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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
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Hi, new build I put together for a friend. (In Canada)
Objectives: Streaming, Gaming. Resolution : 1920x1200
No overclock. No plans of adding a second card in the future. Already have an OS, monitor, keyboard and mouse.
Hoping the system will last a fairly long time.
PSU must be fully modular. Budget: Around 1100$.
Here's my attempt : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/1g2iv
Plan on building as soon as possible.
Please critique and make suggestions.
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Get the Samsung 840 120gb from Newegg for $90 then you'll have an order over $500 and you can use the -$50 off promo for new customers.
Pricematch the 4770 at Memory Express to get it for ~$302.
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On July 13 2013 03:03 Ropid wrote:Show nested quote +On July 13 2013 03:01 Mithriel wrote:On July 13 2013 02:49 Ropid wrote:
The NH-U14S should still fit on this mATX board and not be much pricier. I'm trying to find a picture of proof that it'll fit, but I'm failing.
EDIT: The board is listed as compatible on Noctua's site. Thanks, looks like my PC is coming to its final form. I did check the board on noctua site, says its compatible, but might have an issue with the GFX card. Though i guess ill have to try! The Asus GTX 760 has stuff on its backside as it's so short. That could be bad with a large cooler and mATX board. You could maybe go for a different card if you choose the U14S, for example a Gigabyte GTX 760 which should be same price. It has a longer PCB and everything on the front side. That might also be better for cooling of its RAM etc.
Thanks for your comment. The mATX part was a mistake from my side, i prefer a normal ATX board. This means i'll for go for a either ASRock ZExtreme 4 or Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3HP i think.
I noticed those other motherboards have multiple PCI-E slots. Is that perhaps why they are compatible with the huge CPU Cooler? Is it possible to put the GFX in whatever PCI-E slot you like (bottem one for example)?
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On July 13 2013 20:13 Mithriel wrote:Show nested quote +On July 13 2013 03:03 Ropid wrote:On July 13 2013 03:01 Mithriel wrote:On July 13 2013 02:49 Ropid wrote:
The NH-U14S should still fit on this mATX board and not be much pricier. I'm trying to find a picture of proof that it'll fit, but I'm failing.
EDIT: The board is listed as compatible on Noctua's site. Thanks, looks like my PC is coming to its final form. I did check the board on noctua site, says its compatible, but might have an issue with the GFX card. Though i guess ill have to try! The Asus GTX 760 has stuff on its backside as it's so short. That could be bad with a large cooler and mATX board. You could maybe go for a different card if you choose the U14S, for example a Gigabyte GTX 760 which should be same price. It has a longer PCB and everything on the front side. That might also be better for cooling of its RAM etc. Thanks for your comment. The mATX part was a mistake from my side, i prefer a normal ATX board. This means i'll for go for a either ASRock ZExtreme 4 or Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3HP i think. I noticed those other motherboards have multiple PCI-E slots. Is that perhaps why they are compatible with the huge CPU Cooler? Is it possible to put the GFX in whatever PCI-E slot you like (bottem one for example)?
The difference is because of a short PCIe 1x slot technically being the very first slot on the usual ATX boards. The graphics card slot moves one step away from the CPU socket. If you look at pictures, you'll see what's happening:
+ Show Spoiler +
You will still have to put the graphics card into the position that's closest to the CPU socket for it to get the full connection speed (though that's not really any difference in fps in practice today).
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I'm looking to build a new PC and my knowledge is very, very limited. Some friends have come up with the following build for me, I was just hoping to get some feedback on it before I make the final purchase. My budget is around $1,300 (flexible, though of course less is better), will be playing at 1920x1080, will be used for mostly gaming (streaming would be fun, but I wouldn't be streaming AAA games at 1080p or anything, mostly older stuff), pretty clueless about what upgrade cycle I would be looking at - I'd say around 2 years, I'd be looking at ordering parts in the next 1-2 weeks, don't plan on overclocking, will need an OS, won't be crossfiring/SLI, and I would like to order all my parts from PCCaseGear (it's an Australian store and one of the more trusted/popular ones available, I really don't want to be dealing with a dodgy store just to save a few bucks)
Heat and dust will be issues given where I live, it can get up to 40C during the summer and I like to have my windows open pretty much 24/7. I already have a kb/mouse and a monitor (LG flatron e2411), though I won't be able to salvage any parts from my current rig because it's like 8-9 years old.
