere online, or you can ask somebody with a Realtek ALC and EQ settings to change them and see what the change is in the registry value.
I guess I should have been clear when I said I had no idea how to edit the registry numbers. Editing them is no problem, producing meaningful data is. I probably spend half my constructive PC time in regedit.
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Thank you for the help! So here's the adjustments:
From Newegg: Samsung CD/DVD Burner ($17.99) XFX Radeon HD 6870 1GB (159.99 after mail-in rebate) G.SKILL SNIPER 8GB ($38.99) Rosewill Challenger Black Gaming ATX and Rosewill HIVE-650w ($114.98 combo deal)
From NCIX US: Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus ($22.99) Intel Core i5 2500K ($189.99) MSI P67A-G43 (B3) P67 ($104.99) Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s ($59.98)
Total: $729.90
Thats $23.02 cheaper and I also added the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus.
Thank you for all your help
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http://www.hkc-europe.com/product_detail.asp?id=699
![[image loading]](http://www.benophetinternet.nl/tweak/hkc_3011gs_1.jpg)
This power supply should work decently in web computers / very low resolution, budget GPU computers, right? From what I've read it's not one that explodes. (also honest specifications at least the 12V rail)
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Any and all help is, as always, greatly appreciated :D
What is your budget?
750-1000 I have a 1 TB external I can use also, so something small and manageable for the internal will suffice
What is your resolution?
1920 x 1080
What are you using it for?
Schoolwork, streaming HD, playing starcraft 2, TF2, Diablo 3, any future high end games. Would like to play on high at around 125+ FPS if possible.
What is your upgrade cycle?
As long as I can possibly go without having to upgrade
When do you plan on building it?
Within this week
Do you plan on overclocking?
No I do not
Do you need an Operating System?
Yes, Windows 7 Home Premium
Do you plan to add a second GPU for SLI or Crossfire?
No I do not
Where are you buying your parts from?
Newegg
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So I went to place my newegg order earlier, and due to some credit card issues, I was unable to process the order. Now that I [think] I have everything sorted out, I'm going to place my order again. Only problem is that the 1TB 7200RPM HDD I was going to get no longer is in stock. In fact I'm finding lots of comparable HDDs are out of stock (probably because of that flooding). Can I get some advice on a new HDD to get? This is what I was looking at before: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
I'm willing to buy from other reputable sites, and even to spend a little bit more if I'm not able to get any deals quite as good as the one before. I might even be willing to look at 2 TB Drives. Any suggestions?
EDIT: Well no need to hurry as now newegg has suspended my account and is investigating me cause they think I'm a fraudulent liar. And when I called and asked to talk to fraud investigation so I could verify my identity, they wouldn't put me through to anyone, they just said there was nothing they could do to help me. -_-
I would not recommend anyone to purchase from newegg if you have a different billing and shipping address. This apparently was the source of the problem....although they still will not let me buy from them, even though they know what caused the problem.
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On October 26 2011 10:21 Shikyo wrote:http://www.hkc-europe.com/product_detail.asp?id=699![[image loading]](http://www.benophetinternet.nl/tweak/hkc_3011gs_1.jpg) This power supply should work decently in web computers / very low resolution, budget GPU computers, right? From what I've read it's not one that explodes. (also honest specifications at least the 12V rail)
Still, an ATX 12V 1.x unit that probably is just some pre-ATX 12V design with just some slightly buffed-up +12V rectifiers...I'd think an ATX 12V 2.x unit of any kind is more appropriate.
By running a modern +12V-heavy computer on it, you're effectively crossloading it, running it out of its designed comfort zone.
Then again, most anything "should work" for that kind of computer.
On October 26 2011 11:18 Hierarch wrote: Schoolwork, streaming HD, playing starcraft 2, TF2, Diablo 3, any future high end games. Would like to play on high at around 125+ FPS if possible.
This is not possible. Also, streaming in HD and maintaining higher fps in SC2 would both benefit from overclocking the CPU.
Does that change your responses?
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On October 26 2011 12:14 Myrmidon wrote:Still, an ATX 12V 1.x unit that probably is just some pre-ATX 12V design with just some slightly buffed-up +12V rectifiers...I'd think an ATX 12V 2.x unit of any kind is more appropriate. By running a modern +12V-heavy computer on it, you're effectively crossloading it, running it out of its designed comfort zone. Then again, most anything "should work" for that kind of computer. Show nested quote +On October 26 2011 11:18 Hierarch wrote: Schoolwork, streaming HD, playing starcraft 2, TF2, Diablo 3, any future high end games. Would like to play on high at around 125+ FPS if possible. This is not possible. Also, streaming in HD and maintaining higher fps in SC2 would both benefit from overclocking the CPU. Does that change your responses?
What would be feasible fps wise on high for sc2? Medium would work also if the frames can get to like 100+ unfortunately overclocking isn't an option because I don't know/understand the process and I would prefer not to if I can.
