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Thanks, I'll go with that then.
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Sweet, thanks for the help  So here's what I have now:
+ Show Spoiler +Samsung S20A300B 20.5in Widescreen LED Monitor- $125
TP-Link TL-WN851ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter- $29
Beige PS2 Standard Keyboard- $9
Intel Core i3 2100- $119
Corsair CX-430 V2 Power Supply- $59
HIS Radeon HD6770 1GB- $115
ASRock H61M-VS Motherboard B3- $53
Kingston ValueRAM KVR1333D3N9/4G (1x4GB) DDR3- $27
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ- $54
CoolerMaster Elite 331- $39
Samsung SH-222AB SATA DVDRW Drive- $22
All up it's $651, off PCCG. What would be the most important thing to put that last $50 into? I'm guessing it would be either the GPU or CPU, but I'm not sure which one. And also, the motherboard only has one extra PCI slot, is that one big enough for the wireless adapter?
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OCZ ModXStream Pro is not bad, not that good either.
To me the JG review of the S12II is kind of an enigma. In many other tests, S12II platform has been good, but voltage regulation was nowhere near those numbers.
Definitely a solid unit though, but at $60, if you don't care about efficiency that much, I would get the Antec Earthwatts Green 650W instead ($60 after promo code, $40 AMIR), also 80 plus bronze but you'd probably be running it below 20% a lot:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371044
Earthwatts Green has more power, individual regulated output as opposed to group regulated (and probably better voltage regulation as a result), a little worse ripple, and a little worse components. They're better in different ways, but I'd prefer the Earthwatts Green a bit.
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On September 22 2011 06:41 geethy wrote:Sweet, thanks for the help So here's what I have now: + Show Spoiler +Samsung S20A300B 20.5in Widescreen LED Monitor- $125
TP-Link TL-WN851ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter- $29
Beige PS2 Standard Keyboard- $9
Intel Core i3 2100- $119
Corsair CX-430 V2 Power Supply- $59
HIS Radeon HD6770 1GB- $115
ASRock H61M-VS Motherboard B3- $53
Kingston ValueRAM KVR1333D3N9/4G (1x4GB) DDR3- $27
Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ- $54
CoolerMaster Elite 331- $39
Samsung SH-222AB SATA DVDRW Drive- $22 All up it's $651, off PCCG. What would be the most important thing to put that last $50 into? I'm guessing it would be either the GPU or CPU, but I'm not sure which one. And also, the motherboard only has one extra PCI slot, is that one big enough for the wireless adapter?
Big problem:
the motherboard has NO PCI slot. That's a x16 PCI Express slot and a 1x PCI Express slot. But I'd prefer a wireless adapter with antennas that aren't affixed to the chassis anyway, for better reception (sometimes can make a big difference).
e.g.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_328&products_id=16564
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_328&products_id=16982
Upgrades...
I would say keyboard, monitor, CPU, GPU, RAM, roughly in that order. Possibly case somewhere in there if you move it around or plan to keep it a while. These things kind of depend on your preferences though, which I don't profess to know. Any of those would not necessarily be a bad choice. If you want to play more games on highest settings, GPU would be the natural upgrade. Thinking long-term usage and allowing for later upgrades, getting a quad core i5 now and upgrading the GPU later makes sense.
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Ok, What's a good quality, reliable LGA 1155 compatible HSF?
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Xigmatek Gaia, CM Hyper 212+, Corsair A70, anything by Noctua, most Zalman's...
Basically anything that isn't a closed loop liquid cooler like an H60.
160mm tower coolers are the typical air coolers for normal cases. Generally take 120mm fans.
Say, why the hell do we call them 120mm instead of 12cm? Or is that just us silly stubborn Americans who refuse to accept a rational system of measurement?
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United States2033 Posts
On September 22 2011 08:27 JingleHell wrote:
Xigmatek Gaia, CM Hyper 212+, Corsair A70, anything by Noctua, most Zalman's...
Basically anything that isn't a closed loop liquid cooler like an H60.
160mm tower coolers are the typical air coolers for normal cases. Generally take 120mm fans.
Say, why the hell do we call them 120mm instead of 12cm? Or is that just us silly stubborn Americans who refuse to accept a rational system of measurement?
Probably because 9.2cm fans is more confusing than 92mm. And hey, at least we're using the metric system for some things. Also, 120>12 (marketing).
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On September 22 2011 08:56 MisterFred wrote:Show nested quote +On September 22 2011 08:27 JingleHell wrote:
Xigmatek Gaia, CM Hyper 212+, Corsair A70, anything by Noctua, most Zalman's...
Basically anything that isn't a closed loop liquid cooler like an H60.
160mm tower coolers are the typical air coolers for normal cases. Generally take 120mm fans.
