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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
On June 07 2013 22:27 holistic wrote: Where does one sell their decrepit, custom PC?
Craigslist*. A sucker is born every minute. They might even thank you if they're used to crappy prebuilts loaded with bloatware and you give them a nice, slim, clean software environment.
*or other online classifieds. In Salt Lake City, for instance, the website for the local tv station, KSL, has become the dominant center for local used commerce.
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decided to build my pc too, save the 100 euro etc, i was scared as shit and the worst part was the hr 02 macho, besides that everything was pretty easy and i only bled once and am pretty proud of my newbieesk cable managment ..well it was super easy in that nanoxia case -_- (its like 5 times as heavy as my former case lol)
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I second Craigslist. I built my PC for 490$ six months ago and just sold it for 500$. I didn't even give him a bad deal, since the PC cost about 700$ from ibuypower and about 600$ at current PC part pricing without deal shopping haha. If you build, its a really good way to recoup a lot of your money.
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On June 07 2013 15:28 Superiorwolf wrote:Hey okay so you guys told me to wait for the next line of Intel processors, and from what I can tell it looks like they are out! Please give me thoughts on my plan here: Current PCi5-2400 nVidia GTX 560ti H67MA-E35 Motherboard 8 GB RAM 90 GB SSD 500 GB HDD 760 W PSU Extra PartsRadeon HD 4850 512 MB And my plan is to turn it all into this: New PCi7-4770K ($350) Link NEWnVidia GTX 560ti MSI ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Z87-G43 Motherboard ($120) Link NEW8 GB RAM 90 GB SSD 500 GB HDD Cooler Master 460 W Power Supply ($35) Link NEWAftermarket Cooler (?) PC for my parentsi5-2400 H67MA-E35 Radeon HD 4850 4 GB RAM ($31) Link NEW500 GB HDD Western Digital ($57) Link NEWCooler Master 460 W Power Supply ($35) Link NEWTotal Cost: $628 Questions: Some people have said that the upgrade from i5-2400 to i5-4670k would not be that big of an improvement, I decided to go with i7-4770k after hearing it's better for streaming (I'd like to be able to stream on better settings). Currently I think the i5-2400 is my bottleneck, and late game in SC2 I get sub 30 fps, and probably even lower in battles. I would like to be able to play like on the MLG computers that were at a constant 200 fps throughout. How much gain will there be without overclocking, and with some moderate overclocking? Will the power supply unit be enough power, and will it be quiet if it's at a high load? I am very much concerned with fan noise because right now I think my PSU is what is causing my computer to be so loud and I really really want a quiet computer! Also a PSU comes with all the cords you need to connect things right? Any suggestions for better options (mobo, psu, etc.) that you think would be nicer or if there are any good deals going on right now? Should I get an aftermarket cooler with moderate overclocking?
Get a bigger HDD. Those techno podcasts add up fast!
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No reason to spend more money if he isn't going to use the space. I've never gone over 300 GB ever on mine. Then again, if he thinks storage might be needed its not a bad idea. But buying extra space because you can isn't super necessary.
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United States7481 Posts
On June 07 2013 08:59 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On June 07 2013 04:55 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 08:26 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 07:36 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 07:10 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 07:05 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 06:34 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 04:13 Antoine wrote: if I saved $60-70 between going down to a Seasonic M12II-650 BRONZE ATX 650 PSU and ASUS Z87-A or ASRock Z87 Extreme4, where could I even put that for better performance? I would if it would be really helpful but I don't know where else I could go for a meaningful upgrade? Maybe the higher-end SSD I mentioned, but I don't mind going $20 over the estimated 200 there. While the Seasonic M12II is a good unit, its in an awkward position since the newer better gold units are in the same price point so you wouldn't want an M12II. I see that the Capstone-M 650 unit is out of stock so I'm guessing you want a modular unit and that's why you selected a M12II. I assume you also want SLI judging by the original choice of 750w so I'd select the Corsair HX650 for $105 ($80 after mail in rebate): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012Rosewill got their poor reputation in the past when they were using cheap ATNG and Solytech units. They still sell these units (Stallion, Performance, etc), which are still shit btw. Recently, they started using Superflower as their OEM. Capstones, Lightnings, and Tachyons are all superb units from Superflower, on par with Seasonic (the Corsair HX650 is a Seasonic). You hardly use a DVD burner so its nothing to worry about. The least expensive one is probably from Microcenter. The two notable differences between the 840 Pro and 840 is that the 840 Pro has significantly better write speeds and has two extra years of warranty over the 840. So if you are going to be writing to the SSD a lot then get the 840 Pro without a doubt. Otherwise, you should probably get the 840 because the performance difference between the two in loading WoW or Windows bootup is milliseconds. Why the Coolermaster TPC 812? From what I