|
When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. |
Hey guys,
Regarding my PC build, I'm having major issues with stability. It seems that the GPU - an HD 7870 - is in the shitter, and I'm not the only person who has this problem. During gaming sessions, it will frequently (usually within 20 minutes or so) black screen, forcing a reboot. This seems to be a common problem with the 78xx lines.
I'm just about done troubleshooting, so I'll likely send it back to the retailer. If someone wants more detailed info about this, I'll make a separate thread for it so as not to bog down the Build thread. I'm just letting you guys know in case you want to include this bit of info in the OP where these cards are listed as recommended.
|
Hi again, i changed my build taking advices here.
so can anyone review my new build plz? im almost ready to buy it.
CPU: CPU Core i7-3770K 3.5 GHz (1155)
MB: MSI Intel Z77A-GD65 A/L/V (1155)
RAM: G.Skill DDR3 16GB (4x 4GB) 1600Mhz PC3-12800 RipjawsZ
HDD: Seagate 1TB Sata3 7200 rpm 64MB
SDD: Crucial® 256GB Sata3 2,5" M4 c/Kit ( CT256M4SSD2BAA )
GFX: Asus NVIDIA GeForce GTX680 2048MB GDDR5 DirectCU II
PSU: Sentey 1000w / 15cm 80Plus Gold Golden Steel Power ( Thiking about buying another GTX680 sooner or later )
COOLER: Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance
CASE: Thermaltake Gabinete ATX Armor Revo Snow Edition s/F
So.. keeping in mind this pc is for Gaming/Editing/Streaming..
im open to opinions etc, about the big psu im thiking in buying another GTX sooner or later.
The MB, will it be ok to oc my i7 ?
i apreciate any advice !
Bye !
|
Looks like the exact same post from 29 hours ago, except an emoticon is missing, likely due to copy and paste not transferring the image?
Obviously that means the same parts are listed, so you get the same responses...? If you can't bother with any effort, why should we?
|
@Mathwel: Look at a 2x RAM kit instead of a 4x kit. It'll be slightly cheaper, I bet, and stuff will be less cramped.
|
Hi tech dudes!
So i am kinda newbie on this subject. since i got my computer from some years ago(second hand) i have more frequently got blue screens of death. This moslty occurs when the computer is on for a long time and i have played games/playing games. And for a while there my computer just got black after trying to run diablo 3 beta and then later grow into that the computer just died when i started it, i fixed this problem with a new gpu psu and get some new stuff between the processor and moderboard(The goo stuff was black burnet).
I am genuinely tiered of blue screens. So here i am combining a wish to upgrade my computer with metabolic speed and get rid of the blue screens.
this is what i got:
CPU: Intel core 2 quad (Q6600 @ 2.40ghz (4 CPUs).
MB: gigabyte s-series GA-P35-DS3L
RAM: Corsair twin2x 6400 ddr2, 4096 mb
HDD: western digital cavier gp 750 SATA2, 16mb 7200rpm
GPU: GTX 560ti 448 cores 1280mb.
PSU: corsair tx650 v2 650w.
Case: Antec sonata III miditower.
OS: Windows vista 64
Money budget: 10000kr = ~1500 USD $
Consideration 1: I bought the GPU and PSU for a year ago so i am not so hot on changing that stuff.
Consideration 2: I want efficent dollers spent. And if i can spend less money then thats good.
Consideration 3: its kinda good if i easily can get my hands on what you sugest. Perhaps www.cdon.se is a good site?
what the comp will be used for:
-SC2/total war.
-Artrage. (drawing stuff)
-codeing/worke.
-And i some times play games like crysis/skyrim.