Say, why the hell do we call them 120mm instead of 12cm? Or is that just us silly stubborn Americans who refuse to accept a rational system of measurement? Probably because 9.2cm fans is more confusing than 92mm. And hey, at least we're using the metric system for some things. Also, 120>12 (marketing).
Guess that makes sense, as much as it also makes me sick. God, I hate some of the American way of thinking...
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The 10^(3n) prefix where n is an integer makes a lot more sense for consistency and also for technical data. I mean, what's the prefix for 10^-5? Why is 10^-2 more widespread than the others not of the form 10^(3n)? IMHO that's only because cm is a more human-interpretable scale unit for object sizes and distances that people come into contact with.
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Fair enough. And yeah, I guess precision is good, but by the same token, for marketing to the un-savvy, there's nothing wrong with reducing, as long as you don't discard any significant figures.
Been too long since my brain played math. I've got to fix that...
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Budget: 400$
Resolution: 1680x1050
Used for: Mostly surfing net, homework. I have this computer for gaming but need a backup family computer.
Cycle: 4 years usually.
Date: I plan to build within a week or 2.
Overclock: no
OS:no
Buying from Canada Computers.
I found out my computer is dieing completely and I need to build a new one.
I bought a new HDD for computer but it did not fix all the problems so I already have that. I want a second HDD for storage only. Should I get a green? Add that in the budget instead of the other HDD.
Thanks.
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I know this isn't exactly 100% on topic, but I don't believe my question warrants it's own thread.
We get frequent power outages in my area, and it really is a pain when trying to torrent things. Can you guys recommend a good/quality means of keeping constant power to my PC? Backup battery or UPS or something? Newegg extremely preferred.
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Uhm, basically, unless you spend a decent chunk, you won't get one that can power a PC, modem, router, and display (or even cutting out the display) for very long. Or are you talking about flickers?
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On September 22 2011 11:36 JingleHell wrote:
Uhm, basically, unless you spend a decent chunk, you won't get one that can power a PC, modem, router, and display (or even cutting out the display) for very long. Or are you talking about flickers?
It's just flickers, not multi-hour outages. It really only needs to power my PC and 2 monitors for no longer than 2-3 minutes. I was looking at this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102070
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If all you're worried about is flickers, pretty much any of them should work. The cheap ones usually don't have trouble until ~10 minutes, depending on what you're running off it.
Mind you, I haven't messed with any home type ones in about 8 years, so that experience IS dated, and could be invalid.
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Why is Newegg so awfully slow right now?
If you can't already tell, Shikyo's advice is bad. You do not need a true sine wave UPS for flickers, any consumer grade UPS with simulated sine is fine. 800w is also sort of overkill for just a computer and two monitors, even when under load (unless you're running some multi-GPU setup). Even for consumer grade UPS, I'd still remain with Cyberpower or APC (I have APC myself).
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I need some information on upgrading since I seem to be having a hard time finding out information on my own I really really hope someone can help me. First off I'd like to say I'm only upgrading for Battlefield 3 and only really wanting to be able to play at 1920x1080, even with all the fancy stuff off BUT I want to have the highest FPS (60 I think is max on that game). Anyways back to my problem, I want to find a new graphics card and processor but I don't want to have to buy a new motherboard in the process, here is my current motherboard:Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3.
I have liquid cooling on my current CPU and would like to also (if I can) use that same cooler, here is my current CPU and GPU:ATI Radeon HD 5770 - 1GB - Single Card-----Intel® Core™ i3 540 Processor (2x 3.06GHz/4MB L3 Cache). Can someone tell me what is the best possible CPU and GPU that I should upgrade to that will be interchangeable without much modification with my current motherboard.
Also I should note I have a 700 watt power supply and really am hoping to avoid upgrading that as well. Just mainly wanna know what CPU and GPU I could go to without having to buy anything else if I can (very poor person TT ).
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The best processor available on LGA1156 is the core i7 880 or 875k. Though you shouldn't upgrade to either of these since Battlefield 3 does not utilize hyperthreading (that is the major benefit of getting a core i7 over a core i5).
If you really want a quad for the game and don't want to change your motherboard than your option would be either the core i5 750 or 760. You should buy either of these used since it's pretty stupid to buy these brand new when Sandybridge is available for the same price.
For the graphics card, you're looking at a GTX 560 Ti or Radeon HD6950 1GB, both of which should comfortably play the game on reasonably high settings at 1080p.
I think you should upgrade your graphics card before upgrading the processor btw. If you're not satisfied with the game performance still after the upgrade than you can look into upgrading to a quad.
700w of power is more than enough for any graphics card on the market. You really overspent here when you built your computer... and it's probably a subpar model as well.
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EPT