remember, it performs worse than equivalently priced heatsinks like the Thermalright True Spirit or Macho. And Coolermaster's mounting system is god awful. Remember that heatsinks and cases can last through a lifetime of builds so don't settle for shit from Coolermaster when you're spending $50+, $20 more gets you something from Noctua, Phantek, Thermalright, or even Corsair. Noctua provides a six year warranty and mounting kits free of charge for life. Their support is pretty top notch as well if you ever need help with a heatsink? o.O Phantek is relatively new but their heatsinks perform well and looks nice, backed with a five year warranty. Thanks for the advice on the first 3 - will follow that and pick up the 840 pro as well as the PSU you linked. I was choosing between a couple different heatsinks. I have read some reviews for my case and it's not the greatest as far as temps go, plus it's a mid tower so it can't fit huge ones. I thought the TPC 812 would be better performance than the NH-U12s which is similarly priced but likely priced for its tiny size? I was also looking at the ThermalTake Frio but it's a few mm taller than the TPC 812. I couldn't find any hard numbers for the max height of a heatsink in this case and wasn't sure where to go. I'll do some more research into heatsinks though, thanks again. Most mid-towers including the C70 have clearance for large heatsinks such as the Noctua NH-D14 Ah, that's a relief. One name that keeps popping up in these reviews is the Xigmatek Aegir. Seems to be great in terms of cooling and noise, at a similar price level to the Frio, 812, etc. Is there a reason you didn't mention it among those other brands? Xigmatek isn't widely available in Canada and they don't have products that particularly stand out. And as Ropid mentioned, the use of direct touch is not as good as a base. The Hyper 212 got Coolermaster famous but other than that, I don't think they have anything good. Noctua is well known for their free lifetime mounting kits and were one of the first companies to debut these high-end heatsinks. Phantek is relatively new but their dual radiator heatsink has been shown that it performs better than the NH-D14 and is available in various colours. Phantek and Noctua also have similar easy mounting procedures and their provided TIM is excellent as well. The same can be said for Thermalright but their availability in North America isn't great. You might as well treat yourself to the best for $20 more since you're already getting an i7 and planning on doing SLI. The cost is justifiable if you consider their level of support, the included two fans, and quality of TIM compared to Thermaltake, Coolermaster, and the other non niche companies. I'm back after another day's research. Definitely going with the NH-D14 now, edging out Phanteks based on customer support reputation and extra year of warranty. I'm still waffling on the power supply. That one you linked, the HX650, has lots of reports of sounds like bird chirps when the fan changes speeds. This is the kind of thing that will almost certainly annoy me. I'm not sure where else to look for a 650w gold-rated modular PSU though. actually I found http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10440897&PID=5961731&SID=0 but it's not as cheap as I was hoping to get. The Corsair HX650 is based on the Seasonic G so chances are that some Seasonic G units will also exhibit chirping. I just noticed that the HX650 only has two PCIe connectors which is unfortunate. I wouldn't suggest that anymoore since you probably don't want to be dealing with molex adapters when you're spending this much. Unfortunately there aren't many choices. Most platforms aren't as good as Seasonics or Superflowers. And besides Capstones, Superflower based units are few and far between in North America, also expensive. The Corsair HX750 which is a CWT unit is also on sale right now on Newegg but iirc, coil whine is a common complaint. The third revision of Seasonic X has the switch to toggle between hybrid and normal fan operations so that will get rid of the chirping sound I guess but reports of coil whine on the X series is also quite common. I think I've finally found the PSU for me: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182083 . It uses ATNG as an OEM which was mentioned as poor quality, but the reviews I've read of it have been excellent. Its price after rebate is $89.99, which is right around what I was looking for out of a 650W. While initially I was hoping for a modular PSU, and this isn't, I think the fact that it's platinum-rated instead of gold like others at this price point should make up for that. Any alternate opinions before I pull the trigger?
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Thinking of upgrading from CF 6850's to something. Been looking a lot at 7970's. Nothing really wrong with my cards but tired of the microstuttering and driver issues between games. Any advice for GPU's at the moment?
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Will be building a new computer relatively soon. Haven't heard news of any releases coming soon.
Currently have: i5 760 processor GTX 470 video card Intel DP55KG motherboard 12gb DDR3 1600hz ram 128 gb Samsung 840 Pro asus vg248qe and alienware AW2310 monitors
Budget: $1500-2000 Looking to build a water-cooled, somewhat energy efficient machine. Not too familiar with how to assemble a custom water--cooling kit but will be looking at Swifttech H220 preassembled kit unless i can be persuaded otherwise. . My resolution is 1920x1080, and my goal would be to get as close to 120 frames per second in the games that I play and I also expect to stream without much performance loss. I will be overclocking, but not extremely aggressively, and would like to have the potential for SLI in the future.