So here's the build:
CASE: Lian Li Lancool USB 3.0 PC-K9 Black - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18738 $105
PSU: Antec EA-550 Platinum - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19330 $109
MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19867 $119
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20893 $235
RAM: Kingston HyperX - KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19180 $85
GPU: Gigabyte Radeon HD7870 2GB Overclocked - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1372&products_id=19740 $235
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19554 $99
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB SSD - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22102 $149
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17003 $105
TOTAL: $1241
Insured shipping will be around $62.
I understand the GPU is the overclocked edition, but the only other brands they have available are one which is weaker for $6 less (as far as I can tell) or another overclock edition. I'm really clueless when it comes to what the difference between brands is and what's best. There's no disadvantage to using an overclocked edition and not overclocking it other than price, is there? I'm intending to build it myself. Very, very tempted to pay someone else to assemble it for me and just watch while they do it to get an idea of how it's done, but I wouldn't know where I could do something like that.
So yeah, that's what I've got so far. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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On July 14 2013 18:21 caedmon- wrote:+ Show Spoiler +I'm looking to build a new PC and my knowledge is very, very limited. Some friends have come up with the following build for me, I was just hoping to get some feedback on it before I make the final purchase. My budget is around $1,300 (flexible, though of course less is better), will be playing at 1920x1080, will be used for mostly gaming (streaming would be fun, but I wouldn't be streaming AAA games at 1080p or anything, mostly older stuff), pretty clueless about what upgrade cycle I would be looking at - I'd say around 2 years, I'd be looking at ordering parts in the next 1-2 weeks, don't plan on overclocking, will need an OS, won't be crossfiring/SLI, and I would like to order all my parts from PCCaseGear (it's an Australian store and one of the more trusted/popular ones available, I really don't want to be dealing with a dodgy store just to save a few bucks) Heat and dust will be issues given where I live, it can get up to 40C during the summer and I like to have my windows open pretty much 24/7. I already have a kb/mouse and a monitor (LG flatron e2411), though I won't be able to salvage any parts from my current rig because it's like 8-9 years old. So here's the build: CASE: Lian Li Lancool USB 3.0 PC-K9 Black - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18738 $105PSU: Antec EA-550 Platinum - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19330 $109MOBO: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19867 $119CPU: Intel Core i5 3570 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20893 $235RAM: Kingston HyperX - KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19180 $85GPU: Gigabyte Radeon HD7870 2GB Overclocked - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1372&products_id=19740 $235HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB ST2000DM001 - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19554 $99SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB SSD - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22102 $149OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17003 $105TOTAL: $1241Insured shipping will be around $62. I understand the GPU is the overclocked edition, but the only other brands they have available are one which is weaker for $6 less (as far as I can tell) or another overclock edition. I'm really clueless when it comes to what the difference between brands is and what's best. There's no disadvantage to using an overclocked edition and not overclocking it other than price, is there? I'm intending to build it myself. Very, very tempted to pay someone else to assemble it for me and just watch while they do it to get an idea of how it's done, but I wouldn't know where I could do something like that. So yeah, that's what I've got so far. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If you are not overclocking than a Z series motherboard is not necessary, get a H or B series motherboard instead. You should consider getting the newer 4670 along with a H87 or B85 motherboard instead.
The main difference between manufacturers you should worry about is their post-sale support. There is no disadvantage to buying a pre-overclocked card other than it being pricier than the stock (non-overclocked) variant. Overclocked variants tend to have many advantages over stock such as a custom heatsink, custom PCB, and tested for stability at those levels, etc.
Samsung 840 Pro is not necessary. It is significantly faster than the normal 840 in sequential writes but you don't do sequential writes for gaming so performance in this aspect is not relevant. It also carries a five year warranty over the three year warranty of the regular 840. Just get the regular 840: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22033
Get a G.Skill 2x4gb kit. It's 1.5v rather than 1.65v of the Kingston and has a tRAS of 24 rather than 27. In simple words, it's just better at the same price: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23688
Lian Li's looks aesthetically nice and they're mod-friendly but they're not exactly the friendliest cases to work in for a novice. Consider getting the 300R instead for slightly less: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19706 or a Fractal Design case.
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Looks good, gigabyte should be as good or better than powercolor and sappire.