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On October 26 2011 12:17 Hierarch wrote:Show nested quote +On October 26 2011 12:14 Myrmidon wrote:On October 26 2011 10:21 Shikyo wrote:http://www.hkc-europe.com/product_detail.asp?id=699![[image loading]](http://www.benophetinternet.nl/tweak/hkc_3011gs_1.jpg) This power supply should work decently in web computers / very low resolution, budget GPU computers, right? From what I've read it's not one that explodes. (also honest specifications at least the 12V rail) Still, an ATX 12V 1.x unit that probably is just some pre-ATX 12V design with just some slightly buffed-up +12V rectifiers...I'd think an ATX 12V 2.x unit of any kind is more appropriate. By running a modern +12V-heavy computer on it, you're effectively crossloading it, running it out of its designed comfort zone. Then again, most anything "should work" for that kind of computer. On October 26 2011 11:18 Hierarch wrote: Schoolwork, streaming HD, playing starcraft 2, TF2, Diablo 3, any future high end games. Would like to play on high at around 125+ FPS if possible. This is not possible. Also, streaming in HD and maintaining higher fps in SC2 would both benefit from overclocking the CPU. Does that change your responses? What would be feasible fps wise on high for sc2? Medium would work also if the frames can get to like 100+ unfortunately overclocking isn't an option because I don't know/understand the process and I would prefer not to if I can.
Overclocking isn't hard if you have an unlocked processor. You're not going to get those settings on high even if you do overclock, just so you know, as you approach the mid-lategame. Processors nowadays are being MADE to be overclocked - in fact, the turbo boost advertised by companies is just like overclocking. Virtually the same thing.
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On October 26 2011 12:54 FabledIntegral wrote:Show nested quote +On October 26 2011 12:17 Hierarch wrote:On October 26 2011 12:14 Myrmidon wrote:On October 26 2011 10:21 Shikyo wrote:http://www.hkc-europe.com/product_detail.asp?id=699![[image loading]](http://www.benophetinternet.nl/tweak/hkc_3011gs_1.jpg) This power supply should work decently in web computers / very low resolution, budget GPU computers, right? From what I've read it's not one that explodes. (also honest specifications at least the 12V rail) Still, an ATX 12V 1.x unit that probably is just some pre-ATX 12V design with just some slightly buffed-up +12V rectifiers...I'd think an ATX 12V 2.x unit of any kind is more appropriate. By running a modern +12V-heavy computer on it, you're effectively crossloading it, running it out of its designed comfort zone. Then again, most anything "should work" for that kind of computer. On October 26 2011 11:18 Hierarch wrote: Schoolwork, streaming HD, playing starcraft 2, TF2, Diablo 3, any future high end games. Would like to play on high at around 125+ FPS if possible. This is not possible. Also, streaming in HD and maintaining higher fps in SC2 would both benefit from overclocking the CPU. Does that change your responses? What would be feasible fps wise on high for sc2? Medium would work also if the frames can get to like 100+ unfortunately overclocking isn't an option because I don't know/understand the process and I would prefer not to if I can. Overclocking isn't hard if you have an unlocked processor. You're not going to get those settings on high even if you do overclock, just so you know, as you approach the mid-lategame. Processors nowadays are being MADE to be overclocked - in fact, the turbo boost advertised by companies is just like overclocking. Virtually the same thing.
I get 70-100 all game in a 1v1 on a 1st gen i3 on my laptop on Low, so I don't see why it's not feasible to get 100 or so on medium?
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getting 125 fps is going to be hard esp in sc2 and worse when streaming since both are very CPU intensive. Even without streaming you won't get 125 fps consistently. That being said your budget allows for a decent build capable of all you want.
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On October 26 2011 12:59 jacosajh wrote: getting 125 fps is going to be hard esp in sc2 and worse when streaming since both are very CPU intensive. Even without streaming you won't get 125 fps consistently. That being said your budget allows for a decent build capable of all you want.
I don't want to stream my gameplay, I meant like watching streams in HD lol. Now I see the confusion.
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I still don't think you are getting 70-100 all game in 1v1 on a 1st gen i3 laptop.
I have a 2nd gen i5 laptop and it gets maybe 70-80 with dips as low as 30 on low in 1v1.
In any case, yes, there's a difference between watching streaming and actually streaming. Let me see if I can come up with a decent build.
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He doesnt. On Low settings I am guess his mobility i3 first generation gets maybe upper 20's when the action gets intense in a 1v1.
SC2 pathing = insane calculations.
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On October 26 2011 13:03 jacosajh wrote: I still don't think you are getting 70-100 all game in 1v1 on a 1st gen i3 laptop.
I have a 2nd gen i5 laptop and it gets maybe 70-80 with dips as low as 30 on low in 1v1.
In any case, yes, there's a difference between watching streaming and actually streaming. Let me see if I can come up with a decent build.
The lowest it goes is around 20 but only when a ton of lings or mmm is out, I play toss so until the early-mid game I'm up around 100 or so no problem and then through the midgame 70-85 no problem.
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On October 26 2011 13:06 Medrea wrote: He doesnt. On Low settings I am guess his mobility i3 first generation gets maybe upper 20's when the action gets intense in a 1v1.
SC2 pathing = insane calculations.
i've played on 20 fps before and it's almost impossible to do anything reasonably well, so I know it's above 20. When the game starts it's around 95-105 for a while, then as the game gets going it drops obviously, but it doesn't go around 20 almost ever. I'm usually around 50-60 when stuff gets intense.
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My i5 -2500k goes into mid to upper 30's when things go a little bit crazy.
Either way, thats not "70 to 100" all game. Its important to make sure we have realistic numbers out there so people don't come whining in this forum about how there Pentium 4 doesn't get constant 60 FPS.
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