Thanks for the help guys.
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
IT IS DONE
damn that took a long time, i blame the silver arrow and those tiny tiny tiny little screws
Not too familiar with how to assemble a custom water--cooling kit but will be looking at Swifttech H220 preassembled kit unless i can be persuaded otherwise. . My resolution is 1920x1080, and my goal would be to get as close to 120 frames per second in the games that I play and I also expect to stream without much performance loss. I will be overclocking, but not extremely aggressively, and would like to have the potential for SLI in the future.
You should talk about what you are looking to get from water cooling
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On June 08 2013 04:05 Antoine wrote:+ Show Spoiler +On June 07 2013 08:59 skyR wrote:Show nested quote +On June 07 2013 04:55 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 08:26 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 07:36 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 07:10 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 07:05 Antoine wrote:On June 06 2013 06:34 skyR wrote:On June 06 2013 04:13 Antoine wrote: if I saved $60-70 between going down to a Seasonic M12II-650 BRONZE ATX 650 PSU and ASUS Z87-A or ASRock Z87 Extreme4, where could I even put that for better performance? I would if it would be really helpful but I don't know where else I could go for a meaningful upgrade? Maybe the higher-end SSD I mentioned, but I don't mind going $20 over the estimated 200 there. While the Seasonic M12II is a good unit, its in an awkward position since the newer better gold units are in the same price point so you wouldn't want an M12II. I see that the Capstone-M 650 unit is out of stock so I'm guessing you want a modular unit and that's why you selected a M12II. I assume you also want SLI judging by the original choice of 750w so I'd select the Corsair HX650 for $105 ($80 after mail in rebate): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012Rosewill got their poor reputation in the past when they were using cheap ATNG and Solytech units. They still sell these units (Stallion, Performance, etc), which are still shit btw. Recently, they started using Superflower as their OEM. Capstones, Lightnings, and Tachyons are all superb units from Superflower, on par with Seasonic (the Corsair HX650 is a Seasonic). You hardly use a DVD burner so its nothing to worry about. The least expensive one is probably from Microcenter. The two notable differences between the 840 Pro and 840 is that the 840 Pro has significantly better write speeds and has two extra years of warranty over the 840. So if you are going to be writing to the SSD a lot then get the 840 Pro without a doubt. Otherwise, you should probably get the 840 because the performance difference between the two in loading WoW or Windows bootup is milliseconds. Why the Coolermaster TPC 812? From what I remember, it performs worse than equivalently priced heatsinks like the Thermalright True Spirit or Macho. And Coolermaster's mounting system is god awful. Remember that heatsinks and cases can last through a lifetime of builds so don't settle for shit from Coolermaster when you're spending $50+, $20 more gets you something from Noctua, Phantek, Thermalright, or even Corsair. Noctua provides a six year warranty and mounting kits free of charge for life. Their support is pretty top notch as well if you ever need help with a heatsink? o.O Phantek is relatively new but their heatsinks perform well and looks nice, backed with a five year warranty. Thanks for the advice on the first 3 - will follow that and pick up the 840 pro as well as the PSU you linked. I was choosing between a couple different heatsinks. I have read some reviews for my case and it's not the greatest as far as temps go, plus it's a mid tower so it can't fit huge ones. I thought the TPC 812 would be better performance than the NH-U12s which is similarly priced but likely priced for its tiny size? I was also looking at the ThermalTake Frio but it's a few mm taller than the TPC 812. I couldn't find any hard numbers for the max height of a heatsink in this case and wasn't sure where to go. I'll do some more research into heatsinks though, thanks again. Most mid-towers including the C70 have clearance for large heatsinks such as the Noctua NH-D14 Ah, that's a relief. One name that keeps popping up in these reviews is the Xigmatek Aegir. Seems to be great in terms of cooling and noise, at a similar price level to the Frio, 812, etc. Is there a reason you didn't mention it among those other brands? Xigmatek isn't widely available in Canada and they don't have products that particularly stand out. And as Ropid mentioned, the use of direct touch is not as good as a base. The Hyper 212 got Coolermaster famous but other than that, I don't think they have anything good. Noctua is well known for their free lifetime mounting kits and were one of the first companies to debut these high-end heatsinks. Phantek is relatively new but their dual radiator heatsink has been shown that it performs better than the NH-D14 and is available in various colours. Phantek and Noctua also have similar easy mounting procedures and their provided TIM is excellent as well. The same