If you aren't overclocking you shouldn't have any heat issues regardless of what case. Get whatever you like the look of, where the front ports are placed is something to be aware of, if you case is on the floor you probably want the ports on the top, probably want them on the front if your case is on a desk.
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On July 14 2013 20:24 Blaec wrote:+ Show Spoiler +
Looks good, gigabyte should be as good or better than powercolor and sappire.
If you aren't overclocking you shouldn't have any heat issues regardless of what case. Get whatever you like the look of, where the front ports are placed is something to be aware of, if you case is on the floor you probably want the ports on the top, probably want them on the front if your case is on a desk.
The case will be on a desk right next to where my mouse/pad is. I'll probably have the kb/mouse cords connected at the back in any event, and maybe only the headphones coming from the front.
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@caedmon-:
If it's up to 40 C in the room, you might want to look at some cheap aftermarket cooler even without overclocking.
There were reports that some of the new CPUs get very hot even without overclocking with Intel's cooler. I don't know at what room temperature that was tested, but it surely wasn't 40 C.
Just look for something using heat-pipes and it'll be a lot better than Intel's default cooler. That $25 CM Hyper TX3 in that pccasegear.com shop might be the best choice. Its specs say the fan can go down to 800 rpm, which should be quiet. The larger the fan is, the more quiet it'll be in practice, so I don't know if that cooler with its small fan really is a good choice, but the $40 coolers are definitely overkill.
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I have my TX3 set to idle at 37.5% (~1050rpm) and I can't hear it over my case fans until about 2100rpm. However I have 6 case fans...
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On July 14 2013 22:29 Ropid wrote:
@caedmon-:
If it's up to 40 C in the room, you might want to look at some cheap aftermarket cooler even without overclocking.
There were reports that some of the new CPUs get very hot even without overclocking with Intel's cooler. I don't know at what room temperature that was tested, but it surely wasn't 40 C.
Just look for something using heat-pipes and it'll be a lot better than Intel's default cooler. That $25 CM Hyper TX3 in that pccasegear.com shop might be the best choice. Its specs say the fan can go down to 800 rpm, which should be quiet. The larger the fan is, the more quiet it'll be in practice, so I don't know if that cooler with its small fan really is a good choice, but the $40 coolers are definitely overkill.
Good point. tx3 is ok for stock, just make sure you go into the bios and tell the motherboard to slow the fan down.
My tx3 at 0-25% while doing normal stuff, ramps up to 100% at load. But this is in winter, still if you relax the speed increase aggressiveness it still should be cooler and quieter than the stock for a very small amount of money, even in Aus summer.
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just built my pc. 4770k gz87 ud4h.
im getting only a 7.8 index score for my cpu in windows 7. shouldnt stock be 7.9? what can i do? not sure what optimal settings are for a cpu.. everything is prettyt much on auto int he bios.
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On July 15 2013 00:13 aBstractx wrote:
just built my pc. 4770k gz87 ud4h.
im getting only a 7.8 index score for my cpu in windows 7. shouldnt stock be 7.9? what can i do? not sure what optimal settings are for a cpu.. everything is prettyt much on auto int he bios.
I wouldn't worry what the windows experience thing says. Leave everything on auto if you aren't going to overclock, if you are then learn a bit first.
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On July 15 2013 00:27 aBstractx wrote:
here's the cpuz report. does everything look normal?
file:///C:/Users/Boss/Desktop/BOSS-PC.html
I cant see files on your computer bro. Gotta upload a screenshot of it to imgur or something.
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I read that the minimum for Rome Total War 2 will be :
Processor:2nd Generation Intel Core i5 processor (or greater)
Memory: 4GB RAM
Graphics:1024 MB DirectX 11 compatible graphics card.
DirectX®:11
Hard Drive:35 GB HD space
What kind of $ should I be looking to spend?
Also, open to suggestions  Just name a few components and I'll look them up ^^
Ty
Robert
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United Kingdom20335 Posts
That's idle. You should check temperatures and load performance, download for example Cinebench 11.5 and Realtemp, run cinebench CPU test while realtemp is open.
Don't worry about the windows experience index though, it's a terrible benchmark. Dedicated benchmarks like Cinebench are much better.
You looking to overclock? What cooling do you have also?
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/pzgCocX.png)