So go ahead tech dudes build me something good.
|
On March 03 2013 00:06 OneBk wrote:Hi tech dudes! So i am kinda newbie on this subject. since i got my computer from some years ago(second hand) i have more frequently got blue screens of death. This moslty occurs when the computer is on for a long time and i have played games/playing games. And for a while there my computer just got black after trying to run diablo 3 beta and then later grow into that the computer just died when i started it, i fixed this problem with a new gpu psu and get some new stuff between the processor and moderboard(The goo stuff was black burnet). I am genuinely tiered of blue screens. So here i am combining a wish to upgrade my computer with metabolic speed and get rid of the blue screens. this is what i got: CPU: Intel core 2 quad (Q6600 @ 2.40ghz (4 CPUs). MB: gigabyte s-series GA-P35-DS3L RAM: Corsair twin2x 6400 ddr2, 4096 mb HDD: western digital cavier gp 750 SATA2, 16mb 7200rpm GPU: GTX 560ti 448 cores 1280mb. PSU: corsair tx650 v2 650w. Case: Antec sonata III miditower. OS: Windows vista 64 Money budget: 10000kr = ~1500 USD $ Consideration 1: I bought the GPU and PSU for a year ago so i am not so hot on changing that stuff. Consideration 2: I want efficent dollers spent. And if i can spend less money then thats good. Consideration 3: its kinda good if i easily can get my hands on what you sugest. Perhaps www.cdon.se is a good site? what the comp will be used for: -SC2/total war. -Artrage. (drawing stuff) -codeing/worke. -And i some times play games like crysis/skyrim. So go ahead tech dudes build me something good.
Keep:
PSU
GPU
HDD
and case if you want
The only site I've seen used for Sweden is Komplett.se in this thread.
You want:
i5-3570k
Z77 motherboard (pro4, extreme4, G45, D3H)
8GB DDR3-1600 1.5v (2x4GB)
128GB SSD (agility4, 840, 840 pro, M5S)
CPU Cooler
Should cost around 4000KR
|
On March 03 2013 00:41 iTzSnypah wrote:Show nested quote +On March 03 2013 00:06 OneBk wrote:Hi tech dudes! So i am kinda newbie on this subject. since i got my computer from some years ago(second hand) i have more frequently got blue screens of death. This moslty occurs when the computer is on for a long time and i have played games/playing games. And for a while there my computer just got black after trying to run diablo 3 beta and then later grow into that the computer just died when i started it, i fixed this problem with a new gpu psu and get some new stuff between the processor and moderboard(The goo stuff was black burnet). I am genuinely tiered of blue screens. So here i am combining a wish to upgrade my computer with metabolic speed and get rid of the blue screens. this is what i got: CPU: Intel core 2 quad (Q6600 @ 2.40ghz (4 CPUs). MB: gigabyte s-series GA-P35-DS3L RAM: Corsair twin2x 6400 ddr2, 4096 mb HDD: western digital cavier gp 750 SATA2, 16mb 7200rpm GPU: GTX 560ti 448 cores 1280mb. PSU: corsair tx650 v2 650w. Case: Antec sonata III miditower. OS: Windows vista 64 Money budget: 10000kr = ~1500 USD $ Consideration 1: I bought the GPU and PSU for a year ago so i am not so hot on changing that stuff. Consideration 2: I want efficent dollers spent. And if i can spend less money then thats good. Consideration 3: its kinda good if i easily can get my hands on what you sugest. Perhaps www.cdon.se is a good site? what the comp will be used for: -SC2/total war. -Artrage. (drawing stuff) -codeing/worke. -And i some times play games like crysis/skyrim. So go ahead tech dudes build me something good. Keep: PSU GPU HDD and case if you want The only site I've seen used for Sweden is Komplett.se in this thread. You want: i5-3570k Z77 motherboard (pro4, extreme4, G45, D3H) 8GB DDR3-1600 1.5v (2x4GB) 128GB SSD (agility4, 840, 840 pro, M5S) CPU Cooler Should cost around 4000KR
thanks for the response^^. <3
This might come of the wrong way to question the supposed master.
But why would i go for the i5 instead of a i7?
Is i7 overkill for starcraft/total war becouse i thought those games was realy heavy on the cpu?