can be said for Thermalright but their availability in North America isn't great. You might as well treat yourself to the best for $20 more since you're already getting an i7 and planning on doing SLI. The cost is justifiable if you consider their level of support, the included two fans, and quality of TIM compared to Thermaltake, Coolermaster, and the other non niche companies. I'm back after another day's research. Definitely going with the NH-D14 now, edging out Phanteks based on customer support reputation and extra year of warranty. I'm still waffling on the power supply. That one you linked, the HX650, has lots of reports of sounds like bird chirps when the fan changes speeds. This is the kind of thing that will almost certainly annoy me. I'm not sure where else to look for a 650w gold-rated modular PSU though. actually I found http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151118&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10440897&PID=5961731&SID=0 but it's not as cheap as I was hoping to get. The Corsair HX650 is based on the Seasonic G so chances are that some Seasonic G units will also exhibit chirping. I just noticed that the HX650 only has two PCIe connectors which is unfortunate. I wouldn't suggest that anymoore since you probably don't want to be dealing with molex adapters when you're spending this much. Unfortunately there aren't many choices. Most platforms aren't as good as Seasonics or Superflowers. And besides Capstones, Superflower based units are few and far between in North America, also expensive. The Corsair HX750 which is a CWT unit is also on sale right now on Newegg but iirc, coil whine is a common complaint. The third revision of Seasonic X has the switch to toggle between hybrid and normal fan operations so that will get rid of the chirping sound I guess but reports of coil whine on the X series is also quite common. I think I've finally found the PSU for me: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182083 . It uses ATNG as an OEM which was mentioned as poor quality, but the reviews I've read of it have been excellent. Its price after rebate is $89.99, which is right around what I was looking for out of a 650W. While initially I was hoping for a modular PSU, and this isn't, I think the fact that it's platinum-rated instead of gold like others at this price point should make up for that. Any alternate opinions before I pull the trigger?
I didn't mention that ATNG was bad as a whole, just that the units Rosewill used in the past were bad. The Fortress is a good line of power supplies and that is a good sale for a non-modular 650w platinum unit.
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On June 08 2013 04:25 Infernal_dream wrote: Thinking of upgrading from CF 6850's to something. Been looking a lot at 7970's. Nothing really wrong with my cards but tired of the microstuttering and driver issues between games. Any advice for GPU's at the moment?
Wont upgrading from crossfire 6870's to crossfire 7970's still have microstuttering? And one 7970 probably won't have much if any advantage over two 6870's. If you wanted better single GPU you'd probably have to have either 780 or Titan.
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On June 08 2013 05:28 Alryk wrote:Show nested quote +On June 08 2013 04:25 Infernal_dream wrote: Thinking of upgrading from CF 6850's to something. Been looking a lot at 7970's. Nothing really wrong with my cards but tired of the microstuttering and driver issues between games. Any advice for GPU's at the moment? Wont upgrading from crossfire 6870's to crossfire 7970's still have microstuttering? And one 7970 probably won't have much if any advantage over two 6870's. If you wanted better single GPU you'd probably have to have either 780 or Titan.
I'd be going from two cards to one, not getting CF of whatever upgrade I'm looking at.
Also, it's 6850's not 70's.
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
I'd say 100% get a 770 if you're at 7970 pricepoint. 780 if you want better. I'm sure the 760/760ti will be powerful offerings when they come very soon
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
Clocked to 4.6, 1.2v manual everything else default, bluescreened on boot, set 4.5, booted, passed a few mins of IBT, dropped voltage to 1.18, passed a few mins of ibt, opened sc2, reset temp monitor, ran through a highish supply 1v1 replay a few times to check fps, x8, x1 speed etc (550fps at start yay) and checked max temp after from sc2. 47c on hottest core.
*cheer*
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On June 08 2013 04:54 Cyro wrote:IT IS DONE damn that took a long time, i blame the silver arrow and those tiny tiny tiny little screws Show nested quote +Not too familiar with how to assemble a custom water--cooling kit but will be looking at Swifttech H220 preassembled kit unless i can be persuaded otherwise. . My resolution is 1920x1080, and my goal would be to get as close to 120 frames per second in the games that I play and I also expect to stream without much performance loss. I will be overclocking, but not extremely aggressively, and would like to have the potential for SLI in the future. You should talk about what you are looking to get from water cooling
Mainly to reduce the noise and heat in my office.