The rams should they be of some speciel brand?
And can you eliberate on the cpu cooler?
|
For your current case, buy an Antec TrueQuiet 120mm fan for the front. That'll make it work fine.
CPU, i5-3570k.
Mainboard, it seems the ASRock below (and including) extreme4 all get very high temperature on the VRM area under full load, and most cpu coolers don't blow air on that area at all. Asus stuff seems a bit too pricy, Gigabyte is all good (I think Z77X-D3H sounds good), MSI idk.
SSD, you can predict how much you need if you look at what's going on with your PC the moment. You should try to have something like 20 % free. The SSDs generally need that to keep their full performance over time, but it could be different depending on the model. Over 128 GB is a luxury, I guess.
CPU cooler, Hyper 212 evo is good in tests, I like my thermalright True Spirit 120, and both can cool 4.5 ghz. I don't know how much better the gigantic coolers get (something like a Macho 140). Don't buy something random as some are bad in comparison. There's simple to use completely maintenance free closed watercoolers nowadays, not much pricier than the big air coolers, so that could be fun. The radiator would go where your current rear case fan is, two short pipes lead to your CPU, everything seems easier to handle than the large air coolers.
You can overclock worry free to 4.4 GHz, I think. That would be the best use of your budget. If you add it up at an online shop, you'll see all mentioned parts are only a fraction of the budget (below 500 EUR?).
|
On March 03 2013 01:33 OneBk wrote:
But why would i go for the i5 instead of a i7?
Is i7 overkill for starcraft/total war becouse i thought those games was realy heavy on the cpu?
The rams should they be of some speciel brand?
I think it simply doesn't do much or anything at all for what you mentioned you do, except compiling code. But it's adding 100 EUR. As a comparison, adding to the SSD, going from 128 to 256 gb, that'll probably mean you won't ever have to micromanage anything about where to install what, simply throw all torrented movies on the HDD or something. That's perhaps a luxury, but you'd get more out of your 100 EUR that way, compared to i7.
RAM, buy something cheap that says it runs with 1.5V. G.Skill has lifetime warranty, I think, and is still cheap. Perhaps that shows that RAM will work forever if it's okay, and you'll see that immediately after buying.
|
United Kingdom20285 Posts
i7 is not "overkill", it just only adds things that literally do not benefit you at all in almost every game (performing equal to i5)
CPU cooler just means something like the Hyper 212 evo to keep temperatures lower than stock cooler, noise probably lower too, and give some overclocking headroom if you want to - the CPU can go from 3.4ghz to 4.2 pretty much effortlessly
Damnit double ninjad
|
On March 03 2013 01:42 Ropid wrote:
For your current case, buy an Antec TrueQuiet 120mm fan for the front. That'll make it work fine.
CPU, i5-3570k.
Mainboard, it seems the ASRock below (and including) extreme4 all get very high temperature on the VRM area under full load, and most cpu coolers don't blow air on that area at all. Asus stuff seems a bit too pricy, Gigabyte is all good (I think Z77X-D3H sounds good), MSI idk.
SSD, you can predict how much you need if you look at what's going on with your PC the moment. You should try to have something like 20 % free. The SSDs generally need that to keep their full performance over time, but it could be different depending on the model. Over 128 GB is a luxury, I guess.
CPU cooler, Hyper 212 evo is good in tests, I like my thermalright True Spirit 120, and both can cool 4.5 ghz. I don't know how much better the gigantic coolers get (something like a Macho 140). Don't buy something random as some are bad in comparison. There's simple to use completely maintenance free closed watercoolers nowadays, not much pricier than the big air coolers, so that could be fun. The radiator would go where your current rear case fan is, two short pipes lead to your CPU, everything seems easier to handle than the large air coolers.
You can overclock worry free to 4.4 GHz, I think. That would be the best use of your budget. If you add it up at an online shop, you'll see all mentioned parts are only a fraction of the budget (below 500 EUR?).
Asus products have come down in price here a lot in the states; not sure how that compares to EU. Back when the LX and LK Z77 boards were selling for $150 and $165 while the Gigabyte, MSI and Biostar equivalents were $120-130, they were a pretty poor buy, but the market has corrected that a bit. The motherboard field is close enough that there's usually a sale on at least one equivalent board, and when you buy, you should buy that one.
If you'll be playing Rome, the 560 might be okay, but that remains to be seen. If you look at this Shogun 2 benchmark, the 560 got 70fps at 1920x1200 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/6159/the-geforce-gtx-660-ti-review/10), but Creative completely overhauled their graphics engine... who knows how it will be on new hardware. You will probably be able to run it smoothly on medium settings, but I wouldn't count on anywhere near 60fps at 1920x1080.
Definitely fit in an SSD, though; if you'll be installing more than 3-4 games, go with at 250gb version and partition it so that 195-200gb are your root system drive.
Which programs do you use for your art and your coding? Is this professional-level stuff or just side hobbies? If you're coding >4 threaded computations, get an i7. Otherwise, an i5 will be just as good.
|
Everything important was covered, but
On March 03 2013 01:42 Ropid wrote:
For your current case, buy an Antec TrueQuiet 120mm fan for the front. That'll make it work fine.
Sonata III doesn't have a front fan mount AFAIK.
Even if it did, the front intake and drive cage are restrictive enough that you wouldn't want a low-pressure fan like a TrueQuiet. If you still want something relatively unobtrusive acoustically, some kind of model typically used on heatsinks / radiators like a Scythe Gentle Typhoon, Be Quiet Silent Wings 2, Corsair SP, etc. should be better.
Current setup could be fine, but you might just want to update the case to something more modern.
Sonata IV is possibly less restrictive in the way AnandTech tested it than the Sonata III, and it just ended up being hotter and louder than other options when loaded with performance hardware like even (non-overclocked) i7-875k and GTX 580. GTX 560 Ti 448 uses the same chip as GTX 580, so it's not like a totally different range of power consumption and heat output.
Just an idea, seeing as you're getting nowhere close to 10000kr, not that I recommend spending money just to do so.
|
On March 03 2013 02:01 upperbound wrote:Show nested quote +On March 03 2013 01:42 Ropid wrote:
For your current case, buy an Antec TrueQuiet 120mm fan for the front. That'll make it work fine.
CPU, i5-3570k.
Mainboard, it seems the ASRock below (and including) extreme4 all get very high temperature on the VRM area under full load, and most cpu coolers don't blow air on that area at all. Asus stuff seems a bit too pricy, Gigabyte is all good (I think Z77X-D3H sounds good), MSI idk.
SSD, you can predict how much you need if you look at what's going on with your PC the moment. You should try to have something like 20 % free. The SSDs generally need that to keep their full performance over time, but it could be different depending on the model. Over 128 GB is a luxury, I guess.
CPU cooler, Hyper 212 evo is good in tests, I like my thermalright True Spirit 120, and both can cool 4.5 ghz. I don't know how much better the gigantic coolers get (something like a Macho 140). Don't buy something random as some are bad in comparison. There's simple to use completely maintenance free closed watercoolers nowadays, not much pricier than the big air coolers, so that could be fun. The radiator would go where your current rear case fan is, two short pipes lead to your CPU, everything seems easier to handle than the large air coolers.