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On June 08 2013 06:12 Cyro wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Clocked to 4.6, 1.2v manual everything else default, bluescreened on boot, set 4.5, booted, passed a few mins of IBT, dropped voltage to 1.18, passed a few mins of ibt, opened sc2, reset temp monitor, ran through a highish supply 1v1 replay a few times to check fps, x8, x1 speed etc (550fps at start yay) and checked max temp after from sc2. 47c on hottest core. *cheer*  + Show Spoiler +Very cool. Keep us updated. I'd like to know where you end up with a stable overclock and sane voltages. How's the Silver Arrow SB-E?
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
On June 08 2013 06:24 TooL wrote:Show nested quote +On June 08 2013 04:54 Cyro wrote:IT IS DONE damn that took a long time, i blame the silver arrow and those tiny tiny tiny little screws Not too familiar with how to assemble a custom water--cooling kit but will be looking at Swifttech H220 preassembled kit unless i can be persuaded otherwise. . My resolution is 1920x1080, and my goal would be to get as close to 120 frames per second in the games that I play and I also expect to stream without much performance loss. I will be overclocking, but not extremely aggressively, and would like to have the potential for SLI in the future. You should talk about what you are looking to get from water cooling Mainly to reduce the noise and heat in my office.
You can get quiet air cooling; and cooling is just your method of transfering heat from the CPU to the room. Liquid cooling will use a liquid block on the CPU, to transfer heat from the CPU to the fluids it uses; which is pumped through pipes into a radiator (convector) where fans blow air through fins in order to conduct the heat from the liquid into the room air*
*tl;dr water cooling wont make your room heat up less
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
On June 08 2013 06:30 Wabbit wrote:Show nested quote +On June 08 2013 06:12 Cyro wrote:+ Show Spoiler +Clocked to 4.6, 1.2v manual everything else default, bluescreened on boot, set 4.5, booted, passed a few mins of IBT, dropped voltage to 1.18, passed a few mins of ibt, opened sc2, reset temp monitor, ran through a highish supply 1v1 replay a few times to check fps, x8, x1 speed etc (550fps at start yay) and checked max temp after from sc2. 47c on hottest core. *cheer*  + Show Spoiler +Very cool. Keep us updated. I'd like to know where you end up with a stable overclock and sane voltages. How's the Silver Arrow SB-E?
+ Show Spoiler +It's a bitch :D I have the SE, special edition (by accident but hey, im not too mad, the fans are capped at 1200rpm instead of >2k but the temp difference seems to be only a few degrees, and it's a more sexy color) Installing it onto the board was a pain, and particularly, the board design was weird and i had trouble plugging fans in, and getting one of the screws in. I don't think the z87x-ud3h was designed with this cooler in mind, the silver arrow just had 1150 support tagged on, because the mounting brackets were the same. If i didn't have a slightly magnetized screwdriver, i literally wouldn't have been able to install the cooler, if i didn't have somebody with small hands around i wouldn't have been able to use the cpu fan pins either (would have had to default to system 2 one)
I'm playing with OC a bit but i need to read a guide. I've read bits and pieces everywhere, but i dont want to just dive in and start adjusting random settings; I need to learn haswell a bit better first.
CPU seems above average but not insane, which i'm happy about. No delid yet becuase i wanted to use it for a while first, and because i am freaked out by the CPU being like 3.5 centimeters across. I imagined them as being 4x bigger after looking at so many pictures
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On June 08 2013 06:32 Cyro wrote:Show nested quote +On June 08 2013 06:24 TooL wrote:On June 08 2013 04:54 Cyro wrote:IT IS DONE damn that took a long time, i blame the silver arrow and those tiny tiny tiny little screws Not too familiar with how to assemble a custom water--cooling kit but will be looking at Swifttech H220 preassembled kit unless i can be persuaded otherwise. . My resolution is 1920x1080, and my goal would be to get as close to 120 frames per second in the games that I play and I also expect to stream without much performance loss. I will be overclocking, but not extremely aggressively, and would like to have the potential for SLI in the future. You should talk about what you are looking to get from water cooling Mainly to reduce the noise and heat in my office. You can get quiet air cooling; and cooling is just your method of transfering heat from the CPU to the room. Liquid cooling will use a liquid block on the CPU, to transfer heat from the CPU to the fluids it uses; which is pumped through pipes into a radiator (convector) where fans blow air through fins in order to conduct the heat from the liquid into the room air* *tl;dr water cooling wont make your room heat up less
I realize the ambient temperature of the room would be same after a certain amount of time, however, water will not raise the temperature of the air as quickly as a normal heat-sink would. A radiator also opens up the option of placing it outside of the case and managing the heat in different ways.
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United Kingdom20275 Posts
My CPU Base clock is stuck at 99.77mhz. It's set to 100 in bios; anyone heard of this before?
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