You can overclock worry free to 4.4 GHz, I think. That would be the best use of your budget. If you add it up at an online shop, you'll see all mentioned parts are only a fraction of the budget (below 500 EUR?). Asus products have come down in price here a lot in the states; not sure how that compares to EU. Back when the LX and LK Z77 boards were selling for $150 and $165 while the Gigabyte, MSI and Biostar equivalents were $120-130, they were a pretty poor buy, but the market has corrected that a bit. The motherboard field is close enough that there's usually a sale on at least one equivalent board, and when you buy, you should buy that one. If you'll be playing Rome, the 560 might be okay, but that remains to be seen. If you look at this Shogun 2 benchmark, the 560 got 70fps at 1920x1200 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/6159/the-geforce-gtx-660-ti-review/10), but Creative completely overhauled their graphics engine... who knows how it will be on new hardware. You will probably be able to run it smoothly on medium settings, but I wouldn't count on anywhere near 60fps at 1920x1080. Definitely fit in an SSD, though; if you'll be installing more than 3-4 games, go with at 250gb version and partition it so that 195-200gb are your root system drive. Which programs do you use for your art and your coding? Is this professional-level stuff or just side hobbies? If you're coding >4 threaded computations, get an i7. Otherwise, an i5 will be just as good.
Hmm well if Rome would be to heavy i could just get a stronger card right?
I am useing mainly artrage 3 for my paintings. No its just a thing i do to get to my "happy place".
WaterCoolers sounds cool, they have to be more queiter right?
And thanks. <3
|
On March 03 2013 08:58 OneBk wrote:Show nested quote +On March 03 2013 02:01 upperbound wrote:On March 03 2013 01:42 Ropid wrote:
For your current case, buy an Antec TrueQuiet 120mm fan for the front. That'll make it work fine.
CPU, i5-3570k.
Mainboard, it seems the ASRock below (and including) extreme4 all get very high temperature on the VRM area under full load, and most cpu coolers don't blow air on that area at all. Asus stuff seems a bit too pricy, Gigabyte is all good (I think Z77X-D3H sounds good), MSI idk.
SSD, you can predict how much you need if you look at what's going on with your PC the moment. You should try to have something like 20 % free. The SSDs generally need that to keep their full performance over time, but it could be different depending on the model. Over 128 GB is a luxury, I guess.
CPU cooler, Hyper 212 evo is good in tests, I like my thermalright True Spirit 120, and both can cool 4.5 ghz. I don't know how much better the gigantic coolers get (something like a Macho 140). Don't buy something random as some are bad in comparison. There's simple to use completely maintenance free closed watercoolers nowadays, not much pricier than the big air coolers, so that could be fun. The radiator would go where your current rear case fan is, two short pipes lead to your CPU, everything seems easier to handle than the large air coolers.
You can overclock worry free to 4.4 GHz, I think. That would be the best use of your budget. If you add it up at an online shop, you'll see all mentioned parts are only a fraction of the budget (below 500 EUR?). Asus products have come down in price here a lot in the states; not sure how that compares to EU. Back when the LX and LK Z77 boards were selling for $150 and $165 while the Gigabyte, MSI and Biostar equivalents were $120-130, they were a pretty poor buy, but the market has corrected that a bit. The motherboard field is close enough that there's usually a sale on at least one equivalent board, and when you buy, you should buy that one. If you'll be playing Rome, the 560 might be okay, but that remains to be seen. If you look at this Shogun 2 benchmark, the 560 got 70fps at 1920x1200 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/6159/the-geforce-gtx-660-ti-review/10), but Creative completely overhauled their graphics engine... who knows how it will be on new hardware. You will probably be able to run it smoothly on medium settings, but I wouldn't count on anywhere near 60fps at 1920x1080. Definitely fit in an SSD, though; if you'll be installing more than 3-4 games, go with at 250gb version and partition it so that 195-200gb are your root system drive. Which programs do you use for your art and your coding? Is this professional-level stuff or just side hobbies? If you're coding >4 threaded computations, get an i7. Otherwise, an i5 will be just as good. Hmm well if Rome would be to heavy i could just get a stronger card right? I am useing mainly artrage 3 for my paintings. No its just a thing i do to get to my "happy place". WaterCoolers sounds cool, they have to be more queiter right? And thanks. <3
Water coolers are also very expensive to get a decent one. You can just get an aftermarket cooler and replace the fan if you find it too loud.
|
United Kingdom20285 Posts
WaterCoolers sounds cool, they have to be more queiter right?
Water coolers use water to cool, which is pumped around a loop with a radiator.. That has air fans attached to it to cool the water that is now hotter than it was because of all the absorbed heat from the CPU/components.
Your logic is sweet but not strictly correct
|
Hey guys. I'm building a rig yall helped me pick and am running into issues.
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit)
Basically, I've done a external build. CUP, heatsink, video card, memory. Plugged in a power supply and monitor. Test boot....and error 53 (no usable memory detected). Nothing on monitor either. Should there be a speaker that came with the mother board? I'd love to hear that desired beep.
(yep, pretty nooby here)
Thanks!
|
On March 03 2013 11:35 Coopfreak wrote:
Hey guys. I'm building a rig yall helped me pick and am running into issues.
CPU: Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme6 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition 1GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Full (64-bit)
Basically, I've done a external build. CUP, heatsink, video card, memory. Plugged in a power supply and monitor. Test boot....and error 53 (no usable memory detected). Nothing on monitor either. Should there be a speaker that came with the mother board? I'd love to hear that desired beep.
(yep, pretty nooby here)
Thanks!
Is you RAM Quad-Channel? If not there's your problem.
|
Dual-Channel, but the manuel says If only two memory modules are installed then Dual-channel memory technology is activated.
|
Water cooling generally is quieter than air (or should be, at least).
The jist of it is this:
You pump water in a loop that goes around each of your components (you can have separate loops for your CPU and GPU, but it doesn't matter much and most people just use one loop for simplicity.
The water absorbs heat as it passed through the water block on each component (similar to how a heatsink grabs heat from the CPU/GPU). Within a loop the difference in temperature between any two points is roughly no more than +/- .1 C.
In order to cool the water (which has absorbed your system heat), you run it through radiators and then blow fans through the radiator fins. This expels the heat from the water loop. Conversely, if you failed to expel the heat from the loop the water would heat up and eventually melt through the plastic tubing due to extreme heat (I believe your system would be hot enough to trigger turning off your system first, but I don't remember).
Anyway, the key point here is the radiators and the air blowing through them. The most important parts of radiators are their thickness and fin density (fins per inch). Lower FPI means you need less pressure to move air through them, but also that they transfer less heat. Conversely, denser / thicker radiators need more pressure, but move more heat. The drawback is that you need stronger (often louder) fans. The way around this is to use push/pull setups, which involves a fan on either side of the radiator. This lets you use quieter fans without compromising the ability to move air.
The compounding issue is that this all ends up taking a lot of space inside a case. You can externally mount radiators, but many people don't like that. You can also get special extra-fat cases that can have radiators side-by-side. Conversely, you can sacrifice some of your drive bays to fit extra radiators. Larger cases can support 2-3 radiators of large size (2-4 fans big) if you take this approach.
Radiators are listed in two forms, a single number (360), or two numbers (120.3). This basically means 120mm x3, which is a size that fits three 120mm fans side by size. My Xigmatek Elysium can fit a 360 or 420 in the top, 120/140 on the rear, and a 120/140 on the bottom. You can also fit a 240/280 (maybe 360/420 too iirc) on the bottom if you remove the bottom drive bay, but that might require some case modification for drill holes. In some of these larger cases you end up lacking room in one spot so you might end up with one less fan on one end to compensate (e.g. only using 5 fans instead of 6 on a 360).
If you want maximum heat removal you can go with high RPM (and high noise) fans, but this is rather impractical. Most people prefer water for the ability to simultaneously have high cooling while having a near-silent case, so you use low RPM / low noise fans.
Finally, bear in mind that your water pump will have some noise, though most of the "main" options are very quiet.
This is a long way of saying that water cooling should be quieter than air (or silent), while still offering superior cooling. However, this will vary on your setup. Nonetheless, you can still have very quiet air cooling that will offer you sufficient cooling for your system.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EPT
